Towing the maximum weight

[Too Tall]

Just my opinion. Take the back roads and keep speed 50 mph or under. Over 50 is where wind effect starts to really multiply exponentially. Lock your transmission in a gear that keeps the RPMs up and doesn't hunt back and forth at every overpass. make sure whatever gear you choose has a TQ lock and stays in it. Air up all tires, tow vehicle and camper to maximum pressure of the side of the tire.

[Sammici]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

How is towing at maximum not responsible? What is the maximum number there for, then? My owner's manual says do not tow over this weight. Nowhere does it say "NOTE: Only 80% of this weight, however, is responsible." That's like saying if the speed limit on the highway is set at 55 mph then it's not responsible to go 55 mph. It's only responsible to say up to 50 mph. 50-55 mph is allowed, sure, but not responsible. Or putting 5 gallons of gasoline in a 5 gallon gasoline can. What's responsible there? 4.8 gallons? 4.8 to 5.0 is allowed but not responsible?

You are correct

[Springerdad]

Originally Posted by Too Tall

Just my opinion. Take the back roads and keep speed 50 mph or under. Over 50 is where wind effect starts to really multiply exponentially. Lock your transmission in a gear that keeps the RPMs up and doesn't hunt back and forth at every overpass. make sure whatever gear you choose has a TQ lock and stays in it. Air up all tires, tow vehicle and camper to maximum pressure of the side of the tire.

Good advice. From my reading that TQ locks in early, like 12 mph or so. Pulling that weight she may experience more of the CVT 'drone' than usual. My experience with a Nissan Altima left me not wishing to have a CVT. But, that's just me.

[eye95]

Originally Posted by Too Tall

Just my opinion. Take the back roads and keep speed 50 mph or under. Over 50 is where wind effect starts to really multiply exponentially. Lock your transmission in a gear that keeps the RPMs up and doesn't hunt back and forth at every overpass. make sure whatever gear you choose has a TQ lock and stays in it. Air up all tires, tow vehicle and camper to maximum pressure of the side of the tire.

Watch out for back roads. I am confident that interstates are adequate for RVs. Not so all back roads. Some are inadequate for RVs—and you may not find out until you get there.

If you are going to use back roads, plan your route carefully.

[eye95]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

How is towing at maximum not responsible? What is the maximum number there for, then? My owner's manual says do not tow over this weight. Nowhere does it say "NOTE: Only 80% of this weight, however, is responsible." That's like saying if the speed limit on the highway is set at 55 mph then it's not responsible to go 55 mph. It's only responsible to say up to 50 mph. 50-55 mph is allowed, sure, but not responsible. Or putting 5 gallons of gasoline in a 5 gallon gasoline can. What's responsible there? 4.8 gallons? 4.8 to 5.0 is allowed but not responsible?

Exactly right. *I* choose to stay will within maximums, but that is on *me*. I will tell anyone going over maximums that they are making a mistake.

But, at or below the max, the manufacturer is saying that you are safe.

[Sammici]

Originally Posted by eye95

Exactly right. *I* choose to stay will within maximums, but that is on *me*. I will tell anyone going over maximums that they are making a mistake.



But, at or below the max, the manufacturer is saying that you are safe.

The only 80% rule I know is when filling a propane tank.

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

I must respectfully disagree with you. I did do the homework. I evaluated several trailers and picked the largest one that was still within the towing capacity of the vehicle taking into account the potential passenger and cargo weight expectations. It just happens to be very near the maximum towing capacity specified. The maximum specified is the maximum specified for a reason. It the the maximum weight that can be SAFELY towed with the vehicle. You have to remember, the maximum weight specified by the manufacturer already has a built-in safety factor. Standard QA practices call for systems to be designed to operate satisfactorily at 120-125% of rated capacities to minimize potential failures if those systems are operated at 100% of rated capacities. Therefore it is completely unnecessary to add in your own 80% safety margin on top of the safety margin that was already included by the manufacturer when they specified their weight limits.

