Tow setup

[Tripdoc6]

I am new and I have read a bunch of stuff on this forum and others. I know there is a ton of stuff on i just wanted to put my setup on here and get recommended setups. I'm looking for a WDH with away setup this is my first TT so with everything out there it is alittle confusing. I have a 2018 silverado 2500 gas and just bought a FR Aurora 28bhs the dealer was trying to sell me a equalizer 12k setup for $1100 which I wanted to look into alittle before buying. And if I'm correct that setup i can buy for half of the price. But I also have been looking at the andersons and blue ox. Any information,details or recommendations would be appreciated.

[007matman]

Two groups of thought on this..

Many (me included) have gone with the Fastway E2 or Equal-i-zer 4-point and the Andersen hitches and are perfectly happy. Personally, that's what I would go with. However, that price is waay out of whack. Most of the previously mentioned can be had for 5-600 all day. If you buy a used one (which is what I did) expect to be half of that or less.

Then there are the Pro-Pride, Hensley, etc hitch people that claim theirs is the best but be ready to pay for it as most of those are 4-6 times the price of the before mentioned hitches. Some of them have tried the less expensive hitches and due to tow characteristics of the trailer, underrated tires, and a variety of other factors haven't been able to get a satisfactory tow experience. For those folks I'd say congratulations.. you must've had something there that requires the more expensive hitch. For everyone else I would disagree with but you're free to spend your money in the way you see fit. Wouldn't be my choice.

Which brings me back to the first paragraph. You could try buying a better quality hitch used and see how you do. If it works and you still want a new one you could always sell it and get back what you spent. If it doesn't work and you want to try one of the other less expensive hitches until.you find one that works the same logic could be applied.

[Tripdoc6]

Thank you for the reply. What weight setup would you recommend? Max load of the Aurora 28bhs is 7600 I believe and i have heard if you go with a higher rated WDH it could hurt instead be better. Is a 10k wdh setup ok or would 12k be preferred?

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Tripdoc6

Thank you for the reply. What weight setup would you recommend? Max load of the Aurora 28bhs is 7600 I believe and i have heard if you go with a higher rated WDH it could hurt instead be better. Is a 10k wdh setup ok or would 12k be preferred?

I have the 10k Fastway E2 setup with a similar sized and weight trailer.

After I bought the trailer I used my Escalade ESV to put the camper and did fine. I didn't have any issues with sway at all. I stopped pulling with that vehicle when I decided it was just too much for the drivetrain . I now pull the same trailer with my F350 Dually using the same hitch and it does great.

[67L48]

Your trailer has a fictional dry weight of 6,400 lbs and GVWR of 7,600 lbs. Between factory options, dealer options, food, cookware, clothes, batteries, and other sundries, you'll easily load up that 1,200 lbs. So, count on rolling down the highway at 7,600 lbs.

Figure 12-15% on your hitch. So, 900 - 1,150 lbs on your hitch. Therefore, I agree with the dealer that 1,200 lb bars would be best (or whatever the next step up from the common 1,000 lb rating is for a particular brand).

While I only have experience with one brand, my reading here leads me to believe that the top few brands are like Ford, Chevy, Ram, etc. All are good. Pick the one you like or that is convenient to buy or that is cheaper in your area. I have the Equal-I-Zer 4-pt and really like it. It's not clear to me that it's any better than Blue Ox, e.g., but it works great. It's also easy to set up.

I'd figure around $600 for a good WDH with anti-sway. And, with the 32' trailer, the anti-sway is maybe even more important than the WD. If your dealer is quoting $1,100, then he should be ashamed.

[Boomerweps]

Was the dealer quote including adding a trailer brake controller? If you didn't have a factory one? First dealer I spoke to pushed to sell a WDH and controller, adding $1200 to the purchase. I installed my own purchased brake controller for under $150 in parts and the second dealer sold me a used WDH for $250 and set it up! This was on a Ford Explorer.
To me, most WDH load bars are recommended for a weight range. Assuming your GTWR is close to your actual ready to tow weight, figure max tongue weight at 15% of that. Then buy a hitch rated to handle that, 1000 or 1200. If the bars are a little stronger than needed, the WDH setup adjustments will allow for that.
I NEEDED a WDH with the Explorer. I still use it with the F150 for sway control and just that locked together going down the highway driving feel. I've towed with and without the WDH with the same truck and TT. I will continue to use the WDH for normal towing.

