Please tell me I do not have a problem!

[dalford]

Originally Posted by Jobecka1

Thanks to everyone for your respective inputs to my original posting on the new 80 psi Maxxis tires. To clarify to "emm-dee", my trailer is a 2015 Flagstaff 831 RESS Super Classic Lite Weight. Dry weight is listed at 7513 and tongue weight is about 735. Does this help with your thoughts, I hope? I need all the advice I can get here...very concerned.

50psi in the new Maxxis tires will support 4300 lbs per axle or 8600lbs for both axles. I don't know how much you have added for cargo but from dry weight your axles were supporting about 6800lbs (7513-735). So if you have not added over ~1800lbs in cargo you should be good to go..

[pdqparalegal1]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

No you do not need new rims . it is a grave misconception around here that rims are sold based on max psi . your rim will have a max weight it can carry . not max psi so don't go over the weight rating of the rim . not sure what unit you have or how much it weighs but my guess is if you have 225/75r/15 your rims are rated for 2830.always run max psi in the tire so get your tt weight loaded and pick a tire that has 20% more load capacity . And one more thing install metal valve stems .

Replaced 15" wheels and tires on trailer with 16', new steel wheels and 16" tires. Tires rated at 80 psi, One of the steel wheels split just below bead. Caught it in time to weld it fom inside,split was hairline but did leak air. These were not cheap wheels, made by Diamond wheels who Mfg. Short track wheels. Fairly heavy.
New TT, replaced the 14" wheels and tires with 15" tires and aluminum wheels and screw in stems,

[emm-dee]

Hard to tell for sure but pictures of your unit seem to indicate you have the Lynx series wheels. They will be either 2150 pound (5 bolt) or 2830 (6- bolt) capacity. Other FR units (and mine) in that weight range usually have the 6-bolt wheels. Also, the yellow sticker specifies "D" load tire so you should have the 6- bolt. You're good to go with E tires at 80 psi (although your max axle weight is still 5,000 pounds).

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1

Replaced 15" wheels and tires on trailer with 16', new steel wheels and 16" tires. Tires rated at 80 psi, One of the steel wheels split just below bead. Caught it in time to weld it fom inside,split was hairline but did leak air. These were not cheap wheels, made by Diamond wheels who Mfg. Short track wheels. Fairly heavy.
New TT, replaced the 14" wheels and tires with 15" tires and aluminum wheels and screw in stems,

I would have sent them back . wheel did not split because of psi but bad material , stressed metal , or bad manufacture . maybe just a bad run of wheels . maybe from Mexico .
I always use steel stems any more . back in the late 90 all stems seemed to come from China and failed pretty often .. just has a friend last spring we were caravaning when one os his stems starting leaking glad we caught it before the tire was ruined

[johnruff]

Interested in some more responses to this. My tire dealer recommended me to run 80PSI in my 110 rated Goodyears. I have been running 90 without a problem for about 1500 miles. The rims are 110 rated but the fiver does not need it - came with 80 psi Towmax which I replaced before encountering a problem.

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by Keisling

You can end the speculation on what PSI/load is safe for those tires by checking the load inflation chart that Maxxis publishes.



Trailer Tire Load/Inflation Chart | Maxxis Tires USA

Amen


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[PhoneDude 8289]

Originally Posted by Jobecka1

After reading MANY horror stories on tire failures I decided to take the big step and replace my factory equipped tires (Load C China bombs with LESS than 3000 miles!!) for Maxxis 8008 ST, 10-ply 225/75R/15's. I THOUGHT I was "home free" until I read somewhere that these 80 psi tires might not accommodate my factory rims which are rated at 50 psi!!!!! Am I in trouble? What now: reduce air pressure to 50; replace rims? HELP!

