WDH F250 GEO PRO 20ft

[NJKris]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

Referenced in post #6. 2017 changed to not requiring a WDH.

Just opened your link to the manual for newer trucks. I'm always a model year behind the good stuff (2 model years in my case!). Like usual, that dealer does not know what he's talking about!

[llr]

Probably a liability issue but they should have a form you can sign. When I recently bought my grand design the dealer asked about hitches and asked me to sign a form that I am providing my own and they are not responsible.

I would not rely on the truck sway control except as a worst case help. If you have sway then increase the TW if possible or get a WDH with integrated sway control like Blue ox sway pro or equalizer 4pt.

I have never towed a horse trailer but looking at them the axles are so far back there really isn't much behind the pivot point so I doubt if sway is possible. TT axles are much more centered with a lot of trailer behind the pivot point.

[NJKris]

I would say he goes my Ford manual and try it without. Any issue with squat or sway, you can pick up a WDH at a better price and mount it yourself. I think he wants to use that fancy hitch he already has!

[Scottnweeze]

Originally Posted by hobienick

The ball alone will not prevent sway on the Anderson. It needs the chains connected to do that. Otherwise, it is just a very expensive ball.

You're incorrect. The ball handles the sway and the chains take care of the WD. Google is your friend:https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq...ion-hitch-work

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by Scottnweeze

You're incorrect. The ball handles the sway and the chains take care of the WD. Google is your friend:https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq...ion-hitch-work

The only reason I am engaging here is I would feel really bad if someone listened to you and got hurt or hurt someone else.

Yes, the ball has the friction material around the shank to dampen sway. However, if you do not use the chains there is no way to rotate the ball shank to utilize the friction material. The coupler alone does not positively lock on the ball. If it did a standard ball would not allow articulation.

Not only do the chains provide weight distribution, but they also rotate the ball/shank. This is how the friction material is engaged. If you ever disconnect your Anderson WDH at an angle you will notice you have to reconnect at a similar angle. The plate the chains attach to has rotated. Also, dud you ever wonder why the pin that holds the plate to the shank of the ball is such a large diameter? It's not just to keep it from falling down while driving. It positively engages the ball shank so the friction material can be used.

In the same spirit of snarkiness shown to me, basic observation skills are your friend.

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by Scottnweeze

You're incorrect. The ball handles the sway and the chains take care of the WD. Google is your friend:https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq...ion-hitch-work

Originally Posted by hobienick

The only reason I am engaging here is I would feel really bad if someone listened to you and got hurt or hurt someone else.

Yes, the ball has the friction material around the shank to dampen sway. However, if you do not use the chains there is no way to rotate the ball shank to utilize the friction material. The coupler alone does not positively lock on the ball. If it did a standard ball would not allow articulation.

Not only do the chains provide weight distribution, but they also rotate the ball/shank. This is how the friction material is engaged. If you ever disconnect your Anderson WDH at an angle you will notice you have to reconnect at a similar angle. The plate the chains attach to has rotated. Also, dud you ever wonder why the pin that holds the plate to the shank of the ball is such a large diameter? It's not just to keep it from falling down while driving. It positively engages the ball shank so the friction material can be used.

In the same spirit of snarkiness shown to me, basic observation skills are your friend.

Why not just load the trailer correctly so it doesn't sway?

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

Why not just load the trailer correctly so it doesn't sway?

That is the best solution. I needed the weight distribution. Sway control came with it.

[NJKris]

In the same spirit of snarkiness shown to me, basic observation skills are your friend.

In the spirit of maintaining peace, I gotta say as a 3rd party reader I did not detect snarkiness. There is no reason for disagreement to be interpreted as snarky here.

[hobienick]

Fair enough. I hear the comment "google is your friend" often and usually it is not meant in a positive way. Itf I took it in a way it was not intended I apologize for my snarkiness. My primary objective was to educate so people do not misuse the equipment. I could have taken a more mature approach.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by Scottnweeze

You're incorrect. The ball handles the sway and the chains take care of the WD. Google is your friend:https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq...ion-hitch-work

The ball does handle the sway but not without the chains attached .

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by MR.M

The ball does handle the sway but not without the chains attached .

This makes no sense.

So if the ball handles the sway, doesn't every ball on a hitch handle sway, whether if its a WDH or not?

"...but not without the chains attached."

So the chains are a must have to help handle the sway?
Without them, is there any sway control?
If not, wouldn't the chains handle the sway, not the ball?

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

This makes no sense.

So if the ball handles the sway, doesn't every ball on a hitch handle sway, whether if its a WDH or not?

"...but not without the chains attached."

So the chains are a must have to help handle the sway?
Without them, is there any sway control?
If not, wouldn't the chains handle the sway, not the ball?

The chains must be used to control sway. The ball passes through the housing with part of the shank protruding below the housing. On the shank below the housing there is a transverse hole for a pin to pass through. The plate the chains attach to has a hole in the center of it that fits over the bottom end of the shank. It too has transverse holes in it for a pin.

When the plate is in place and the pin inserted the plate and ball are one unit. Inside the housing, surround the shank, is friction material. The ball/shank/plate unot can rotate in this material. The friction this material provides resists the rotation, thus reducing sway. If the sway is severe enough it can still occur as with any friction sway dampener.

So, without the chains connected there is nothing to turn the ball in the friction material. The tension of the chains also provides weight distribution.

It is an effective system that is simple, light, and clean.

