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Old 03-10-2020, 09:26 PM   #1
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Payload

I have seen a lot of discussion on this subject and I have a question if my setup is OK? So here it is I have a 2002 Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab short bed 6.6 Turbo Diesel and Allison Trans. I am towing a 32 ft Flagstaff 5er. Total weight of trailer is just under 10,000 lbs when fully loaded. Hitch weight is 1530Lbs. I am using an Andersen Ultimate 5th wheel hitch which only weighs 35 lbs. Truck door sticker says GVWR is 9600lbs. So the stick says nothing about payload. Have no idea what a non loaded truck curb weight is. I guess 6000lbs. then subtract the hitch of 1530 then that leaves 2,000 payload or am I way off or close on the numbers?
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Old 03-10-2020, 09:38 PM   #2
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Go weigh it empty on a Cat scale. Subtract the axle weights from the axle limits on your sticker (I'm assuming the sticker shows axle limits). What's left is your payload.
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Old 03-10-2020, 09:45 PM   #3
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I have seen a lot of discussion on this subject and I have a question if my setup is OK? So here it is I have a 2002 Silverado 2500HD Crew Cab short bed 6.6 Turbo Diesel and Allison Trans. I am towing a 32 ft Flagstaff 5er. Total weight of trailer is just under 10,000 lbs when fully loaded. Hitch weight is 1530Lbs. I am using an Andersen Ultimate 5th wheel hitch which only weighs 35 lbs. Truck door sticker says GVWR is 9600lbs. So the stick says nothing about payload. Have no idea what a non loaded truck curb weight is. I guess 6000lbs. then subtract the hitch of 1530 then that leaves 2,000 payload or am I way off or close on the numbers?
I'd bet your are very close on your numbers. As others suggested weight the empty truck to be sure.
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Old 03-10-2020, 09:47 PM   #4
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I'd bet your are very close on your numbers. As others suggested weight the empty truck to be sure.


Thanks I think we have a truck scale in Placerville I will try tomorrow
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Old 03-10-2020, 10:01 PM   #5
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Old 03-10-2020, 10:17 PM   #6
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Thanks I think we have a truck scale in Placerville I will try tomorrow
You don’t have a yellow tire sticker? It usually gives you a rough payload.

Best to weight your truck and 5ver. Take both, drop RV in lot. Weight truck with how you would travel, DW, full fuel, Andersen hitch, and any other things you might carry. This will give you the dry weight. Subtract this from GVWR and it will give you the amount of payload for your RV

Now hook up RV and go across scale again. It will only cost $4 I think for,the,second weigh.

https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/

Let us know how you come out...
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Old 03-10-2020, 10:39 PM   #7
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You don’t have a yellow tire sticker? It usually gives you a rough payload.



Best to weight your truck and 5ver. Take both, drop RV in lot. Weight truck with how you would travel, DW, full fuel, Andersen hitch, and any other things you might carry. This will give you the dry weight. Subtract this from GVWR and it will give you the amount of payload for your RV



Now hook up RV and go across scale again. It will only cost $4 I think for,the,second weigh.



https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/



Let us know how you come out...


Thanks for all your help
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Old 03-10-2020, 10:46 PM   #8
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Thanks for all your help


Another question the GVWR is 9200 lbs. Combine axle weights are 10700. So which number do I follow it is 1500 lbs difference
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Old 03-10-2020, 11:01 PM   #9
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Another question the GVWR is 9200 lbs. Combine axle weights are 10700. So which number do I follow it is 1500 lbs difference
Use GVWR. What ever you have on the axles must be at or below GVWR. Combined axle weight always add up to more than GVWR. Just means you can have max rear axle weight but then the front axle weight added must stay at or below GVWR.
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Old 03-10-2020, 11:16 PM   #10
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Use GVWR. What ever you have on the axles must be at or below GVWR. Combined axle weight always add up to more than GVWR. Just means you can have max rear axle weight but then the front axle weight added must stay at or below GVWR.


