Weight Distribution Bars on F250 Super Duty?

ColoRobbie · 08-09-2018, 10:30 AM

Hey All, I just traded my 2012 Ford F-150 with Eco-Boost (which I loved) for a 2016 Ford f-250 Super Duty. I had to use weight distribution bars on my F-150 when towing my Forest River BHS245 (5,300 lbs. dry).
I'm wondering if I should continue to use them on my F-250 or can I be done with them?

llr · 08-09-2018, 10:38 AM

probably not truly required but a good idea, especially if you have built in sway control with your WDH. the sway control is more of a benefit then the weight distribution for your combination.

mawilson · 08-09-2018, 10:40 AM

The size difference between TVs isn't that great and, as many will point out, your trailer will probably never be at it's published dry weight. The main differences are in the suspension and under the hood affecting payload and pulling. You'll still be pulling a ballpark 6500 to 7000 pound trailer with a ~6000# truck. You already have the WDH so I'd say go ahead and use it, especially if it has sway control.

JohnD10 · 08-09-2018, 10:47 AM

Yes...you will still need it!

When I made the switch from a Dodge Ram 1500 to a Chevy 2500HD the sales manager (who sold me my new truck) told me that the truck had built-in sway control so I wouldn't need the WD.

I pulled once without it...and used it the next time I rolled.

And I could feel the difference!

So I always used it up until I traded the TT in for a 5'ver.

ColoRobbie · 08-09-2018, 11:36 AM

Thanks for the feed back. The truck has electronic sway control but my weight distribution bars do not have sway control. I also failed to mention that my new truck is a diesel so the weight difference between the old and new trucks is almost 2,000 pounds.
That leads me to another question. When I bought my camper the dealer installed the WD set up for me and told me to always connect with the third link in the chain. Now that I have a different truck, will any of the use \ set up have to change? I would think that, as long as I have the hitch set up so the truck \ trailer is level, everything else would be the same.

Kaadk · 08-09-2018, 11:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoRobbie

Thanks for the feed back. The truck has electronic sway control but my weight distribution bars do not have sway control.
That leads me to another question. When I bought my camper the dealer installed the WD set up for me and told me to always connect with the third link in the chain. Now that I have a different truck, will any of the use \ set up have to change? I would think that, as long as i have the hitch set up so the truck \ trailer is level, everything else would be the same.

First thing's first is to re-setup the WDH for your new truck. My F250 is noticeably higher than my Ram 1500 was. Once you've adjusted your hitch head, etc..., and followed the setup directions, you'll know how much spring (i.e. how many links) you'll need on the bars. And it's best to use a scale to confirm you're returning the proper weight to the front of the truck.

ben31 · 08-09-2018, 12:18 PM

Yes, still use the WDH. It makes pulling it a lot easier on your psyche. Less bucking and stomping back there with it. The anti-sway seemed to work better with it, also.

**ependydad** · 08-09-2018, 12:25 PM

Check your owner's manual. It may very well require a WDH over X pounds.

I just happened to come across it for the 2018 Ram 3500 that I'm buying.

JohnD10 · 08-09-2018, 12:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoRobbie

Thanks for the feed back. The truck has electronic sway control but my weight distribution bars do not have sway control. I also failed to mention that my new truck is a diesel so the weight difference between the old and new trucks is almost 2,000 pounds.
That leads me to another question. When I bought my camper the dealer installed the WD set up for me and told me to always connect with the third link in the chain. Now that I have a different truck, will any of the use \ set up have to change? I would think that, as long as I have the hitch set up so the truck \ trailer is level, everything else would be the same.

The truck's built-in sway control uses the trucks brakes to TRY and counteract sway...but really doesn't work that great.

And yes...you'll need to reset the whole setup to match your new truck!

lewisra · 08-09-2018, 01:04 PM

The built in sway control only works in extreme sway conditions. At least that has been my experience.

ColoRobbie · 08-09-2018, 01:15 PM

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll continue to use the Weight Distribution bars and will work on getting it set up properly tonight.
My F-150 had anti-sway control and it worked great. If it doesn't work as well in this truck I'll look into adding it.

