WDH or not

[HappyCamper1962]

Originally Posted by timfromma

I think of a WDH like an insurance policy. If it helps you avoid even one dangerous or even deadly scenario then it's well worth it.

x2 definitely. I was told using my Equalizer for the last two trailers I've owned (downsizing) was "overkill" and not necessary. No, thank you for that advice, I choose to keep my Equalizer system and move it from trailer to trailer, even the smallest ones, to be as safe as possible.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by Dustyhd

A sway problem should be resolved not masked by a WDH with sway control. There are many towing combinations that have ample sway stability with they’re critical speeds well above highway speeds that don’t need sway control or a WDH. The average consumer and many here on these forums ( even many that hand out advice) don’t understand the physics well enough to be able to identify the cause and fix a sway problem themselves. The sway control of a WDH should only be used as a extra measure of safety not a primary solution for sway.

I agree, I currently have no sway control on my rig, just the WDH.
We have no issues what so ever with sway.
Passing tractor/trailers may suck the trailer over slightly but soon as you're past the bow wave it tracks in straight again. High winds gusting across the highway being interrupted by buildings or trucks, again, a slight push out of alignment then it tracks in again.

I have a sway bar which I may install this winter just to give my rig that extra insurance for a just-in-case scenario but I have no qualms about my set-up. My TT is a joy to tow no white knuckles here, same with the better half, she fights to get behind the wheel.

My concern now is my tyres which are 6 years old, do I replace them or not, but that is another topic altogether which has been beaten to death on these forums!

Our TT is 35' with a tongue weight of 950#, a beefed up F150 and a primary driver with over 2,000,000 safe driving kilometres (other than a couple of moose incidents).
Just set-up your TV/TT combo properly and it will be a joy to drive.

Geoff
.

[katkt]

Originally Posted by wabakami

I agree, I currently have no sway control on my rig, just the WDH.
We have no issues what so ever with sway.
Passing tractor/trailers may suck the trailer over slightly but soon as you're past the bow wave it tracks in straight again. High winds gusting across the highway being interrupted by buildings or trucks, again, a slight push out of alignment then it tracks in again.

I have a sway bar which I may install this winter just to give my rig that extra insurance for a just-in-case scenario but I have no qualms about my set-up. My TT is a joy to tow no white knuckles here, same with the better half, she fights to get behind the wheel.

My concern now is my tyres which are 6 years old, do I replace them or not, but that is another topic altogether which has been beaten to death on these forums!

Our TT is 35' with a tongue weight of 950#, a beefed up F150 and a primary driver with over 2,000,000 safe driving kilometres (other than a couple of moose incidents).
Just set-up your TV/TT combo properly and it will be a joy to drive.

Geoff
.

Dragging a very similar set up. I’ve tweaked my F150, and TW is right where you are. I’m about 32’ hitch to spare tire. Same reaction as far as cause, effect, and back to straight again. My Husky Centerline is an all in one hitch, so the SC is handled already.

Re: The tires.
Same “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” philosophy applies.
I was on the fence at 3 years, and chose to put new tires on, mostly because it was about $350 and when I wanted to do it, compared to possibly $3000 and a lot of inconvenience if something comes apart, and trashes the under side of the bathroom or the side of the trailer. Stuff happens, so hedge your bets.
Age, abuse, improper inflation seems to be the leading causes of tire failure. I’d put overloading the trailer in the tire abuse category.
I stepped up to a better rated tire, also. Stock were C rated, max pressure of 50 psi. I went to an E rated tire, and I’ve inflated them to the manufacturers load/inflation recommendation. It keeps me under 65psi on the 5 lug aluminum rims. So far, the preliminary results with newer better rated tires on both the TV and TT is a big improvement.
I also had another trailer needing good rubber, so the 3 yr olds went on it. That helped make the decision easier.

[wabakami]

Originally Posted by katkt

Dragging a very similar set up. I’ve tweaked my F150, and TW is right where you are. I’m about 32’ hitch to spare tire. Same reaction as far as cause, effect, and back to straight again. My Husky Centerline is an all in one hitch, so the SC is handled already.

