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Old 05-14-2021, 02:10 PM   #1
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WDH conundrum…OK, just confused 😊

Truck: 2020 F-150 Lariat with 3.5L EcoBoost, 3.55 dif., and max tow package. GCWR:16,700, CCC 1683
Travel trailer: 2008 Puma 26RLSS: Actual trailer weight loaded for trip: 7,643 lbs.. TW: 863 actual
Rig actual weight for trip: 13,040 to 13,440 lbs. well under GCWR and 1,460 lbs. cargo under CCC ratings. Axle ratings, too, for that matter.
WDH: Curt model #17332 rated for 8-10,000 lbs. TW 800-1,000 lbs.
CAT scale weights of truck alone with passengers and cargo:
Steer axle: 3080 lbs.
Drive axle: 2700 lbs.
CAT scale weights with travel trailer and WDH installed:
1st time with hitch ball 2 inches LOWER than trailer coupler (new truck, old set up). Everything level. WDH set up with the recommended minimum 5 links of chain between trunnion bar and tongue bracket.
Steer axle: 2860
Drive Axle: 3800
Trailer axles: 6780
Driving issue: light feeling in steering
2nd time with hitch ball raised three inches (one inch HIGHER than coupler and rig 400 lbs. lighter (clothes and food emptied after trip). WDH, again, set up with the recommended minimum 5 links of chain between trunnion bar and tongue bracket.
Steer axle: 2860 (no change)
Drive axle: 3600 (200 lbs. lighter)
Trailer axle: 6580 (200 lbs. lighter)
Driving issues: None really. Drove with much firmer steering. However, Concern #1 is the trailer rides a little unlevel with the “stern” a little lower. See pic. Concern #2 is that the WDH weight that was shifted appears to go all to the trailer axles and none to the steer axle. That is not the way it supposed to work.
Question: Is my set up the best this Curt system can give me, or am I missing something here in my set up? The only adjustments I have a this point is the height of my hitch ball and the number of chain links in the WDH.
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:33 PM   #2
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Looking at the picture, It appears your ball mount is too high.

Put the whole rig on level, flat ground. Level trailer front to rear. Set the ball to within an inch of the coupler height. Measure the height at the front and rear wheel wells of the truck. Hitch it up then use the bars adjustments to bring the trailer back level. Then remeasure the heights at the wheel wheels of the truck. The font wheel wells need to be at least as low as they were when unhitched, I prefer to have them drop nearly the same amount as the rear ones.
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougW View Post
Looking at the picture, It appears your ball mount is too high.

Put the whole rig on level, flat ground. Level trailer front to rear. Set the ball to within an inch of the coupler height. Measure the height at the front and rear wheel wells of the truck. Hitch it up then use the bars adjustments to bring the trailer back level. Then remeasure the heights at the wheel wheels of the truck. The font wheel wells need to be at least as low as they were when unhitched, I prefer to have them drop nearly the same amount as the rear ones.
OK. Sounds like a plan. If that is done, do you have an opinion about the proportion of weight shifted to front axle vs. trailer axles? 50:50 or something else?
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Old 05-14-2021, 02:59 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
Truck: 2020 F-150 Lariat with 3.5L EcoBoost, 3.55 dif., and max tow package. GCWR:16,700, CCC 1683
Travel trailer: 2008 Puma 26RLSS: Actual trailer weight loaded for trip: 7,643 lbs.. TW: 863 actual
Rig actual weight for trip: 13,040 to 13,440 lbs. well under GCWR and 1,460 lbs. cargo under CCC ratings. Axle ratings, too, for that matter.
WDH: Curt model #17332 rated for 8-10,000 lbs. TW 800-1,000 lbs.
CAT scale weights of truck alone with passengers and cargo:
Steer axle: 3080 lbs.
Drive axle: 2700 lbs.
CAT scale weights with travel trailer and WDH installed:
1st time with hitch ball 2 inches LOWER than trailer coupler (new truck, old set up). Everything level. WDH set up with the recommended minimum 5 links of chain between trunnion bar and tongue bracket.
Steer axle: 2860
Drive Axle: 3800
Trailer axles: 6780
Driving issue: light feeling in steering
2nd time with hitch ball raised three inches (one inch HIGHER than coupler and rig 400 lbs. lighter (clothes and food emptied after trip). WDH, again, set up with the recommended minimum 5 links of chain between trunnion bar and tongue bracket.
Steer axle: 2860 (no change)
Drive axle: 3600 (200 lbs. lighter)
Trailer axle: 6580 (200 lbs. lighter)
Driving issues: None really. Drove with much firmer steering. However, Concern #1 is the trailer rides a little unlevel with the “stern” a little lower. See pic. Concern #2 is that the WDH weight that was shifted appears to go all to the trailer axles and none to the steer axle. That is not the way it supposed to work.
Question: Is my set up the best this Curt system can give me, or am I missing something here in my set up? The only adjustments I have a this point is the height of my hitch ball and the number of chain links in the WDH.
Did you actually change the number of links in the chain? I'm not seeing that in your description. Tightening up the links should return weight lost from the front axle of the truck. If you run out of chain links, tilt the ball as should be mentioned in the manual. Minimum chain links is to ensure clearance between the bar and trailer frame during turns. Fender measurements are only needed if you don't have scale weights. Get the trailer levelled better first as DougW mentioned. Raising/lowering the ball is only to level the trailer after everything is hooked up and setup properly, it has nothing to do with returning lost weight. Check your truck and hitch manual, but returning 75% of lost weight is a good place to start.
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:12 PM   #5
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"returning 75% of lost weight is a good rule of thumb."
Could you explain that comment a little more?
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
"returning 75% of lost weight is a good rule of thumb."
Could you explain that comment a little more?
It's in your hitch manual, might be in your truck manual. Hitch manual might be in inches, not weight, but doesn't matter. If you lost 200 lbs from the front axle, you might try returning 75% of that, or 150lbs.

