Safety Chains and 7-pin connector too short

[tffsoldier]

My wife bought a new Rockwood 8311 while I am deployed. Her dad pulled the camper home with his truck and several times since then. My wife finally got the brake controller installed in my truck and decided that they would use my truck this weekend to pull the camper. However, when they went to hook it up, the safety chains and 7 pin connector were too short. I have a 2010 F-150 with factory tow package. She is in a panic that this will be a pain to fix. Any body have any easy fixes for these problems?
I did a little research on-line and found the extension cables for the electrical connection. However, I am a bit lost with the safety chains. Can the existing chains be removed for the camper and longer ones added? Is it easier to try to find the connectors and add to the chain? Any easy ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also, is this something that is "common"? Should I be contacting the dealer to have them fix this? Is it even their issue? The dealer is about 3 hours away, so taking the camper there is not really an option

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by tffsoldier

My wife bought a new Rockwood 8311 while I am deployed. Her dad pulled the camper home with his truck and several times since then. My wife finally got the brake controller installed in my truck and decided that they would use my truck this weekend to pull the camper. However, when they went to hook it up, the safety chains and 7 pin connector were too short. I have a 2010 F-150 with factory tow package. She is in a panic that this will be a pain to fix. Any body have any easy fixes for these problems?
I did a little research on-line and found the extension cables for the electrical connection. However, I am a bit lost with the safety chains. Can the existing chains be removed for the camper and longer ones added? Is it easier to try to find the connectors and add to the chain? Any easy ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also, is this something that is "common"? Should I be contacting the dealer to have them fix this? Is it even their issue? The dealer is about 3 hours away, so taking the camper there is not really an option

Howdy tffsoldier. Your Rockwood 8311SS (as I didn't just see a 8311 but may have missed it) is similar in length/weight to my Flagstaff that I pull with a 3/4 ton. The first thing I noticed (unrelated to your two problems) is you stated she will be towing this trailer with a F-150.

Just to make sure she has enough truck to do this, here is Ford's 2010 trailer towing guide, that lists each different model of their F-150 including cab, rear-end, and motors..........to be positive..

Page 4, near the bottom, of this guide tells how to read the door label to get your axle ratio code if unknown to you.

If I read your trailers specs correct, the trailer has a GVW of 8,450 lbs itself.

http://www.ford.com/assets/pdf/towin...vF150sep09.pdf

[fonzie]

I have similar trailer and as wmtire says, check towing rating as it will be close. Here is a link to extension chain and 7 pin cable for purchase....

Extension Kit for ProPride 3P or Hensley Arrow - ProPride, Inc.

[ChooChooMan74]

Instead of being weight police, why not help the guy out.

You should be able tobremove the chains and buy longer ones or buy extensions. Same with the cord. But, I am more curious why it is too short.

[ependydad]

We have a local hitch shop/trailer place that we have used a few times (recommended by a friend and we've since recommended others to go there). They aren't normally the cheapest, but they know their business and are very helpful. See if she can find a trailer shop in the area- they should be able to help her out.

As for the weight discussion- it's worth learning the numbers and making an educated decision.

[KDHfan]

Originally Posted by tffsoldier

My wife bought a new Rockwood 8311 while I am deployed. Her dad pulled the camper home with his truck and several times since then. My wife finally got the brake controller installed in my truck and decided that they would use my truck this weekend to pull the camper. However, when they went to hook it up, the safety chains and 7 pin connector were too short. I have a 2010 F-150 with factory tow package. She is in a panic that this will be a pain to fix. Any body have any easy fixes for these problems?
I did a little research on-line and found the extension cables for the electrical connection. However, I am a bit lost with the safety chains. Can the existing chains be removed for the camper and longer ones added? Is it easier to try to find the connectors and add to the chain? Any easy ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also, is this something that is "common"? Should I be contacting the dealer to have them fix this? Is it even their issue? The dealer is about 3 hours away, so taking the camper there is not really an option

Sent you a PM. Good luck with the new unit.

[tffsoldier]

Yeah..yeah...yeah...I didn't post on here for the weight police. If you notice the title of my post it has nothing to do with weight. I know that the camper is maxing my truck but it is within its capabilites. I did a ton of research on this. So, no more weight police please.
Thanks so far for the ideas and the kit. That should give my wife some piece of mind knowing that there is an easy fix out there. Any additional ideas are appreciated.

[MtnGuy]

Originally Posted by tffsoldier

Yeah..yeah...yeah...I didn't post on here for the weight police. If you notice the title of my post it has nothing to do with weight. I know that the camper is maxing my truck but it is within its capabilites. I did a ton of research on this. So, no more weight police please.
Thanks so far for the ideas and the kit. That should give my wife some piece of mind knowing that there is an easy fix out there. Any additional ideas are appreciated.

tffsoldier, the members here are concerned for the safety of your wife and you (and family if that applies). I feel sure there that no ill will was intended.

Since you are apparently aware of your truck and hitch capabilities, as well as your trailer weights and length, then I will make sure this thread stays on track with your question, but I will let the previous posts remain.

BTW, thank you for your service.

