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Old 03-13-2021, 10:07 PM   #1
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Weight Distribution Hitches and Axle Weight

I own a 2015 Expedition EL Limited. I picked up a new travel trailer.

Here are the numbers I am seeing.

Ford Weight: 6103 stock according to Ford Fleet guide (FFG). Weighed mine at Cat Scale this morning before getting the rv. Myself, Wife, some tools and equipment in back, 6780. The FFG Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is 7,760.

We are under the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

Unloaded Trailer Weight (of travel trailer): 6,428. We towed her home empty weight plus battery and propane, a little bit of shopping for equipment and gear.

Gross Vehicle Weight Rating of travel trailer is 7,837.

FFG Combined Gross Vehicle Weight: 15,300

Ours combines to 14,617 (theoretically)

According to CAT scales we weigh in at 13,540

FFG max tongue weight: 920 lbs
Ours is unknown right now, but I think the answer is here somewhere.

We are using a Reese Pro Series weight distribution hitch. Model 49913 installed by the rv dealer. According to the Reese website it has a Gross Trailer Weight of 11,500 and Tongue Weight Rating of 1,150. The tongue weight of the rv is stated as 837 max. We should have been quite a bit under this since we had minimal gear loaded.
We should be well under tongue weight rating.

Tire Capacity 2,833/ tire, 5,666/axle.

Axle Capacities FFG: front 3,700 we weighed in at 3,380 this morning and 3,160 with travel trailer and Reese WDH. Front fender measurement rose 1/2” with trailer.

Rear axle rating FFG 4,300. This morning no trailer 3,400, with trailer 4,500!

So to sum it up, we are under in GVWR both truck and trailer. We are under in tongue weight (right?).

We raised the tire pressure from 35 to 41 cold ( XL rated tire 50 max psi).

Front axle weight went down with trailer but rear axle weight is over by 200 lbs according to the scales.

Do we need a more stout WDH, to transfer more weight? All of the numbers are under except rear axle weight. What next?
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:39 PM   #2
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Someone more knowledgeable than I will comment.... but I think you are under estimating your tongue weight. Multiplying the GVWR of the trailer by .13% (average for estimating tongue weight) and you're at 1,018lbs. Thus, even unloaded, I suspect your tongue weight is more than you may think.

Good luck & have fun with the new TT.
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:41 PM   #3
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Forgot to ask... what TT did you purchase?
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:56 PM   #4
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She pulled perfectly for 90 miles home. No problems with sway, braking, etc at all. Got 10/ mpg (driving into a 15 mph wind most of the time). Was quite happy with how she handled/towed. No problems with power, if I kept it under 63 she ran in 6th gear most of the time.
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Old 03-13-2021, 10:57 PM   #5
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Grey Wolf 29TE
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:00 PM   #6
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Someone more knowledgeable than I will comment.... but I think you are under estimating your tongue weight. Multiplying the GVWR of the trailer by .13% (average for estimating tongue weight) and you're at 1,018lbs. Thus, even unloaded, I suspect your tongue weight is more than you may think.

Good luck & have fun with the new TT.

Could this be solved with a higher rated WHD?
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:08 PM   #7
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My opinion it towed great, unsubscribe from this thread., live happily ever after. Continue to read you won’t be safe u til you buy a Freight-liner.
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:09 PM   #8
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Its possible that you may be able to transfer more weight to the front axle by adjusting/tweaking your existing Reese Pro Series hitch. Perhaps someone with that hitch will comment.