Don't worry what the rear of the truck does during all this, it doesn't matter. In the end the truck (and trailer) should look nice and level once all set up.
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:21 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
"returning 75% of lost weight is a good rule of thumb."
Could you explain that comment a little more?
Say your truck without a trailer has a front fender measurement of 37" Drop the trailer onto the hitch no spring bars, for ease of cyphering say it goes to 38". To return 75% of the weight back onto the steer axles you want the front fender to go back down to 37-1/4" when the spring bars are hooked up. adjust as needed.

Safe travels
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
OK. Sounds like a plan. If that is done, do you have an opinion about the proportion of weight shifted to front axle vs. trailer axles? 50:50 or something else?
In my 59 years of towing trailers I have never yet used scales to set up a WDH, just a tape measure. I set the ball height as described then adjust the chains to put the change in height of the front and rear wheel wells to about the same amount, if the front has at least the same clearance as before the trailer was hitched and the rear settles a little lower it should tow just fine. Getting the proper weight on the front axel is what is the important part.
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Old 05-14-2021, 03:36 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike134 View Post
Say your truck without a trailer has a front fender measurement of 37" Drop the trailer onto the hitch no spring bars, for ease of cyphering say it goes to 38". To return 75% of the weight back onto the steer axles you want the front fender to go back down to 37-1/4" when the spring bars are hooked up. adjust as needed.

Safe travels
Yes, so right now OP doesn't have that scale weight listed, only the truck itself and the truck and trailer with the WDH connected and he's still 220 lbs lighter. We don't know where he started from with the truck and trailer connected but with the WDH not connected.

Weight or measurement, it doesn't matter.
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Old 05-14-2021, 04:52 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lins View Post
Yes, so right now OP doesn't have that scale weight listed, only the truck itself and the truck and trailer with the WDH connected and he's still 220 lbs lighter. We don't know where he started from with the truck and trailer connected but with the WDH not connected.

Weight or measurement, it doesn't matter.
Right. I don't know how much the WDH is helping on the front axle already. I have a plan. timeframe: next Thursday (5/20) due to commitments. My plan is to get the rig on level concrete. Unhitch the trailer (and WDH) and get it level. Measure how high the hitch ball is (at its current max height position on the shank) in relation to the coupler. Measure my front and rear truck fender heights at the axle. Attach the trailer to the hitch and see how much it causes the truck hitch to sag. Measure the truck fenders again, too. Attach WDH at five links and remeasure fender height at axles. Use WDH chain links to adjust to level if at all possible. If successful, test drive to CAT scale and reweigh. While at CAT scale, do a reweigh with no WDH bars and calculate what weight is actually being transferred back to the steer axle by the WDH. Test drive some more on four lane expressway with 18 wheelers. If good, go home and celebrate. If not good, I'll examine the measurements and report back. I called the Curt Manufacturing Co., and their tech rep said he thought I would need a three inch difference between the ball height and the coupler just because I am towing with a 150. If that is true, I may need to buy a new shank that has a higher rise. But, I suspect that should I need to go up in ball height, I'll need to loosen the chains some to keep things level. My main goal is to get level and get a confident steering experience while staying under all my weight ratings. With the max tow package and 3,250 lbs. UNDER my truck's GCWR that ought to be possible.
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Old 05-14-2021, 05:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
I called the Curt Manufacturing Co., and their tech rep said he thought I would need a three inch difference between the ball height and the coupler just because I am towing with a 150.
If I'm understanding what he's saying, he's wrong. It does not matter that you have a half ton, the WDH will bring that rear fender measurement back up, but it's not a priority.