I have a 8289ws with a few mods. GVW for my unit is 9300 lbs. Under it are 2 - 4000 lb axels and it came with the "C" rated Trailmaster china bomb 225/75R/15, had trouble with one. I changed the tires including the spare to the Maxxis 8008 st's E rated and had steel valve stems installed. Had them balanced with the TPMS sensors installed on the stock Lions Head rims. I have been running the Maxxis at 75 psi since installed for almost three years now with ZERO issues. The last time I had it weighed it was at 9100# off the truck. In my opinion the axels on this rv are undersized, should be 5k axels but it is what it is. I am happy and comfortable with my choice of tire.

[checkmate99]

Originally Posted by Teamfour

He bought tires that have a recommended psi of 80. I know and agree that the psi is related to load ratings, but to run a tire designed for 80 psi at 65 psi is asking for trouble. I would bet the sidewalls "squish" enough to cause high temperature issues. So the question is, what over rides what: the suggested psi on the trailer label, or the tire mfr's recommended psi. Not arguing, just trying to learn.
I keep thinking over my logic, and realize I may be wrong. What may be causing me to think this way is this: I had E rated tires (80 psi) on a previous truck. I ran them at 60 psi to soften the ride and quick wiped out the edges of the tires from under inflation.

If this is the case, why do the big three recommend tire inflation pressures under 80 PSI on their trucks? I have LT Michelin tires on my Chevy 2500, which show max tire inflation of 80 PSI on the sidewall. But Chevy recommends 65 PSI front and 70 PSI rear. That's what I run, and have no wear or overheating problems. 80 PSI is the max pressure allowed, not the recommended running pressure. IMHO.

[Stank Bait]

but to run a tire designed for 80 psi at 65 psi is asking for trouble.

It's the load (weight) on the tire that determines the sidewall flex. Sure, you could put 80# in them but then you get into how much stress on the running gear. Which is unknown, at least by us. My thought was to get him a smooth ride and good mileage, contact patch without beating up the spindles, bearings etc. My F250 7.3 has load range E, max 80#. The sticker is 55# front and 70# rear. The original rear tires would wear in the center at 70#, not a 65#.
It depend on a lot of factors, not just the max on the tire. If you feel comfortable that a tire with 80# max is where you want to keep it, drive it that way. Your wear to suspension parts and center of tread may vary. At the max pressure you will probably not ever overload the weight rating of the tire but may beat up the suspension more. If it was a utility trailer and you did not know the weight that might be loaded I would run max pressure, but you know the approximate weight of your travel trailer.

Loads and condition vary and no one rule fits all conditions.

[muddyrode]

Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.
we just had a local tire shop that had a rim come apart on them while trying to air up a new tire.
that was a almost a deadly accident,
one person lost an eye and several face fractures and will be in a very lengthy recovery, another has several broken bones in his arm and shoulder

[Iwannacamp]

Originally Posted by muddyrode

Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.
we just had a local tire shop that had a rim come apart on them while trying to air up a new tire.
that was a almost a deadly accident,
one person lost an eye and several face fractures and will be in a very lengthy recovery, another has several broken bones in his arm and shoulder

I am sorry about the accident. My small amount of research says that most of the RV wheels are load rated not pressure rated. How do we determine the actual pressure rating of the wheel or materials of the wheel? The people who usually care about strength of the wheels seem to run steel and not an alloy wheel.

[northstar1960]

Originally Posted by muddyrode

Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.
we just had a local tire shop that had a rim come apart on them while trying to air up a new tire.
that was a almost a deadly accident,
one person lost an eye and several face fractures and will be in a very lengthy recovery, another has several broken bones in his arm and shoulder

that had nothing to do with running psi //rims are rated for weight
he may have had a accident trying to get the bead to seal and the wheel could have been damaged all ready

Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.:r oflblack:

[KyDan]

The maximum pressure stamped on a tire is just that- the maximum pressure.
It's not the mandatory pressure.
That is determined by several factors including speed and actual load.

Everyone please respect the rules of the forums.
It's NOT your job to convince everyone else to agree with you.
State your position and LET IT GO.
Please!

