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Old 04-16-2016, 11:52 AM   #21
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I use a bit of spray on lithium grease at the top of the funnel, edges of the wedge and around the jaws of the hitch (or on the king pin). I've found that some lube does make the coupling process easier.

I get a lot of noise from the turret when turning and have lubed it the best I can with the spray on lithium grease which doesn't get into the "friction plate" area well at all. I get somewhat better penetration and results squirting some "dry lube" into the area but still get a lot of groaning and moaning in turns. Noise always seems worse when things are wet from rain, washing or heavy dew. Anyone have any better ideas?

BTW, even after lubing the turret area I still can't move the pin box by hand. Probably have around 1,500 miles since I removed the bolts and activated the pin box.
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:03 PM   #22
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TandSH, mine made noise for about a year. Went to Goshen and the guys that designed the pinbox serviced mine, they got the turret down about 1" and just cleaned the flat surfaces, sprayed a little white lithium on it and put it back together. They were very emphatic about NOT lubing the turret itself. It hasn't made any noise since. If I get it anywhere near 90 degrees I spray white lithium on all the exposed surfaces, top and bottom.
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:13 PM   #23
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Thanx, OldCoot. I guess I'm going to have to find a socket to fit the turret nut and service mine as you described.
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:21 PM   #24
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Thanx, OldCoot. I guess I'm going to have to find a socket to fit the turret nut and service mine as you described.
Good luck getting the pinbox down so you can clean it, I tried and one of the guys at Goshen weighted about 300 lbs and he struggled with it. I still to this day can't move it and have towed over 40k since Goshen.
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:31 PM   #25
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What size sockets required for this unit?
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:43 PM   #26
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What size sockets required for this unit?
I think it's like 21/4" socket the Old Guy has one. Your probably going to have to take the one your getting to make sure that shaft not bent. Cequents wanted pictures of the reese unhooked and then hooked up. When they saw them is when they sent me a new one free. Plus the nut for the wedge that snapped off. I went to OC'S to have those sewer holders installed and had it locked out. Somehow OC got a nut on it and torqued it down. But when I was leaving the next day I had the wedge installed and the bolts where still in the lock down position. Thank God I checked before I pulled out can you imagine making the turn out of his driveway with the wedge in the jaws and the 3/4" bolts locking it out? I never would never be able to make a turn. We had a good laugh about that one..... I'll have that socket with me in Mayberry. I carry it all the time....
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:44 PM   #27
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Good luck getting the pinbox down so you can clean it, I tried and one of the guys at Goshen weighted about 300 lbs and he struggled with it. I still to this day can't move it and have towed over 40k since Goshen.
I can't move my new one either.
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:46 PM   #28
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I use a bit of spray on lithium grease at the top of the funnel, edges of the wedge and around the jaws of the hitch (or on the king pin). I've found that some lube does make the coupling process easier.

I get a lot of noise from the turret when turning and have lubed it the best I can with the spray on lithium grease which doesn't get into the "friction plate" area well at all. I get somewhat better penetration and results squirting some "dry lube" into the area but still get a lot of groaning and moaning in turns. Noise always seems worse when things are wet from rain, washing or heavy dew. Anyone have any better ideas?

BTW, even after lubing the turret area I still can't move the pin box by hand. Probably have around 1,500 miles since I removed the bolts and activated the pin box.
best way I found is like OC says turn 90 degrees right and spray, then 90 degrees left and spray, get it under the pad....
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:47 PM   #29
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Glenn...is that socket like stamped steel or a normal made one....thinking 4 wheel drive axle nut style..
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:58 PM   #30
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Glenn...is that socket like stamped steel or a normal made one....thinking 4 wheel drive axle nut style..
I got it at Napa and it's for tractors. It is gray, I think it 8pt or so I would give you a picture but I don't pick up my trailer from the DR. until next week, but it was made for tractors like 1/3 of the price of a socket they had. Thats when we are going to see if it fits in the area between my hitch and wheel well in the bed. Hope to save you a trip. Don't have much area in that short bed...PS: I think OC has a socket can't remember but he lent his to the engineers in Goshen, when they worked on mine to.
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Old 04-16-2016, 04:59 PM   #31
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Got it, thanks
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:02 PM   #32
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Glenn...is that socket like stamped steel or a normal made one....thinking 4 wheel drive axle nut style..
You guys are talking about 2 different sockets. The 2-1/4" is for the rear pivot nut, the wedge bolts are 5/8 bolts and use a 15/16" socket.

I made the 2-1/4" socket, now if I can just find it.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:24 PM   #33
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I got it at Napa and it's for tractors. It is gray, I think it 8pt or so I would give you a picture but I don't pick up my trailer from the DR. until next week, but it was made for tractors like 1/3 of the price of a socket they had. Thats when we are going to see if it fits in the area between my hitch and wheel well in the bed. Hope to save you a trip. Don't have much area in that short bed...PS: I think OC has a socket can't remember but he lent his to the engineers in Goshen, when they worked on mine to.
Glenn, they had the socket, but didn't have a torque wrench so I loaned them mine.
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Old 04-16-2016, 05:34 PM   #34
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I ordered this socket from amazon
(but I haven't had a chance to use it yet)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000O867B4/
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Old 04-16-2016, 11:36 PM   #35
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I've got a 2 3/8 and a 2 1/2.../ go figure.. .I'll get one this next week

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Old 04-17-2016, 05:02 AM   #36
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Glenn, they had the socket, but didn't have a torque wrench so I loaned them mine.
I knew you lent them something, Didn't mean to misquote it's been years ago. I remember buying one at Napa after and like I said my trailer is at the Dr. so I can't look at what I bought. I remember that I loosened that nut and tried to drop that revolution down, I couldn't do it by myself. If I remember right I just tightened it back and re torqued it to the specks they recommended and back it off a little to install the cotter pin. My new one still can not be turned by hand which is fine with me, I also think it makes hooking up easier. It really has nothing to do with the operation of the pivot when attached to the truck hitch. I just have to make sure I'm at the same angle when I re hook, being I can't still turn it by hand.
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