You're on the right path otherwise, just remember to focus on your truck front axle for weight transfer. You're not aiming for level with the links, you just want to return lost weight to the front axle. If you get that front fender measurement close to where you started with the trailer disconnected, the whole truck will likely look pretty much level. Make sure truck and trailer are loaded more or less how they will be on a trip. Then do a nice test drive.

As you said, report back here for more help.
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Old 05-14-2021, 06:38 PM   #12
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DougW. THANK YOU! In all of the WDH threads that I have ever read, I don't ever remember anyone saying that.
Your statement is exactly what it's all about. When you have too much weight on the rear end of the TV it lightens the front end up, causing loss of lateral control and it induces trailer sway. It's THE most important thing to accomplish. Making everything level is important, but not as important as steering control.

"Getting the proper weight on the front axel is what is the important part."
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Old 05-14-2021, 06:51 PM   #13
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The front axle loses weight when you drop the trailer on your truck. The WDH shifts some or all of that weight back. You are shifting weight to the front but you do not know how much. If you can get it close, that is fine. Even missing 200 lbs is not terrible. Pickups are made to ride with a load in the bed with some weight removed from the front. The WDH will also shift some TW to the trailer, so your actual TW may be a bit higher than you think.
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Old 05-15-2021, 03:24 PM   #14
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The primary answer on how much WD to apply is in your truck owners manual. This is from my 2019 F-150 manual:
When hooking-up a trailer using a
weight-distributing hitch, always use the
following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the
trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender. This is H1.
3. Attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle
without the weight-distributing bars
connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the
weight-distributing bars so that the
height of your vehicle's front wheel
opening on the fender is approximately
half the way down from H2, toward H1.
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Old 05-15-2021, 10:48 PM   #15
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WDH set up from 4Runner to Ram 1500

I traded my 2016 4Runner pulling a Rockwood 2016 Mini-light 1905 Trailer light weight 2895 to a Ram 1500 Big horn 5.7 hemi with payload of 1865 and max capacity of 10,900lbs 3.55 rear axle 6.4 bed

I have an Equalizer 4 point and when I set it up had truck back to level with WDH

Cat scale weights with full load for travel plus passengers and Bikes in bed of truck along with cat and her stuff.

With WDH bars off Steer Axle: 3020
Drive Axle: 3180
Trailer: 3080
Total: 9280
With WDH engaged Steer Axle: 3200
Drive Axle : 2900
Trailer 3200
Total: 9300
Had a good test today coming home from Desert town of Borrego Springs when we got to I-10 at Indio to Beaumont there were cross winds of up to 65 mph with a ton of big rigs and while I had to slow top 55 mph from my top towing speed in California of 61 trailer handled well, no more white knuckle like with the 4 Runner and it short week base
How does this set up look to Y”all.

Thanks and have a safe and great weekend
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Old 05-16-2021, 07:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fivebuccs View Post
I traded my 2016 4Runner pulling a Rockwood 2016 Mini-light 1905 Trailer light weight 2895 to a Ram 1500 Big horn 5.7 hemi with payload of 1865 and max capacity of 10,900lbs 3.55 rear axle 6.4 bed

I have an Equalizer 4 point and when I set it up had truck back to level with WDH

Cat scale weights with full load for travel plus passengers and Bikes in bed of truck along with cat and her stuff.

With WDH bars off Steer Axle: 3020
Drive Axle: 3180
Trailer: 3080
Total: 9280
With WDH engaged Steer Axle: 3200
Drive Axle : 2900
Trailer 3200
Total: 9300
Had a good test today coming home from Desert town of Borrego Springs when we got to I-10 at Indio to Beaumont there were cross winds of up to 65 mph with a ton of big rigs and while I had to slow top 55 mph from my top towing speed in California of 61 trailer handled well, no more white knuckle like with the 4 Runner and it short week base
How does this set up look to Y”all.