Aggie Dad · 08-09-2018, 01:33 PM

Just like the guys have said, you will now need to adjust hitch ball,etc., I went from F150 to a F250, I had to readjust everything. I flipped hitch head and went from there.

Oops · 08-09-2018, 01:35 PM

When we downsized our rig 8k down to 5k dry the super duty did not need the weight distribution bars and it drove better without them however the tail still wags in the wind and semis so the anti sway was still necessary for safety...

lewisra · 08-09-2018, 01:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoRobbie

Thanks for all the feedback. I'll continue to use the Weight Distribution bars and will work on getting it set up properly tonight.
My F-150 had anti-sway control and it worked great. If it doesn't work as well in this truck I'll look into adding it.

Here's a Ford link on how and when it engages.

https://tinyurl.com/ya2vhjj9

Have you seen the "Trailer Sway Reduce Speed" message? If not then your anti-sway control has not engaged.

pdqparalegal1 · 08-09-2018, 03:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ColoRobbie

Thanks for the feed back. The truck has electronic sway control but my weight distribution bars do not have sway control. I also failed to mention that my new truck is a diesel so the weight difference between the old and new trucks is almost 2,000 pounds.
That leads me to another question. When I bought my camper the dealer installed the WD set up for me and told me to always connect with the third link in the chain. Now that I have a different truck, will any of the use \ set up have to change? I would think that, as long as I have the hitch set up so the truck \ trailer is level, everything else would be the same.

The truck computer controled sway is almost useless. Drive slow on a deserted road and swerve back and forth to try to make it kick in. You will be almost out of control before it ever does anything. Use the hitch anti sway.

pburch · 08-09-2018, 03:27 PM

In my opinion, your TV may not need them, but they are recommended for any towing .....

Mikolow · 08-09-2018, 05:14 PM

My situation was quite similar to yours. Traded a 2015 F-150 for a 2016 F-250 diesel for later upgrade to 5er.
The 250 would pull my 7000 lb. 28' TT quite easily and the hitch/pin weight didn't affect the stance in the slightest. But the sway bars will help noticeably when being passed by 18 wheelers and going over dips and humps by bridges.

You're gonna love your truck. I now pull a 13000 5er and get better mileage than I did pulling the TT (11 compared to 12-13 now). Aerodynamics mean a lot.

bedubya · 08-09-2018, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ependydad

Check your owner's manual. It may very well require a WDH over X pounds.

I just happened to come across it for the 2018 Ram 3500 that I'm buying.

Your truck's owners manual is your bible. When I bought my camper (RV Show "deal" including hitch and some other stuff), the dealership owner tried to tell me I didn't need a WDH with a CruiseLight. My camper is just under 5,000 lbs dry. My truck's manual says over 5,000 lbs requires a WDH. We got into it pretty good. I told him the only time I'll pull it empty was to take it home. The guys in his shop waved me off. As soon as that POS was out of sight, they set me up with my WDH.

goduc · 08-09-2018, 05:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pdqparalegal1

The truck computer controled sway is almost useless. Drive slow on a deserted road and swerve back and forth to try to make it kick in. You will be almost out of control before it ever does anything. Use the hitch anti sway.

x2. Did that with a 2010 F150. It makes a big racket under the front end. I also unintentionally had it engage when a corner came up too fast one time. I honestly think it saved my rear.

Dustyhd · 08-09-2018, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by goduc

x2. Did that with a 2010 F150. It makes a big racket under the front end. I also unintentionally had it engage when a corner came up too fast one time. I honestly think it saved my rear.

The ESC and TSC is smarter than you think. In the above situation the ESC knows the lateral acceleration is coming from driver input by measuring steering position. True sway would have lateral acceleration and changes in wheel speed without steering input as well as knowing a trailer is attached. It is my belief that most manufacturers will start applying differential braking at the very onset of sway detection without lighting up the dash. The best way to stop sway is to try and correct it before the amplitude gets too high. I believe there is a threshold where the warning light activates and vehicle speed is reduced. One way to prove this is to check brake rotor temperatures after traveling through windy conditions.

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