Transmission Overheating on Sequoia

[asr524]

Do you tow in "D" ? I know on the Tacoma there was a lot of talk to keep the trans out of "D" and use "4" that way the trans wasnt hunting for overdrive and heating the trans.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by ard58

Aftermarket cooler would be a wise investment. Most stock coolers, unless has a tow package, go through the bottom of the radiator. It could be clogged internal, or you might have a flow issue with radiator.

This does have a tow package.

[rsdata]

stay away from anyplace where the shop use one of those vacuum pumps extractors, had my Honda where the dealer did a transmission flush using one of those contraptions , and 3 weeks later my transmission died due to excess dirt and crap lodging in when vacuumed (or trying to vacuum)
Would have been better to drain & fill process & drop the pan to change filter.

certainly question the shop where you take the Sequia into as to what they plan to do... drop the pan and change the filter and fluid is the only good choice.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by rsdata

My ZF 8 speed RAM tranny is sealed also

It did not keep me from having the pan dropped and new fluid put in at 50K miles because I tow... I also did it again at 95K miles...

I needed a replacement pan because the factory pan is plastic...

I replaced it with an aftermarket aluminum pan...

I am going to get replacement fluid. Did you do yours yourself, get it done at the dealer, or elsewhere?

A plastic pan? Who would have thought. I'll look into that.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by robo44

I agree with most, a aux transmission cooler would help tremendously & get the transmission serviced, new filter transmission control module for software updates, Some transmissions also require certain adjustments while the pan is removed

Id absolutely stay away from anyplace where the shop use one of those vacuum pumps extractors, had my Honda where the dealer did a transmission flush using one of those contraptions , and 3 weeks later my transmission died due to excess dirt and crap lodging in when vacuumed (or trying to vacuum)
Would have been better to drain & fill process & drop the pan to change filter.

My 2 cents

With the tow package it already has an aux transmission cooler, which is different, I understand, than those without the tow package.

I'm not familiar with the vacuum pump extractors. I would like to know the difference between a transmission fluid change (drain) which I understand only replaces about half the fluid or less, and a flush which replaces it all. Those I've talked with do a flush, but whether that means they use a pump extractor, I don't know. It does seem like replacing all the fluid would be sensible.

Did you get any compensation from the dealer?

[rsdata]

I am going to get replacement fluid. Did you do yours yourself, get it done at the dealer, or elsewhere?

I took mine to a trusted mechanic... to messy for me... you might call Toyota for a quote on looking at it and doing the servicing... sometimes transmissions and Toyota can be a bit tricky... dont be surprised by the cost... my tranny fluid was over $20/qt for that ZF German transmission from Mopar... I forget how many quarts it took. The replacement plastic pan/filter was not cheap either, but again I opted for an aftermarket aluminum pan so that was even more $$. BUT it helps keep the fluid cooler then a plastic pan.

[rsdata]

I'm not familiar with the vacuum pump extractors. I would like to know the difference between a transmission fluid change (drain) which I understand only replaces about half the fluid or less, and a flush which replaces it all.

I have had reputable transmission shops tell me that once a tranny gets to about 75K miles they will not do a flush anymore, as was said before, the crud and dirt will be dislodged and gum the thing up. Drop the pan, and drain. My mechanic will measure the amount lost when dropping the pan and add that same amount back.

I'm not even sure with a sealed tranny you can do a vacuum out, flush service.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by asr524

Do you tow in "D" ? I know on the Tacoma there was a lot of talk to keep the trans out of "D" and use "4" that way the trans wasnt hunting for overdrive and heating the trans.

I do tow in D. But I always use Tow/Haul mode, and one of its functions is to do the same thing.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by rsdata

I took mine to a trusted mechanic... to messy for me... you might call Toyota for a quote on looking at it and doing the servicing... sometimes transmissions and Toyota can be a bit tricky... dont be surprised by the cost... my tranny fluid was over $20/qt for that ZF German transmission from Mopar... I forget how many quarts it took. The replacement plastic pan/filter was not cheap either, but again I opted for an aftermarket aluminum pan so that was even more $$. BUT it helps keep the fluid cooler then a plastic pan.

My biggest problem is that my trusted mechanic retired. So I lucked into finding another trusted mechanic who retired two years later. Conclusion: I must be hard on trusted mechanics! <g> I haven't found another one yet who's volunteered to take over that position! I'm not a fan of going back to the dealer. Having someone to contact if their work gives you trouble while on the road does have some benefit, I suppose, and they should know the vehicle's idiosyncrasies better, though none of them seemed to have an idea what would cause the overheating.

$230, $240, $271. Not cheap. One of them thought I should also do the transfer case fluid and the front and rear differential fluid. I'm usually skeptical about things the dealer brings up, but with 94K miles and having towed some, I'm thinking it might not be a bad idea.

I plan to ask them about changing out the thermostat, too, in case that might be the issue. Haven't priced that yet, though.

As to the later post I'm conflicted. I can see the issue with dislodging crud and dirt, though I think that would be more an issue in the earlier non-sealed transmissions. On the other hand, if the fluid is causing the overheating problem, as some seem to think, then changing it all seems to make sense. Have to mull this one over.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by Larry-NC

A good code scanner would plug into the OBDII port and continuously report transmission temperatures.

Agreed. But since I already have a gauge and know it's overheating, my question is how does that help me identify why it's overheating so I can correct it?

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by D W

X2. Without a dipstick you have no way of knowing the condition of the fluid. Excessive heat is the number 1 killer of automatic transmissions.

Granted. I think that's a good reason to go ahead and get the fluid changed. I'm skeptical about it solving the overheating problem, though, but we'll see.

