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Old 05-28-2019, 09:31 AM   #61
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You are right. I had been looking at the 2106 towing guide since that was my vehicle year and the F250 is listed at 850lb, but for 2017 F250 diesel it lists 1800lb. Wow, they really upped the numbers in one year. And it's still 1500lb for the gaser.
Yeah, they said it was due to the new frame. When they made the body aluminum, it was a lot lighter, so they put all of that weight into the redesigned frame. I just got back from a weekend in Key Largo FL, 20-30 mph winds and it still towed great with no to very little sway. Kind of hard not to sway a little bit when the crosswind is hitting you at 20-30 mph. I tried 3 different speeds towing, 65, 70 and 75. I got the same MPG at all 3 speeds and it towed exactly the same. Averaged the MPG over 10 miles each speed on the flat Turnpike. When I dropped down to 60 due to the speed limit, it gained almost 1 MPG.
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Old 05-28-2019, 07:52 PM   #62
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You should set your receiver height so that the ball is at the same height as the trailer coupler when the trailer is level. The more the ball sags from that height when hitched, the more force the WDH bars/chains apply to return the ball to that height.

Fred W
I check the height and it the same.But when I hook up it sag a bit would it be safe to raise the ball one hole
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Old 06-04-2019, 08:38 AM   #63
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I pulled my 4,800# TT with my Frontier -- and a WDH. All the specs were barely within limits without the WDH (before I learned the 2/3rds rule-of-thumb of not exceeding 2/3 of capacity). I can't imagine trying to pull it without the WDH.

Since then, I've upgraded to a Titan, easily coming in under 2/3 capacity -- but still use the WDH -- and I can barely tell the trailer's back there...

I do leave them off when I move it around the property when I re-position for something, but I won't take it out without the full safety net. To me, it's part of the (safety) system, like the sway bar -- for all the reasons many people replied here with.
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Old 06-04-2019, 09:08 AM   #64
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What's this " 2/3rds rule-of-thumb of not exceeding 2/3 of capacity" thing? Never heard of it.

The manufacturers listed capacity already includes a safety factor to cover driving along highway speeds, hitting bumps, etc. You can also see a bit of a safety factor on capacity vs axle weight limits that assumes the cargo is not perfectly placed. Now maybe if you plan on putting the cargo to the limit and driving it around for a business for every mile you may have an issue eventually. Or perhaps many people are very poor estimators of what their stuff actually weighs but I see no reason to add an extra large safety factor.
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:27 PM   #65
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I heard from a couple of folks that it's safest to try and stay under 2/3rds of the rated capacity. I can't say it was authoritative, and I didn't see it written down. I just assumed it was a "thing" that everyone followed (being brand new here). Yes, I know what they say about believing everything you hear, but it sounded reasonable to me. Same people said to add around 1,000# (ish) for cargo when you're fully packed up...

So, since my towing capacity on my Titan is around 9,000+ and my TT is 6,000# (loaded) -- I figure that's a good (safe and practical) ratio.

I take it back if it's not a "rule-of-thumb" but it's one that I feel good about so I'll stick it on *my* finger... ;-)
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Old 06-05-2019, 02:50 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Michael in Georgetown View Post
I heard from a couple of folks that it's safest to try and stay under 2/3rds of the rated capacity. I can't say it was authoritative, and I didn't see it written down. I just assumed it was a "thing" that everyone followed (being brand new here). Yes, I know what they say about believing everything you hear, but it sounded reasonable to me. Same people said to add around 1,000# (ish) for cargo when you're fully packed up...

So, since my towing capacity on my Titan is around 9,000+ and my TT is 6,000# (loaded) -- I figure that's a good (safe and practical) ratio.

I take it back if it's not a "rule-of-thumb" but it's one that I feel good about so I'll stick it on *my* finger... ;-)
Good thinking on your part; unfortunaly, most on here think weight ratings are just 'lawyer talk' and its OK to go 10-20% over
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:01 PM   #67
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Originally Posted by Michael in Georgetown View Post
I heard from a couple of folks that it's safest to try and stay under 2/3rds of the rated capacity. I can't say it was authoritative, and I didn't see it written down. I just assumed it was a "thing" that everyone followed (being brand new here). Yes, I know what they say about believing everything you hear, but it sounded reasonable to me. Same people said to add around 1,000# (ish) for cargo when you're fully packed up...

So, since my towing capacity on my Titan is around 9,000+ and my TT is 6,000# (loaded) -- I figure that's a good (safe and practical) ratio.

I take it back if it's not a "rule-of-thumb" but it's one that I feel good about so I'll stick it on *my* finger... ;-)
Sorry, I thought you were referring to cargo capacity. For towing capacity it can make sense to be under manufacturer numbers. The manufacturers seem to jack up towing capacity based on hp for a given vehicle. I have an F-150 with 325 hp so they give 12000 lb towing capacity. My brother has similar truck and tows around 7000 lb and has had brake issues in the rocky mtns. I wouldn't pull more than 8000-9000 lb or so with my truck in Florida and maybe 7000 lb out west. But if I had the 2.7 l engine and they said 7000 lb towing capacity I might do close to the 7000 lb since the brakes are the same. Might be unhappy on the uphill but its not a safety issue.
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Old 06-05-2019, 03:37 PM   #68
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Roger that. Perhaps I miss-framed it as a safety thing, and not a practical rule-of-thumb-advice thing, subject to a multitude of various factors...

...and still getting all the lingo down (just learned what DW/DH stood for a few minutes ago!).
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Old 06-06-2019, 04:38 AM   #69
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Originally Posted by jwfrede View Post
... For towing capacity it can make sense to be under manufacturer numbers. The manufacturers seem to jack up towing capacity based on hp for a given vehicle. ...


http://www.trucktrend.com/how-to/tow...s-the-standard
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Old 06-06-2019, 06:24 AM   #70
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Thanks. Just did a quick read. The brake test is not adequate. They need to add repeated braking to test brake fade. I remember reading Motor Trend and Car and Driver years ago and they always had brake fade tests and comments. Not that one would drive a truck and trailer like that but driving in the mountains is a frequent occurrence for most campers.

They do have some handling tests but there should be some more focus on safety.
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:10 PM   #71
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I worked part time for a local RV dealership in the Atlanta area for about 6 years. I saw quite a few new tag-a-longs and fifth wheels being brought in from the factory in Indiana. Non of these trucks had a WDH.
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:55 PM   #72
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I worked part time for a local RV dealership in the Atlanta area for about 6 years. I saw quite a few new tag-a-longs and fifth wheels being brought in from the factory in Indiana. Non of these trucks had a WDH.
Which makes sense, the set-up on a WDH takes time. Mounting the spring bar mounts on a new trailer draw bar could also make the trailer look "used".
Those transporters only have one goal, tow it to the dealer as fast as possible.
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Old 06-07-2019, 04:15 PM   #73
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I worked part time for a local RV dealership in the Atlanta area for about 6 years. I saw quite a few new tag-a-longs and fifth wheels being brought in from the factory in Indiana. Non of these trucks had a WDH.
They probably used a 3/4 ton or better truck. Hitch ratings are 800-900 and up.
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