Thanks and have a safe and great weekend


If you are happy with how it drives it is probably good, the be sure check the weight of the steer axel without the trailer hitched. If it is near 3200 you have it set about right.
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Old 05-16-2021, 10:26 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SailorSam20500 View Post
The primary answer on how much WD to apply is in your truck owners manual. This is from my 2019 F-150 manual:
When hooking-up a trailer using a
weight-distributing hitch, always use the
following procedure:
1. Park the loaded vehicle, without the
trailer, on a level surface.
2. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender. This is H1.
3. Attach the loaded trailer to your vehicle
without the weight-distributing bars
connected.
4. Measure the height to the top of your
vehicle's front wheel opening on the
fender a second time. This is H2.
5. Install and adjust the tension in the
weight-distributing bars so that the
height of your vehicle's front wheel
opening on the fender is approximately
half the way down from H2, toward H1.
This is very interesting. My 2020 Ford Manual recommends bringing the distance from H2 to H1 with WDH down only ONE FOURTH the distance between H2 and H1. My original effort at this (with an admittedly too low hitch ball) had a delta/difference of 1 2/16 inches between H2 and H1. My WDH brought it down 4/16, which is not quite ONE FOURTH and certainly not ONE HALF. Hence the light steering issue. Will adjust my hitch ball down one "notch" from its current highest possible position and level out everything and remeasure. Plans still holding for this Thursday (5/20/21).
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Old 05-17-2021, 02:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Puma26RLSS View Post
This is very interesting. My 2020 Ford Manual recommends bringing the distance from H2 to H1 with WDH down only ONE FOURTH the distance between H2 and H1. My original effort at this (with an admittedly too low hitch ball) had a delta/difference of 1 2/16 inches between H2 and H1. My WDH brought it down 4/16, which is not quite ONE FOURTH and certainly not ONE HALF. Hence the light steering issue. Will adjust my hitch ball down one "notch" from its current highest possible position and level out everything and remeasure. Plans still holding for this Thursday (5/20/21).
You're on the right track. It can take a few tries to dial it in nicely. It's set right when the steering feels good and you're not porpoising going down the road.
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Old 05-21-2021, 10:45 PM   #19
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UPDATE. Progress on WDH set up. Did not get to the CAT scale this time but did follow the directions in the Ford manual requiring the measurement of the wheel well/wheel opening before loading trailer (H1), loaded trailer with full TW (H2), and after attaching the WDH. The goal as outlined in the manual was to bring the wheel well measurement after attaching the WDH ¼ of the way down from H2 back toward H1. I started with the hitch ball one setting lower than the max height (shank up) because I know that height was too high. The trailer was not level before. The tongue was just too high. Still, at that lower setting the hitch ball was still 3 inches higher than the coupler when the trailer was level. The WDH did not change the H2-H1 distance in the right direction, actually increasing the distance/delta. So, I dropped the hitch ball down to the third set of holes, the lowest it could go with the shank up. I already know that the highest setting with the shank down is too low, so this setting had to be the best this particular WDH (Curt model 17302) could do. At this hitch ball height, the ball was 1 ¾ inches higher than the level coupler at the start. My H2-H1 “delta” was only 5/16 inch. My WDH returned it/lowered the wheel well 2/16 inch. (2/16)/(5/16) = 2/5 which is greater than the ¼ required by the Ford manual. Success. So, we took it for a test ride on the expressways around Orlando in 17 mph winds and heavy traffic. Steering was solid, but sway was pretty pronounced. That had to be part wind even though my friction sway bars were tightened way down. I am ready to try a short trip from Orlando to Cedar Key in a couple of weeks. I’ll continue to assess this WDH. I know it is “old school”. I absolutely love the way this truck rides when not towing, and since my non towing is ¾ of the driving I do with the truck, I don’t want to do anything that would substantially/permanently change that, but I might want to consider an adjustable air bag suspension to firm up the ride some. I’ll hit the CAT scale on the way to Cedar Key with WDH and without. See what those numbers are. Feedback?
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Old 05-21-2021, 11:02 PM   #20
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I don’t think that hitch has sway control so you can look into adding that.
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