setting up Equalizer with TV that has self leveling suspension

[MillMitch]

I apologize in advance if this has already been discussed, but I can't find it. Equalizer E2 instructions indicate self leveling functionality in TV should be turned off or fuse pulled during WDH setup. However, it doesn't say that it should be turned off when towing. Won't the self leveling function raise the backend higher than intended if it was turned off for WDH adjustment? Or am I supposed to disable self leveling function prior to towing? I'm not following the logic or I'm missing something.
Instructions for vehicles with airbags is exactly the opposite, air bags should be inflated prior to adjusting WDH.
Dealer setup on hitch needs some adjusting. All the stuff I put in trailer is part of the reason, but I suspect this is also part of the problem. Anybody setup a WDH on a TV with a self leveling suspension?
thanks,
Mitch

[Kacz]

I dialed in my Durango and WDH with the leveling suspension active. I did do it on a level surface, with relatively nothing in the back of the truck. It was even recommended to me by someone with far more knowledge than I about this stuff, to drive it around the block first to ensure the system was active and engaged.

I suspect that in extreme cases if you had a load back there and maybe some uneven pavement it could cause your dial in to be off, but I would set your WDH as the vehicle would be towing.

[MillMitch]

Originally Posted by Kacz

I dialed in my Durango and WDH with the leveling suspension active. I did do it on a level surface, with relatively nothing in the back of the truck. It was even recommended to me by someone with far more knowledge than I about this stuff, to drive it around the block first to ensure the system was active and engaged.

I suspect that in extreme cases if you had a load back there and maybe some uneven pavement it could cause your dial in to be off, but I would set your WDH as the vehicle would be towing.

Thanks, that's exactly what I was hoping someone would say.

[911Fire]

I have the E2 hitch also and manually inflated bags. I believe the instructions said to have the bags inflated to desired psi before setting up the wdh. I’d imagine that’d be the same for self leveling also. Unless they’re rational is that you can’t get an accurate initial front wheel well measurement w/o the bars hooked up because the truck will be compensating.

[Kacz]

Originally Posted by MillMitch

Thanks, that's exactly what I was hoping someone would say.

I honestly can't think of a reason to not have the level system running when dialing in, but I am no expert. I do know however that EQs customer service is top notch (at least when I called with questions). Maybe give them a buzz tomorrow and ask them why they recommend not? If so please post as I would be curious to the reasoning!

Good Luck.

[Wilco]

You might ask Dodge what they recommend. See if they have an 800 number or FAQ on this.

[hbillsmith]

From 2010 to 2013 I towed a 24ft Travel Trailer behind a 2010 Mercedes GL450 SUV using a WDH. That car uses an automatic leveling system that uses Air Bags at all four wheels. I was careful to buy a trailer whos weight and tongue weight were within the specs published by Mercedes for that car. The trailer towed beautifully and we loved the hitches anti-sway and WDH capabilities. Over that time I also visited the CAT scales about 3 times and did the 3 multi-weight scheme to verify all weights both with trailer on and trailer off combinations. All was good until...

We still have the SUV but sold the trailer and upgraded to our current fifth wheel and diesel truck. About 6 months after we made the change over, the SUV's level system failed with a bad air compressor and leaky air bags in the rear, $2400 to repair. 9 months later the front bags failed, $1600 to fix. The conclusion by Mercedes is that the cars auto-level system was over-taxed as it constantly tried to compensate for adjustments made by the WDH. Most disconcerting was this is apparently common for any car/SUV that uses auto-leveling.

So basically, you can setup your WDH any way you want but if the car has auto-leveling and does not provide a way to disable same (like the Mercedes), you will most likely destroy that leveling system over time....At least that's what happened to me. If your SUV or truck allows you to disable auto-leveling, you should probably do so and just depend on the WDH to handle level by itself while towing.

[MillMitch]

Thanks for everybody's comments. I'm waiting to hear back from Equalizer, but since we're towing with my wife's Durango, I'm inclined to shut if off for adjusting and towing. I'll post what I hear from Equalizer.
Mitch

[Restcure]

When I did ours with our 1gen Toyota Sequoia a long time ago, I left the truck off and set up the WDH by wheel well measurements. That way at least I knew I was getting the correct amount of weight distribution.

Yep, when I turned on the truck the airbags would lift it a little more. They don't change the weight distribution one whit and they made the truck level. What's not to like?

[minilite2507s]

On level ground hitch up the WDH to the trailer the normal way (air bags inoperative) so it sits as close to level as possible. Then turn on TV to finish the job.

https://youtu.be/XBZu39pQ8Gg

[Kacz]

I understand the leveling rear suspension in a Durango as a passive mechanical shock based system, as opposed to an intricate air ride system like in the MB mentioned above. I do not even know of a way to turn it off frankly.

