Safety Catch issues - Trailer Hitch Cup

[jlj26]

I had the same problem until I realized the latch has to move forward to lock around the ball. Sliding it all the way back to hitch.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by jlj26

I had the same problem until I realized the latch has to move forward to lock around the ball. Sliding it all the way back to hitch.

See post #22 where that was already mentioned.

[Bryan1960]

Originally Posted by McCormickJim

Padlock as a locking pin?

I used to lock my hitch, until I read an interesting article highlighting that in the event of an emergency, First Responders or other helpful folks can't unlatch and save a locked-on trailer.

Now when towing, use a non-locking pin on my TT hitch.

Wow. Never even considered this but it makes perfect sense. Thank you for the advice.

[Major Oz]

Originally Posted by CurtPutnam

We have the type of hitch shown in the (lousy) pic. We have problems with it when hitching and unhitching. It takes more time to deal with the safety catch (what is the correct nomenclature) than the entire rest of either process.

When hitching, we drop the cup on the ball and then try to insert the catch (it's a lift up and push down thing). Our problems are that it generally won't go on either an up or down motion and then when we finally get it down, we are unable to tell if it is properly engaged or not. It is possible to push the catch down and then lift the truck without it being properly engaged. we are not the only ones; many experienced campers and RV mechanics and tow truck drivers have worked with it trying to help us. Each time we drive off thinking it is engaged but we are never really sure.

Unhitching requires much jacking up and down while pulling up on the catch - trying to find that sweet spot. Often we have to move the truck while trying this and sometimes have to jump up and down on the hitch because it is lifting the truck.

You can see in the image that all the paint has been knocked off by various folks beating on the catch - generally accompanied by colorful language. At this point, it so frustrates my wife that she wants a motorhome.

What should we try before we have the whole thing replaced? If we opt to replace it, with what should we replace it?

Thanks in advance for your help.

Drop the hitch on the ball........if it doesn't latch, get in the truck and wiggle/jiggle it fore and aft.......UNTIL IT DOES.


Unhitching......reverse the process.


QED


P.S. Make sure you have a pin for the hole.

[Alabama Potter]

Originally Posted by MartiB

I have had the same problem from time to time. I was advised to hitch up by aligning the ball about 1/2 to 3/4 way under the tongue - leaving part of the ball ahead of the tongue. When the tongue makes contact with the ball, it should suck it up and the latch will then drop into place easily. Of course the lube helps as well.

This is what we do too and the hitch does seem to “suck up” the ball. Additionally when unhitching sometimes we find after chocking the wheels we need to pull forward or back by disengaging truck brake just enough to move the ball a bit then lifts right off. My husband also lubes the ball and the hitch coupler generously.

[travelingeast416]

Originally Posted by DougW

Of my 3 ideas, 2 have already been mentioned.

Get a spray can of white lithium grease and put a small amount on each movement point and little around the inside of the coupler so it will not gall the ball. WD40 is a cleaner and water displacer but not really a good lubricant.

When unhooking, chock the trailer wheels then pull the tow vehicle ahead and inch or two to relieve pressure on the moving catch in the trailer coupler.

Third thing is, if you look up inside the trailer coupler there is usually a nut under there. This is an adjustment for how tightly the coupler holds the ball. It should be adjusted so it holds snugly but not too tight, if it is too tight it will be hard to latch and unlatch. The way I adjust mine is to remove the hitch ball from the drawbar and put it in the coupler and latch it in. The ball should move with just a little resistance and not be so loose that it will rattle when you shake it.

What Doug W says is correct, however be careful adjusting the hitch. It could be that your ball is a little oversized. If you adjust the hitch to fit it, it could be dangerously loose on another ball. Probably not, but be aware of that. I had to adjust the nut on a utility trailer this week that had loosened over the years.

Sounds like you have plenty of lube. If you put more, you are just asking to get your clothes ruined. But the WD and PB are not long lasting lubricants. I use a VERY small amount of wheel bearing grease, then cover the ball with a rubber cover when not hitched, even if I remove the coupler.

[Dakota 1120]

Originally Posted by CurtPutnam

No grease - we spray WD40 or PB Blaster in there each time (mostly) and I also have used CorrosionX HD. That is a recent thing based on a suggestion similar to where your question is leading. Not sure it is enough.

WD40 has ruined more things than anyone could count. WD stands for water displacer ~ not lubricant or rust preventer.