[Swaggler]

You can buy the 12,000 lb. Equalizer hitch direct for $785 plus $25 for the hitch ball if you install it yourself. I don’t know what they charge for shipping on that. https://www.equalizerhitch.com/store/hitches
I’ve been pulling a 6,500 lb. trailer with a 10,000 lb. Equalizer hitch (1,000 lb. bars) for 6 years now without any issues. We’re getting ready to swap it over to our new 9,000 lb. (max) trailer this year. I just ordered new hardware from Equalizer for the swap, but I could probably just re-use the same hardware on the new trailer.

[Thurman]

Someone on the classifieds has a Blue Ox system for sale $400

[Tripdoc6]

Thank you for all the replys. They quoted me 1200 minus 10% because I just bought TT. I am not sure if they included brake but I dont think so and my 2500 has factory one installed anyway. I plan on giving them a call back and exactly finding out about that setup thanks to the information in replys.

[67L48]

Literally, the MSRP of that hitch is $785. So, the absolute most a dealership should ever charge is that amount. Maybe they throw in an additional hour of labor at ~$100 to set it up? But, $1,200? What a racket! I mean, if you can get away with charging that amount, then I suppose go ahead an do it. But, that's highway robbery and short-run sales strategy.

Most places would sell this to a stranger off the street for around $650. Most dealerships would sell this to a customer who just bought an RV for around $550 - $650.

In Feb 2018, my dealership charged me $500, included the ball, and included the setup (which they did very well). Prices have gone up in the past 2 years, but it should be directional to that number.

[llr]

Any of the hitches listed should be good. I like the Blue Ox Sway pro. A step above the 1k bars would be good.

If you are thinking the having the dealer install it is worth a higher price, I wouldn't count on it as they will probably not get the setup correct. Read the manuals and figure out how to do it yourself so you can make adjustments or find a good independent trailer shop to help.

[Martsing]

I had the dealer throw in a 10,000lb E4 hitch when I bought the camper (below). I think that it is right at the max for the hitch itself but it seems to work great. I believe the hitch was about $600 3 years ago. I did have the dealer set up the hitch.... mistake. It took me a few weeks to figure out that they were WAY off. Install it yourself and learn how it works as you do it.

Have fun!

Marty

[Ejs4029]

Look at the Husky CenterLine TS....Very affordable for $265.60


https://www.rvautoparts.com/32218-Hu...yABEgLyhPD_BwE

[bikendan]

Your Aurora is a brand new line for FR. You're probably the very first member here to own one.
The dealer is ripping you off on that Equal-i-zer price.
There are plenty of places selling it cheaper. Check RVW's prices on the 4pt Equal-i-zer. They have free shipping.

[BigH]

A WDH is required at a certain weight as found during testing under SAE J2807. It is not a magic device. It is designed to return some of the weight back to the front tires that is being leveraged off by the trailer tongue weight.

If your truck is anything other than a regular cab you don't need a WDH until at least 1500lbs tongue weight...if you have a long wheel base its not required at all up to the maximum 2000lbs allowed on the tongue. -Per your owners manual in 4x4 trim as tested under SAE J2807.

I pull a trailer that is more than 2000lbs heavier, a foot taller and about the same length with a 2017 double cab/long box/gasser and I don't use a WDH. It performs perfectly with no sway at any speed with 1500lbs on the tongue.

Sway is an entirely different matter and should be controlled by loading the weight on the trailer correctly. There was some photos around here not that long ago with a new, empty trailer overturned in the ditch...sway control isn't a lifesaver...Proper loading is the answer.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w9Dgxe584Ss

I would load your trailer up tongue heavy and test it out...

Good luck.

[Tripdoc6]

I want to thank you all again for the information. I am going with the equalizer and went to a different dealer alittle further away but $550 less. I look forward to getting first TT out this spring.