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04-08-2015, 06:38 PM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: crete,il /texas
Posts: 498
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it sounds like not enough weight is being transferred to the front axle , 50-100# or a drop+ in fender measurement of 1/4' will do it , drive inbetween adj. when you get to the right setup you will know it, with the truck weighing 4000+ and the TT at 7000 its the tail waging the dog. so a properly adj hitch is the answer, good luck
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04-08-2015, 10:37 PM
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#22
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
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Thanks for all the info. Will be hooking it up this weekend to play around
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04-09-2015, 09:53 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Florida East Coast
Posts: 315
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The truck's weight is not changed in the front but part of the trailer tongue weight that was on the rear axle is now transferred to the front of the truck and the trailer. Example: tongue weight before weight distribution is 1000# on the truck rear axle. Apply weight distribution and 200# goes to the truck front axle, 600# stays on the truck rear axle, and 200# goes to the trailer axles.
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04-09-2015, 09:58 AM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,002
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Weight is transferred to the front of the truck and to the TT axles when using WD. It's pretty basic. Just measure the front and then hitch up. If you don't see any difference between hitched and unhitched in the front then you're not putting enough tension on the WD spring bars. The rear of the truck needs to be jacked up with the tongue jack, attach the spring bars, then lower the truck. You can't apply any weight transfer if you don't jack up the rear of the truck. If you not lifting that F150 at least 3-5" before hitching then you're not getting front weight transfer.
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04-09-2015, 10:03 AM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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Speaking from experience with 2 F 150's, one a 09 5.4 and two a 13 Eco towing the same 32 Ft rockwood and serious sway issues. Change the tires on the truck to LT first. The rest doesn't matter until you have capable solid rubber underneath.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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04-09-2015, 10:17 AM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Oregon
Posts: 1,002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnGuy
The Ford manual has apparently changed since my 2006 F150 came out. My manual states something like "the front bumper needs to be within 1/2" of the unhitched measurement, and the rear bumper no higher than the unhitched measurement". Nothing about whether that 1/2" is higher or lower in front. That confused me for a while, until I thought about it. As the back end goes down, the front bumper comes up....more than the front fenders because of the overhang. The WDH will cause the front bumper to come back down. If I remember correctly, my bumper is the same measurement both hitched and unhitched, using the fender measurements to set up my WDH.
How does the affect weight distributing and trailer sway ??
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Yes it has changed. Here's the instructions for the 2013 F150. Page 276.
When hooking-up a trailer using a weight-distributing hitch, always use
the following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your vehicle’s front wheel opening
on the fender. This is H1.
3. Securely attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle without the
weight-distributing bars connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your vehicle’s front wheel opening
on the fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the weight-distributing bars so that
the height of your vehicle’s front wheel opening on the fender is
approximately halfway between H1 and H2.
6. Check that the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward your
vehicle. If not, adjust the ball height accordingly and repeat
Steps 2–6.
Once the trailer is level or slightly nose down toward the vehicle:
• Lock the bar tension adjuster in place.
• Check that the trailer tongue securely attaches and locks onto the
hitch.
• Install safety chains, lighting, and trailer brake controls as required by
law or the trailer manufacturer.
http://www.fordservicecontent.com/Fo.../13f12om3e.pdf
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04-09-2015, 10:29 AM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2014
Location: TX
Posts: 213
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Adjust your hitch, and add another sway control. It's a cheap solution and will show immediate results. You can buy a sway control just like you already have from ebay for about $30 and it comes with all the hardware and instructions you need. I am picking up the same exact camper today and pulling with a 3/4 ton diesel and I already ordered my second sway control. Currently I have the exact same hitch setup as you for my 26' camper, but read that 30' and over requires two friction sway controls.
If your still not happy then look at upgrading hitch and getting better tires and you were only out $30 and a couple of hours!
