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Old 04-21-2019, 10:53 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Wolfman44 View Post
Thanks everyone for all the replies. My camper is actually a 2012 Forest River Wildwood X-Lite 181BHXL (22.6’). My Traverse does not have the tow package so is rated to pull 2,000 pounds. It needs the tow package to get it to 5,000 pounds. The first thing I will do is have the bigger radiator installed. I already installed a heavy duty hitch & the wiring harness with relays & fuses. I also have WDH with sway bar. We have three State Parks within 30 miles so not planning to pull it cross country.
Sorry to be another bearer of bad news...but...

Nothing you can do to your Traverse will make it 5000 pounds capable.

It's too late for your current vehicle...should have come from the factory with the tow package.

Time to look for a capable tow vehicle.
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Old 04-21-2019, 10:59 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by Wolfman44 View Post
Thanks everyone for all the replies. My camper is actually a 2012 Forest River Wildwood X-Lite 181BHXL (22.6’). My Traverse does not have the tow package so is rated to pull 2,000 pounds. It needs the tow package to get it to 5,000 pounds. The first thing I will do is have the bigger radiator installed. I already installed a heavy duty hitch & the wiring harness with relays & fuses. I also have WDH with sway bar. We have three State Parks within 30 miles so not planning to pull it cross country.
Wolfman, did you install a brake controller? If not, you're towing illegally.
I won't address whether the TT is too much for the Traverse. My sister has a Traverse and I would never tow a full size TT with it.
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Old 04-21-2019, 11:35 AM   #23
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OP didn't specify year of Traverse, but here's the low-down on the 2017 model. I imagine all years are about the same. Two RPO's for towing and not available separately. Base model has no towing option.


2017 Chevrolet Traverse Towing | GM Authority
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Old 04-21-2019, 01:28 PM   #24
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I've been down the road you're going.

Was sold what the PO said was an "under 6k trailer" that I was going to tow with my 7800lb - capable 2010 Escalade. I figured.. what the heck I have at least 1800 lbs to spare. Towing home for the first time I had my first thoughts that it was too much as the temp rose on the tranny and the engine past normal.

We took it on our first camping trip and on our way home I noticed some odd behavior which landed me in the service shop. $2600 and a new tranny later I was on my way again. Thankfully, it was covered under my power train warranty. After that I began my quest to get my Escalade to tow the trailer easily. Under advise, I started the upgrades. New tranny cooler was the first followed by upgraded brakes, new shocks, and radiator flush. Everyone told me that I was pushing it but would be ok. Then I found the original weight sticker in the camper.. my "under 6k trailer" went to 6800lbs. Then after researching a bit I realized I was going off of the unloaded weights.. a trip to the scales showed me I was closer to 7400lbs.

I tried towing several more times that year but most of the time I was sweating bullets as I watched the temperature rise. I think it was the trip to Florida that finally did me in. I was cruising at about 60 and stopping every two hours for gas, freaked out that the engine was gonna blow on mostly flat interstate.

I told myself "no more" and let the family know that we either need to get a different tow vehicle or a different camper. Well, 6 months later I began my quest. Found that the crew cab F250/350 from '03-07 was probably my best bet due to the large comfortable cab and to go Diesel because they are capable of really high miles and they do well with a load. Today, I get 12-14 mpg towing and don't have a worry in the world as the truck is an absolute beast. I'll gladly agree it's overkill but after going through what I did I'm more than happy with it.

Ended up with a nice 2-owner F350 King Ranch Crew Cab LWB Dually. After the expense of bulletproofing, it'll be with us for a long time.
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Old 04-21-2019, 05:04 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by 007matman View Post
I've been down the road you're going.

Was sold what the PO said was an "under 6k trailer" that I was going to tow with my 7800lb - capable 2010 Escalade. I figured.. what the heck I have at least 1800 lbs to spare. Towing home for the first time I had my first thoughts that it was too much as the temp rose on the tranny and the engine past normal.

We took it on our first camping trip and on our way home I noticed some odd behavior which landed me in the service shop. $2600 and a new tranny later I was on my way again. Thankfully, it was covered under my power train warranty. After that I began my quest to get my Escalade to tow the trailer easily. Under advise, I started the upgrades. New tranny cooler was the first followed by upgraded brakes, new shocks, and radiator flush. Everyone told me that I was pushing it but would be ok. Then I found the original weight sticker in the camper.. my "under 6k trailer" went to 6800lbs. Then after researching a bit I realized I was going off of the unloaded weights.. a trip to the scales showed me I was closer to 7400lbs.

I tried towing several more times that year but most of the time I was sweating bullets as I watched the temperature rise. I think it was the trip to Florida that finally did me in. I was cruising at about 60 and stopping every two hours for gas, freaked out that the engine was gonna blow on mostly flat interstate.