Re: The tires.
Same “ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” philosophy applies.
I was on the fence at 3 years, and chose to put new tires on, mostly because it was about $350 and when I wanted to do it, compared to possibly $3000 and a lot of inconvenience if something comes apart, and trashes the under side of the bathroom or the side of the trailer. Stuff happens, so hedge your bets.
Age, abuse, improper inflation seems to be the leading causes of tire failure. I’d put overloading the trailer in the tire abuse category.
I stepped up to a better rated tire, also. Stock were C rated, max pressure of 50 psi. I went to an E rated tire, and I’ve inflated them to the manufacturers load/inflation recommendation. It keeps me under 65psi on the 5 lug aluminum rims. So far, the preliminary results with newer better rated tires on both the TV and TT is a big improvement.
I also had another trailer needing good rubber, so the 3 yr olds went on it. That helped make the decision easier.

Katkt
Good to hear your rig tracks well.

The tyres, yes, I will be replacing them come spring, I figured going up to D's but maybe E's and run 60 - 70# in them to soften the ride.

It's a shame I have to worry about them at this time as they probably only have 8 or 10,000km on them, I'm in the resort industry, you don't usually get much time off during the warm weather.

Have a great Monday,

Geoff
.

[thebrakeman]

Your diesel friend is welcome to their opinion, but they will find nothing to back up the opinion that they don't need a WDH. Sway control is another question. Remember, these are 2 systems, which today are often combined into 1. Even if I did agree that the electronic sway control is a good replacement for a mechanical sway control, it's a leap to therefore say you don't need a WDH either.

Most OEMs want you using a WDH when TW exceeds 500 lbs. Not to reduce the rear-end squat (600 lbs on an F350 won't move the rear much), but to return the lost weight to the front wheels. An F150 and F350 of the same dimensions (if there were such a thing) would lose the same amount of front weight due to a 600 lbs load. Regardless of how the suspension reacts, you need to put that weight back on the front wheels. The F350 has more bulk, so the effect of the lost weight may not be as dramatic. But check the Ford Towing Guide. All the way through SuperDuty, they want a WDH when TW exceeds 500 lbs.

For sway control (integrated or not), that is more subjective. Most OEMs are silent on the issue. For most these days, a WDH integrated sway control doesn't cost much more than a basic WDH setup, and it's just as easy (or easier) to engage. So it's really a no-brainer if you already know you need a WDH for the weight issue. An as far as the electronic nanny sway control, your owner's manual already tells the answer. It helps control small issue, but if you needed to do an emergency lane change, you will be in big trouble without a mechanical sway control system.

To me, the only real question is for those who truly don't need a WDH (those with less than 500 lbs TW). For these, they should decide if they want the added insurance provided by a bolt-on friction sway controller.

For you, with 6750 lbs of trailer (probably 850 lbs TW?), you definitely need a WDH, and you might as well use what you already have, with integrated sway control.

[Kaadk]

Getting back to the original question, assuming you already had a WDH with your trailer that you used with your F150, since you already have it, why would you not use it with the F350? I mean, you have it already anyways, so it's not like it's costing you anything.

[JohnD10]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

Getting back to the original question, assuming you already had a WDH with your trailer that you used with your F150, since you already have it, why would you not use it with the F350? I mean, you have it already anyways, so it's not like it's costing you anything.

Very good point indeed!

[Brewhedd]

Bought the 3500 for a future upgrade. I never felt relaxed towing the 2702 Rockwood, which is about 6000lbs or so loaded, with the prior 1500. I always used an Equalizer hitch which helped tremendously. When I towed with the 3500 I could still feel a very small amount of sway. Upgraded tires on the TT would probably eliminate that completely but since the tires are relatively new I installed the Equalizer. Now I feel zero sway. After towing with both trucks I recommend anyone planning to tow over 5000 lbs buy a 3/4 ton truck.

[thebrakeman]

Hmmm...3/4-ton is a lot of truck for a little bit of trailer. I suspect you had some unknown issue with your 1500 setup. But your experience is your experience.

[katkt]

Originally Posted by Kaadk

Getting back to the original question, assuming you already had a WDH with your trailer that you used with your F150, since you already have it, why would you not use it with the F350? I mean, you have it already anyways, so it's not like it's costing you anything.