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04-09-2015, 10:49 AM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Parkville, MD
Posts: 97
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Windjammin
My new rig is a 1/2 ton pickup pulling a 34' trailer. I currently run P rated tires at 44 psi when towing but will probably switch to LTs when they need changing. I have no sway and I attribute it to my new Equalizer 4 point hitch even though I am pulling a longer, heavier trailer with a smaller capacity truck.
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Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
__________________
2012 Lacrosse, 308RES.
2013 Ford F150, XLT, 4x4, Supercrew, Eco-Boost.
Lee, Dawn and "CoCo", the dog!
2015 Overnight Camping Days = 25, States Below:
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04-09-2015, 10:57 AM
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#29
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHarley
Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
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Max cold pressure on P tires.
__________________
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04-09-2015, 11:08 AM
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#30
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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04-09-2015, 11:09 AM
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#31
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Shenandoah Valley of Virginia
Posts: 9,280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaHarley
Where does the number 44 psi come from?
Do you run this in both the front and the rear "P" rated tires?
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Check your tire psi rates before pumping to 44 lbs. My OEM tires were only rated to 35 psi.
__________________
Chap , DW Joy, and Fur Baby Sango
2017 F350 Lariat CCSB, SRW, 4x4, 6.7 PS
2017 Grand Design Reflection 337RLS
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04-09-2015, 11:12 AM
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#32
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MtnGuy
Check your tire psi rates before pumping to 44 lbs. My OEM tires were only rated to 35 psi.
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Might want to check the max cold temp stamped on the side of the tires.
__________________
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04-09-2015, 11:41 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Parkville, MD
Posts: 97
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OK, my door says normal inflation pressure is 35 psi. But my tires say max 44 psi. So now I understand where it comes from.
Tires are: P275/65R18
Thanks.
__________________
2012 Lacrosse, 308RES.
2013 Ford F150, XLT, 4x4, Supercrew, Eco-Boost.
Lee, Dawn and "CoCo", the dog!
2015 Overnight Camping Days = 25, States Below:
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04-09-2015, 11:57 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 516
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X2 on the dual sway bars.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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04-09-2015, 12:14 PM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Saskatchewan, Canada
Posts: 292
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scubanut
X2 on the dual sway bars.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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I only have 1 sway bar on my setup below and I never have sway. It's because I've got my WDH set up correctly and my tires up to max. cold pressure so there's no sway with normal driving. I do feel it when I pass or am passed by big vehicles but that's to be somewhat expected with my setup and I never feel out of control.
That being said, I will be adding a 2nd sway bar this summer for those "just in case" situations.
Basically what I'm saying is that those sway bars are only for unexpected conditions where sudden sway could be a problem. With a properly set WDH and correctly inflated tires, there should be no sway at all in normal driving conditions.
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04-10-2015, 04:33 PM
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#36
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 27
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Any thoughts on the second part of the tire pressure question? Do you max inflate both front and back, or just the back?
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04-10-2015, 04:40 PM
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#37
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wdbrady
Any thoughts on the second part of the tire pressure question? Do you max inflate both front and back, or just the back?
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IF, you are running P tires, I would go max pressure of 44# front and back.
__________________
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04-11-2015, 07:51 PM
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#38
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Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 15
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Went with 44psi on tires and cranked down sway bar real tight
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04-11-2015, 11:14 PM
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#39
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Junior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Mount Holly, NC
Posts: 27
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I'm giving the tire pressure a try on the way home tomorrow. Thinking about LT tires and ordered a second sway bar.
__________________
2015 Salem Hemisphere 272RLIS
2013 F-150 FX2 Ecoboost
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04-13-2015, 12:37 AM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Canada
Posts: 516
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I'm using P tires with max psi. The toying was okay before with no real white knuckle moments. But I did know it was back there. When I added the 2nd sway bar is when I didn't really know i was towing. Everything stiffened up and it was very noticeable difference and it added a measure of safety in my opinion.
Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums
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