What To Do When I'm Over GAWR by a Smidge

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

Originally Posted by itat

With all due respect, I bet I could find info on the internet within 20 seconds that is inaccurate for my model year Super Duty. Just because you can find it on the internet that's no guarantee of its accuracy.

If you can find and post a link to a spec sheet from RAM confirming they use the same rear axle I'll be glad to say I'm wrong.

I would also note that axle ratings are established by the axle manufacturer not the assembling factory's engineers.

my 2000 dodge ram 3500 dully 5.9 cummins
rear axel is dana 80 front axel is a 60 dana

i took some parts of a 2000 2500 drive shaft & what not
U joints did not match and the slide spline on the 2500 was small and fine spline..
every body says there the same but there not ...
i dont real how they come up with the ratings ...

but like i said the air bags will help in controlling sway sag
iv used them and they work great ..
i was considering using them on my 3500 also..

i do believe axel size contributes a huge difference in tonnage
frame construction is huge trans...

iv hauled horses cows 5th wheels campers
iv always had to have a 2500 HD minimum
thats why i have a 3500 dodge
it's just good practice is safety first...

[Hclarkx]

Originally Posted by MrWizard

Hmm, then tell me why a Ram 2500 SRW and Ram 3500 SRW have the same rear axle yet different axle ratings if not because they have different sets of springs?

I recently bought a 2020 truck. In spec'ing and pricing it (Chevy and GMC) at one point I was choosing wheels. Base was 17", upgrade 1 was 18" and upgrade 2 was 20". The rear axle rating and payload were over 300 lbs higher with the 20" over the 17". Other bits also might have changed when the 18 or 20" wheels were ordered. Clearly there are some subtle differences that can change axle ratings ... including wheels (and associated tires).

[BOO-BOO-IS-IN-CAMP]

Originally Posted by Hclarkx

I recently bought a 2020 truck. In spec'ing and pricing it (Chevy and GMC) at one point I was choosing wheels. Base was 17", upgrade 1 was 18" and upgrade 2 was 20". The rear axle rating and payload were over 300 lbs higher with the 20" over the 17". Other bits also might have changed when the 18 or 20" wheels were ordered. Clearly there are some subtle differences that can change axle ratings ... including wheels (and associated tires).

i do not know about tire size but i have been told that steel rims had the strongest pay load ????

[jkevin]

I had similar problems. I went back to the dealer and expressed my concerns and asked if they would make an adjustment to the weight distribution hitch. Their first comment was that being over 50-100 lbs over the max on my rear axle (which I was), was really a problem. But they did make the adjustment to the WDH and that resolved the problem; moved some weight to the front axle of the TW and a little to the trailer. It probably isn't very unusual to be close to max on some axles. You sound like you're conscientious about the weight concerns, as am I. That's a good thing in my opinion. I've seen too many pictures of tow vehicles that look like disaster ready to happen. Good travels! JKevin

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by DougW

Tighten up the WDH, move a little weight to the front axel and you should be fine.

My thoughts exactly.

When I look at the picture, it looks to me that the truck rear squats when connected.

Tighten the WDH to raise the rear, which will shift weight to the front axle, solving your problem.

[45RPM]

I cannot find instructions on tightening the Reese WDH,

-Rich

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by 45RPM

I cannot find instructions on tightening the Reese WDH,

-Rich

Using the theory that if you give a man a fish you feed him for a meal

But if you Teach him to fish you feed him for a lifetime..................

Try a google search....................."reese weight distribution hitch installation instructions"

You will find you tube videos from etrailer.com as well as instructions from Reese.

Search is ALWAYS your friend!

[tomkatb]

Another over payload question.

This trailer has an approximate hitch weight of #1000. Hitch weight for you is listed hitch weight dry, plus 14% of anything added like propane, battery, water, etc., plus the weight of the fancy hitch. Thus the stuff in the truck is limited to #400 or so. If you weigh #250 and mom weighs #150 there is no room for Fido! It is unclearly stated on the Ford brochure!

There is great debate as to what Ford has in the truck when the published payload on the sticker is calculated. Thus, you are at or near the max.

The only way to tell is to weigh the truck as you did.

Your truck was sort of designed to be a car type truck. Not a tow vehicle.

Make sure the truck is not squatting in the rear. Tighten the bars a bit.. Add .sumitomo springs if needed. Easy job.

