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Old 07-09-2016, 03:41 PM   #1
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Question Reese Sidewinder do i have a problem?

I just got back from a 4k mile trip pulling my 2016 Rockwood 8299BS that has the factory installed Reese sidewinder / revolution hitch. First i want to say that i really like this setup in my 2015 Ram 2500 SB CC. I have had absolutely no issues hitching or unhitching. the question i have is there is a gap at the rear of the king pin upper and lower plates. My cat scale weights are well below max so there is not an issue of overloading. i have not lubed the king box just the wedge and B&W hitch jaws. I suspect that i need to check the torque on the big nut but have not done so yet. any replies would be helpful thanks
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Old 07-09-2016, 03:47 PM   #2
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Here you go. 80 lb/ft and then tighten to be able to insert cotter pin.
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Old 07-09-2016, 04:46 PM   #3
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do you suspect that this is from normal wear and not another issue as well? has anyone else experienced this and re-torquing solve it.
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Old 07-09-2016, 05:48 PM   #4
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Mine had a gap when new and it hasn't changed in 4+ yrs and over 40k miles.
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:03 PM   #5
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I would contac Reese and send them a picture,just to be sure.Mine,on our other 5er,had a similar gap.Not quite as big as yours looks.
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Old 07-09-2016, 08:13 PM   #6
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Mine has the same gap. I think it is normal.


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Old 07-09-2016, 09:06 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by riverss View Post
do you suspect that this is from normal wear and not another issue as well? has anyone else experienced this and re-torquing solve it.

Mine is the same as yours. On two pin boxes I have had. No worries. Same as OC has said. About 20,000 kms
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Old 07-09-2016, 09:09 PM   #8
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Second post.

I would just drop by your dealer for a check on torque. You are still under warranty by the looks of it.
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Old 07-10-2016, 04:11 PM   #9
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Does your truck have the factory installed 5th wheel prep with the 4 holes in the bed of the truck or are you using the B&W turnover ball system? The B&W system is not supposed to be used with the sidewinder hitch.

https://www.etrailer.com/question-89888.html

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Old 07-10-2016, 06:40 PM   #10
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NINEBACK The B&W Patriot 5th wheel hitch uses the standard setup like most other and hooks to rails in the bed. understand the incompatibility with the B&W Companion that attaches to the turnover ball goose ball and no i do not have the puck attach points.
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Old 07-10-2016, 06:56 PM   #11
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FROZEN,OLD COOT,B and B,Mtelkman in the manual it states that the unit should be disassembled annually. i can not find any inspection criteria for this procedure. what is ok or not , go or nogo, it is no easy task and i want to be darn sure that i know what is considered acceptable wear.have youll seen any thing?
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:19 PM   #12
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My sidewinder is an older model that has 4 bolts holding the turret on but I also had a larger gap at the rear than the front. Although not as big a gap as yours. I sent a pic to Reese and they sent me a new larger bearing plate. Fixed it so the gap is the same front and back. Might be worth an email to Reese.
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Old 07-10-2016, 07:26 PM   #13
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Riverss,
I backed my truck under the hitch and dropped the swivel part on a piece of wood after taking off the castle nut. Heavy, but very simple. I cleaned everything and then put on a nice coating of molly grease. Reassembled. Torqued the castle nut to 80 lbs then backed it off a smidge to align to a hole for the big cotter pin.

Actually it is a simple task, just heavy. There was the usual dried and caked on grease and scale. Nothing that didn't come clean with a wire brush and some cleaner. The plastic bearing plate had some gouging on it but not anything that would make it unusable. The gouging appeared to have been caused by some welding spatter that had come off when the hitch was assembled after manufacture. The only issue I could see you might encounter is having a socket big enough for the nut. Fortunately I have a good selection since I have several tractors and often work on farm equipment.

Edit to add that I will not be dropping and servicing the hitch every year as supposedly recommended. After looking at it that seems excessive to me. Maybe every few years. I will just check to make sure the cotter pin is still there and everything looks OK.
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Old 07-14-2016, 07:08 PM   #14
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X2. I agree. It is job most dealers wouldn't do tear down on a used unit. A lot depends on use. Tow 30,000 miles a year maybe.
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Old 07-14-2016, 08:54 PM   #15
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Mtelkman that sounds like a reasonable way to go about it and B and B i think you are spot on . i called Cequent talked to BOB the hitch guy??? and was told that i "probably" needed to re torque the 2 1/4" nut to 80 ft lbs. he said it would probably would be a good idea to see if i could drop the lower part down a bit and clean any debris away and lube with lithium grease. i have the 16k revolution and do not have the bolts on top of the pivot point. He also told me not to be concerned about the gap it will vary due to the torque and ware on the plate. i was told that if i was a BIG DUDE i could move the arm with force but should not be able to if i was like most old guys. lol I was looking to get a bit more technical info like sacrificial material composition, wear limits, spindle bearing surface material but none of that was available to me from that source. I know if it aint broke leave it alone. i am the curious type and want to gather as much info as i can. when i do pull it apart i will be able to answer these questions.I DO really like this setup though.
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Old 07-15-2016, 12:23 PM   #16
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The plastic wear plate looks to be very similar in composition to a standard hitch no-lube plate. Really I think you are over engineering in your mind the design of the revolution hitch. It is very simply a big bolt shaft that drops down through a tube with a nut on the end. Drop it, clean it, grease it, tighten it and go. The RV will fall apart long before those big old hunks of steel wear out.


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Old 07-15-2016, 05:40 PM   #17
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you are most likely right i do have that tendency but i come by it honestly 35 years as a aircraft mechanic will do that to you lol
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Old 07-16-2016, 06:34 PM   #18
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OK today i got me a 2 1/4 inch socket and sure enough the "nut was loose" [not torqued to spec] Son and i loosened said nut and i was able to swivel the arm enough times that it dropped down a bit so i could look between the plates and found it to be clean debris so we lubed tightened and keyed the BIG nut with formidable force i can move the arn but it aint easy. i leave for another long trip next week to the Rocky Mts. i will let youl know the results. BTY i love this forum
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