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Old 08-09-2021, 07:19 PM   #61
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Originally Posted by NJKris View Post
Customer service replied again this morning, told me to flip the outer link plate with the studs upside down. I guess this result in less of a moment arm (lever). Also clarified they don't recommend shimming gap caused by bow(what I was struggling with), but rather any gap between bottom bolt and bottom of frame. As I mentioned, any gap is minimal, but obviously enough to allow rotation to a degree. I'll try to tap something in there without damaging bolt threads.
I've been having the same problem for a few years, even with the good torque. I tried initially to fill the gap between the thread and the frame with rubber, but eventually it still started to move. When it moved the L bracket start to bite a little bit more on the arm and there is no way back.

So I did some research and here's what I did. First, to bend the plate with the stud back in place, I pre-heat it with MAP gas. Although it may alter tempering (if there is any) it's better than having it break because it is brittle or due to fatigue. So having a straight plated will make a better contact with the frame.

Second, there is a small gap between the bolt and the frame. I could push a 1/8 of a inch thick plate of aluminium. You say you don't want to damage the bolt thread. Please note that this part of the thread will never engage in the nut thread: it is on top or under the frame. And aluminium is softer than steel, so it would be taking most of the damage.

I did not travel a lot with this setup (only a weekend) but so far so good.

I also cheat and add a little bit of anti-seize there. This is not recommended because it defeats the anti-sway function, but there seems to be enough friction on my specific setup. Your milleage may vary...

Also, with seasonal temperature change, my guess is that it can loosen. So next year I'll just retorque it at the beginning of season to remove the temperature effect...

Good luck!
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Old 08-09-2021, 07:20 PM   #62
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Thanks data! I'll check them out. This week I'm going to try to remount with outer stud plate upside down, and shim between lower bolt and bottom of frame. Heading all the way to Indiana and back, I'll advise how it went.
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Old 08-09-2021, 09:32 PM   #63
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my vote is drill a hole or weld it on.

I will be drilling in a few days but my frame member is 10 inch aluminum so I can't even use the clamp on style. but seriously never understood the half way of installing option of wd hitches
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Old 08-09-2021, 10:11 PM   #64
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While you are at it add this....

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...5-01-5150.html
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Old 08-09-2021, 10:33 PM   #65
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I torqued L brackets to align with the spring bar angle. Has a fairly large angle off of vertical. No movement in over 20k miles.
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:24 AM   #66
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Kris,
Mine look just like yours, a little canted, but not bad. We have over 28.000 miles on this camper with these bars and brackets. It still tracks like the day I installed them. I think "NO WORRY". If you want a pic holler!
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I agree. I've experienced the same slight tilting of L brackets, with thousands of miles of safe towing. I really don't see the problem.
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:34 AM   #67
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I loosened the l bracket just a tad with trl hooked up drove around the block then tightened brackets as that set them to the angle they wanted to run at. equalizers 1000 they set themselves to the angle they like . 2 trips from fl. to ca , 1across Northan to Washington down ca back to az. no problems . the brackets are angled back a little.
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Old 08-10-2021, 09:54 AM   #68
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My memory isn’t great,
So
Attachment 260315
Dang it, after seeing this post the dealer installed mine wrong. After about 6 months of use, I noticed both sides were loose one time before a trip and retightened. Mine does have a gap between the bottom bolt and frame though. I will have to download the manual and ensure that I reinstall the correct way.
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Old 08-10-2021, 10:35 AM   #69
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I told the guy it's ridiculous I should have to be shimming their bendy link plates, and trying to jury rig stuff to make it work right. I'll see how he responds to my email tomorrow. Either they send me new link plates, or the torch review goes up. Especially if nobody responds this has happened to them as well.
This is happening to me too, E2 Hitch, L-bracket wanders back up to 1/2", only on the right side of frame. My L-brackets are parallel to frame with no deviations. I wondered if mine had something to do with making a tight TV turn while backing TT, as the spring arm is only flat at the ends and rounds towards the hitch. Instructions say a 3" min. spring arm overhang from the l-brackets. I've loosened and reattached many times, same results, now I just hammer the L-bracket back into place whenever I reattach the TT. Doesn't seem to effect efficiency. I guess I could tack-weld the L-bracket if I was more concerned.
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Old 08-10-2021, 01:23 PM   #70
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I have an Equalizer WDH and my L-brackets haven't moved in six years. But if they did, as a former bridge repair guy I'd have no problem using a tack weld to hold them in place. If you plan on using a tack weld, as a former bridge engineer I'd recommend a horizontal tack weld no more than 1/2" long located at the top and bottom corners of the frame channel flanges. Avoid vertical welds as these would be perpendicular to the stress lines in the frame and would reduce the ultimate capacity of the frame.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:29 PM   #71
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I use a piece of wood on the bottom of the L bracket. When you are torqueing the bolts it starts to bow and you loose the a lot of the surface friction. A 2 inch or how ever thick your frame is block of wood in the gap under the bolt. It will give a little so you get the correct torque but it will stop it from bowing. Actually Equalizer told me to do this when I noticed a bow on my first trailer years ago on the initial set up.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:32 PM   #72
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This is why I will not use those. Right from the link you posted:
Quote:
Note: Using the sway bracket jackets on your sway-control brackets may slightly diminish the effectiveness of your Equal-i-zer system's integrated sway control. Although minimizing the steel-on-steel contact eliminates some of the noise that occurs when towing with the Equal-i-zer, it also limits the friction created when sway occurs and, therefore, the effectiveness of the integrated sway control.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:39 PM   #73
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The pads are a preference. I have always used them and like them. Sway control is to my liking.
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:51 PM   #74
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The pads are a preference. I have always used them and like them. Sway control is to my liking.
X2.
Over 20,000 miles with the pads and have had no issues. Keeps the noise down a little.
Good adjustment, a little grease once in awhile, and have had no problems.
My E2 has been great!
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Old 08-10-2021, 05:57 PM   #75
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X2.
Over 20,000 miles with the pads and have had no issues. Keeps the noise down a little.
Good adjustment, a little grease once in awhile, and have had no problems.
My E2 has been great!
X3. With a proper setup sway should be minimal or non-existent. I did just fine without sway control on our previous Curt hitch.
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:44 PM   #76
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This is why I will not use those. Right from the link you posted:
I installed the sway bracket jackets about three years ago after three years without them. Since installing them I have experienced no noticeable reduction in sway control, but have experienced substantial reduction in slow-turn-movements noise. I wouldn't be without them.
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Old 08-10-2021, 06:47 PM   #77
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Again X2.
I would not be without them.
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Old 08-11-2021, 08:56 PM   #78
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Thanks data! I'll check them out. This week I'm going to try to remount with outer stud plate upside down, and shim between lower bolt and bottom of frame. Heading all the way to Indiana and back, I'll advise how it went.
Kris - removed the inside bar, reversed it then used a 1/2" threaded rod plus two washers hoping this will remove the 'arc' and facilitate all the clamping pressure on the frame. Just going to do one side for now. In photo I show the bottom measurement is 'slightly' under 2" to prevent the reverse problem of an induced flair.

Ron
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Old 08-11-2021, 09:17 PM   #79
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Interesting fix Ron.
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