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Old 03-17-2019, 01:26 PM   #1
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Problem with my TV 7-pin plug?

The 7 pin plug on my TV doesn't seem to be suppling power to my E-Pro 19 FBS. I am getting power to my running, brake and signal lights. I checked my TV's fuze and it looks good. Any recommendations on what to do next?

Backstory: I picked up my RV from Camping World on Friday. It went in for minor warranty work. It appears someone turned on battery power AND my heater. AND left both on. On Friday my RV battery was completely dead. The battery has been charging it in my garage for over 18 hours now but it doesn't indicate that it is actually charged yet.

Should I bug CW for a new battery? it is only ten month old.

John
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:30 PM   #2
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Not sure what to suggest regarding your 8-pin issue other than asking if youíve actually verified if itís supplying power or not by using a DVOM.

Regarding the battery, it has a warranty. CW should replace it under the battery warranty without issue if itís refusing to charge or hold a charge.
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:35 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by NC_RVer View Post
The 7 pin plug on my TV doesn't seem to be suppling power to my E-Pro 19 FBS. I am getting power to my running, brake and signal lights. I checked my TV's fuze and it looks good. Any recommendations on what to do next?

Backstory: I picked up my RV from Camping World on Friday. It went in for minor warranty work. It appears someone turned on battery power AND my heater. AND left both on. On Friday my RV battery was completely dead. The battery has been charging it in my garage for over 18 hours now but it doesn't indicate that it is actually charged yet.

Should I bug CW for a new battery? it is only ten month old.

John
What's your TV . not all 7 pins are wired with 12v supply count the wires heading into it and make sure there are 7 . then test to 12 v acc. pin to see if it live .
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:52 PM   #4
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You need to test the 7 pin plug with a multimeter.
Seriously doubt CW is going to replace the battery for free, after 10 months. How will you prove that they were at fault? Especially if your tow vehicle has not been supplying a charge.
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Old 03-17-2019, 01:54 PM   #5
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You need to test the 7 pin plug with a multimeter.
Seriously doubt CW is going to replace the battery for free, after 10 months. How will you prove that they were at fault?


Battery warranty. If CW didnít sell them the trailer and isnít a reseller of the battery brand then the OP will have to find a local reseller to have it replaced under warranty.
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Old 03-17-2019, 02:16 PM   #6
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Battery warranty. If CW didnít sell them the trailer and isnít a reseller of the battery brand then the OP will have to find a local reseller to have it replaced under warranty.
My bet is that's what CW will tell the OP. CW isn't going to replace it, if they stay true to their business model.
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Old 03-17-2019, 03:45 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
You need to test the 7 pin plug with a multimeter.
Seriously doubt CW is going to replace the battery for free, after 10 months. How will you prove that they were at fault? Especially if your tow vehicle has not been supplying a charge.
If the unit was new and if bought at CW they installed the battery and they sale batteries . so they should cover battery warranty regardless of what caused the battery to go bad . if it's interstate which they do sale i think one yr warranty so if it fails a load test . yada yada . he can get a new one
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Old 03-17-2019, 04:15 PM   #8
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Not sure about the Toyota, but some TV's also have a relay in the 12V aux line to prevent the RV from draining the TV battery when parked for a while. Did you try the Aux pin with the TV running?
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Old 03-17-2019, 05:51 PM   #9
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I should have added to my OP that CW did test the TV end of the seven-pin plug. Their tester indicated that power wasn't going out (to charge the RV battery). All the other functions, outside lights, brakes, blinker were working.

The inside lights were working when I dropped it off. When I entered my RV after the service rep plugged me into shore power, the lights came on and the heater too. That lead me to believe a service technician ran the RV off battery power and had the heater on too. And then left both on draining the battery.

The only repairs I had done were:

1. Replace a USB charger
2. Replace the stove top fan motor.
3. Replace an outlet plug cover.

And they did their 21 point annual inspection.

I imagine it took a technician about 20 minutes to do everything. Yet it took 32 days before I got my RV back. I'm only about 15 minutes away from CW.

