Trailer "bouncy" on rough roads.

[OldCoot]

If it's only the trailer bouncing you can add shocks to the trailer. I did and it stopped the bouncing on our 5er and made the ride in the truck much smoother also.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

If it's only the trailer bouncing you can add shocks to the trailer. I did and it stopped the bouncing on our 5er and made the ride in the truck much smoother also.

I haven't seen them for torsion axles. Who makes that?

[ronnieapple]

I just now got back from towing my trailer between Tulsa and Enid. A 10 mile section of the highway (a toll road) bounces like crazy. I just slowed down until I had passed that section. I have a center line wd hitch. Good luck, and enjoy the scenery!

[doc73]

Originally Posted by Lins

I haven't seen them for torsion axles. Who makes that?

My guess being it is from oc is home brew... He is kinda handy like that.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Lins

I haven't seen them for torsion axles. Who makes that?

I designed and built them myself. I have the plans for a simpler design I will email to anyone interested.

[thankyou]

I learned a very expensive lesson about rough roads several years ago. I have some friends who lived in western Kansas, and would often stop at their place going to or from Colorado. They lived twenty some miles off I70 in a quite pretty area around Colby. The night skies were amazing. Anyway, I was headed to their place and took the dirt road at the speed I had in the past, but it had rained and the ruts were deep. After I got there, I noticed water coming out of the camper and saw that the fresh water drain cap was knocked off. Didn't think too much about it then, but some time later, I noticed the trailer's tires were wearing unevenly. I took it to an RV repair guy for a brake, bearing and alignment job. He told me that the only place that could align it was a frame shop and to hold onto my hat when they gave me the estimate. RV trailers don't have alignment adjusters, you have to bend the frame. For sure. I knew that I needed new tires, and the frame shop found me some, with wheels for a pretty fair price. Altogether, it was nearly a grand with the alignment.



Lesson: slow down on rough roads.


Last year, I put overload shocks on my F150 and it's improved the tow greatly, but I will never drive that fast on bad roads again.

[The Lieutenant]

If you think 80 was bad stay away from 84 between Scranton and Port Jervis. If I had to pick a "worst road in the world" 84 would be it.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by thankyou

I learned a very expensive lesson about rough roads several years ago. I have some friends who lived in western Kansas, and would often stop at their place going to or from Colorado. They lived twenty some miles off I70 in a quite pretty area around Colby. The night skies were amazing. Anyway, I was headed to their place and took the dirt road at the speed I had in the past, but it had rained and the ruts were deep. After I got there, I noticed water coming out of the camper and saw that the fresh water drain cap was knocked off. Didn't think too much about it then, but some time later, I noticed the trailer's tires were wearing unevenly. I took it to an RV repair guy for a brake, bearing and alignment job. He told me that the only place that could align it was a frame shop and to hold onto my hat when they gave me the estimate. RV trailers don't have alignment adjusters, you have to bend the frame. For sure. I knew that I needed new tires, and the frame shop found me some, with wheels for a pretty fair price. Altogether, it was nearly a grand with the alignment.



Lesson: slow down on rough roads.


Last year, I put overload shocks on my F150 and it's improved the tow greatly, but I will never drive that fast on bad roads again.

Many people on here have said it only cost them a hundred bucks or two to get a trailer alignment done. Obviously that fluctuates with how much work is required.

[jimmoore13]

Originally Posted by Dodger454

Our first trip out was Saturday with our new Salem 27 REI trailer, I am towing with a Nissan Titan. On smooth asphalt roads it rides quite well,no bounce,no sway,. On Pennsylvania's wonderful well worn roads like I-80. At speeds between 60-65 you can see and feel the trailer going up and down "bouncing" I would slow until it stopped.
Is there a solution? Add leaves to the springs? Air bags? Stay out of Pa?? It was worst on older worn concrete roads. On newer asphalt it was smooth as glass!
Ideas? Suggestions? No I'm not buying a different truck or trailer.