Agree with your statement 100%


The armchair quarter-backs will likely disagree

[IDguy]

Originally Posted by RVmomoftwins

Oh I know very well the steep drops of these hills from the roadside. I’ve driven this path many times. Just not with a rv. But I do have electric trailer brakes. Hope that it’ll help

You need to worry more about the downs than the ups. You need to learn to make minimal use of brakes on downhills. Start and keep a low speed on downs. Use your engine to control speed. Watch your tach but do not worry about 4-5000 rpm. Downshift as needed. If you have tow haul mode use it. You can jab brakes to cause downshift but DO NOT RIDE YOUR BRAKES ON THE DOWNS!

I drive over real mountain passes (9-10,000 ft.) on every trip for 50 years and the ones that get in trouble do not understand this.

[Jimhinkle]

There is much discussion on how much weight you can tow. Safety is the most important in my humble opinion, emergency handling is the key factor in the equation. Years ago we had folks we know that were towing a trailer which was at the top of their max weight (but below the max) that lost control in rain in the mountains and the trailer overtook the tow vehicle and they never came home. There could have been many factors involved, I do not know, but not having enough tow vehicle to handle what your pulling in an emergency is a major one. Personally I believe in over doing it for the tow vehicle. That is not to say we can not have a problem certainly, but it makes me comfortable. We tow with a 1 ton dually and have since 1996 but we also travel extensively. We recently purchased a new Coachman 5th wheel and when the dealer looked at our truck made a comment that "we had way more truck than we need, this trailer could be pulled with a 1/2 ton pickup". Well, he was probably right as you can pull about anything but can you pull it safely anywhere anytime. So that is my two bits, be safe.

[Too Tall]

Originally Posted by eye95

Watch out for back roads. I am confident that interstates are adequate for RVs. Not so all back roads. Some are inadequate for RVs—and you may not find out until you get there.

If you are going to use back roads, plan your route carefully.

50 MPH on the interstate is probably more hazardous than anything you'll encounter on the back roads, ha

[eye95]

Originally Posted by Too Tall

50 MPH on the interstate is probably more hazardous than anything you'll encounter on the back roads, ha

I don’t know about that:

11 FOOT 8 - The Canopener Bridge

[Too Tall]

Originally Posted by eye95

I don’t know about that:

11 FOOT 8 - The Canopener Bridge

That's funny, I wonder how many times that thing has been hit. His TT will clear 11' 8" however but I get your point.

[moose074]

Originally Posted by Springerdad

Perhaps so. But think about the white knuckle stories on this site that are told often enough by people who are over CCC and/or combined weight.

White knuckles is subjective, some people have an 80% safety margin, I respect these view points. I also endorse bigger truck is better ( especially when one is looking for a new tow vehicle). However I’m a firm believer that the “Tire and Load “ is a strong suggestion. I don’t see a federal law referenced on the sticker and it has the original tires on the sticker It’s at least partially based on the tires at the time it leaves the factory.
A video on payload was posted on another thread. It was titled can you guess the payload. At one point in the video he is comparing near identical trucks. Even he was surprised at the huge difference in payload for no obvious reason. Another reason I am skeptical of the payload sticker is that according to some previous “ hot shot drivers “ that responded to a thread ( how do commercial drivers get away with it) yes, I know doesn’t make it true, commercial drivers weight is based on registration not payload sticker. If you watch their are plenty of over payload trucks that are required to go thru DOT weigh stations .

In the case of the OP I believe if she is understanding of what to expect in performance and handling. She will be better prepared to make the trip. Scaring her with gloom and doom is not a helpful solution.

[corn18]

Originally Posted by moose074

White knuckles is subjective, some people have an 80% safety margin, I respect these view points. I also endorse bigger truck is better ( especially when one is looking for a new tow vehicle). However I’m a firm believer that the “Tire and Load “ is a strong suggestion. I don’t see a federal law referenced on the sticker and it has the original tires on the sticker It’s at least partially based on the tires at the time it leaves the factory.
A video on payload was posted on another thread. It was titled can you guess the payload. At one point in the video he is comparing near identical trucks. Even he was surprised at the huge difference in payload for no obvious reason. Another reason I am skeptical of the payload sticker is that according to some previous “ hot shot drivers “ that responded to a thread ( how do commercial drivers get away with it) yes, I know doesn’t make it true, commercial drivers weight is based on registration not payload sticker. If you watch their are plenty of over payload trucks that are required to go thru DOT weigh stations .

