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Old 12-25-2019, 03:17 PM   #61
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This is my first time towing with the EcoBoost and I'm excited about it. Our former TV was a Toyota Sequoia with a 5.7 and sometimes it would be screaming as we went over a highway overpass!

Our trip is 1500 miles each way. Sequoia got 7.5 mpg. With an average size tank we were starting to look for gas every 2 hours! The F150 should be in the 9.5 - 10.5 mpg range. And with the 36 gallon tank, we expect to stop once on the road and again at the end of the day.
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:08 PM   #62
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I knew that but someone said it was just like a Diesel. So I thought it would be better to get an actual driven test rather than looking at a curve to see what the dynamometer test results indicated. The factory specs actually show the peak a bit below 3k. Since I have been building engines all my life I am pretty much up on what is happening. Just never heard from anyone before that had tested one over the mountain passes making that claim.
That engine has several things that Diesels use to go along with boost. But the only way I can figure out to get that low RPM torque is with a long stroke. That hasn’t worked well with that faster burning fuel.
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Old 12-25-2019, 06:10 PM   #63
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Originally Posted by 45RPM View Post
This is my first time towing with the EcoBoost and I'm excited about it. Our former TV was a Toyota Sequoia with a 5.7 and sometimes it would be screaming as we went over a highway overpass!

Our trip is 1500 miles each way. Sequoia got 7.5 mpg. With an average size tank we were starting to look for gas every 2 hours! The F150 should be in the 9.5 - 10.5 mpg range. And with the 36 gallon tank, we expect to stop once on the road and again at the end of the day.
Definitely better with the boost on that engine.
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Old 12-25-2019, 10:35 PM   #64
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This is my first time towing with the EcoBoost and I'm excited about it. Our former TV was a Toyota Sequoia with a 5.7 and sometimes it would be screaming as we went over a highway overpass!



Our trip is 1500 miles each way. Sequoia got 7.5 mpg. With an average size tank we were starting to look for gas every 2 hours! The F150 should be in the 9.5 - 10.5 mpg range. And with the 36 gallon tank, we expect to stop once on the road and again at the end of the day.


I enjoyed my F-150 with Eco boost. It handled the few trips with the TT well. Don’t recall any mountains, but it handled the winds of west Texas. Yes the reason I traded my Tundra on the F150 was fuel economy and tank size. My wife had a Sequoia and the gearing made it better everyday ride but the Tundra could tow. The eco boost got the same mpg as the Tundra when towing. Even after I added a roush stage 2. However the 36 gallons of fuel compared to 26 was nice. If the wife didn’t decide to upgrade to a 5th wheel probably still be driving the 150. I got heck of deal on it.
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:04 PM   #65
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Tweak your load a bit more if you want because you're moving in the right direction and you've got it figured out, but you're fine. Go have fun and enjoy your trip. As you move along in your camping journey you'll probably do what many of the rest of us have done and get a TV with a bit more capacity. They you'll get a bigger RV, and then a bigger TV. We all do it, at least the folks we roam with. The trucks are forgiving and have capacity built in, the limit numbers you see are the standard manufacturer CYB numbers, as long as you don't get crazy over the line you're fine. Just my opinion, add 50 cents and you can get a decent cup of coffee at Mickey dee's.
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Old 12-30-2019, 08:48 PM   #66
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speed kills (tires, bearings and people)

Anytime you push the limits of a vehicle, it's vital to keep your speed down. Bearing temps, tire temperature and other parts of your driveline heat up with the square of.your velocity, so 70 MPH is almost double the stress as 50 MPH.

Plus your stopping distance becomes a huge safety issue. So slow down, take your time and enjoy the trip. You shouldn't be in a hurry when pulling weight.
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:02 PM   #67
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F150 over by a pinch

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Tweak your load a bit more if you want because you're moving in the right direction and you've got it figured out, but you're fine. Go have fun and enjoy your trip. As you move along in your camping journey you'll probably do what many of the rest of us have done and get a TV with a bit more capacity. They you'll get a bigger RV, and then a bigger TV. We all do it, at least the folks we roam with. The trucks are forgiving and have capacity built in, the limit numbers you see are the standard manufacturer CYB numbers, as long as you don't get crazy over the line you're fine. Just my opinion, add 50 cents and you can get a decent cup of coffee at Mickey dee's.
i would not recommend what i am about to subject and im not endorsing any thing im about to say ..
I put a set of air bag's on my 14,000 class A one time.
i was realy quite surprised how much it helped with handling i could actually make the A Ride very stiff and very hard
move your luggage around and may be think about putting a pair of AIR RIDE bags in the rear .....

