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Old 07-31-2017, 07:05 PM   #1
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Unsure if Im set up properly

Im not entirely sure if its just my truck or my WDH is not set up properly. My TV is a 2012 Ram 1500 Crew Cab short box. Im towing a 2018 Grey Wolf 22MKSE, hitch weight according to FR is 585lbs and Im guessing loaded is 5k lbs, possibly more but I've never weighed it.

Now I know the Rams have a soft suspension made for ride comfort, but when I stopped for gas just a couple miles from my house before heading out this past weekend. I noticed that the truck was squatting pretty low. I peaked under the truck and it was sitting right on the bump stops. I took a walk back away from the truck and it appeared that the trailer was sitting level but may have been slightly down at the tongue. It was that close, but definitely was not nose diving nor the truck with the nose in the air.

Here is where Im slightly confused. When we got home and unloaded the truck and trailer with all of our stuff... not counting the stuff that stays in the trailer. I peaked my head under the truck and I had maybe 1.5" from the bump stop to the axle. So this makes me second guess everything...

Im using an EZ Lift WDH, which I believe I have it set up correctly. I also called them a couple of times to verify a couple of questions I had making sure I had it high enough as well as the correct angle. However I did the setup with out the truck and trailer being fully loaded. The trailer had some stuff in it, but the truck was empty. The truck only squatted 1-3/4" in the rear and the front stayed pretty close to the same height.

Please help me out on which direction I need to go with this.. Thank you for your time
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Old 07-31-2017, 07:52 PM   #2
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My setup is similar to your and I also had rear end drop when hooked up to my Coachmen Freedom Express. I've double checked the WDH setup and it seems good according to set up instructions. I had Firestone "Coil-Rite" Air Bag Helper Springs [Model 4185] installed today. Will see how they handle the tongue weight when we take it back out next month. My hitch weight is 705lbs which is 120lbs more than yours.
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Old 08-01-2017, 12:40 PM   #3
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Ok first off weigh the TT, truck and the unit combined. Second get your actual tongue weight. The forest river info is giving you a very generic weight. Guaranteed it is off by quite a bit. Either weigh it at a cat scale or similar, buy a tongue scale or make a homemade scale Plenty of info on how to make a tongue scale to. Without these numbers you do not know if your hitch and bars are set up for this trailer and truck. What size bars do you have for the hitch ? Then you will need measurements from your truck and trailer and all that good stuff. YouTube, and etrailer have great videos to on how to set up stuff.

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Old 08-01-2017, 02:01 PM   #4
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Yep, do your setup again, with the truck and trailer loaded to camp.
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:35 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by mopwr4me2003 View Post
Ok first off weigh the TT, truck and the unit combined. Second get your actual tongue weight. The forest river info is giving you a very generic weight. Guaranteed it is off by quite a bit. Either weigh it at a cat scale or similar, buy a tongue scale or make a homemade scale Plenty of info on how to make a tongue scale to. Without these numbers you do not know if your hitch and bars are set up for this trailer and truck. What size bars do you have for the hitch ? Then you will need measurements from your truck and trailer and all that good stuff. YouTube, and etrailer have great videos to on how to set up stuff.

Tim
Thanks for the insight. I have a CAT scale about 10 miles from me. I'll bring it in there, to get my numbers. My WDH has 1000lb bars, which I planned on being plenty large enough.. I still hope that they are. I know my trailer sitting level is 22" to the top of the coupler. I believe with my truck unhitched I set the top of the ball at 24-3/4". I thought I had it high enough, but perhaps not.
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:36 PM   #6
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Yep, do your setup again, with the truck and trailer loaded to camp.
Kinda sucks to load up a truck but I understand the point of having to do so.
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Old 08-01-2017, 05:56 PM   #7
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Have you tried changing the number of links when you connect your spring bars to your trailer? Try hooking the chains a link or two closer to the bars and see what it does. Your hitch and ball heights sound about right. I have the same WDH as you and the 1,000 lb bars should be more than big enough.
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:10 PM   #8
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Have you tried changing the number of links when you connect your spring bars to your trailer? Try hooking the chains a link or two closer to the bars and see what it does. Your hitch and ball heights sound about right. I have the same WDH as you and the 1,000 lb bars should be more than big enough.

