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Old 07-31-2020, 11:45 AM   #21
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Coolant has been changed 3Y5M / 41K miles ago.
Cooling stack has been cleaned
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Old 07-31-2020, 11:49 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mandog View Post
GM has an issue with the fan clutches anyway. Change it with a new A/C delco towing clutch you won’t be sorry.


What is a towing clutch a heavy or severe duty clutch? Do you mean the 2500HD’s don’t already have this type of clutch?
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:03 PM   #23
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I vote fan clutch !
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:18 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
What is a towing clutch a heavy or severe duty clutch? Do you mean the 2500HD’s don’t already have this type of clutch?
Of course they do.......
And honestly, I have found very few after market products for the GM HDs that even approach the OEM parts performance. The one exception is that I tell every Duramax owner to invest in a FASS lift pump. Why Duramax won't use them is beyond me.
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:40 PM   #25
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Of course they do.......
And honestly, I have found very few after market products for the GM HDs that even approach the OEM parts performance. The one exception is that I tell every Duramax owner to invest in a FASS lift pump. Why Duramax won't use them is beyond me.
I may want to mention this to my brother. Did you have any symptoms that you were correcting? He has a 2008.
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Old 07-31-2020, 12:55 PM   #26
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I may want to mention this to my brother. Did you have any symptoms that you were correcting? He has a 2008.
I got tired of replacing/rebuilding the fuel filter body (with manual prime/pump) which will start leaking and introduce air into the fuel system, which will cause starting problems at the most inopportune times. The FASS system also relieves how much work the injector pump does, as now it is not solely responsible for pulling the fuel all the way from the tank.
It also dramatically increases pedal response as there is always ample fuel available.
It is probably the best mod on any Duramax. There are five Duramax in my extended family, and we all have the Fass lift pumps. I have the 95gph model, the rest have the 165gph.
No more fuel supply related problems.
Oh, and the system takes air/water out of the fuel and is a much improved filtering system.
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Old 07-31-2020, 01:06 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
I got tired of replacing/rebuilding the fuel filter body (with manual prime/pump) which will start leaking and introduce air into the fuel system, which will cause starting problems at the most inopportune times. The FASS system also relieves how much work the injector pump does, as now it is not solely responsible for pulling the fuel all the way from the tank.
It also dramatically increases pedal response as there is always ample fuel available.
It is probably the best mod on any Duramax. There are five Duramax in my extended family, and we all have the Fass lift pumps. I have the 95gph model, the rest have the 165gph.
No more fuel supply related problems.
Oh, and the system takes air/water out of the fuel and is a much improved filtering system.
Thanks
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Old 07-31-2020, 03:10 PM   #28
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GM fan clutch $279.24
NAPA -Severe Duty $92.49
Is there really that much difference in these? That is worth $186.75 more?
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Old 07-31-2020, 03:47 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
GM fan clutch $279.24
NAPA -Severe Duty $92.49
Is there really that much difference in these? That is worth $186.75 more?
Go to the Duramax forum and search on this, lots of info there.
For my truck, on a part I might replace once, I just decided to not take chances on important items. So I will decide on a part number (usually OEM) and shop for a good price.
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Old 07-31-2020, 04:50 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
GM fan clutch $279.24
NAPA -Severe Duty $92.49
Is there really that much difference in these? That is worth $186.75 more?
No . First fan clutch factory unit went out about 80- 90 thousand miles . replace with a auto zone fan clutch last about the same Replaced that one at just over 190,000 Good thing is the Auto Zone fan clutch has a lifetime warranty so not extra cost just my time to replace . it's also a good time to replace the belts
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Old 07-31-2020, 04:55 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
GM fan clutch $279.24
NAPA -Severe Duty $92.49
Is there really that much difference in these? That is worth $186.75 more?
The GM price looks like a dealer price, and it's more than likely an AC-Delco with a big mark-up. You can probably find the AC-Delco at a local jobber for around $110-$115.

Nothing wrong with the NAPA version, though.

Also, they are a bear to remove/install if you don't have the right tools.
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Old 07-31-2020, 05:43 PM   #32
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I wold only use an OEM fan clutch. Been there done that with a fan clutch in the past. You do not want that thing to fail when you are on a long trip. Worth the extra money.
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Old 08-07-2020, 01:55 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
Yes
80C + 85C
= 180F+ 185F
Your math is slightly off. degF=(degC*9/5)+32 In your case, 80C = 176F, and 85C = 185F

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Old 08-08-2020, 05:35 PM   #34
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My Error not Perfect!
I should have stated:
Thermostats call for 180/185
Stampings on tStat 80/85
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Old 08-08-2020, 05:40 PM   #35
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Correction:!
82/85
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Old 08-13-2020, 07:13 PM   #36
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Normal, don't fight it!

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Originally Posted by mfMcFroggierPod View Post
2500 Duramax LMM / towing 9,000#
OAT80-85*F
The slightest grade truck temp goes up to 225*
Both indicated by dash gauge and edge monitor.
Fan clutch only started to engage at 232*F+
I took the thermostats out and put in hot water to test them.
Ratings: 180 + 185*F
They opened at 195 + 200*F
Great problem found...
I got new tstats and tested the same way.
They opened at 190 + 195*F
Poor Accuracy!
Yes, this is the way they work. I do not see where you have a problem. It is hard to fight what the engineers have programmed into your computers.
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:25 PM   #37
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I know not apples to apples but my Ram regularly hits 220 with 7k Tt and 95-100 degrees air temperatures. Oil as high as 235-240 but transmission temperature runs 168-170. Drop a gear and slow down and your egt’s will go way down and lower the temperature.
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Old 08-13-2020, 09:53 PM   #38
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I had a 2006 LTZ that started running hot. I changed both thermostats which didn't help. I then read a lot about splitting the radiators and using a pressure washer to clean out any debris in between the radiator and the intercooler. I took the plastic top off and looked down in between the two radiators and there was a lot of build up of leaves, bugs and other stuff. I used a pressure washer and washed it all out and through the fins of the radiator and intercooler. I also changed the fan clutch and it was all better. Check between the two radiators.
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Old 08-14-2020, 06:17 AM   #39
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Bullet Proof Diesel sells an aftermarket coolant filter. I put one on my Superduty, and I can't believe the crap that comes out of that filter after a year. The 6.0 has issues, and my oil temps get up to 240 on a hot day, even with a 5000 lb trailer. I use synthetic oil only, partly because it doesn't break down at that temperature.
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Old 08-14-2020, 07:34 AM   #40
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What does the GM SERVICE say the temp. specs. are??? Newer trucks run hotter to be more efficient. What load??
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