I told myself "no more" and let the family know that we either need to get a different tow vehicle or a different camper. Well, 6 months later I began my quest. Found that the crew cab F250/350 from '03-07 was probably my best bet due to the large comfortable cab and to go Diesel because they are capable of really high miles and they do well with a load. Today, I get 12-14 mpg towing and don't have a worry in the world as the truck is an absolute beast. I'll gladly agree it's overkill but after going through what I did I'm more than happy with it.

Ended up with a nice 2-owner F350 King Ranch Crew Cab LWB Dually. After the expense of bulletproofing, it'll be with us for a long time.
Overkill is better than underkill which may kill you, your family, or innocent people on the roads.
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Old 04-21-2019, 10:15 PM   #26
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You already towed it home meaning you own it why buy another trailer. I do suggest weight disruption and sway control. Stay with the shorter trips and use manual shifting if you an handle the way it tows then venture further if it handles unsavory then start looking for alternative solutions
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Old 04-22-2019, 09:20 AM   #27
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I think you have heard it pretty clearly... you have too much camper for your vehicle.
That said, most of us have been there and are speaking from our own bad experiences. The "you'll be ok" approach is a slippery slope. Myself and my experience- if you are a seasonal camper or traveling VERY locally without many hills, I'd probably do it anyway. However, for anything beyond those situations you just won't be able to enjoy it... trust me, a big camper without enough tow vehicle is ZERO fun and exhausting.

What I wish I had seen more comments about is your dealer. This falls on THEIR shoulders! There is no way a reputable dealer should have considered selling you this camper without talking to you about your tow vehicle and what it may need for upgrades. Too often we (here in the forum) see dealers selling campers based on tow ratings and dry weights- which are not accurate pictures of what the vehicles, both tow and trailer, are when put together.

I would encourage you to go back to this dealer- and speak calmly, at least at first, about them working with you to get some of these things taken care of. A HIGH quality WDH, a brake controller installed, trailer wiring, possibly SUMO Springs (a personal fav). If they aren't willing to work with you and eat some of the costs for overselling you then start writing reviews online, everywhere you can think of. Definitely contact the BBB to file a complaint. Heck you could even contact the manufacturers they represent and explain how the dealer is over selling their products and creating dangerous situations.

The costs you will put in to upgrades will be high, and if you are able to consider upgrading to a different vehicle I would encourage you to do it. Think of it this way; your current monthly payment plus all the upfront costs for upgrading OR a new (to you) vehicle with the upgrade money put toward a down payment- you could end up with a lower payment than you currently have! (A half-ton should be fine for your current camper.)

In the end- many of us have been there. You will figure this out and have great memories with your family!
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Old 04-23-2019, 10:03 AM   #28
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X2 ^ plus a traverse is a front wheel drive vehicle which only adds to the problem. Your drive traction, steering and braking are currently all on the front wheels and they are less than firmly on the ground with this set up. I’m surprised if you’re not popping wheelies. Even with a WDH, a FWD traverse Transmission will be eaten alive in this scenario imho.
They do make a Traverse with AWD.
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Old 04-23-2019, 02:11 PM   #29
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They do make a Traverse with AWD.
But of course it is a FWD based type of AWD, so there’s a system not designed to tow this type of trailer, as well as the steering and braking still being in the front and no brake controller . The point is that the trailer is driving everything forward with compromised steering, breaking and traction. I would say no thanks to this type of loss of control for my family’s safety and the safety of those drivers around me (and buildings, and fences, etc)
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:05 PM   #30
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I tow a 183 with a 2010 Traverse. Pulls ok but we limit our trips to certain areas till we get a more capable TV. We have the tow pack on ours and would never consider towing without it. The tow pack is not just a radiator upgrade. It’s a whole system starting with the computer then trans module to wiring and hitch setup, cooler lines and all that stuff. You will cook that tranny and other things without the proper setup. I have a 5200lbs tow capacity but a combined 10250. We are a family of 5 so we have to travel light. We are under weight but not a huge buffer. Usually around 9700-9900# So we are up there. Now if our oldest doesn’t go that helps with weight as well. I’ve done my math and weigh everything once loaded. Without that tow pack there is no way I would tow anything larger than a 10-12’ pop up. You are putting yourself and family at risk and others on the road. Not to mention your vehicle is going to suffer as well. Good luck and I hope you make a informed decision!
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:17 PM   #31
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I think Y'all are plumb crazy towing that much with a Traverse but to each his own.

I'll be the guy not hanging around you when I see you on the interstate.

Be safe out there.
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:29 PM   #32
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First, you illegally towed a trailer with electric brakes because you had no brake controller.
Based on what?