[Scrapper]

Not sure about your Sequoia but some smaller vehicles the Tow Package simply means a slightly larger radiator with a slightly larger transmission cooler built inside and/or a larger or double radiator fan. An add-on/third party transmission oil cooler is always mounted outside, usually in front of the radiator.

[robo44]

Originally Posted by stlsailor

With the tow package it already has an aux transmission cooler, which is different, I understand, than those without the tow package.

I'm not familiar with the vacuum pump extractors. I would like to know the difference between a transmission fluid change (drain) which I understand only replaces about half the fluid or less, and a flush which replaces it all. Those I've talked with do a flush, but whether that means they use a pump extractor, I don't know. It does seem like replacing all the fluid would be sensible.

Did you get any compensation from the dealer?

First I own a Toyota Highlander and Toyota Transmission Fluid is very specific, never use anything other than what your manual states, Id bet its -ATFWS Automatic Transmission Fluid. No matter what your mechanic may say only use what your manual stated.

Purpose of this is that you will never get all the fluid out of the torque converter, by drain & fill cycle you will end up at the end of the day with better cleaner fluid.

With that said you can do a drain and fill on your own.. the process I use is

It is obvious that is you want to change your filter & gasket you do this step at #1

1. Drain the Old Fluid
2. Measure what you took out using a cleaned milk jug
3. Put back in the transmission exact amount you took out. You my have a dip stick where you can place fluid back or a access bolt on the top of the transmission.
4. Start your engine shift through the gears while parked for a minute or two
5. Drive for 250 Miles
6. Repeat 2 more times after 250 miles

I think a specialty transmission shop may "flush" in other methods that those vacuum extractors. I am not an expert in that arena.. I do know and recommend anyone who asks never use the vacuum Flush machines.

[robo44]

I forgot to add my Honda Dealer experience, they ended up agreeing to pay for 2/3 the cost of a new Transmission and Installation. The Honda had 120K miles
.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Not sure about your Sequoia but some smaller vehicles the Tow Package simply means a slightly larger radiator with a slightly larger transmission cooler built inside and/or a larger or double radiator fan. An add-on/third party transmission oil cooler is always mounted outside, usually in front of the radiator.

My understanding, right or wrong, is that if you have the smaller engine or no tow package you got that kind of arrangement on the 14 Sequoia. If you have the 5.7L and the tow package you get the add-on cooler. That's what I picked up on the Toyota forum. Mine does have a separate radiator in front of the regular radiator, which I think is an add-on cooler.

[stlsailor]

Originally Posted by robo44

First I own a Toyota Highlander and Toyota Transmission Fluid is very specific, never use anything other than what your manual states, Id bet its -ATFWS Automatic Transmission Fluid. No matter what your mechanic may say only use what your manual stated.

Good reminder to not let that slip by.

Originally Posted by robo44

I think a specialty transmission shop may "flush" in other methods that those vacuum extractors. I am not an expert in that arena.. I do know and recommend anyone who asks never use the vacuum Flush machines.

I'd like to have all the fluid changed out, which I understand the drain method doesn't do. So if i can get a flush without the vacuum extractor, I'll go that way. If not, well then that presents difficulties either way. Not sure yet what I'd do in that case. Hopefully won't be necesssary.

[Jason1Pa]

I have the same camper as you. I pull it with a 1 ton dually. I noticed out of all my other trailers (dump trailers, 25ft gooseneck, 16ft utility trailer) that the camper makes my temperature raise more then any of them. I'm not in danger zone by any means, but it does make it hotter then the others. My opinion is it's the wind resistance while pulling it. Your basically pulling a heavy parachute behind you adding a lot of resistance acting like extra weight.. Not knowing too much about your Toyota I'd still say if you are not maxed out your really close with just the camper not even the cargo and water if you carry water with you. What is the GCWR ( overall weight of the vehicle and camper) when sitting on the scales? The GCWR is not the towing capacity,but should be found in your owners manual.

[upflying]

Originally Posted by stlsailor

We had gone a bit less than 40 miles when i happened to look down and notice that the transmission temperature was approaching the red line on the gauge. By the time I found a place to safely pull over it had hit the red line. We let it cool and drove on, having to stop once more. From that point, whenever we tow the transmission temperature gradually climbs to 85-90% or more on the gauge, then drops a bit, climbs, and so forth. I tried tow/haul mode on and off and it seemed to make no difference. I expected it would be worse on hills, but they're small and the gauge didn't react quickly enough to confirm. When I'm not towing the temperature measures fine.

Anybody have this happen and know what might be going on? No answers on Toyota forums, and the dealers don't seem to know.

I tow with a 2014 Toyota Sequoia with tow package pulling a 2018 Coleman Freedom Express 248 RBS.

I do not have any experience with a Sequoia but I was surprised to hear it has a factory transmission temperature gauge.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by stlsailor

Agreed. But since I already have a gauge and know it's overheating, my question is how does that help me identify why it's overheating so I can correct it?

Umm...it's overheating because you are pulling a heavy load with high frontal wind resistance.

The trailer may meet the weight specifications (gross weight, tongue weight) for the vehicle but the frontal area may be too great. Does it overheat if you hold speed to 45mph on level ground? 55? 65? The air resistance goes up as the square of the speed, you know.

[Flybob]

Originally Posted by stlsailor

I'm not an expert on transmission coolers. Why would that be better than the factory-installed one on the vehicle?

It is not a replacement, but an aux trans cooler. The factory cooler is designed for everyday vehicle use. I tow a 248RBS with a 2500HD diesel and feel as others it is a strain on your TV. Many times trans that are failing due to stress do so slowly and as they get worse they heat up more.