I can only get 1 link hanging, (attaching to the 2nd link) and that is with the trailer jack extended all the way up. I have 7.5* of angle on the ball plate instructions say 6-8* and when talking with the manufacture on the phone they said 7*. I suppose I could adjust it slightly to be able to get to that 3rd link, but I would like to know the actual weights.

The trailer tows great and we just had a 450 mile round trip journey this past weekend most of it on a freeway. I was towing at 70mph and it was very stable. Hence why Im asking if its the WDH or just the trucks suspension...
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:26 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by straightlinespeed View Post
I can only get 1 link hanging, (attaching to the 2nd link) and that is with the trailer jack extended all the way up. I have 7.5* of angle on the ball plate instructions say 6-8* and when talking with the manufacture on the phone they said 7*. I suppose I could adjust it slightly to be able to get to that 3rd link, but I would like to know the actual weights.

The trailer tows great and we just had a 450 mile round trip journey this past weekend most of it on a freeway. I was towing at 70mph and it was very stable. Hence why Im asking if its the WDH or just the trucks suspension...
I hitch mine with 2 links hanging and the truck and trailer both sit level. I don't know what the tongue weight of my trailer is but I'm guessing about 600 lbs. Put a block of wood under your jack so that you can take up another link or two. It should make a big difference. I know that the suspension on the Rams is soft in the rear but the WDH should be able to make up for it. You shouldn't have to add air bags to get the back end of the truck up where it belongs.
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:40 PM   #10
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I hitch mine with 2 links hanging and the truck and trailer both sit level. I don't know what the tongue weight of my trailer is but I'm guessing about 600 lbs. Put a block of wood under your jack so that you can take up another link or two. It should make a big difference. I know that the suspension on the Rams is soft in the rear but the WDH should be able to make up for it. You shouldn't have to add air bags to get the back end of the truck up where it belongs.
I already have the tongue up on about 5" of wood blocks. Mostly so I dont have to crank it so damn much... . Im still only able to get hooked on the 2nd link.
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Old 08-01-2017, 06:52 PM   #11
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I already have the tongue up on about 5" of wood blocks. Mostly so I dont have to crank it so damn much... . Im still only able to get hooked on the 2nd link.
I've got an electric tongue jack on my TT so the cranking part is real easy.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:39 AM   #12
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If your trailer is level, drop the hitch ball one hole and crank on the bars until the trailer is level again. Then the rear of the truck will not be sagging as much.
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Old 08-02-2017, 09:59 AM   #13
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The biggest unknown to us making adjustments to your set up is, what were you hauling in the back of the truck ? A couple hundred quart coolers full of soda and ice ?? Some extra pillows ?? Generator ?? If you unloaded just your camping weekend stuff and it moved that much, maybe close to or exceeding your Rear Axle Weight rating. Just my thoughts.
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Old 08-02-2017, 01:07 PM   #14
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You should be measuring the front of the truck. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of you fender well. When hooked up with you WD the distance should be almost the same. If not you need to adjust the WD.

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Old 08-02-2017, 02:57 PM   #15
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As I recall from my years of towing TTs (5th wheel now), the idea of the WDH is to put as much load on the front wheels as are on the rear.

So, if you measure the distances from front and rear bumpers to the ground before hooking up and then again afterwards, the amount of difference from unloaded to loaded should be the same front and rear.

Example: 10 inches from the ground on front bumper unloaded. 12 inches to ground from the rear one. If both front and rear sink the same amount, say to 8 inches and 10 inches, the hitch adjustment is correct.

Then the hitch height should be adjusted to make the trailer sit more or less level while hooked up.

Recheck and readjust both as required and yes, you will need to do this after both vehicles are loaded as they will be on the road.

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Old 08-02-2017, 04:35 PM   #16
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The biggest unknown to us making adjustments to your set up is, what were you hauling in the back of the truck ? A couple hundred quart coolers full of soda and ice ?? Some extra pillows ?? Generator ?? If you unloaded just your camping weekend stuff and it moved that much, maybe close to or exceeding your Rear Axle Weight rating. Just my thoughts.
In the bed of the truck this past trip. I had 4 bikes, but only half are past the wheel wells, about 20 pieces of wood under the forks of the bikes in front of the wheel wells and a cooler with food and ice behind the wheel wells. Of course full tank of gas, 3 people and dog. In the TT, all clothes, and loaded with all the food, some more wood in a bin and that was about it.

