Trailer Brake Question

[Indy500]

I have a 2011 2500 ram with complete tow package. I'm pulling a rockwood 8288wsa, 2017, I've noticed that when I hook up to the 5er, (and do a pull test).While using the brake controller inside the truck fully on, the trailer wheels are not locking completely. I can feel that they are working, but not skidding the tires. Shouldn't they lock up completely?

[PhoneDude 8289]

Originally Posted by Indy500

I have a 2011 2500 ram with complete tow package. I'm pulling a rockwood 8288wsa, 2017, I've noticed that when I hook up to the 5er, (and do a pull test).While using the brake controller inside the truck fully on, the trailer wheels are not locking completely. I can feel that they are working, but not skidding the tires. Shouldn't they lock up completely?

If your Ram has the integrated factory brake controller it will not lock the brakes below 20 MPH. Full voltage not supplied to the trailer below 20. You could pull the brake away switch to lock em up

[JohnD10]

You don't want them to lock up anyway...

If they are locked up...they are not helping you stop.

[Indy500]

Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289

If your Ram has the integrated factory brake controller it will not lock the brakes below 20 MPH. Full voltage not supplied to the trailer below 20. You could pull the brake away switch to lock em up

Thank you, I was wondering if I could do it that way, at work I always do a pull test and also look at the jaws to make sure it is truly connected. Thanks

[Indy500]

Originally Posted by JohnD10

You don't want them to lock up anyway...

If they are locked up...they are not helping you stop.

Yes JohnD10 I'm doing a pull test. I want to make sure it is truly connected to truck. It is only a safety test. I don't want it locked up while pulling down the road

[Indy500]

Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289

If your Ram has the integrated factory brake controller it will not lock the brakes below 20 MPH. Full voltage not supplied to the trailer below 20. You could pull the brake away switch to lock em up

The guy at the dealer that installed the hitch and hooked it up the first time did a pull test , put I didn't like the way he did it. He left the front lever legs down on the ground then pull tested , but I think that is very stressful on the legs.

[Bama Rambler]

Originally Posted by Indy500

The guy at the dealer that installed the hitch and hooked it up the first time did a pull test , put I didn't like the way he did it. He left the front lever legs down on the ground then pull tested , but I think that is very stressful on the legs.

You are correct. You stand the chance of bending a leg or legs that way. You should raise the gear until the legs are just clear and then use the brake manual level to engage the RV brakes. This actually does two things. 1) it makes sure that the fifth wheel connection is secure and 2) it makes sure that the RV brakes are working.

By raising the landing gear just until clear of the ground it would allow them to catch the RV, and prevent damage to the truck, if the 5th wheel connection weren't completely engaged.

[Indy500]

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

You are correct. You stand the chance of bending a leg or legs that way. You should raise the gear until the legs are just clear and then use the brake manual level to engage the RV brakes. This actually does two things. 1) it makes sure that the fifth wheel connection is secure and 2) it makes sure that the RV brakes are working.

By raising the landing gear just until clear of the ground it would allow them to catch the RV, and prevent damage to the truck, if the 5th wheel connection weren't completely engaged.

My thoughts exactly, thank you