[CurtPutnam]

Originally Posted by Dakota 1120

WD40 has ruined more things than anyone could count. WD stands for water displacer ~ not lubricant or rust preventer.

I am well aware of that from my saltwater fishing days. Any port in a storm ,,, PB & WD40 have a short term lubricating effect. Looking for a can of lithium grease for when next visit the trailer. Unfortunately, we won't be able to use it before January at the earliest.

[frankblvdr]

I use a padlock for 15 years,NEVER lock it. It is for show

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Dakota 1120

WD40 has ruined more things than anyone could count. WD stands for water displacer ~ not lubricant or rust preventer.

Not only thatm but it washes any existing lubricant off.

[Superdutymike]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

We used to have one like that, that was a little aggravating. The trick I learned was after dropping the hitch on the ball, to pull forward enough to tighten the ball against the front of the hitch cup and then the latching mechanism would engage and disengage easily.

X2

[Lee Pedrick]

Curt,, you definately got all the right answers here. And every hitch/ unhitch, will be alittle different. As said before keep the ball just forward 1/4 out front,,, lower the TT down and it will roll onto the ball. There isn't one person in this forum that hasn't had that issue.

[SuperSonet]

If you have a WDH it may depend on how many washers you have in the head adjustment. The more washers you place on the adjustment pin makes the ball tilt toward the ground thus creating an angle difference between the TT coupler and the TV ball, the greater the angle difference the harder it is to get the latch to drop in. If you park on perfectly level ground, usually, the problem does not arise.
In my case, I have our TT parked on a sloped driveway with the tongue very close to the end of the driveway and when I back the TV up from the crowned street to the tongue it is at an opposite angle thus making the angle difference even greater. Most of the time I need to get my floor jack and place it underneath the hitch head and jack it up enough to level the TV to more closely match the TT tongue level.
I also have the same problem trying to unhitch, I can't get the latch to release so I have to jack up the hitch again till the angle is diminished to the point that the latch will release. As I stated earlier, parking on level camp sites the problem hardly ever arises but parking at home in the driveway gives me grief.
BTW....I always keep the ball and tongue cup greased while towing.

[Hersbird]

Originally Posted by MartiB

I have had the same problem from time to time. I was advised to hitch up by aligning the ball about 1/2 to 3/4 way under the tongue - leaving part of the ball ahead of the tongue. When the tongue makes contact with the ball, it should suck it up and the latch will then drop into place easily. Of course the lube helps as well.

This. Basically you want the trailer to sort of hook the ball as it goes on, pulling the truck back or trailer forward less than an inch. Then the ball isn't sitting so far back it pushes the couple up inside and the ball is not engaged. If it does that, it usually is evident the latch is sitting up too high and the bottom of the ball is more exposed.

[CurtPutnam]

Thank you all !!! I am going to spray some CorrosionX HD in the latch. When we get closer to our next trip, I'll spray some white lithium grease in there. We will follow the recommendations for keeping the truck/hitch ball forward in the cup - and the ways and means of so doing.

[Mrprovy]

I've been following this thread, as I was having the same problem. No more!

The solution for me was to disengage the parking brake. It is second nature for me to engage the parking brake on my vehicles when I put them into park, but there wasn't enough wiggle for the ball to move. Last couple of hookup's/disconnect's, I left the parking brake off and the connection/separation was effortless.

FYI, I'm using the Andersen WDH and they specifically say do not use any lubricants on the ball/tongue, it needs to be dry for the system to work properly.

[CurtPutnam]

Originally Posted by Mrprovy

I've been following this thread, as I was having the same problem. No more!

FYI, I'm using the Andersen WDH and they specifically say do not use any lubricants on the ball/tongue, it needs to be dry for the system to work properly.

I, too, am using the Andersen. I thought they said no need for grease. Did not get install directions where this was probably called out. Thanks!

[Mrprovy]

Originally Posted by CurtPutnam

I, too, am using the Andersen. I thought they said no need for grease. Did not get install directions where this was probably called out. Thanks!

You can download the complete directions from their website, and their customer support is excellent.


https://help.andersenhitches.com/ins...ribution-hitch

[NHHorseman]

grease, oil, grease oil, grease oil
Get the hint?

[CurtPutnam]

Originally Posted by NHHorseman

grease, oil, grease oil, grease oil
Get the hint?

Andersen hitches do not want the ball or cup greased.