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You should be measuring the front of the truck. Measure the distance from the ground to the top of you fender well. When hooked up with you WD the distance should be almost the same. If not you need to adjust the WD. Tom
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As I recall from my years of towing TTs (5th wheel now), the idea of the WDH is to put as much load on the front wheels as are on the rear.

So, if you measure the distances from front and rear bumpers to the ground before hooking up and then again afterwards, the amount of difference from unloaded to loaded should be the same front and rear.

Example: 10 inches from the ground on front bumper unloaded. 12 inches to ground from the rear one. If both front and rear sink the same amount, say to 8 inches and 10 inches, the hitch adjustment is correct.

Then the hitch height should be adjusted to make the trailer sit more or less level while hooked up.

Recheck and readjust both as required and yes, you will need to do this after both vehicles are loaded as they will be on the road.

Jerry
I did measure the front and rear wheel wells. Front only dropped about a 1/2" and the rear dropped about 1.5". Again this was not fully loaded, like this last trip. Its hard to gauge what we will be bringing with on each trip due to the length of the trip. So fully loaded one time might be less stuff the next time. For instance our next trip is in 2 weeks and it will only be me and my wife and our dog, 2 bikes instead of 4, less clothes and food. So from what Im gathering is I need to start over with setting up my hitch. Add weight to both the truck and trailer to simulate a full load go to the scale and figure out my tongue weight and then reset my hitch, correct?
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:05 PM   #17
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you know wood and food weighs a lot...

buy wood and food close to your destination... why haul all that weight around... especially food... I know wood is expensive to buy near campgrounds, which is why I bought a propane fired firepit.

the trick to linking up more links on the WDH is to crank your hooked up trailer enough to actually lift the rear of the RAM several inches above level... the more lift the better... then hook another link or two on the WDH... the ride will be better and the sag will be less with less food weight and MORE links... when unlatching the WDH links, crank the rear of the truck up again to make it easier to unhook the links

when you get tired of cranking, get yourself an electric jack... then hitching and unhitching is easy... because "electricity can be your friend"...
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:25 PM   #18
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you know wood and food weighs a lot...

buy wood and food close to your destination... why haul all that weight around... especially food... I know wood is expensive to buy near campgrounds, which is why I bought a propane fired firepit.

the trick to linking up more links on the WDH is to crank your hooked up trailer enough to actually lift the rear of the RAM several inches above level... the more lift the better... then hook another link or two on the WDH... the ride will be better and the sag will be less with less food weight and MORE links... when unlatching the WDH links, crank the rear of the truck up again to make it easier to unhook the links

when you get tired of cranking, get yourself an electric jack... then hitching and unhitching is easy... because "electricity can be your friend"...
I hear you on the wood and food weight. Not to mention the 20lbs of ice we buy for 2 coolers. 1 cooler full of food the other full of pop and beer (well more beer than pop) . Yes the wood is insanely expensive hence why we bring it with. The food, other than stopping in the closest large town to where we are camping there is typically not anything right near where we go. Not trying to make excuses but its just much easier to buy all the food and cheaper ahead of time.

I found out that cranking the truck up higher makes it easier to hook the chains, but even though I use about 5" of blocks I still max out the jack and the truck has a raked looked to it. I can almost get that 3rd link, but not quite. I think the power jack in in next years budget, we've spent a awful lot on other stuff this year for the TT.
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Old 08-02-2017, 05:59 PM   #19
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Not trying to make excuses but its just much easier to buy all the food and cheaper ahead of time.

I found out that cranking the truck up higher makes it easier to hook the chains, but even though I use about 5" of blocks I still max out the jack
Easier YES it is easier to pack your food... I used to do the same thing... now not so much...

ice down the food so you can haul it? makes more sense to me to ice it down close to my destination after I bought it fresh at the store that even small towns have...

and try using 6" of blocks, raise that RAM up and get that third link chained up... IT WILL WORK BETTER ALL AROUND believe me...
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Old 08-02-2017, 06:39 PM   #20
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Is your tow ball height to coupler height as recommended by the WDH manufacturer? I'm not familiar with yours but on my Equalizer they recommend having them the same height.
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