Ram 5.7 hemi help

[jimmoore13]

Another 2 cents...unsolicited.

4WD is a nice addition for towing.
Why?

Most valuable to me is boondocking. We never go to RV parks, but we do often go far into moderately "improved" dirt roads. Many of these are badly washboarded. When climbing a hill on a washboard road, rear wheel drive is at a huge disadvantage. Axle tramp can make hill climbs a real struggle. I just turn on "automatic" 4WD (a crude imitation of AWD) and the problem is solved. The truck tracks straight and true, and there's essentially no wheel spin or axle tramp/wheel hop. 2 years ago I passed a rear wheel drive diesel dually, that was empty and not towing, while climbing a particularly tough hill...and I was towing my rig. I blew by him like he was parked...which he more or less was.

Then there are all the other times:

• Towing the rig 1/2 mile down an ATV trail where my wife was spotting to make sure I didn't drag any fragile bits (e.g. the black tank dump);
• After the flood...you're camping and there's heavy rain on departure day;
• It snows overnight...perhaps less common where you live, but we've had snow on Father's Day weekend...and Labor Day weekend;
• Wet, slippery grass;
• That all-important ground clearance;
• Hitch height...even sitting on 20's with the air bags pumped to 45 PSI, I have to use a 2" lift ball mount on my factory receiver to get my X213 to ride level. With a 2WD, I'd need much more lift to achieve a level hookup.
• And so on...

4WD will cost you a little when it comes to towing and payload capacities and in MSRP, but it's a small price to pay.

Your Geo Pro is a boondocker's dream rig, and 4WD will allow you to take full advantage with confidence that you can get in and get out.

[RamsFan1]

Originally Posted by Adogbmw

Thx to all. Can anyone speak to pulling through Western mountains?

I have the 3.21.
My TT is 6300# fully loaded.
I have pulled mine through CO, UT, MT, WY.
Never had any issues or thought I didn't have enough truck.

[KJ6MTJ - John]

I tow just fine with my Ram 5.7 Hemi with 3:21 Gears...
However switching to 5w30 to avoid the hemi tick...

[merchjo]

Originally Posted by Adogbmw

No problem, you are correct. This is not from door sticker. The write up on web site shows Payload: 853kg (1,880lbs). This is for a Quad cab 6.4 ft bed. also towing capacity according to vin is 8830#. I know and will check on it and payload on door. just trying to get some input on 3.2 axle. thx

I have the the Express model of the same config and my trailer GW is 6500lb. I have no issues towing with the truck except the stock 20" goodyears suck. They are soft sidewalls and have alot of flex. I have since replaced the tires with Coopers. Like others said, the 8 speed makes this axle work with towing.



The 1880 you qoute is for the tradesman, which is a work truck. My express has a payload of 1540. My friends bighorn, same as min, has a payload of 1490. Higher models have less. My tongue weight, when weighed on a cat scale came out to 835lb which only leaves me with 705lb. I do use a WDH and I dont usally load it heavy but it does add up quickly. Going with a higher ration gear wont change load capacity by much, if at all, so make sure that will fit your needs.

[Adogbmw]

It is a bighorn and as I said it was. There are many configurations for these trucks. You must look at all of them, review vin# and stickers on vehicle. Thanks to all who answered my question about driving in mountains your answers have been helpful to me and hopefully others.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by merchjo

I have the the Express model of the same config and my trailer GW is 6500lb. I have no issues towing with the truck except the stock 20" goodyears suck. They are soft sidewalls and have alot of flex. I have since replaced the tires with Coopers. Like others said, the 8 speed makes this axle work with towing.
<<SNIP>>

My truck came with factory Goodyears, and I was not impressed. Depending on your hitch configuration (WDH or simple bumper pull), I suggest you firm them up by adding more PSI. The tire sidewall features a max pressure, so you can experiment with any pressure between recommended unladen pressure (door tag pressure) and sidewall max.

I now run Michelins, and I love them. Door tag on my truck calls for 35 PSI, and sidewall max is (if I recall) 45 PSI. I run with airbags and no WDH. By raising rear tire pressures to 40 PSI, I get solid handling. I leave the fronts alone because they actually carry less without the WDH.

If you haven't experimented with tire pressures, I urge you to give it a try.

When I'm done towing, I let the air out back to 35 PSI for the right mix of ride, handling, and tire wear.

[Adogbmw]

Thx, mine to come with Goodyear Wrangler. Will look into it. I'd prefer stiffer side wall tire. Had Cooper's on previous truck and really liked them.

[Bramic71]

Originally Posted by johntaylor

I have a 2012 Ram 1500 ST with the 5.7 hemi, 6-speed transmission and a 3.55 ratio. Towing capacity is 9,450 lb. I tow about 5,500 lb. It has masses of power, no problems climbing mountains at 55mph with the trailer, even at 10,000 ft in the Rockies. The temperature needle stays in the middle, and max transmission temp I have ever had was 195 deg on a steep 4,000 ft climb.

Before buying a 5.7 hemi, be aware of this design fault. Apparently it's a common failure, which cost me a $4,300 engine repair. I would never buy another Ram.
Ram 5.7 hemi cam lifter camshaft issue

100% agree on this issue. We just sold both of our Rams and are looking to go with another manufacturer. They have had years to fix this issue, and for some reason just lay it in the lap of the consumer. Never another Ram for us as well.

[Bramic71]

Originally Posted by KJ6MTJ - John

I tow just fine with my Ram 5.7 Hemi with 3:21 Gears...
However switching to 5w30 to avoid the hemi tick...