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Old 03-10-2020, 11:36 PM   #11
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Use GVWR. What ever you have on the axles must be at or below GVWR. Combined axle weight always add up to more than GVWR. Just means you can have max rear axle weight but then the front axle weight added must stay at or below GVWR.
X3. I should have been clearer.

(And they didn't use yellow tire stickers 18 yrs ago.)
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:13 AM   #12
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X3. I should have been clearer.

(And they didn't use yellow tire stickers 18 yrs ago.)
Yep, no yellow payload capacity stickers in 2002.
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:29 AM   #13
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X3. I should have been clearer.

(And they didn't use yellow tire stickers 18 yrs ago.)
Did not know that, learn something new everyday
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:00 AM   #14
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Math correct. Truck weight not likely.

A fully fueled 2500 diesel four door truck, with you, mom and the hitch plus gear will be well north of #8000. Anderson saved you over #100.

If the rv says hitch of #1530, that is from the factory. I would assume another #500 of gear weight. Mounts up fast.

So I would guess you are several hundred pounds over the weight.

Not an issue on a 2500 normally. So long as it does not squat.

Cat scales are easy to find and use. The last time I used one it was $14.

Go weigh something.
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Old 03-11-2020, 06:05 AM   #15
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You don’t have a yellow tire sticker? It usually gives you a rough payload...
With his truck being a 2002 model it may not have that sticker. My 2004 Chevrolet 2500HD didn’t have one.

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Old 03-11-2020, 08:52 AM   #16
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I would be surprised if the Chevy with the Dmax is under 7K lbs. empty.
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Old 03-11-2020, 09:49 AM   #17
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Wow. A 2500 pulling a fifth wheel that is under 10k. I'm amazed that even devout weight police would have any problems with that.
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:16 AM   #18
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Wow. A 2500 pulling a fifth wheel that is under 10k. I'm amazed that even devout weight police would have any problems with that.
^^x2
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:26 AM   #19
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Scoff about payload if you will but the facts are that a 3/4 ton has different springs and usually a different rear axle. You can make up for the springs with "aids" but you can't make up for the rating of the rear axle. I'd guess that the payload on that truck is no more than 2,000. The rear axle will be over its rated capacity. Probably more of a vehicle longevity risk than a safety risk.

A diesel 3/4 ton makes no sense to me. Yet it is perhaps the most common heavy duty truck configuration.
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Old 03-11-2020, 11:55 AM   #20
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[...] A diesel 3/4 ton makes no sense to me. Yet it is perhaps the most common heavy duty truck configuration.
1. In some localities, registration can be based on GVWR or truck class. So, owning a 1 ton can be more expensive in those areas.

2. In some cases, insuring a 1 ton can be more expensive.

3. For company trucks, a 1 ton is a Class 3 truck and can require a CDL. Thus, many contractors and such will avoid them ... you can’t even send your summer helper to Home Depot for a box of nails in your 1 ton SRW, but you could in a 3/4 ton. So, some people buy their work truck that they then also use for personal reasons ... sort of forced into 3/4 ton or a CDL.

With some care, you can get a 3/4 ton built incredibly similar to a 1 ton. For 2017-2019, the F-250 PSD could be had with an optional HD Tow, which stepped up the rear axle and some other bits and pieces. It came within a single leaf of an F-350 ... and it was about $40 cheaper (no, I didn’t miss a zero). I assume other brands are similar. Standard, they often have different axles and such, but can be optioned to match 1 ton components.

So, there are some bona fide good reasons to go 3/4 ton diesel over 1 ton. You can also get one built to be incredibly close to a 1 ton. But, it’s not necessarily automatically so.

OP claims a 6,000 lb truck. I think that is only true of an absolute base, no options model. I’d guess closer to 7,000 lbs rolling down the road. Scales will help here. Then, it’s just math.
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