[Doering]

Originally Posted by tffsoldier

My wife bought a new Rockwood 8311 while I am deployed. Her dad pulled the camper home with his truck and several times since then. My wife finally got the brake controller installed in my truck and decided that they would use my truck this weekend to pull the camper. However, when they went to hook it up, the safety chains and 7 pin connector were too short. I have a 2010 F-150 with factory tow package. She is in a panic that this will be a pain to fix. Any body have any easy fixes for these problems?
I did a little research on-line and found the extension cables for the electrical connection. However, I am a bit lost with the safety chains. Can the existing chains be removed for the camper and longer ones added? Is it easier to try to find the connectors and add to the chain? Any easy ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Also, is this something that is "common"? Should I be contacting the dealer to have them fix this? Is it even their issue? The dealer is about 3 hours away, so taking the camper there is not really an option

My chains were also too short. The chains could not be removed from the frame (at the attachment point). I ended up lengthening the chains by using a quick link with 2 or 3 links of new chain. The end of the safety chains bolted to the hook, so I could separate the hook from the main length of chain. The main problem for me was locating a new piece of chain and quick links with a high enough rating to match or exceed the safety chains. I ended up getting the quick link and new chain from a marine supply store!
Can post a picture of my chains if this solution is not clear.

PS: I'm surprised the electrical connection did not reach. Usually lots of excess cable. Depending on the brand of WDH, yes the safety chains can be too short.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by tffsoldier

Yeah..yeah...yeah...I didn't post on here for the weight police. If you notice the title of my post it has nothing to do with weight. I know that the camper is maxing my truck but it is within its capabilites. I did a ton of research on this. So, no more weight police please.
Thanks so far for the ideas and the kit. That should give my wife some piece of mind knowing that there is an easy fix out there. Any additional ideas are appreciated.

Seems like you get 'em whether you want 'em or not.

[OldCoot]

Just remember, the safety chains must be able to withstand the load of pulling the trailer and the shock load if the coupler/ball should break. They must be crossed under the tongue to catch the tongue in case of a disconnect.

[KDHfan]

Try Fastenal Company if you go the link route. They can find just about anything that involves high strength chain.

[tffsoldier]

Originally Posted by fonzie

I have similar trailer and as wmtire says, check towing rating as it will be close. Here is a link to extension chain and 7 pin cable for purchase....

Extension Kit for ProPride 3P or Hensley Arrow - ProPride, Inc.

Does anyone happen to know the weight limit on the connectors and chains in this kit? The GVW of my camper is right around 8,500 lbs, so I was wondering if this would work. Seems like an easy fix if it will. Thanks

[Campcation]

Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Campcation

Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?

The chains when crossed just need to be long enough to hook. When the trailer turns the slack will increase due to the crossing.

[Doering]

Originally Posted by Campcation

Yes crossing the chains is something I just found out with my second trailer. How do you know the correct length for the chains?

Long enough so that they do not bind or become tight on any part of the hitch on the sharpest turn possible. The chains when crossed basically form a nice arc from the trailer to the TV without dragging on the ground. I probably have about 3-4 inches of ground clearance from the lowest point of my safety chains.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Doering

Long enough so that they do not bind or become tight on any part of the hitch on the sharpest turn possible. The chains when crossed basically form a nice arc from the trailer to the TV without dragging on the ground. I probably have about 3-4 inches of ground clearance from the lowest point of my safety chains.

I was told years ago by a MO State Highway Patrol that they should be the shortest possible and if they have scuff marks on any links that have contacted the ground they should be replaced. I always made mine as short as possible with minimal sag.

[jeeplj8]

OK - I am trying to figure this one out. Is your wife using the same receiver shank and ball set-up on your F-150 as she did on her Dad's truck?

The only reason I can think the chains would be too short is if the shank is really long. I am not sure what WDH hitch you are using, but many can be used with a variety of shanks. I ended up with a long shank for Reece Dual cam. When I set it up I intended to replace it pretty quick but found I like it because it means I can turn sharper without hitting trailer...not that that has ever happened to me before...

Anyway - before I started trying to find ways to lengthen the safety chains, I would look at the WDH and see if a shorter shank is possible.

And this is why - the safety chain should be a solid link where it attaches to the trailer to a welded loop. It is no small task to replace with a longer chain as it involves removing that loop and welding in a new one. Just adding quick links is IMHO a really poor choice as you would need a quick link with a 20K lb break strength. Not common, and darn sure not cheap.

[Doering]

Originally Posted by jeeplj8

Just adding quick links is IMHO a really poor choice as you would need a quick link with a 20K lb break strength. Not common, and darn sure not cheap.

You only need to buy 2 quick links ($7 each) and enough chain with a SWL (safe working load) to match the existing chain. The metal tag on our safety chain indicated a SWL of 8,300 lbs. I bought about 2 feet of chain (forget the price, it was less than $5). The guy in the store cut out (with gigantic chain cutters) the desired number of links I needed. The quick links were rated between 10-12K.
I checked with our provincial ministry of transportation to make sure this would be approved. Yes, it was a lot of running around and calling to find the right chain and links with the adequate ratings, but it was something I could do without returning to a dealer and avoid new welding.

[jeeplj8]

Originally Posted by Doering

You only need to buy 2 quick links ($7 each) and enough chain with a SWL (safe working load) to match the existing chain. The metal tag on our safety chain indicated a SWL of 8,300 lbs. I bought about 2 feet of chain (forget the price, it was less than $5). The guy in the store cut out (with gigantic chain cutters) the desired number of links I needed. The quick links were rated between 10-12K.
I checked with our provincial ministry of transportation to make sure this would be approved. Yes, it was a lot of running around and calling to find the right chain and links with the adequate ratings, but it was something I could do without returning to a dealer and avoid new welding.

for a nearly 10K gross weight trailer, you would need 1/2 inch chain with carries a sheer strength of 27,000 pounds. The largest quick link made is 1/2 inch but has a max strength of 10,000 pounds.

No offense, but why would you put in a link that has nearly 60% less strength than the chain you are attaching?