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Old 01-16-2018, 06:20 PM   #21
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I am curious. Do these leveling systems operate with the ignition off? IF that is true, adjust/install the WDH with the ignition off to get the vehicle back to level and let the vehicle system do the rest of the adjustments after that.


Mine didn’t. The problem was that most times you won’t remove all the rear drop with a WDH. Many instructions will tell you to set the ball hight 1 - 2 inches high to account for it. What will happen is that, once you get the front where it needs to be, the rear might be an inch or so lower. If the auto level picks it back up an inch, it changes the head angle and takes tension off the bars. Maybe noticeable maybe not.
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:27 PM   #22
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I am curious. Do these leveling systems operate with the ignition off? IF that is true, adjust/install the WDH with the ignition off to get the vehicle back to level and let the vehicle system do the rest of the adjustments after that.
The system in question is completely independent of the ignition, its mechanical and passive. Honestly, its a leveling system in the loosest possible terms, as much marketing as engineering. When folks on this board hear load leveling system they think airbags, load sensing, adjustable etc.. That isn't what the Durango has. This is basically shocks that stiffen up when rebounding while under a payload. To 'activate' it takes just weight then movement.
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Old 01-17-2018, 02:02 AM   #23
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The system in question is completely independent of the ignition, its mechanical and passive. Honestly, its a leveling system in the loosest possible terms, as much marketing as engineering. When folks on this board hear load leveling system they think airbags, load sensing, adjustable etc.. That isn't what the Durango has. This is basically shocks that stiffen up when rebounding while under a payload. To 'activate' it takes just weight then movement.
Ok..makes sense.

Sounds like a system I would be taking off my vehicle if I towed with a WDH!
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Old 01-18-2018, 11:41 AM   #24
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Not really - what you have missed in the discussion is that the OP and my tow vehicles have a very specific 'auto level system', which has no airbags, doesn't air up or inflate on activation, and is in fact passive in its operation. I can go outside and start my empty truck, and there isn't so much as a hair of movement up or down in the rear well. There is no way to engage or disengage it. That makes it a moot point with regards to disabling for install. The question really is should you give it any time to 'activate' before install - driving it around the block before hitching. After this thread and some research on my own, I inclined to think that it probably isn't so important either way given our specific setup (provided you aren't carrying a ton of payload while trying to dial in a WDH, as the 'active' system won't be doing much, if anything to an empty truck).

I'm sure that weight has been transferred and the WDH is working correctly as there was noticeable squat in the rear and lift up front during install, which was offset by the WDH. All that said the dial back to square, or slight overshoot as recommended by EQ to the OP does indeed make sense on our particular install.
It seems to me that the same applies. If you can start up the truck, and nothing happens until you drive around a while, that's perfect. You don't want it to do anything until after you have set up the WDH.

Set up the WDH for proper loading (moving lost front weight back onto the front wheels where it belongs). Then when you start driving, let the self-leveling system (mechanical, pneumatic, whatever...), do whatever it wants to do. The point is that a self-leveling system can not transfer weight. Therefore, to then extent that you have a choice, set up the WDH before the self-leveling system intervenes.
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Old 01-18-2018, 11:43 AM   #25
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The system in question is completely independent of the ignition, its mechanical and passive. Honestly, its a leveling system in the loosest possible terms, as much marketing as engineering. When folks on this board hear load leveling system they think airbags, load sensing, adjustable etc.. That isn't what the Durango has. This is basically shocks that stiffen up when rebounding while under a payload. To 'activate' it takes just weight then movement.
I just noticed you said, "shocks" in this post. If that's what we are talking about, then it's not a "self leveling suspension" as the thread title says. If these are only automatic adjusting dampers, there is no leveling, only dampening. Moot point.
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Old 01-18-2018, 11:51 AM   #26
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Therefore, to then extent that you have a choice, set up the WDH before the self-leveling system intervenes.
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Old 01-19-2018, 08:48 AM   #27
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I just noticed you said, "shocks" in this post. If that's what we are talking about, then it's not a "self leveling suspension" as the thread title says. If these are only automatic adjusting dampers, there is no leveling, only dampening. Moot point.
Incorrect. They are shocks, however they are absolutely a self leveling suspension capable of increasing rear stiffness and ride height in response to payload.

As stated above, if you have this type of system in your TV, provided you hitch with an empty truck, you should be ok either turning the truck off (does nothing for passive system) or driving it around the block first (engaging the system, with no payload = little if any intervention from system)

Nivomat Shock Absorbers: Self-Leveling Monotube Ride Control Units

When I originally started looking into it after the OP's post I initially thought the system was gimmicky - as much marketing as function. However, after understanding what it is and how it operates I have become extremely impressed. It is a legit self leveling system, which is not complex, does not require additional parts (airbags, compressors, electronic controls) and is simple and mechanical in operation requiring no input or care from the user.
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Old 01-19-2018, 04:22 PM   #28
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OK, that's more reading in the link that I care to do right now, but I'll be convinced that these shocks are self-leveling once in-route.


I think I may have figured out what was troubling me. When you said "drive around the block", I thought you meant with the trailer in tow, which would have had the shocks attempting to level the rig. That would not be a good idea, as (like I'd said from beginning), that would not transfer any weight to the front, and would hinder the WDH from doing it's job.


However, I think I'm now interpreting your statement that driving around the block would be without the trailer (yes?). You said "no payload" which a trailer is not. But I assume now that you meant no load applied to the rear at all.
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Old 01-19-2018, 06:49 PM   #29
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Exactly, I think we are on the same page now...

Drive around the block without the trailer to give the system time to 'active' then back in and hitch up and dial in... but after all this education on the system, it seems like it really won't matter either way provide your truck is empty - as there will be no intervention from the system.
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