What do you think about breakaway cable

[67L48]

Originally Posted by 01tundra

Used coated cable, made a loop around the frame's rear cross member. When not in used the cable tucks into the back of the receiver hitch out of sight.[...]

I need to do something like that. I also use the Fastway 6' Cable and it's a really nice upgrade from a loose cable. However, I don't have any convenient way to connect it to my truck or hitch. I'm connecting to the exact same point as my chains, which is sort of pointless.

As someone said, laws are scant on direction. I've not read every law, of course, but the ones I have read offer no prescriptive text on how to implement a breakaway cable. They only specify that one must be present and in use. But obviously, the cable should be the last surviving thing ... when literally every other attachment device fails, the breakaway cable is the last to be connected. I'd figure about half are actually connected in this fashion.

One of these days, I'll do something clever like those pics. I need a good solution like that. Nice job.

[aeblank]

Originally Posted by 67L48

I'm connecting to the exact same point as my chains, which is sort of pointless.

I disagree.
The most common failure is going to be a latch/latching issue/failure. It protects against that fully.

Sure, the whole hitch could come off. Heck, the frame could crack in two. A million things *could* happen. But still, a latch being open or worn or otherwise failing is by far what you are protecting against.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by aeblank

I disagree.
The most common failure is going to be a latch/latching issue/failure. It protects against that fully.

Sure, the whole hitch could come off. Heck, the frame could crack in two. A million things *could* happen. But still, a latch being open or worn or otherwise failing is by far what you are protecting against.

Agreed.

A break away switch and the brakes that are actuated by it, are designed for a ... well... you guessed it... a complete break away.

You really only want those brakes coming FULL on (as when the pin is pulled) when the trailer comes completely uncoupled (chains and all) from the tow vehicle. They are designed to help slow the trailer ONCE IT BECOMES DISCONNECTED from the tow vehicle so it isn't a free wheeling projectile going down the road unattached.

There is no way I want those brakes full on when the trailer is hanging from the safety chains. Talk about a wild ride on a mustang or bucking bronco!...

[cfo111]

I have a coach and have a dingy 03 saturn LW and I would never not have a break away system not hook up hate to see a saturn like mine passing me down the road.

[azfansinnc]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Agreed.

There is no way I want those brakes full on when the trailer is hanging from the safety chains. Talk about a wild ride on a mustang or bucking bronco!...

While I understand what you mean, there are two trains of thought on this. The Fastway website talks about using their cable in case of a total disconnect as you indicated.

However, other sources talk about leaving the breakaway cable slightly shorter than your safety chains in case of a disconnect only at the ball. This is the way mine is setup. I do like the idea of having a separate connection point as another poster indicated using a wire.

Fastway:
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/blog/...reakaway-cable

Alternate approach:
https://www.trailersoftheeastcoast.c...y-system--1733

[TheWolfPaq82]

I would love to see an "Actual" demonstration of the brakes and how well it really works when a trailer disconnects from a tow vehicle at 70mph. I would think there probably isn't that much difference in the outcome of brakes or no brakes being used. Either is gonna end in catastrophe for the trailer. IMHO.

[aeblank]

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

I would love to see an "Actual" demonstration of the brakes and how well it really works when a trailer disconnects from a tow vehicle at 70mph. I would think there probably isn't that much difference in the outcome of brakes or no brakes being used. Either is gonna end in catastrophe for the trailer. IMHO.

Happened to my dad. Skidded to a straight stop on the expressway, on a bridge. It drifted over half a lane, blocking the bridge. Light traffic, thankfully. It also shortened his jack post a couple inches. Otherwise all was ok.

Re hook, put pin back in, get to shoulder, clean shorts, continue home.

[Hersbird]

Originally Posted by azfansinnc

While I understand what you mean, there are two trains of thought on this. The Fastway website talks about using their cable in case of a total disconnect as you indicated.

However, other sources talk about leaving the breakaway cable slightly shorter than your safety chains in case of a disconnect only at the ball. This is the way mine is setup. I do like the idea of having a separate connection point as another poster indicated using a wire.

Fastway:
https://www.fastwaytrailer.com/blog/...reakaway-cable

Alternate approach:
https://www.trailersoftheeastcoast.c...y-system--1733

But it's never shorter, especially the coiled cable pictured earlier. If it was shorter you would constantly run the risk of it sensing a breakaway on a corner and locking up the brakes, or you would have the leave the chains so long you would constantly risk starting forest fires from the sparks. It is for total breakaway, not just a disconnect. In a disconnect you still have the brake controller applying the brakes on the trailer.

[cfo111]

my safety system doesn't activate unless it has broken away completely so you need not to worry about your brakes unless your completely apart that means your chains are gone also.