Not all states require a brake controller.

Lots of boats and enclosed trailers out there that don’t even come with trailer brakes.

Should they? Probably, but please don’t make blanket statements like this as it is not factual.
The OP is clearly looking to improve the situation and most likely already knows that a controller is in order.
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:45 PM   #33
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Based on what?

Not all states require a brake controller.

Lots of boats and enclosed trailers out there that don’t even come with trailer brakes.

Should they? Probably, but please don’t make blanket statements like this as it is not factual.
The OP is clearly looking to improve the situation and most likely already knows that a controller is in order.
If the trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you're required to have brake controller.
But lighter weight trailers under a certain weight, are not required to have electric brakes, so no brake controller required.
The OP knowingly towed a full height TT(not a popup) well above the required weight for electric brakes, with a very marginal tow vehicle.
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:40 PM   #34
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Yep good thing we all read all the post and don’t assume. Oh wait we don’t or we would have read he has already installed the wiring harness. As posted by another contributor the towing package for a 2017 includes heavy duty cooling system and a trailer hitch. Op has installed the hitch and WD hitch with sway returning weight to the front tires. I won’t pretend to know his payload or tow capacity. However he made it home not sure how far of a drive he didn’t state and since he is asking about ways to make the experience better. It is safe to assume he didn’t wreck. I don’t like to be rude or flippant but the only person who knows how his trl and TV rides is the op. His 281 hp and 261 torque would’ve been the neighbors envy in a 3/4 ton from late 80,s early 90’s. So let wolfman make his trips to the local state parks in peace and enjoy his camping. He appears smart enough that if it doesn’t work as set up then he can decide. Have a blessed night
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Old 04-24-2019, 08:40 PM   #35
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I have the feeling the OP purchased the trailer from a previous owner or a used vehicle dealer and not a rv dealership. Since OP's last reply was 4 days ago I don't think we will know the whole story.
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:37 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
If the trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you're required to have brake controller.
But lighter weight trailers under a certain weight, are not required to have electric brakes, so no brake controller required.
The OP knowingly towed a full height TT(not a popup) well above the required weight for electric brakes, with a very marginal tow vehicle.
False information.

Many states do not require trailer brakes. So even if equipped you are not required to use them..

Safe, NO but legal yes
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Old 04-25-2019, 06:57 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by bikendan View Post
If the trailer is equipped with electric brakes, you're required to have brake controller.
But lighter weight trailers under a certain weight, are not required to have electric brakes, so no brake controller required.
The OP knowingly towed a full height TT(not a popup) well above the required weight for electric brakes, with a very marginal tow vehicle.
Please point out the post where the OP stated he knowingly towed the trailer without a brake controller. If they stated this, I missed it.
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:29 AM   #38
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I think by the fact he said he only installed a hitch and was asking what else he needed to add to make it capable of hauling the camper it's a pretty safe bet he didn't.

However, wierder things have happened...
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Old 04-25-2019, 07:52 AM   #39
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We purchased a 2012 23’ Wildwood X-Lite last fall & pulled it home with our Chevy Traverse after installing a hitch. Our Traverse does not have a tow package. The only thing that concerned me was the temperature gauge, that usually runs at 210 degrees, was running a notch above that. Would a cooler thermostat remedy this? Also, do I need to have a transmission cooler installed? Also, is it necessary to use an anti-sway bar or weight distribution chains while towing?
My temperature gauge stays the same whether I am towing or not; maybe a very small difference in temperature would be OK, not sure. But you need to not only know what your tow capacity is, you also need to know what your tongue weight capacity is for that vehicle to be sure you are towing safely. I always use the rule of thumb to only tow trailers that leave at least 1,000 pounds of towing capacity available on my tow vehicle and at least 10% of tongue weight capacity available on my tow vehicle.

We have had very large trailers and over the years downsized into smaller and smaller ones. The one we have now is 23' and about 6,200 lbs loaded. Whether large or small, I ALWAYS use a WDH - my 4-point Equalizer has moved from trailer to trailer and even with a small rig, I would never tow without one. I've had one dealer tell me that what I use is "overkill" for my rig but I would sure want to have that added sense of security to handle all road conditions with confidence.
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Old 04-25-2019, 08:11 AM   #40
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False information.

Many states do not require trailer brakes. So even if equipped you are not required to use them..

Safe, NO but legal yes
Most states require trailer brakes for weights of 3000# or more. Nebraska, where the OP lives is one of those states. In the 2 posts he made the OP never states he installed a brake controller. 3 states have 1500# as the minimum. Kentucky is the only state that does not specifically require brakes on many passenger car trailers though they are required to be able to stop in a certain distance. See https://drivinglaws.aaa.com/tag/trailer-brakes/ for more information.
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