What does it cost to prepare a flat tow?

[HUNDLEYRW]

We used to flat tow but the vehicles with transfer cases are getting fewer and fewer. We now use a dolly. Paid $2750 new with surge brakes. No need to run separate brakes, just drive car unto dolly, strap down the tires and go. When we want to trade cars no need to purchase tow brackets.

[HUNDLEYRW]

Go with a dolly. $2750 new with surge brakes. No mounting brackets to mess with. Takes about the same amount of time to drive on, strap down tires as it did to hook up flat tow. When you change autos no need to purchase more tow brackets.

[conceptumator]

Oops - missed the last part of your post! Our first RV was a 3 year old Thor Hurricane 30Q gasser. We bought it with about 14K miles on it and had them add auto levelers and a backup camera. All in, we spent $50K for it in 2009. Not the fanciest thing on the road but very comfortable for us and really showed us how RVing worked. Learned a lot. We traded it in on the Legacy in April and love the extra room and the diesel pusher. The roof was rubber but we never had any issues with it. When we traded it, we were already planning preemptive action to replace it with a sprayed on Rhino roof. Cost for that system us about $125 per foot of length of the RV (measured length, not specified length). You want to find the folks who give you a lifetime warranty; the reroof will take 3-4 days. RV's lose value pretty quick, so you can probably find something pretty nice so long as you stick with gas. A lot of folks will bad mouth the Thir, but we never had any problems with it. It was on the Ford F53 chassis with the Triton V10. Thor will go to the budget side of things but sometimes it takes that to get affordable to some folks. For our plan of it being a starter home, it was perfect. Just go to the larger dealers and tell them your price range, then see what they come up with.

[conceptumator]

Some folks like the tow dolly and I can't say anything bad about it so long as you get the right dolly. If they don't have surge brakes, they'll have electric brakes. If electric, you'll need a brake controller in the RV - about $125 or so. You'll also still need to do something for lights. Not all states will consider lights on the dolly to be sufficient. This can be as simple as magnetic lights sitting on the trunk and plugged into the dolly. REMEMBER: Flat towing or with a dolly, you can ?NOT back the toad up! Also, the folly will only work with a front wheel drive vehicle. When we first started towing, I had a Tacoma, so I bought an 18' aluminum car hauler. Really nice, towed great, but a pain to store and a bigger pain to camp with. Always have to find something to do with it.

[tapadunbar]

I just setup my 2014 CRV for flat towing. Start looking in ebay, craigslist and newspaper for "good" used parts. I bought a blue ox Aladdin all terrain tow bar for 450, lists for 1000 it was like new. A Blue ox Patriot break system for 400, it list for 1200. The rock guard was on the motor home. The wiring kit w/diodes bought new 125. The base plate new 325.
Had our local rv repair shop install theses along with a 12v outlet from the car battery for the brake system and a charging wire from the rv to the car battery and setup. they charged around 8 to 9 hrs. Take your time and look for the used bar and break system but be careful and look at them real good and if you have a friend that is towing take him along.

[rhart]

Originally Posted by conceptumator

Some folks like the tow dolly and I can't say anything bad about it so long as you get the right dolly. If they don't have surge brakes, they'll have electric brakes. If electric, you'll need a brake controller in the RV - about $125 or so. You'll also still need to do something for lights. Not all states will consider lights on the dolly to be sufficient. This can be as simple as magnetic lights sitting on the trunk and plugged into the dolly. REMEMBER: Flat towing or with a dolly, you can ?NOT back the toad up! Also, the folly will only work with a front wheel drive vehicle. When we first started towing, I had a Tacoma, so I bought an 18' aluminum car hauler. Really nice, towed great, but a pain to store and a bigger pain to camp with. Always have to find something to do with it.

Is this true?? I spoke with an old fella with a vintage 43,000 lb Blue Bird Wanderlodge. When the discussion got around to towing he said with a big heavy diesel rig you don't need aux brakes as the rig in unaffected by a mere 4,000 lbs load back there. Sorta makes sense but what do the followers of this thread think?

[conceptumator]

Yes, it makes sense, BUT....most states have a legal requirement for the aux brakes, not to mention what happens if the vehicle breaks away. You need the aux brakes.

[rhart]

Hmmm. You have lots of credibility just now. I was towing my 20' Haulmark race trailer only yesterday with my Porsche Cayenne. I hit a big dip and the trailer (empty at the time) jumped off the ball. I was only going a few blocks and didn't put the safety pin in the tongue lock and it must not have been seated correctly. Fortunately I did have the chains and E brake cable in place. No harm no foul but lesson learned.