[babock]

Of course that's not the reason to have the breakaway. The reason is to slow or stop the trailer before hitting someone else.

Originally Posted by TheWolfPaq82

I would love to see an "Actual" demonstration of the brakes and how well it really works when a trailer disconnects from a tow vehicle at 70mph. I would think there probably isn't that much difference in the outcome of brakes or no brakes being used. Either is gonna end in catastrophe for the trailer. IMHO.

[doc73]

If the brakes are properly equipped / adjusted they will work better than nothing but I find most electric brakes on the commercial side do not work ( prob 75 to 80%)

[Mrs.Shockley]

Originally Posted by MR.M

Break away brake cable being run through the safety chains . have notived winniebago doing this with all their TT's . maybe it's a dealer thing but seems odd to me they would do this

This is the way the dealer set up our Rockwood Mini Lite.

Guess I know the first thing we need to change. But the question remains should the cable be slightly shorter (which is what I keep seeing in videos) or longer than the chains?

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

This is the way the dealer set up our Rockwood Mini Lite.

Guess I know the first thing we need to change. But the question remains should the cable be slightly shorter (which is what I keep seeing in videos) or longer than the chains?

Mine is slightly longer to accomodate where I have to connect it. Last thing you want is for it to be too short and pull the pin out going in a tight turn on a busy area (personal experience here not a lot of fun).

So the answer is simple.. short enough so it doesn't normally drag but long enough not to trip the brakes in a tight turn.

[Mrs.Shockley]

Originally Posted by 007matman

So the answer is simple.. short enough so it doesn't normally drag but long enough not to trip the brakes in a tight turn.

Is it difficult to pull out? My worry about it NOT being through the chains is that it might catch on an obstruction, say a tree branch or a piece of trash, that we accidently run over, and lock up the brakes. (Obviously, I'm not worried about stationary objects like big rocks, since if we're going over those, we have more to worry about under the trailer than the brakes.)

[gbaldwin]

Hmm. Thought provoking. My cable was woven thru the chains and then looped over the hook that hooks into my TV bumper. This all done by my dealer at inital delivery and drive off 3 years ago. This adequate to serve its purpose? I have never addressed how this cable works.

[The Evil Twin]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

This is the way the dealer set up our Rockwood Mini Lite.

Guess I know the first thing we need to change. But the question remains should the cable be slightly shorter (which is what I keep seeing in videos) or longer than the chains?

Shorter.
If the trailer becomes disconnected from the ball but is still connected by the chains then you need to be able to stop without the trailer crashing into the back of your vehicle.

[cfo111]

better then it hitting some one else.

[Mrs.Shockley]

Originally Posted by The Evil Twin

Shorter.
If the trailer becomes disconnected from the ball but is still connected by the chains then you need to be able to stop without the trailer crashing into the back of your vehicle.

Wouldn't you still be plugged in and have your regular trailer brakes in that situation? Or are the chains long enough that the plug will get pulled out of the truck?

If I understand how it works, the cable will pull a pin in the box under the trailer and that engages the brakes...yes?

So if it's hooked through the safety chain, but NOT independently hooked to the TV, then if the chain becomes unhooked, the pin will never pull.

If it's hooked, whether thru the chain or otherwise, independently to the TV, then the pin would pull if the chain came loose, but it might also get tangled up and pull just because of the chain...and not because the chain is loose.

Do I have this right?

[5picker]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

Wouldn't you still be plugged in and have your regular trailer brakes in that situation? Or are the chains long enough that the plug will get pulled out of the truck?

If I understand how it works, the cable will pull a pin in the box under the trailer and that engages the brakes...yes?

So if it's hooked through the safety chain, but NOT independently hooked to the TV, then if the chain becomes unhooked, the pin will never pull.

If it's hooked, whether thru the chain or otherwise, independently to the TV, then the pin would pull if the chain came loose, but it might also get tangled up and pull just because of the chain...and not because the chain is loose.

Do I have this right?

I believe I answered your questions in post #23 of this very same thread.

[007matman]

Originally Posted by Mrs.Shockley

Is it difficult to pull out? My worry about it NOT being through the chains is that it might catch on an obstruction, say a tree branch or a piece of trash, that we accidently run over, and lock up the brakes. (Obviously, I'm not worried about stationary objects like big rocks, since if we're going over those, we have more to worry about under the trailer than the brakes.)

No, it's not difficult.

Mine were too short and I pulled it turning a sharp corner in a busy intersection. Wasn't fun having the brakes apply. I had to jump out of the truck, assess what happened (I thought I'd hit something) and reset the system by putting the key back in the slot. Meanwhile, cars were honking and yelling at me to move my camper.