Rather than using the FFG data, you may want to grab the placard cargo and axle rating data for your specific vehicle located on the drivers side door pillar of your Expedition. Maybe snap a photo of those tags.
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:13 PM   #9
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You actually WANT at least 12% tongue weight for stability.
You should be locking out 6th gear and towing in tow/haul mode. Need to keep that Ecoboost in the torque band over 2000 RPM while towing heavy. Even shifting down to 4th or lower on hills is good. Tow in manual transmission mode and shift down right before even the slightest hill. if you have a boost gauge, try to shift down to keep the boost under 10 psi.
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:22 PM   #10
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She was in tow/haul mode, was in 5th mostly, 4th in some situations uphill, 6th on a flat going about 60-63. Tried to go any faster was 5th continuously. Through the hills of Missouri with a fairly steady wind at 12-15?mph. Got 9.3 mpg. Again, no performance issues, but how to solve rear axle weight problem, is there one,
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Old 03-13-2021, 11:31 PM   #11
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Put in manual mode when out on the highway, Can still be in cruise. I set cruise on 69 while on interstate and just shift up and down as needed. Don't be afraid to let that engine rev. Remember max torque is at 2500 RPM and max HP is at 5000 RPM. Going uphill in 3rd gear at 4000 RPM is great. Tough engine.
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:01 AM   #12
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Ok on the serous side you. Never mentioned if you had the ability to adjust your hitch. Either by cranking it up higher before installing the bars or chains. ( sorry not familiar with the Reese’s). Also you need to know if your dealer adjusted the hitch or just installed it. When I bought my WD hitch I paid the dealer to install I feel stupid for it now. ( not because the dealer did bad) but because it is easy but time consuming to do.) I have read where dealers when install but not adjust because of liability or tell you they adjusted to empty weight not loaded. Get out your instructions and see, also consider how and where you pack.
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:43 AM   #13
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My opinion it towed great, unsubscribe from this thread., live happily ever after. Continue to read you won’t be safe u til you buy a Freight-liner.
You say this in jest but there is a certain amount of truth to what you say.

Some on the various towing forums will have you worried you'll end up spinning into a ditch, a nuclear mushroom cloud visible for miles, until one day you view their advise with the same skepticism you give to the advise you get from the 5 guys sitting at the bar.
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Old 03-14-2021, 11:55 AM   #14
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Like Hangdiver said, use the data off your federally required white door frame sticker. That is YOUR GVWR & GAWRs. The FFG is mathematical average values.
If you are over your RAWR, your WDH NEEDS adjustment.
That trailer Max tongue weight value is not. That is the factory dry weight tongue weight. It only goes up & up as you load for camping. That’s all they ever list. There is a Max tongue weight rating for the receiver, usually 10% of tow rating.
So, it appears the TV is a good match for the TT, pulling well. You just need to properly adjust the WDH.
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Old 03-14-2021, 12:51 PM   #15
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Your trailer weighed 6760 and 880 was added to the truck. There should be a way to adjust your hitch but once you load the trailer your TW will increase and you may never get the rear down to 4300. You are already or will be over 920 on TW. The is no way to calculate the actual TW from the numbers you provided. You are at over slightly over the limits of your truck. It is up to you whether this is acceptable.
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Old 03-14-2021, 01:03 PM   #16
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An acceptable way to get your actual tongue weight. Weigh your TV with and without the fully loaded trailer attached. Difference in TV weight is tongue weight.
More tension on your WD bars or possibly a different hitch may be enough to move more weight off the rear axle.


Good luck and safe travels.
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Old 03-14-2021, 03:46 PM   #17
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Using that method I am at 880 tongue weight
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Old 03-14-2021, 04:39 PM   #18
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880 plus what was transferred to the trailer axles. A WDH transfers weight, but does not change the downward force on the ball that the receiver needs to support.
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Old 03-15-2021, 11:31 AM   #19
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880 plus what was transferred to the trailer axles. A WDH transfers weight, but does not change the downward force on the ball that the receiver needs to support.
Yes, that’s why the initial truck weights with and without the trailer SHOULD NOT have the WDH spring bars/ chains hooked up to get the true tongue weight. 3rd weigh with WDH engaged. Then everything can be figured out.
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Old 03-16-2021, 12:15 AM   #20
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Yes, that’s why the initial truck weights with and without the trailer SHOULD NOT have the WDH spring bars/ chains hooked up to get the true tongue weight. 3rd weigh with WDH engaged. Then everything can be figured out.
RVSEF ( RV Safety & Education Foundation), who I accept as an authoritative group on this issue, doesn't do the no WD weighing as part of their standard procedure. They apparently don't consider it important.

Tongue weight is weight applied to the truck suspension and is part of your cargo capacity. Only thing you get by doing the weight without WD is how much weight is shifted and where. To get a good answer for that, you also need to get separate weights for the TV front and rear axles. Weight shifted to the trailer axles doesn't count.
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