[rhart]

PS I watched videos on hooking up a toad with a dolly tow and a flat tow setups. Seems like flat towing is way less complicated and work than dolly towing.

[conceptumator]

I haven't used a dolly but I can tell you it's a LOT easier to hook up the Jeep than to load my truck on the flatbed and tie it down.

[accumack]

I never knew the toad was behind me while towing and I didn't have aux brakes for quite a while. But getting to California i bought a system as people told me if you get caught the fine is like $1200.

[Squash]

On the cheap! I purchased EMPI towbar for $120, magnetic lights for $10 from Harbor Freight, chain for $20 and tow a '71 VW Bug. Currently have 2012 Sunseeker 3120DS.

[rsscully]

Just under $2000 for my system. Did all the install myself.

-Blue Ox Alpha towbar
-Blue Ox Patriot brake system
-baseplate
-wiring/light kit
-umbilical

[waianaegal]

making me think more of a truck and trailer... one engine... yeah still hook ups... but a lot comes with both... to early for the retirement home...lol.

[rad_jr]

rhart...like you said...no boxes on the drivers floor, etc. Also, since it's plumbed into the rear brakes, it's truly proportional...no adjustments to make etc.
Hooking up is the same as any trailer...lights, safety chains, and the breakaway lanyard. Then instead of messing with boxes on the floor of the toad, etc., you just hook up your air line and your done.
This is my 3rd season using this system and wouldn't use anything else.
I had mine installed by a dealer...definitely worth the money.
When towing my 2008 Wrangler, I just need to turn the key one click to Accessory so the steering doesn't lock. The radio display and odometer display power up (it does NOT clock miles unless the key is turned to "On" ). I suppose if you left it like that long enough it could kill the battery, but I've towed from north Jersey to Vermont, Florida, and the OBX of North Carolina (just yesterday...hence the late response!), and have never gotten the feeling that the battery is less than 100% when I start it up. With the Blue Ox in line light harness, the lights are run off of the TV...only thing drawing on the toad battery while being towed is the radio and odometer displays.
Definately satisfied with the system and how it operates.

[sonny bransom]

I bought a roadmaster tow bar w7500lb tow weight .picked up safty chain at home depot and magnetic lights. less than 500.00 in everything.i bought bar on ebay for 250.00

[conceptumator]

Just to add to rad_jr: I believe about 2011 Jeep did away with the key lock on the Wranglers. On my 2014 I don't even put the key in it. Start it up, put the transfer case in neutral, put it in drive to verify TC is in neutral, then put it in park and take the keys out. Great feature!

[mikel68]

I Just went through all this. We drug 5th wheels around for about 10 years, then moved to a motorhome. It ain't cheap. Get all you can from the dealer. Go to etrailer.com to get an idea on parts then go from there.

Our baseplate was about $350, Tow Bar about $750 - both Blue Ox, Aux Brakes $1000... heck I guess that was about it other than some odds and ends here and there. I paid $200 to have the base plate installed.

Before you do all this make double, triple, quadruple sure it can be towed, don't just assume. Get more than one opinion.

[sdgscott]

Hi,

Just had the Ready Brute Elite tow bar with integrated braking, and a Blue-Ox base plate installed on my 2006 Jeep Liberty. I am really happy with the setup and the authorized dealer I used here in So Cal did a great job. The whole install with wiring harness was $2600, including labor.

I am very mechanically inclined, but thought I would have this done by someone that has installed a few. After seeing the install, and several customization's required, I am glad I didn't inflict any pain on myself!

P.S. Going to drive the Jeep to Ohio in September to pick up my new Forester 2861DS.

Scott

[rhart]

Originally Posted by tapadunbar

I just setup my 2014 CRV for flat towing. Start looking in ebay, craigslist and newspaper for "good" used parts. I bought a blue ox Aladdin all terrain tow bar for 450, lists for 1000 it was like new. A Blue ox Patriot break system for 400, it list for 1200. The rock guard was on the motor home. The wiring kit w/diodes bought new 125. The base plate new 325.
Had our local rv repair shop install theses along with a 12v outlet from the car battery for the brake system and a charging wire from the rv to the car battery and setup. they charged around 8 to 9 hrs. Take your time and look for the used bar and break system but be careful and look at them real good and if you have a friend that is towing take him along.

I'm trying to picture the "rock guard". Is it the black brush like gizmo that hangs down behind the rear wheels? 12 or 14" long?