Weight Distribution Hitch Tuning Questions

[robb1ssett]

Hey Hive Mind!

Just got a new trailer (Ranier / Vibe 26DBR). Dealer didn't help me out (aka wasn't completely forthcoming with information), so I made a quick swap from a RAM 1500 to RAM 2500 after 1 white knuckle drive and doing math. We've been having some issues with "bouncing" or "rolling" (which is persisting with the new truck, which isn't super comfortable. It was better when the water tank was empty (40 Gallons). I've been back twice and it's not right yet. Took matters into my own hands today and weighed everything.

Truck weight (F/R/Combined) was 5140/3360/8500
with Trailer (F/R/T) was 4860/4640/6600)

This gave me, if my math is right -280 on the front, 1280 on the rear, 1000lbs tongue weight with a 7600 lbs trailer (empty in the 7k range, max vehicle weight in the 9000 range)

I have a an equl-i-zer WDH with round 1k bars. The L bracket that holds the bar has 6 bolt holes, the manual says start with the middle two. The dealer set it up using the top two (least tension on the bar).

I adjusted up 1 bolt hole (couldn't go farther, will have to make other adjustments to make room. This put more tension on the 1k bars, and third pass resulted in:

(F/R/T) 4940/4540/6620 - so -200 on the front, 1180 on the back, and 980 tongue weight.

This seems "better" to me. It still bounces a bit, but overall felt better. I'm well within axle weights, combined weights, etc, etc so those are not a concern. I want to get it to properly balanced and not bouncy.

Should I move the bar holders up another notch to add some more weight to the front? Do you think the 1k bars are big enough given the tongue weight is *right there*?

Can ya'll check my math? Advice requested!

[DougW]

Your want the bars tight enough to, at a minimum, bring the front axel weight back to what it is unloaded. I have always set up WDH’s with a tape measure trying to get the change in height nearly equal on the tow vehicles fenders. This usually adds weight to the front axel and give the smoothest ride and best handling on the highway. The 1,000lb bars will be working but should be OK with a 2500 series truck, try it with them tighter and see how it goes.

[Qwkynuf]

I don't have that brand, but my round-bar hitch has an adjustment for the "head angle" of the hitch. Looking at it from the side, I can adjust the ball so that it is perfectly vertical, or I can tilt the ball slightly toward the truck tailgate or quite a bit toward the trailer.

You will probably need to tip the hitch "back", or toward the trailer. This will tilt the bars down toward the ground (on the trailer end), which will increase tension when they are connected. You will probably need to experiment a little with the head angle adjustment and L-bar height to get the proper balance. Remember that you are very likely going to load several hundred pounds of stuff in the trailer, so you may want to err toward more tension, rather than less, because as you add tongue weight you are going to further unload that front axle.

I would be very concerned about driving when the trailer was unloading my front tires by 200+ pounds. As mentioned above, you are going to want to get very close to where the weight on your front axle is at least as much as it is without the trailer connected.

[flyflotrtim]

In addition to the suggestions above, make sure the the ball height and trailer receiver height are level (when trailer and TV are level) before hooking up. It may be necessary to raise or lower the WDH to accomplish this. As suggested, you should be adding weight to your front axle and trying to keep the height of the front end and back end of your hitched up rig as close as possible to pre hookup heights.
Your bars may be a bit light. Make sure the bars are parallel to the ground after you are hooked up. Equalizer has good videos online explaining all this.

https://www.equalizerhitch.com/manuals-and-guides

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...4dUDCAw&uact=5

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by robb1ssett

I have a an equl-i-zer WDH with round 1k bars. The L bracket that holds the bar has 6 bolt holes, the manual says start with the middle two. The dealer set it up using the top two (least tension on the bar).

Hope you don't mind me clarifying what Equal-i-zer you have.
I don't know of any Equal-i-zer WDH with round bars. They only come with square trunnion bars.
Now the E2 WDH does have some models with round bars but it only has 2 points of sway control, while the true Equal-i-zer has 4 points of sway control.
Bothe are from Progress Manufacturing Inc.

[robb1ssett]

You are correct - I have the E2 - https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

Thanks to everyone posting. I do (also) think I have a levelling issue. The dealer set it up that way, and the head has a slight tilt away from the truck (5 washers instead of the 4 they recommend you start with).

We are heading out next weekend - (not too far away straight down the highway) and I think I might just take the whole hitch apart and re-do it as per the manufacturers instructions while at the site. You would think the dealer would be somewhat incentivized to do this right the first time.....

[robb1ssett]

You are correct, I have the E2, 10K rated, with 1k round bars.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by robb1ssett

You would think the dealer would be somewhat incentivized to do this right the first time.....

You would be wrong, with few exceptions.

[RCW]

What height is the hitch head mounted? I did the same thing went from a Ram 1500 to a 2500. The 2500 sits higher. If you didn't adjust for the difference, I would start there. With my setup I had to move to the bottom set of holes. This adjustment made a big difference in the ride.

[dmdomokos]

Originally Posted by robb1ssett

You are correct - I have the E2 - https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/e2-hitch

Thanks to everyone posting. I do (also) think I have a levelling issue. The dealer set it up that way, and the head has a slight tilt away from the truck (5 washers instead of the 4 they recommend you start with).

We are heading out next weekend - (not too far away straight down the highway) and I think I might just take the whole hitch apart and re-do it as per the manufacturers instructions while at the site. You would think the dealer would be somewhat incentivized to do this right the first time.....

I have pretty much the same setup as you. I had to add more washers (I think I am at the max recommended). I also set my hitch height so it tips my trailer about 1" lower in the front than back. All that works to reduce sway and meets the E2 installation manual.