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Old 04-28-2022, 08:01 AM   #1
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question for Andersen weight distribution & sway hitch users

Hello folks. Trading in my 2015 Palomino Solarie 213x Hybrid Saturday and picking up a new 2021 Prime Time Avenger 28BHS TT, nice and different layout. Now that less kids camp with me I can get rid of some sleeping space and gain living space! although this meant upgrading my hitch set up. After lots of thought and review I decided to go with the Andersen over the Equalizer. mainly because i like the idea of no bars to deal with. yes to each their own, this post isn't about which one is better

Anyways onto the Andersen question i cant find an answer to. I was thinking if you set the thread count you want and leave it you might not need to adjust each time, no socket/ratchet needed each time. Just hook the coupler to the ball then raise the hitch/truck up with the jack. now that you have extra slack hook on the triangle, lower the jack and you're done.

but i am not sure this will work, since the ball really isn't secured to the shank, if i go lifting everything up with out the triangle pin in or try to take the pin out wouldn't the ball just slide up out of the shank set up? yes i have wanted to how to videos, just thinking outside the box here, and maybe i shouldn't lol

My andersen is being delivered today (thanks amazon prime!) so i haven't had my hands on it yet, so just going off all the stuff i have read and videos i watched.

not that having to ratchet each time is a big deal just thinking, on my old set up the more i jacked things up the easier it was to hook up my bars, same should work here,
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Old 04-28-2022, 09:05 AM   #2
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Congratulations on the new trailer.

The ball and cone are retained by a circlip at the bottom. It’s shown on one of Andersen’s videos where they address replacing the brake cone material.

When removing the hitch, it seems that after you jack up to relieve the tension on the chains and drop the “whale tail” (anti-sway plate), you’d have to jack the tongue back down, release the coupler latch, then jack up again to get the coupler off the ball.
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Old 04-28-2022, 10:26 AM   #3
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The ball is secured into the shank with a retention collar that's bolted to the top of the shank housing.

I only have to use a wrench in very rare (extreme angle) occasions, usually I can hook/unhook 99% of the time by simply unloading the chain tension with the tongue jack.

As for a wrench, I bought this ratchet wrench and cut the open end off and rounded off the handle, it easily fits in my side door panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
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Old 04-28-2022, 10:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 01tundra View Post
The ball is secured into the shank with a retention collar that's bolted to the top of the shank housing.

I only have to use a wrench in very rare (extreme angle) occasions, usually I can hook/unhook 99% of the time by simply unloading the chain tension with the tongue jack.

As for a wrench, I bought this ratchet wrench and cut the open end off and rounded off the handle, it easily fits in my side door panel.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...e?ie=UTF8&th=1
ok so my thought process will work. In all the reading and videos i missed the part about the ball being secured into the shank. i will definitely keep a socket/wrench handy in my tool box if needed but expected you wouldn't really need it.



thank you
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Old 04-28-2022, 11:58 AM   #5
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The only gotcha I have heard about with that method is this guy saying his got stuck in the jack foot lip and when he raised it up, he bent the plate.

Just got my Anderson, have to install it and see how it works. I have high expectations for it based on the research I did on it.
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:07 PM   #6
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Doing the raise, lower, leave the nuts alone is a good way to go. The beauty of the Andersen is if you need a little more lift you tighten the nuts a little.
When I had mine (sadly included it when I sold the trailer) I removed the nuts each time. I knew I needed 7 or 8 threads showing so I'd raise the tongue up and spin the nuts on by hand until I had the required threads showing. No need for the wrench.
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Old 04-28-2022, 12:47 PM   #7
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I'll have to watch that. I'm thinking of using a hook or clip to hang the paste when unhooked rather than laying on the ground.

I just got notice my hitch has been delivered. Looking forward to checking it out after work
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Old 04-28-2022, 01:24 PM   #8
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Andersen Hitch

I’m on my first trip using my Andersen hitch. I had originally had a WDH with torsion bars and it worked for several years but last year, I got one of the bars wedged into the head so bad(it somehow came partially out of the socket) I ultimately scrapped that WDH and got an Andersen. This was on the recommendation of a fellow forum member with the exact same trailer.

Before this trip, I went to the storage yard to pick up trailer. It took close to two hours(&#128545 to get hooked up and pull out. I learned that instead of setting coupler down on ball and then trying to latch coupler, use the Jack to tweak the coupler position on the ball. Now, I can hook up or drop off with no trouble.

I also found that it is better to have safety chains on TOP of the “bat wing”.

If you don’t hook up in the same angle as what you dropped off, the wing will be angled and you probably won’t get both chain’s connected. The manual gives directions to get it aligned.

Nice feature is that the ball turns with the trailer. I’m presently on a trip to Missouri for a blacksmith conference. With the combination of the new WDH and new Goodyear Endurance tires replacing the original China Bombs, I was quite comfortable doing 70 MPH out I-70 (aside from some very bumpy sections in Indiana.