John
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Old 03-17-2019, 06:18 PM   #10
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actually only minimal power 12VDC supplied thru the 7 pin connector to the RV... not nearly enough to charge a dis-charged battery in the RV, even after hours of driving...

this topic is covered in a number of other threads about charging off tow vehicle while driving...

the short answer is DON"T count on it!
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Old 03-17-2019, 07:33 PM   #11
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I had a problem with my tundra factory 7 pin plug. Brakes quit working. I checked the pin that supplied power to the brakes and had no power there. All wires were found to be good.
But the wire had corroded and lost contact inside the the sealed part of the outlet. I had already replace the brake controller with no improvement before replacing the 7 pin outlet on the truck.
Check the out really well for internal corrosion.
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Old 03-18-2019, 01:26 PM   #12
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Simple enough test the oulet pin then test the wire just behind the outlet and keep going as needed. Cheaper than throwing parts at it.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:03 PM   #13
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Seeing as this has not been mentioned before, here comes. With many TVs, the 12 volt power to the trailer is activated through the ignition. So, when checking for power, the ignition would have to be on. The purpose is to prevent the TV battery from running down when the trailer is connected and the TV is shut off.
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Old 03-18-2019, 02:59 PM   #14
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Another thing to take into consideration is if you have Tow/Haul mode, most vehicles will increase the amount of power going to the trailer. If you don't use Tow/Haul mode the boost is not activated.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:00 PM   #15
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You are correct thatís why I said keep going as needed.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:07 PM   #16
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Also some trucks will need a relay and/or fuse installed to activate the +12v at the connector
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:15 PM   #17
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Also some trucks will need a relay and/or fuse installed to activate the +12v at the connector
In his original post they said they checked that, but it's possible the fuse is there but the relay is missing some something along those lines.

All we can do is give them pointers and hope they can figure it out.
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:22 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by NC_RVer View Post
The 7 pin plug on my TV doesn't seem to be suppling power to my E-Pro 19 FBS. I am getting power to my running, brake and signal lights. I checked my TV's fuze and it looks good. Any recommendations on what to do next?

Backstory: I picked up my RV from Camping World on Friday. It went in for minor warranty work. It appears someone turned on battery power AND my heater. AND left both on. On Friday my RV battery was completely dead. The battery has been charging it in my garage for over 18 hours now but it doesn't indicate that it is actually charged yet.

Should I bug CW for a new battery? it is only ten month old.

John
FWIW:

Most battery chargers have a safety circuit that protects the charger when connected to a completely dead battery.

In order to get a completely discharged battery you will need to take it to someone who specializes in batteries and has a charger capable of charging a battery that is completely discharged.

Assuming that the battery can be charged it will most likely have a shortened lifespan.

Bob
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Old 03-18-2019, 03:51 PM   #19
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I had a 2002 Highlander that did not have a factory tow package. I got a quote from a hitch installer that he would install the hitch and a 7 pin connector, but the 12 volt charge circuit would not be provided, nor the electric brake wiring.
I wound upinstalling the hitch and wiring myself. I did have to run my own wires for the brakes and charge. That Highlander was not rated to tow more than 3500 pounds, so there was no provision for brakes/battery.
Not sure about the capacity of the newer ones.
My 2003 Sequoia came prepped with all wires active, once I installed the fuses and relays In the fuse/relay box under the hood. The relays and fuses were in a sealed bag in the glove box with a wire for connecting a brake controller to a harness under the dash.
Others are correct, not much current flows thru that factory battery charge wire.
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Old 03-18-2019, 07:48 PM   #20
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Or...

Quote:
Originally Posted by HappyTrav View Post
FWIW:

Most battery chargers have a safety circuit that protects the charger when connected to a completely dead battery.

In order to get a completely discharged battery you will need to take it to someone who specializes in batteries and has a charger capable of charging a battery that is completely discharged.

Assuming that the battery can be charged it will most likely have a shortened lifespan.

Bob
Or simply put on jumper cables from your vehicle and let it charge for 20 minutes. That will put enough charge on the "dead" battery that the charger will recognize it.

{RANT}
After using battery chargers for over 50 years, I got one from Harbor Freight that had this "safety" feature. I was disgusted. What happens if you simply leave the car lights on overnight? Easy to run an extension cord and hook up the battery charger. Not so easy to jump it when the dead car is nose-first into the single-wide driveway. Ultimately had to put two pairs of cables in series.

This feature was invented because they thought people were too dumb to set the 6/12 volt switch into the proper position so they were going to automatically decide. If the voltage is over 8 volts they would charge as if 12 volts; if 4-8 volts, charge as if 6 volts. If below 4 volts, refuse to operate. It wasn't the users that were dumb--it was the design engineer. He didn't need to punt if it were below 4 volts. All he had to do was charge at constant current (not voltage) for 20 minutes and then re-sample the voltage. This product is truly a designed-by-idiots product.
{/RANT}

Larry
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