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Old 06-26-2018, 04:53 AM   #1
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Slight bucking when pulling 5er

So as most know I bought a new 1ton TV and it pulls like a boss, I have an Anderson Hitch and I was getting a slight bucking when taking off and on rough roads. I contacted Anderson and explained what was happening. Little back History: My 2500 truck was a 6.5' bed and the Anderson was installed for that bed. The Anderson Hitch has an offset that you can either place the ball closer to the cab or closer to the tail gate, on my Standard bed 2500 it was setup so the ball was closer to the tail gate. I placed the hitch in the 1ton truck the same way. According to Anderson, since its a long bed the ball goes closer to the cab and centers the weight over the axle.


I haven't towed with it like that yet, but I noticed that with the recommended placement the truck is a lot closer to the camper. Especially with the tailgate down. I'm leery of this and will be cautious the first time I pull with it.


Is there a specific distance between the rear bumper and the camper I should be aware of?
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Old 06-27-2018, 04:55 AM   #2
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Anyone?
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:22 AM   #3
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Andersen Hitches has a new video on You Tube that details the measurement process to help with hitch set up. Also make another call to Andersen and talk with them, they have excellent customer support and will help you get set up correctly.
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:45 AM   #4
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I don't have the Anderson but with my truck "14 RAM CCLB B&W 3500 Companion 5th hitch", my tail gate is only 6 inches from the camper when it is down, when it is up and towing there is plenty of room to turn, however I can't hook up at an angle unless I pull under the king pin and put the tailgate up, I can back straight under or horizontal to the camper without issue.
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Old 06-27-2018, 10:45 AM   #5
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See the diagram here https://www.etrailer.com/question-144392.html

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Old 06-27-2018, 04:50 PM   #6
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Thanks for all the replies. I did call Anderson again, reverified what I was already told. I should be good, but for piece of mind I'll do some measuring and testing with a spotter.

Mike
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Old 06-27-2018, 05:16 PM   #7
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You can buy one of those notched tailgates but they aren’t cheap and with my truck I’d lose the rear view camera in the stock tailgate.
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Old 06-27-2018, 06:51 PM   #8
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Moving the hall loser to the cab as already said , will probably do it , It worked for me
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Old 06-27-2018, 11:54 PM   #9
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Agree, I had bucking when the Kingpin was too far back in the bed
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Old 06-28-2018, 08:55 AM   #10
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So just to clarify, I had bucking in my LB DRW when the coupler was ball-forward. The trailer was also very close to the bumper.

I turned the coupler ball- rearward (closer to tailgate) and I had more clearance AND the side benefit was nearly all the bucking was gone.

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Old 06-28-2018, 09:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaps2018 View Post
So just to clarify, I had bucking in my LB DRW when the coupler was ball-forward. The trailer was also very close to the bumper.

I turned the coupler ball- rearward (closer to tailgate) and I had more clearance AND the side benefit was nearly all the bucking was gone.

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Interesting. Like stated Anderson told me I had it backwards when the ball was closest to the tailgate. Also said to check the receiver on the kingpin to make sure the release handle was on the drivers side of the truck, if it's on the passenger side it would move the trailer closer to the tailgate. My truck is a DRW LB.
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:04 AM   #12
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When installing a 5er hitch I was told that the pin should always be just forward of the axle regardless of bed length, I may be wrong ( I often am) but I thought the axle to rear of the truck length was the same for long bed vs short bed, they put the "extra" bed room of a long bed in front of the axle going to the cab, so this leaves the same length from your axle to the bumper number the same between long vs short bed. It is my understanding the hitch should be just slightly forward of the axle no matter what to properly handle the load.


I hope this made sense and may be different between hitch manufacturers
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:10 AM   #13
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The Andersen manual gives you the latitude to have the coupler either way so I would try both and decide which way works best for you

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Old 06-28-2018, 10:17 AM   #14
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Another change that I made (to offset rear end sag on the truck) was to add timbrens on the rear end. Timbren DR3500CA Suspension Enhancement System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TNBT16..._kTpnBb9AB2XHN

I notice when the trailer is hitched these touch the axle. Perhaps that while it addressed the sag, it may have address some of the bucking as well.


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2018 Chaparral 360IBL w/TST507 TPMS, Lippert GC3 Autolevel, Furrion Backup Cam, Progressive HW50C
2006 RAM 3500 DRW LoneStar Edition
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Old 06-28-2018, 10:35 AM   #15
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itat: I too have a 2016 Ford F-250 with the stock camera in the tailgate. I wanted to switch to the 5th wheel tail gate with the V in it but did not want to lose the camera capability. I ordered a pigtail from ford that plugs into the factory harness under the back of the truck near the spare tire. Your factory tailgate camera will unplug from this harness. I then went onto ebay and bought a cheapy camera for about $10. I called my Ford dealer and got the wiring match ups and wired the new camera into the pigtail. I glued the camera to a heavy duty magnet so when I want to hook up to my Anderson hitch I turn the camera around to point into the bed of the truck. When I am not hitched up I turn the camera around so I now acts as my backup camera.
I know you didn't ask for the long message just wanted to let you know you can have the best of both worlds.
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