Is the recommendation for a WDH in your owners manual, the same for an F150, as it is for a F350? I’d go by that.


I would suspect there is a reason why Ford doesn’t recommend a WDH below a certain trailer weight, but says you need one, when the TW exceeds #500. The #500 is the cut off on my 150. IIRC. #4000 is the weight Ford recommends not using a WDH below.

A quick google for the xxxx F350 Trailer Towing Guide, would probably tell you if the weight parameters are the same or different. I would think they would be different. The trucks weigh more, and have a stiffer suspension. In a perfect world, it would follow that as you go up in size, the recommends and requireds would change also. IE, Ford would like you to not use a WDH, if the trailer weighed less then #4000 + x. “X” being the difference between the weight carrying abilities of a 150, versus a 350. For the sake of the example, say Ford doesn’t want you using a WDH if the trailer weighs less then #6000. Ford may want a certain amount of weight present on the drive axle.

A WDH, simply redistributes the weight the rear axle is carry, to both the trailer axle(s), and the front axle. If a suspension is rigid enough, there won’t be much if any squat. The squat, being the seesaw effect, that lifts the weight off of the front axle, as the weight behind the rear axle pushes down. The truck frame uses the rear axle/suspension as a pivot point, as weight is hung on the hitch.

A certain amount of weight needs to be present at the drive axle, for things to operate correctly. Using a WDH in a situation where it wasn’t needed, may adversely affect traction.

It’s JMHO, but as long as the the truck can handle the load w/o a WDH, I’m not sure I’d use one unless, Ford thought it would be acceptable.

[Brewhedd]

Originally Posted by thebrakeman

Hmmm...3/4-ton is a lot of truck for a little bit of trailer. I suspect you had some unknown issue with your 1500 setup. But your experience is your experience.

If you are replying to me, I have a 1 ton dually. I didn't have any unknown issues. The issues are pretty common, RV tires on the edge of their load rating and original equipment vehicle tires designed for a smooth ride. A standard 1/2 ton truck pulling a 6000 lb plus billboard down a highway is going to experience sway. As for the OP's question, I still use the equalizer even with a 1 ton.

[TheWolfPaq82]

Originally Posted by Relder

I recently spoke with a person who is towing his TT ( 9500 lbs ) behind his 3/4 ton diesel powered truck that is equipped with a anti sway system. I replaced my 2014 F-150 3.5 EB with a 2018 F-350 super duty pulling a 2018 Rockwood 2504s mini lite (6750 lbs). The 350 has a factory installed anti sway system. This person made the comment that I really didn't need to also use my equalizer WDH as the new truck can handle my trailer with no sway issues. He stated that he hasn't used a WDH for years and has never had a problem with sway. Agree or Not is my question.

I'm running pretty close to what you have. 2018 Cherokee 36' and loaded to 9700-9900# pulled by 2014 GMC 2500HD diesel. I pulled it once to dealer without hooking up the WDH/Anti-sway and about a 8 mile drive. I'll never do that again. I wouldn't even fathom taking it on the highway or interstate without the WDH hooked up.

[Dustyhd]

I’ve pulled a 8k TT over 12,000 miles with just a WDH with no sway control with a 06 2500 Silverado. The trailer would also tow just fine without the WDH at highway speeds. I tow the same trailer now with a Titan XD and no problems towing with no WDH or sway control if needed, With that said I still attach my Equalizer hitch with very little tension on the bars. Front and rear heights change with WDH is pretty much nothing. What this says is that it really depends on the trailer and how it handles that allows no WDH or sway control.

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by katkt

Is the recommendation for a WDH in your owners manual, the same for an F150, as it is for a F350? I’d go by that.


I would suspect there is a reason why Ford doesn’t recommend a WDH below a certain trailer weight, but says you need one, when the TW exceeds #500. The #500 is the cut off on my 150. IIRC. #4000 is the weight Ford recommends not using a WDH below.