[raspivey]

I pulled with a Tahoe with auto leveling. The only thing I did was not set the ball high to anticipate sag. Loaded up it squatted an inch or so then came back up. After that, tweak as usual. When I swapped trailers and my TW went to 900 ish lbs, it worked it’s butt off for that inch or so. I wouldn’t put that much weight on it. 600 or so it was never a problem.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by Kacz

I honestly can't think of a reason to not have the level system running when dialing in, but I am no expert. I do know however that EQs customer service is top notch (at least when I called with questions). Maybe give them a buzz tomorrow and ask them why they recommend not? If so please post as I would be curious to the reasoning!

Good Luck.

Depending on how you're setting up, you could just end up fighting the auto levelling system. For example, if you use the hitch to raise the back of the vehicle slightly to connect your hitch bars, the vehicle will just try to lower. In a worse case scenario, you could end up putting the whole sprung weight of the rear of the vehicle on just your trailer jack. The rear of my truck is only air bags, no springs at all. For hooking up the bars, I disable the system. To do final measurements after an initial setup I would have it enabled.

[TimVWulp]

This is a very interesting video on air bag and weight distribution system use. This video dose not apply to fifth wheel use with air bag level system.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XBZu39pQ8Gg

Hope This Helps Tim

[babock]

Great video

[MillMitch]

Thanks for everybody's comments. I wanted to close the loop on this after calling my Dodge dealer, calling Equalizer and researching online.
Called the Dodge dealer service area and they couldn't find anything about disabling the leveling system. This coincides with comment above about leveling system being mechanical. Online descriptions of leveling system described the Durango's as hydraulic ratcheting built into rear shocks (fairly technical, but apparently system tries to keep rod length the same in the rear shocks). Called and talked to Equalizer tech. He said they've had the best luck setting up WDH hitch in TV with leveling suspension by getting the loaded front fender measurement to slightly lower (as opposed to at least half way back as per instruction manual) than original empty measurement (i.e. over distributed). Then when you start towing, self leveling function will bring it down and level.
I plan on adjusting the hitch (without disabling anything) and getting everything weighed in the spring. I'll post weights at that time, but until then, this is all I got.
thanks again,
Mitch

[Kacz]

Thanks for the update, and doing the legwork calling dodge and EQ. Was following closely as this is my situation as well.

Interesting that EQ recommend to overshoot the adjustment... As I stated above, was recommended to me and I dialed in with the leveling system 'active' and if i recall my measured front end gap was about equal pre and post install, and rear was just slightly down, so I think I should be good.

I might redo the install in the spring regardless since it has been a year now, in case the washers have compressed etc... so this new info helps a ton.

Thanks again.

[thebrakeman]

Think of it this way. With a WDH, the WD bars start out angled low (disengaged), and have to be lifted a certain amount to be engaged. The more they are lifted, the more weight gets transferred back to the front. With airbags, or auto-leveling, no matter how much the rear axle is pushed upward, even though the front ride height may come back to near stock (per the video above), you are not transferring any weight from rear to front.


Now, if you start your setup with the bags/system engaged, the rear end will be jacked up to level already. There will be very little lift remaining for the WD bars. As said, if you don't lift the bars as much, you won't transfer as much weight.


It's as simple as that. Engaging airbags/auto-leveling before setting up your WDH will mean you will not return enough weight to the front for optimum stability, steering, etc.


I don't see the point in "overshooting the adjustment". Just set up the WDH with the system off, to get the proper loading. Then, turn the auto-leveling system back on. This will lift the rear end up just a tad more, without affecting the weight distribution.

[Kacz]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

It's as simple as that. Engaging airbags/auto-leveling before setting up your WDH will mean you will not return enough weight to the front for optimum stability, steering, etc.

Not really - what you have missed in the discussion is that the OP and my tow vehicles have a very specific 'auto level system', which has no airbags, doesn't air up or inflate on activation, and is in fact passive in its operation. I can go outside and start my empty truck, and there isn't so much as a hair of movement up or down in the rear well. There is no way to engage or disengage it. That makes it a moot point with regards to disabling for install. The question really is should you give it any time to 'activate' before install - driving it around the block before hitching. After this thread and some research on my own, I inclined to think that it probably isn't so important either way given our specific setup (provided you aren't carrying a ton of payload while trying to dial in a WDH, as the 'active' system won't be doing much, if anything to an empty truck).

I'm sure that weight has been transferred and the WDH is working correctly as there was noticeable squat in the rear and lift up front during install, which was offset by the WDH. All that said the dial back to square, or slight overshoot as recommended by EQ to the OP does indeed make sense on our particular install.

[babock]

I am curious. Do these leveling systems operate with the ignition off? IF that is true, adjust/install the WDH with the ignition off to get the vehicle back to level and let the vehicle system do the rest of the adjustments after that.