[325BH]

Originally Posted by checkmate99

If this is the case, why do the big three recommend tire inflation pressures under 80 PSI on their trucks? I have LT Michelin tires on my Chevy 2500, which show max tire inflation of 80 PSI on the sidewall. But Chevy recommends 65 PSI front and 70 PSI rear. That's what I run, and have no wear or overheating problems. 80 PSI is the max pressure allowed, not the recommended running pressure. IMHO.

On my new F250, I have similar tires and PSI recommendations on my sticker. However, when running loaded I run at max PSI.

I don't care what the sticker says, when I carry a load I run at max PSI. I'm not going to risk tire damage due to overloading at a certain weight.

Heck, most of the time I don't bother letting air out when I am empty. Running at 75 PSI with an empty pickup... the horrors!

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by northstar1960

that had nothing to do with running psi //rims are rated for weight
he may have had a accident trying to get the bead to seal and the wheel could have been damaged all ready

Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.:r oflblack:

Your rim will come with the rated weight also with the rated PSI for the rim with the valve stem it has installed if you increase the PSI rating you need to change the valve stem also very impotant, there is another thread that covers what the rim manufacturers carrying weight is and the PSI stamped inside the rim. If your rim for example is stamped at 65 and you wanted to move up to E rated at 80 PSI, if the rim can hold it check there web site you still would need to change the stem out sorry but the following statement is in correct....Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

Your rim will come with the rated weight also with the rated PSI for the rim with the valve stem it has installed if you increase the PSI rating you need to change the valve stem also very impotant, there is another thread that covers what the rim manufacturers carrying weight is and the PSI stamped inside the rim. If your rim for example is stamped at 65 and you wanted to move up to E rated at 80 PSI, if the rim can hold it check there web site you still would need to change the stem out sorry but the following statement is in correct....Do not run more PSI that the rim is rated for.

You are correct, but there is a problem. Just about all FR trailers come equipped with Lions Head wheels. Not all, but most. At least three of the eight LH wheels do not have the max PSI stamped on them, only the max weight. I don't know about the other five because I haven't looked at them.

The wheels on my '14 model truck have neither weight or PSI stamped on them.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by emm-dee

You are correct, but there is a problem. Just about all FR trailers come equipped with Lions Head wheels. Not all, but most. At least three of the eight LH wheels do not have the max PSI stamped on them, only the max weight. I don't know about the other five because I haven't looked at them.

The wheels on my '14 model truck have neither weight or PSI stamped on them.

That could be correct as you stated all it takes is a call to lions head

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by Witch Doctor

That could be correct as you stated all it takes is a call to lions head

I didn't call but got info from them via email. Basically all they will say is the wheels will handle the max pressure of any tire that is rated up to the stamped weight.

Others have gotten similar responses. See: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ng-121663.html

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by emm-dee

I didn't call but got info from them via email. Basically all they will say is the wheels will handle the max pressure of any tire that is rated up to the stamped weight.

Others have gotten similar responses. See: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ng-121663.html

You are correct here is an example of lions head weight rateing and PSI rating for the stem. Change the stem and you can max the rim weight rating, if not go by the PSI for that rim as shipped. All Lions head series rim in this category is stamped with the PSI inside...

[Jobecka1]

I want to again thank everyone who contributed their view(s) on my earlier posting of upgrading to 80 psi Load E tires from the factory supplied 50 psi Load C's and whether or not that posed a potential danger to my LionsHead rims. There were contradictory opinions voiced, some stating no problem and others stating that I would either need to change out the factory rims with new ones which would withstand the increased pressure or would be required to reduce the pressure on the new tires to 50 psi to match the replaced tires. I am relieved at the LionsHead response I received moments ago and paraphrase same here:

"There is NO problem with mounting and running the new tires on your factory supplied 15X6JJ rims and inflating them to 80 psi which is higher than the original 50 psi tires. You will need to change out the rubber valve stems for metal screw in ones to accommodate the increased pressure. Just remember that the rims are designed to support the maximum weight of the respective trailer and that WEIGHT should NOT be exceeded."

I can at last rest easy with my decision.