A quick google for the xxxx F350 Trailer Towing Guide, would probably tell you if the weight parameters are the same or different. I would think they would be different. The trucks weigh more, and have a stiffer suspension. In a perfect world, it would follow that as you go up in size, the recommends and requireds would change also. IE, Ford would like you to not use a WDH, if the trailer weighed less then #4000 + x. “X” being the difference between the weight carrying abilities of a 150, versus a 350. For the sake of the example, say Ford doesn’t want you using a WDH if the trailer weighs less then #6000. Ford may want a certain amount of weight present on the drive axle.

A WDH, simply redistributes the weight the rear axle is carry, to both the trailer axle(s), and the front axle. If a suspension is rigid enough, there won’t be much if any squat. The squat, being the seesaw effect, that lifts the weight off of the front axle, as the weight behind the rear axle pushes down. The truck frame uses the rear axle/suspension as a pivot point, as weight is hung on the hitch.

A certain amount of weight needs to be present at the drive axle, for things to operate correctly. Using a WDH in a situation where it wasn’t needed, may adversely affect traction.

It’s JMHO, but as long as the the truck can handle the load w/o a WDH, I’m not sure I’d use one unless, Ford thought it would be acceptable.

The only thing I see about that in my F250 manual is that the rear bumper shouldn't be higher with the WDH hooked up than without. (I.e. like you said, you don't want to take weight off the drive axle). I don't see anywhere that they say you absolutely shouldn't use one under a certain weight.

My intention with my comment wasn't to suggest the OP has to force weight forward. I just wanted to point out that since they had it anyways, once it was setup correctly, why wouldn't you use it? When I had my TT, it was easy to adjust my weight carrying depending on which link I used on my chain. The OP could very easily hook it up with little or no weight distribution, but would still benefit from the Anti-sway bars being engaged. I haven't setup an Equalizer style hitch, but I assume the same can be achieved, setup for little to no weight distribution depending on the needs of the vehicle, but still benefit from the anti-sway.

[katkt]

I think a TT can always use a little sway control. I don’t see a down side to it.

[str8t six]

relder, so did you decide on using a anti sway or not?

as far as having a tire blow out causing sway, it may but at that point i would want to pull over and find out whats going on anyway.

[Tanderson18]

i have a 2017 f350 but i am pulling 2 x what you are, i dont think you need a wdh but as far as i am concerned a anti sway bar is never a bad investment. sway is not your truck swaying but your trailer. if you load your trailer right you wont have sway.

[Code13]

Another item I think that may have been overlooked.....most tow vehicle hitches are rated one max weight without a WDH and another higher weight max with a WDH. This varies depending on your specific hitch and typically has a sticker or it is stamped with this information.



For example:

Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs.



Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.


Reference:
https://www.drawtite-hitches.com/lea...towing-classes


Personally I have a duelly truck with a class V hitch and pull about a 10,000 pound loaded trailer. I do not use my WDH for in town local towing but do any time I plan to go on the highway or local mountain roads. Pays to take the extra few minutes hooking up to ensure I have that extra stability in case something goes wrong and I need to maneuver quickly or have a tire blow out.

[Kaadk]

Originally Posted by Code13

Another item I think that may have been overlooked.....most tow vehicle hitches are rated one max weight without a WDH and another higher weight max with a WDH. This varies depending on your specific hitch and typically has a sticker or it is stamped with this information.



For example:

Class III hitches used as weight carrying are rated up to 6000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 600 lbs.



Class III hitches used for weight distributing are rated up to 10,000 lbs. gross trailer weight (GTW) with a maximum trailer tongue weight (TW) of 1000 lbs.


Reference:
https://www.drawtite-hitches.com/lea...towing-classes


Personally I have a duelly truck with a class V hitch and pull about a 10,000 pound loaded trailer. I do not use my WDH for in town local towing but do any time I plan to go on the highway or local mountain roads. Pays to take the extra few minutes hooking up to ensure I have that extra stability in case something goes wrong and I need to maneuver quickly or have a tire blow out.

Yeah, I thought that too, but the Ford specs give the same numbers for weight carrying and weight distributing on my F250.

[sunnman]

You never think you need something g while it’s working, it’s that one time it doesn’t that you notice. With the cost of the TT and TV, what’s another few hundred bucks on a hitch to be safe?