In the case of the OP I believe if she is understanding of what to expect in performance and handling. She will be better prepared to make the trip. Scaring her with gloom and doom is not a helpful solution.Attachment 234490

This is exactly the thought process I used to tow a 4,200 pop up behind an overloaded mini van without trailer brakes. It worked so it was ok.

[Ruggybuggy]

Originally Posted by Trawlerphil

Sometimes it makes sense to try it and see if you are comfortable towing if you've already got everything purchased. Moms generally know in their gut if something is borderline dangerous, and sometimes you'll find folks with good intentions who are "Debbie Downers" if all the numbers don't fit perfectly. I can't tell you how many times I've been told my Tundra won't tow a 9,000 lb 5er, but that was just under 37,000 miles ago, and having traversed all of the mountain ranges in the country, I'm pretty happy with both the 5er and the truck.

What 5th wheel do you have? I also have a Tundra and want to upgrade from my TT.

[Jhenson2211]

That vehicle is totally unsuitable to pull a camper thru mountainous terrain, regardless of what the tow ratings/limits say on the sticker. What most people don’t account for when towing campers is the massive wind resistance or “air brake” effect. Imagine towing a flat wall behind your vehicle...the force of the wind pushing back on you while driving will wear anything less than a well-spec’d half-ton pickup truck completely out very quickly. Also the brakes will be overworked extensively. If you do tow with your current vehicle tho, or even if you get another pickup truck, remember to SLOW DOWN. You’re not going to be able to run 70-80 mph uphill with a camper in tow. You’ll just be wasting a ton of fuel and setting yourself up for a long stint broke down beside the road. Keep it slow and steady... 60-65 mph and don’t use cruise control, especially thru the mountains.

[Ruggybuggy]

I know a guy that tows a Jayco 5th wheel with a pin weight around 1200lbs and he does just fine and tows in the mountains. As far as air resistance, he's actually getting very similar mpg as I am pulling my Coachman 204RD. Not really worries about the Tundra brakes. Toyota uses very large diameter rotors and four piston calipers up front. Compared to my previous Silverdao which only uses a two piston caliper and smaller front rotors and the payload was actually higher than the Tundra.

[67L48]

Originally Posted by Ruggybuggy

I know a guy that tows a Jayco 5th wheel with a pin weight around 1200lbs [...]

Seems unlikely to me.

The lightest Jayco 5er has a dry weight of 7,775 and a dry pin weight of 1,405 lbs. So, rolling down the road, it's going to weigh at least 9,000 lbs with a pin of at leat 1,600 lbs.

A pin weight of 1,200 lbs would suggest a 5er with a fully loaded weight of 6,000 - 6,800 lbs. That's not a Jayco. Not even a decade old ones.

[jwfrede]

Originally Posted by 67L48

Seems unlikely to me.

The lightest Jayco 5er has a dry weight of 7,775 and a dry pin weight of 1,405 lbs. So, rolling down the road, it's going to weigh at least 9,000 lbs with a pin of at leat 1,600 lbs.

A pin weight of 1,200 lbs would suggest a 5er with a fully loaded weight of 6,000 - 6,800 lbs. That's not a Jayco. Not even a decade old ones.

That's a pin weight of 18%, sounds high. I always hear about 10-12% as desired number on this forum.

Pin weight is measured in a static condition. The hitch weight limit and cargo limits account for movement of the vehicle including going up and down hills. I don't think there is a need to add an additional factor for the movement. I would assume the automotive engineers did their homework after decades of designs.

[Ruggybuggy]

Pin weight of 1050lbs.

https://www.rvusa.com/rv-guide/2012-...35-rbs-tr11103