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Old 04-08-2015, 06:38 PM   #21
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it sounds like not enough weight is being transferred to the front axle , 50-100# or a drop+ in fender measurement of 1/4' will do it , drive inbetween adj. when you get to the right setup you will know it, with the truck weighing 4000+ and the TT at 7000 its the tail waging the dog. so a properly adj hitch is the answer, good luck
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Old 04-08-2015, 10:37 PM   #22
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Thanks for all the info. Will be hooking it up this weekend to play around
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:53 AM   #23
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The truck's weight is not changed in the front but part of the trailer tongue weight that was on the rear axle is now transferred to the front of the truck and the trailer. Example: tongue weight before weight distribution is 1000# on the truck rear axle. Apply weight distribution and 200# goes to the truck front axle, 600# stays on the truck rear axle, and 200# goes to the trailer axles.
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Old 04-09-2015, 09:58 AM   #24
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Weight is transferred to the front of the truck and to the TT axles when using WD. It's pretty basic. Just measure the front and then hitch up. If you don't see any difference between hitched and unhitched in the front then you're not putting enough tension on the WD spring bars. The rear of the truck needs to be jacked up with the tongue jack, attach the spring bars, then lower the truck. You can't apply any weight transfer if you don't jack up the rear of the truck. If you not lifting that F150 at least 3-5" before hitching then you're not getting front weight transfer.
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:03 AM   #25
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Speaking from experience with 2 F 150's, one a 09 5.4 and two a 13 Eco towing the same 32 Ft rockwood and serious sway issues. Change the tires on the truck to LT first. The rest doesn't matter until you have capable solid rubber underneath.
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:17 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by MtnGuy View Post
The Ford manual has apparently changed since my 2006 F150 came out. My manual states something like "the front bumper needs to be within 1/2" of the unhitched measurement, and the rear bumper no higher than the unhitched measurement". Nothing about whether that 1/2" is higher or lower in front. That confused me for a while, until I thought about it. As the back end goes down, the front bumper comes up....more than the front fenders because of the overhang. The WDH will cause the front bumper to come back down. If I remember correctly, my bumper is the same measurement both hitched and unhitched, using the fender measurements to set up my WDH.



How does the affect weight distributing and trailer sway ??

Yes it has changed. Here's the instructions for the 2013 F150. Page 276.

When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use
the following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your vehicle’s front wheel opening
on the fender. This is H1.
3. Securely attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle without the
weight-distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your vehicle’s front wheel opening
on the fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight-distributing bars so that
the height of your vehicle’s front wheel opening on the fender is
approximately halfway between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward your
vehicle. If not, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat
Steps 2–6.
Once the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward the vehicle:
• Lock the bar tension adjuster in place.
• Check that the trailer tongue securely attaches and locks onto the
hitch.
• Install safety chains, lighting, and trailer brake controls as required by
law or the trailer manufacturer.

http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo.../13f12om3e.pdf
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:29 AM   #27
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Adjust your hitch, and add another sway control. It's a cheap solution and will show immediate results. You can buy a sway control just like you already have from ebay for about $30 and it comes with all the hardware and instructions you need. I am picking up the same exact camper today and pulling with a 3/4 ton diesel and I already ordered my second sway control. Currently I have the exact same hitch setup as you for my 26' camper, but read that 30' and over requires two friction sway controls.

If your still not happy then look at upgrading hitch and getting better tires and you were only out $30 and a couple of hours!
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:49 AM   #28
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My new rig is a 1/2 ton pickup pulling a 34' trailer. I currently run P rated tires at 44 psi when towing but will probably switch to LTs when they need changing. I have no sway and I attribute it to my new Equalizer 4 point hitch even though I am pulling a longer, heavier trailer with a smaller capacity truck.
Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
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Old 04-09-2015, 10:57 AM   #29
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Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
Max cold pressure on P tires.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:08 AM   #30
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The air bag discussion has been moved to here: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ing-79163.html
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:09 AM   #31
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Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
Check your tire psi rates before pumping to 44 lbs. My OEM tires were only rated to 35 psi.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:12 AM   #32
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Check your tire psi rates before pumping to 44 lbs. My OEM tires were only rated to 35 psi.
Might want to check the max cold temp stamped on the side of the tires.
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Old 04-09-2015, 11:41 AM   #33
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OK, my door says normal inflation pressure is 35 psi. But my tires say max 44 psi. So now I understand where it comes from.

Tires are: P275/65R18

Thanks.

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Old 04-09-2015, 11:57 AM   #34
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X2 on the dual sway bars.


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Old 04-09-2015, 12:14 PM   #35
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X2 on the dual sway bars.


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I only have 1 sway bar on my setup below and I never have sway. It's because I've got my WDH set up correctly and my tires up to max. cold pressure so there's no sway with normal driving. I do feel it when I pass or am passed by big vehicles but that's to be somewhat expected with my setup and I never feel out of control.

That being said, I will be adding a 2nd sway bar this summer for those "just in case" situations.

Basically what I'm saying is that those sway bars are only for unexpected conditions where sudden sway could be a problem. With a properly set WDH and correctly inflated tires, there should be no sway at all in normal driving conditions.
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Old 04-10-2015, 04:33 PM   #36
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Any thoughts on the second part of the tire pressure question? Do you max inflate both front and back, or just the back?
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Old 04-10-2015, 04:40 PM   #37
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Any thoughts on the second part of the tire pressure question? Do you max inflate both front and back, or just the back?
IF, you are running P tires, I would go max pressure of 44# front and back.
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Old 04-11-2015, 07:51 PM   #38
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Went with 44psi on tires and cranked down sway bar real tight
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Old 04-11-2015, 11:14 PM   #39
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I'm giving the tire pressure a try on the way home tomorrow. Thinking about LT tires and ordered a second sway bar.
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Old 04-13-2015, 12:37 AM   #40
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I'm using P tires with max psi. The toying was okay before with no real white knuckle moments. But I did know it was back there. When I added the 2nd sway bar is when I didn't really know i was towing. Everything stiffened up and it was very noticeable difference and it added a measure of safety in my opinion.


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