Unfortunately that doesn't always work. Ran 5/30 Redline oil with a Wix XP filter and still had the issue.

[tucson]

I tow 5000# "dry", 3.73, does ok on hills as well as flat, 62 to 63 on interstates

[dsjohns71]

Originally Posted by Bramic71

Unfortunately that doesn't always work. Ran 5/30 Redline oil with a Wix XP filter and still had the issue.

The “Hemi tick” is most always broken exhaust manifold bolts. No oil will fix that. A good exhaust shop can fix and replace all manifold bolts for a reasonable price and never worry about the “tick” again. I have 365,000+ miles on my 2011 and had them all fixed about 60k miles ago. Had the lifter failure at 245k. I still wouldn’t trade it for a different brand, they all have issues and I have had great luck ( considering all the miles) with mine and it pulls both my 2015 34’ Heritage Glen and my 2022 Salem FSX great. There are good and bad with whatever you buy, but I will stay loyal to RAM , 3 trucks over the years and not one left me stranded. I can’t say that about a Chevy or ford that I’ve previously owned.

[Bramic71]

Originally Posted by dsjohns71

The “Hemi tick” is most always broken exhaust manifold bolts. No oil will fix that. A good exhaust shop can fix and replace all manifold bolts for a reasonable price and never worry about the “tick” again. I have 365,000+ miles on my 2011 and had them all fixed about 60k miles ago. Had the lifter failure at 245k. I still wouldn’t trade it for a different brand, they all have issues and I have had great luck ( considering all the miles) with mine and it pulls both my 2015 34’ Heritage Glen and my 2022 Salem FSX great. There are good and bad with whatever you buy, but I will stay loyal to RAM , 3 trucks over the years and not one left me stranded. I can’t say that about a Chevy or ford that I’ve previously owned.

My 2012 was manifolds. My 2016 was lifters. It's has to really make you wonder about a manufacturer who has had two very common failures over the last decade or more and has done absolutely nothing to resolve the issues.

[Mitchell 2020]

I have the same Ram 1500 that you want to buy. I got mine with 17000 miles and 6 months old from Enterprise. Now I have 73000 miles. 2019. I pull a miniLite at 5000 pounds and have no troubles.

[Jcape]

Originally Posted by bikendan

The thing is that the actual payload capacity will dictate how much loaded tongue weight it can handle. Pulling a trailer, you'll run out of payload WAY before reaching the max towing capacity.

With a WDH payload doesn't enter the equation, the hitch lifts the hitch weight off the truck and distributes it to the trailer, Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH).

[1100mike]

Originally Posted by Jcape

With a WDH payload doesn't enter the equation, the hitch lifts the hitch weight off the truck and distributes it to the trailer, Weight Distributing Hitch (WDH).

Uh, no. Not quite. It's supposed to distribute weight to the steer axle. It also can distribute some weight back to the trailer axles. The tongue weight does not magically disappear off the truck..

[U.S.ArmyVeteran]

Sorry, the WDH only distributes some weight off of hitch and moves it to front axle and the trailer. Just enough to get everything level. Your hitch weight may still exceed your payload capacity. Only way to know for sure is get your entire rig weighted at a CAT Scale.

[acadianbob]

Originally Posted by lbrjet

If it has an 8 speed tranny the 3.21 won't cause an issue. Being slower off the line will be the only difference. Once you are up to speed the truck would just run in a lower gear to make the same RPM as the 3.92.

But you will have fewer remaining gears and bigger jumps when downshifting.

[adaycj]

Originally Posted by acadianbob

But you will have fewer remaining gears and bigger jumps when downshifting.

The myths about final drive ratio will never die. It is like what brand oil.

With newer transmissions the transmission programming takes care of this. Everyone always assumes you are at one extreme or the other. Launching off the line in 1st, or lugging down the expressway in top gear. When towing in tow haul mode the trans is programmed to pick the correct gear, and there are plenty of gears to choose from, and the jumps are just fine no matter what (stock) axle ratio is used.

Ram trucks, like other trucks on the market, take this into consideration. They not only change the rear diff ratio, they change the trans gear ratios too. This actually isn't new and was done even back in the 4 speed days. Some manufacturers also use a slightly different torque converter to mitigate the 1st gear launch differences too. Finally the towing capacity is adjusted by final drive as well. Stay in the limits, and it really is engineered to work. At this point with trucks with more than 4 speeds the lower ratio may actually be the better truck, assuming of course you are towing fully within the stated specs.

Specific to the make, model, and year being discussed - 1 source: https://5thgenrams.com/community/threads/an-engineers-ultimate-guide-to-3-21-vs-3-92-axle-ratio.16986/

[Jcape]

Originally Posted by 1100mike

Uh, no. Not quite. It's supposed to distribute weight to the steer axle. It also can distribute some weight back to the trailer axles. The tongue weight does not magically disappear off the truck..

You are not quite right, it equally distributes the weight between the trailer axle and the truck axles, more to the front and trailer moving the weight off the rear, leveling the load. I see so many going down the road with a WDH and the rear of the truck sagging because the have not adjusted the hitch correctly, leaving the weight on the rear axle.

[Jcape]

Originally Posted by U.S.ArmyVeteran

Sorry, the WDH only distributes some weight off of hitch and moves it to front axle and the trailer. Just enough to get everything level. Your hitch weight may still exceed your payload capacity. Only way to know for sure is get your entire rig weighted at a CAT Scale.

If adjusted correctly, the weight will be equally distributed. The toung weight of most half ton towable trailers is less than 800 lbs.