You are ok. When the time comes for a new truck, get a heavier payload.

Ford 150’s as I remember go from #1200 to #3100.

At one time I remember your truck was rated as up to #3000. That of course did not include options like a club cab, truck bed, tailgate, bumper or spare tire options.

[DougW]

Originally Posted by 45RPM

I cannot find instructions on tightening the Reese WDH,

-Rich

See post #52

[Artmann]

Originally Posted by DougW

See post #52

The videos in post #52 do not tell how to adjust the spring bar angle to provide more transfer of weight to the front and trailer axles. If you actually watched these videos carefully, you would know that. You have to adjust the angle where the spring bars attach to the truck. Reese does not tell you how to do this. My guess is they don't want a neophyte to go very far from the standard installation parameters. A person who is mechanically inclined can figure it out for themselves.

[Lins]

Originally Posted by MrWizard

Hmm, then tell me why a Ram 2500 SRW and Ram 3500 SRW have the same rear axle yet different axle ratings if not because they have different sets of springs?

Originally Posted by itat

I suspect that's an internet myth. Here's why.

Lots of people on the internet claim that the F-250 and F-350 SRW have the same rear axle and the only difference is the springs but I was able to find an actual spec sheet from Ford that confirms on my 2016 model year they have different axles.

I would be surprised if the 2500 and 3500 SRW RAMs aren't the same. You'd have to check with RAM to confirm if they use the exact same axle.

The AAM 11.5" axle itself is rated to around 10,000lbs and is supposed to be used on both Ram 2500 and 3500 diesel trucks. The ratings are derated on the vehicle - probably due to suspension and tire/wheel ratings and who knows what else engineers use to determine that them. I would not argue the number they come up with.

[DougW]

Originally Posted by Artmann

The videos in post #52 do not tell how to adjust the spring bar angle to provide more transfer of weight to the front and trailer axles. If you actually watched these videos carefully, you would know that. You have to adjust the angle where the spring bars attach to the truck. Reese does not tell you how to do this. My guess is they don't want a neophyte to go very far from the standard installation parameters. A person who is mechanically inclined can figure it out for themselves.

Post #52 does not have any videos in it, if you had read it carefully you would know that.

Look at the hitch for a few minutes, if you can’t tell which bolt to loosen to set the hitch head at a different angle, take it to someone with more experience and ask them to adjust it.

[Hclarkx]

Originally Posted by MrWizard

Hmm, then tell me why a Ram 2500 SRW and Ram 3500 SRW have the same rear axle yet different axle ratings if not because they have different sets of springs?

The suspension is a "system" and a number of components factor into the rear axle rating. That includes the front suspension, shocks, gearing, the wheels, the tires, etc. And probably others.

[Go West]

45RPM: The attached .pdf describes how to adjust the Reese Steadi-Flex hitch to increase weight distribution to the front axle. Page 9 says that you can "adjust the A-frame bracket up one hole or adjust the head angle downwards." Page 7 says you can adjust the ball angle (downward in your case) by "positioning the toothed washer in the grooves that will allow the desired head angle."

I would first try adjusting the frame brackets up one hole. Then, adjust the brackets to ensure the bars and brake-pads meet each other "flat" as described in the second video posted above. If that doesn't give you enough extra "lift" to the front axle, then I would re-position the frame brackets to their original position, and lower the hitch head angle as described on page 7 (dropping one notch on the toothed washer).

Some combination of the above adjustments should give you the extra weight distribution to the front axle you want (and the accompanying lift to the rear of the truck).

https://www.carid.com/images/reese/p...structions.pdf

P.S.: the instructions say that you need to re-tighten the ball-mount bolts to 300 lbs after adjusting the head angle. Most weekend mechanics won't have a torque wrench that strong. That's one reason I suggest raising the A-frame brackets first. If you end up adjusting the head angle, you can re-tighten the ball-mount bolts as best as you can, then bring the hitch head to an RV shop for the final torque on the bolts.

[frank4711]

I give ya'll bumper pull folks a lot of credit ... a lot effort goes into getting it right ... after having bumper pulls in business for 25 years and making sure each piece of equipment was in the same spot when we left the job knowing if it was not that trailer would sure as hell get sideways .. but of course getting it dialed in is half the fun