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by hobienick

The chains must be used to control sway. The ball passes through the housing with part of the shank protruding below the housing. On the shank below the housing there is a transverse hole for a pin to pass through. The plate the chains attach to has a hole in the center of it that fits over the bottom end of the shank. It too has transverse holes in it for a pin.

When the plate is in place and the pin inserted the plate and ball are one unit. Inside the housing, surround the shank, is friction material. The ball/shank/plate unot can rotate in this material. The friction this material provides resists the rotation, thus reducing sway. If the sway is severe enough it can still occur as with any friction sway dampener.

So, without the chains connected there is nothing to turn the ball in the friction material. The tension of the chains also provides weight distribution.

It is an effective system that is simple, light, and clean.

So, the chains and the plate do all the work for sway. The ball does nothing more than give the trailer something to attach to the truck....like every other ball on a hitch.

[NavyLCDR]

In order for the ball of any hitch to provide sway control, the coupler on the trailer would have to be modified to prevent it from freely rotating on the ball. I have never seen any coupler on any trailer modified to keep it from freely rotating on the ball.

Call this snarky if you want, but it is just common sense that the ball cannot provide sway control as long as the coupler can rotate freely on it.

[hobienick]

Just to clear up any misunderstanding about this thread. I never said the ball alone prevented sway. I said you had to use the chains to prevent sway. In fact, I said when not using the chains the hitch was just a regular hitch.

I have explained how this system works. Please refer to my previous post. When the chains are connected, the ball is prevented from articulating in the coupler.

In short, you have to fully connect the coupler and chains in order to get sway or weight distribution. For more detailed information feel free to contact Andersen.

[hobienick]

Originally Posted by NavyLCDR

In order for the ball of any hitch to provide sway control, the coupler on the trailer would have to be modified to prevent it from freely rotating on the ball. I have never seen any coupler on any trailer modified to keep it from freely rotating on the ball.

Call this snarky if you want, but it is just common sense that the ball cannot provide sway control as long as the coupler can rotate freely on it.

The snarky reference was aimed at the person who told me to use google. Since you and I both said the same thing about the ball I do not see how I would interpret you comment as snarky.

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

This makes no sense.

So if the ball handles the sway, doesn't every ball on a hitch handle sway, whether if its a WDH or not?

"...but not without the chains attached."

So the chains are a must have to help handle the sway?
Without them, is there any sway control?
If not, wouldn't the chains handle the sway, not the ball?

If you knew how the Andersen WHD works you would understand . The ball shank has breaking material installed then a plate on the bottom of the shank attaches to the chains . the ball turns with the trailer not like a normal ball where the hitch turns on the ball . this action of the ball shank turning with the TT with the breaking material gives is it's sway control . without the bottom plate and chains it acts like any other ball and no sway control . go look up the Andersen WDH watch the video then you will understand .

[MR.M]

Originally Posted by clarkbre

So, the chains and the plate do all the work for sway. The ball does nothing more than give the trailer something to attach to the truck....like every other ball on a hitch.

No the ball shank has breaking material with out the plate and chains the coupler would just rotate on the ball . with the chains and bottom plate for the ball shank with the added breaking material on the ball shanks give it it's anti sway action . not the chains and plate . but without the chains and plate then the coupler just rotale on the ball with the chains and plate the ball rotates with the tt and the breaking material gives the sway control

[Bhrava]

You don't Need or Require Weight Distribution with the F250/350, but you do need sway control. Do NOT rely on the built in sway "control" because it only works AFTER sway has kicked in. You are 100% better off stopping sway before it can even begin and the only way is with a 4 point sway control WDH.

For $700 you can buy a really GOOD one, Blue Ox, Equilizer, etc, but Husky? Might as well give the money to a drunk.

I did tow my 274 BH with my F350 with and without the WDH. For weight transfer it was negligible, hardly moved a thing, but sway prevention, 100% spot on, without I can feel every moment of the trailer, with it on, trailer barely budged, like wasn't even there.

[clarkbre]

Originally Posted by Bhrava

You don't Need or Require Weight Distribution with the F250/350, but you do need sway control. Do NOT rely on the built in sway "control" because it only works AFTER sway has kicked in. You are 100% better off stopping sway before it can even begin and the only way is with a 4 point sway control WDH.

For $700 you can buy a really GOOD one, Blue Ox, Equilizer, etc, but Husky? Might as well give the money to a drunk.

I did tow my 274 BH with my F350 with and without the WDH. For weight transfer it was negligible, hardly moved a thing, but sway prevention, 100% spot on, without I can feel every moment of the trailer, with it on, trailer barely budged, like wasn't even there.

With the OP's proposed trailer, I don't see a dire need for an extravagant sway control system. Both GEO pros listed in the 20' range have a 12.5%+ tongue weight from the factory. With propane, batteries and gear stowed up front, this would add to more tongue weight creating even more stability. Also with the proposed tow vehicle's length and weight compared to the shorter length of the trailer, there is a valid argument that the OP has way too much truck for the job.

With that truck, I wouldn't hesitate using nothing more than a ball without the added expense of a wdh and sway control. I would advise to be mindful of loading the trailer to ensure a healthy tongue weight.

This video is a great visual of how trailer sway affects the tow vehicle and the importance of proper weight placement of gear within the trailer.

Tongue Weight Demonstration

I do have to also ask, why the hate on Husky? Is it the whole product line that you've had bad experiences or just being a typical forum parrot? Your statement that if buying a Husky hitch, you're better off giving money to a drunk is hilarious! You've got a FR trailer....your $$$$ should have funded a crackhouse.