Enjoy the new hitch and safe travels 👍
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Old 04-28-2022, 01:44 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by Byoung4now View Post
The only gotcha I have heard about with that method is this guy saying his got stuck in the jack foot lip and when he raised it up, he bent the plate.
I've had the triangle plate get caught on the jack shaft lip where the base slides in, but caught it in time because I could hearing the jack motor starting to load up for no apparent reason.
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Old 04-28-2022, 02:51 PM   #10
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Anderson hitch

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpa098 View Post
Hello folks. Trading in my 2015 Palomino Solarie 213x Hybrid Saturday and picking up a new 2021 Prime Time Avenger 28BHS TT, nice and different layout. Now that less kids camp with me I can get rid of some sleeping space and gain living space! although this meant upgrading my hitch set up. After lots of thought and review I decided to go with the Andersen over the Equalizer. mainly because i like the idea of no bars to deal with. yes to each their own, this post isn't about which one is better

Anyways onto the Andersen question i cant find an answer to. I was thinking if you set the thread count you want and leave it you might not need to adjust each time, no socket/ratchet needed each time. Just hook the coupler to the ball then raise the hitch/truck up with the jack. now that you have extra slack hook on the triangle, lower the jack and you're done.

but i am not sure this will work, since the ball really isn't secured to the shank, if i go lifting everything up with out the triangle pin in or try to take the pin out wouldn't the ball just slide up out of the shank set up? yes i have wanted to how to videos, just thinking outside the box here, and maybe i shouldn't lol

My andersen is being delivered today (thanks amazon prime!) so i haven't had my hands on it yet, so just going off all the stuff i have read and videos i watched.

not that having to ratchet each time is a big deal just thinking, on my old set up the more i jacked things up the easier it was to hook up my bars, same should work here,

I have the Anderson Hitch and love it, I set the nut flush and the first few times I counted rotations to get it level. I then partially use the electric jack stand to raise both the truck and trailer but still have to use the socket to get the count of turns correct on the hitch. I wouldn't try for a full lift to get it set as the hitch is only so strong...
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Old 04-28-2022, 03:10 PM   #11
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The initial set up I'll adjust as instructed by andersen. But down the road I hope to lift and just place the palte on leave the tread count alone. I'll see how it goes but now know it's possible
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Old 04-28-2022, 03:22 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by bpa098 View Post
My andersen is being delivered today (thanks amazon prime!) so i haven't had my hands on it yet, so just going off all the stuff i have read and videos i watched.
By the way, since you are just installing, you may be interested in another thread here about the Andersen which particularly focusses on some issues a couple of people had with thinner frames.

The thread also touches on the issue a fair number of people here and elsewhere have experienced with the brackets sliding. The common cure was for folks to have their brackets tack-welded or even more fully-welded to the side of their frames.

The installation approach I posted on the other thread is a bit exotic and not necessarily something I'm recommending at this point. It's basically just a different approach I came up with to keep the brackets from sliding because it's a bit of a nuisance for me to take our trailer to a welder.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ch-232321.html
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Old 04-28-2022, 08:30 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Civilguy View Post
By the way, since you are just installing, you may be interested in another thread here about the Andersen which particularly focusses on some issues a couple of people had with thinner frames.

The thread also touches on the issue a fair number of people here and elsewhere have experienced with the brackets sliding. The common cure was for folks to have their brackets tack-welded or even more fully-welded to the side of their frames.

The installation approach I posted on the other thread is a bit exotic and not necessarily something I'm recommending at this point. It's basically just a different approach I came up with to keep the brackets from sliding because it's a bit of a nuisance for me to take our trailer to a welder.

https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ch-232321.html
I actually already read through that thread before ordering. I know a few welders if I have trouble
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Old 05-01-2022, 03:18 PM   #14
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How do I know if I have a "Thinner Frame" ? I have a brand new 2022 Salem Hyper-Lyte 25RBHL.

I really want the Anderson, but I don't want to damage my frame.
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Old 05-01-2022, 04:01 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rwriley1053 View Post
How do I know if I have a "Thinner Frame" ? I have a brand new 2022 Salem Hyper-Lyte 25RBHL.



I really want the Anderson, but I don't want to damage my frame.


I highly doubt you have a thinner frame with that large of a TT, But you could call Lippert with your vin# and they can tell you for sure.
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Old 05-02-2022, 08:16 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by rwriley1053 View Post
How do I know if I have a "Thinner Frame" ? I have a brand new 2022 Salem Hyper-Lyte 25RBHL.

I really want the Anderson, but I don't want to damage my frame.
Contact Forest River to determine the frame thickness. You trailer is classified by Forest River as a Hyper/Ultra Lite and the GVW is 7638#. These are all indicators of the potential for thin wall HSS structural members in the A-frame.

The best way to avoid the frame damage is have the Frame Brackets welded to the A-frame by a certified welder.
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Old 05-02-2022, 01:02 PM   #17
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I always raise the jack up to release tension, drop it to remove the "whale tail", then raise to unhitch. Works like a charm and I'm super happy with the system. Only once did i get the plate stuck on the foot pad, and like @01tundra, i noticed the jack motor struggling.
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