Several factors may be in play. Most likely is a rhythmic oscillation in the trailer suspension due to the frequency of pavement seams. Many eastern roads were paved with concrete, and even a layer of asphalt over the top can't hide the joints in the pads. There is a section of highway near my home where the slabs are smaller than normal, and at the right pace, my little utility trailer would dance like it was possessed.

Shock absorbers on the trailer are the best answer. The undamped springs in the trailer suspension can find a rhythm that will have the tires bouncing off the ground, while the TV is riding fairly smoothly...and certainly under control. This month's issue of Trailer Life featured an article on a brand of "slipper springs" and shocks in combination. A good read. Lippert and many others make shock mounts and shocks for RVs as aftermarket kits.

Check your tire pressures. If you run the pressures higher than spec, the hard tires will really exacerbate the problem. Tires do a lot to absorb road irregularities, so being sure you are running the proper pressure may help a little.

Running "light" will also aggravate the problem. If you tend to travel light, the suspension is designed to carry up to its full load. An under-loaded trailer will be "stiff legged" over the rough stuff. I'm not suggesting that you pack in the pounds, but it may account for part of the problem.

WDH adjustments and airbags or other TV suspension adds may help, but they are not the true source of the problem. Undamped axles on the trailer are the problem. If you can swing it, add shocks. And bear in mind that if you subject your rig to this kind of shake, rattle and roll, it will cause problems and cost you money in the long run.

I do lots of boondocking FAR into rough gravel roads. Washboard is the worst. It was shaking my trailer apart...my first task was to look for screws and other fasteners on the floor and pieces falling off. In my case, since the dirt roads are also slow roads - 25 mph or so - I drop my tire pressures well below spec (spec is 50 PSI and I'll run 40 PSI) to soften the ride. Jeeps do this to improve traction and ride off-road. I have an onboard compressor, and if I'm going to shift to highway speeds, I'll properly inflate the tires. Makes a TON of difference.

[old40ford]

Originally Posted by doc73

Adding airlift springs to my 1500 helped with the expansion joints. How is your weights and how are you loaded up?

X2

[Jimandchris]

Originally Posted by Dodger454

Our first trip out was Saturday with our new Salem 27 REI trailer, I am towing with a Nissan Titan. On smooth asphalt roads it rides quite well,no bounce,no sway,. On Pennsylvania's wonderful well worn roads like I-80. At speeds between 60-65 you can see and feel the trailer going up and down "bouncing" I would slow until it stopped.
Is there a solution? Add leaves to the springs? Air bags? Stay out of Pa?? It was worst on older worn concrete roads. On newer asphalt it was smooth as glass!
Ideas? Suggestions? No I'm not buying a different truck or trailer.

You may want to see if your setup is bouncy on other hiways. I80 in western PA is notorious for causing issues. In my pre-retirement days we actually drove to west PA on I80 and collected road data using several different vehicle configurations to duplicate the bounciness back in our test labs. Good luck.

[Coop067]

I recently experienced the same thing. what helped me and took away all bounce is the Roadmaster active suspension. Take a look at it on www.etrailer.com they have videos and everything. You can probably use the 1mm setting but will have to re-figure you WDH.

[old40ford]

Originally Posted by SailorSam20500

Warning - minor thread hijack and rant...

Come drive in Michigan. The stretch of I-75 from Toledo up to the Michigan "Welcome Center" will really get your attention...

End of rant...

Now back to answering the OP's question...

X2 was just there last weekend, ouch

[jaherbst]

Airlift bags will solve your bouncy problem. Get the Bluetooth remote to try different pressures. Airlift 1000 is the best IMO. Your springs are simply not stiff enough. Do not add a leaf as you will have a permanent stiff ride without the trailer hooked up.

I would not recommend a manual inflation system. Way too much inconvenience. Cheaper but you will hate it. The Bluetooth will automatically keep your set pressure or you may change it with the remote.

Jack

[AlaskaErik]

Originally Posted by jaherbst

Airlift bags will solve your bouncy problem. Get the Bluetooth remote to try different pressures. Airlift 1000 is the best IMO. Your springs are simply not stiff enough. Do not add a leaf as you will have a permanent stiff ride without the trailer hooked up.

I would not recommend a manual inflation system. Way too much inconvenience. Cheaper but you will hate it. The Bluetooth will automatically keep your set pressure or you may change it with the remote.

Jack

I have the Airlift 2000 with manual inflation and I find it's no trouble at all. If I had to air up and down dozens of times a day, I would go with onboard inflation. But a few dozen times a year is no big deal. I carry a 12 volt pump and pressure gauge with me anyway. I installed my system with a T connection, so only one inflation point. That way, if the system ever fails, I'm not asymmetrical. For a half ton pickup, I'd go with the Airlift 2000, since you can easily be over 1000 lbs with a load and tongue weight. For a 3/4 or one ton, I'd go with the Airlift 5000 Ultimate, since you don't need to maintain any air pressure when empty.

[doc73]

Originally Posted by AlaskaErik

I have the Airlift 2000 with manual inflation and I find it's no trouble at all. If I had to air up and down dozens of times a day, I would go with onboard inflation. But a few dozen times a year is no big deal. I carry a 12 volt pump and pressure gauge with me anyway. I installed my system with a T connection, so only one inflation point. That way, if the system ever fails, I'm not asymmetrical. For a half ton pickup, I'd go with the Airlift 2000, since you can easily be over 1000 lbs with a load and tongue weight. For a 3/4 or one ton, I'd go with the Airlift 5000 Ultimate, since you don't need to maintain any air pressure when empty.

I agree, I have had the Airlifts in 4 vehicles. One Jeep, One Trailblazer and two pickups. All have been manual inflation. Nothing to fail on the road (as far as electronics) and one less thing to need to by or put in. I set mine to 15psi or so and usually leave them even once on location the camp. I do have a pump though if I am driving alot once set up so I can drain them. No trouble at all.

[DougW]

The best answer I have seen is jimmoore13 in post #29.

[jaherbst]

Originally Posted by doc73

I agree, I have had the Airlifts in 4 vehicles. One Jeep, One Trailblazer and two pickups. All have been manual inflation. Nothing to fail on the road (as far as electronics) and one less thing to need to by or put in. I set mine to 15psi or so and usually leave them even once on location the camp. I do have a pump though if I am driving alot once set up so I can drain them. No trouble at all.

Sorry I have to disagree. Of the four I have had only one was manual. What a PITA. I change pressures according to road and load conditions and simply do it from the cab with the remote Bluetooth. What ever pressure you have set will immediately and automatically pressure up on start up. 1 million plus miles of commercial and pleasure driving with air bags.

If you ever had the Bluetooth remote Automatic Bags you would never go back. It's simply common sense and a no brainer.

Jack

[goduc]

I have airlifts on my 18 Ram. I run 25 psi with 1900 lbs for pin. I use a bicycle pump. Takes about 6 strokes to get to 25 psi. Pretty easy really. Air em out at the site. Air back up before hitching. I can't see spending $300 for a built in pump when I only tow 7-8 times a year. $20.00 for a pump. I've never felt the need to keep changing the psi on the road. Geessh the road conditions change all the time. I'd be pumping up and down all day long.

[jaherbst]

That's my point. Heavy x-winds I put in more air for stability and deflate from the cab when the winds subside. When too much porpoise I inflate some from the cab until road surface/conditions change. With a WDH and Auto bluetooth inflate deflate from the cab remote it prevents my SO from trying to run along with the bicycle pump at 65 MPH and pump up and deflate. Honestly when you spend 100K+ for your rig $300 is a very small price to pay for the Bluetooth Auto inflate.

I think your just trying to justify why you bought the manual/bicycle pump method to save $300. Right

Jack