only other subjection is to trade in the truck go with a 250
we have a 2000 dodge 3500 dully cummins i get over 15 to a gal .
going smaller is not always going to get you the mi's to a gal
it puts a lot of stress and wair and air on the truck ...
good luck
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Old 12-30-2019, 09:29 PM   #68
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Of course if you add airbags to the rear axle and even run just a few pounds in them you are effectively increasing the rear GAWR for the rear axle which is usually set by the rating on the rear suspension springs. It is not uncommon for people to modify their tow vehicles to to more safely but those modifications do effectively increase the ratings whether the air bag company says so or not. Once you start adding suspension additions the factory ratings basically go out the window and that includes being held liable if you are involved in an accident. Just have a professional suspension shop do the install and you will be protected from liability.
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:08 PM   #69
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First, safety factors built into pickups help with those “soil your underpants” moments. Why borrow from the safety factor?

Second, air bags do not improve your GVWR or your GAWR. Air bags aid your factory suspension and elevate the rear end but your axles are still the same axles and they’re rated for whatever they’re rated for without consideration for the suspension.

Now, I’m not saying to strictly obey those ratings - I’ve done it myself. I’m just advocating that you should limit how much of the safety factor you eat up by exceeding those ratings.
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:11 PM   #70
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Second, air bags do not improve your GVWR or your GAWR. Air bags aid your factory suspension and elevate the rear end but your axles are still the same axles and they’re rated for whatever they’re rated for without consideration for the suspension.

Hmm, then tell me why a Ram 2500 SRW and Ram 3500 SRW have the same rear axle yet different axle ratings if not because they have different sets of springs?
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:44 PM   #71
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Hmm, then tell me why a Ram 2500 SRW and Ram 3500 SRW have the same rear axle yet different axle ratings if not because they have different sets of springs?
I suspect that's an internet myth. Here's why.

Lots of people on the internet claim that the F-250 and F-350 SRW have the same rear axle and the only difference is the springs but I was able to find an actual spec sheet from Ford that confirms on my 2016 model year they have different axles.

I would be surprised if the 2500 and 3500 SRW RAMs aren't the same. You'd have to check with RAM to confirm if they use the exact same axle.
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Old 12-30-2019, 10:51 PM   #72
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I suspect that's an internet myth. Here's why.

Lots of people on the internet claim that the F-250 and F-350 SRW have the same rear axle and the only difference is the springs but I was able to find an actual spec sheet from Ford that confirms on my 2016 model year they have different axles.

I would be surprised if the 2500 and 3500 SRW RAMs aren't the same. You'd have to check with RAM to confirm if they use the exact same axle.

Took all of a 20 second Google search to find this article.......... not exactly a myth.......


https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2018/0...0s-differ.html
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Old 12-30-2019, 11:08 PM   #73
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Took all of a 20 second Google search to find this article.......... not exactly a myth.......


https://news.pickuptrucks.com/2018/0...0s-differ.html
With all due respect, I bet I could find info on the internet within 20 seconds that is inaccurate for my model year Super Duty. Just because you can find it on the internet that's no guarantee of its accuracy.

If you can find and post a link to a spec sheet from RAM confirming they use the same rear axle I'll be glad to say I'm wrong.

I would also note that axle ratings are established by the axle manufacturer not the assembling factory's engineers.
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Old 12-31-2019, 05:30 AM   #74
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Hi RPM. How closely do the HaulGauge measurements line up with the scales?
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Old 12-31-2019, 07:54 AM   #75
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45RPM-

I find it doubtful that a Haul Gauge can do all the wonderful things advertised with any accuracy. Since you have used it and also used the CAT scales can you tell us how well the Haul Gauge compares to the CAT scales and your Sherline measurement?
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:20 AM   #76
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So you’re over on your drive axle by 30 pounds.....

Do you think the wheels are going to pop off of it??

I’d quit worrying and go.
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Old 12-31-2019, 08:41 AM   #77
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Originally Posted by itat View Post
I suspect that's an internet myth. Here's why.

Lots of people on the internet claim that the F-250 and F-350 SRW have the same rear axle and the only difference is the springs but I was able to find an actual spec sheet from Ford that confirms on my 2016 model year they have different axles.

I would be surprised if the 2500 and 3500 SRW RAMs aren't the same. You'd have to check with RAM to confirm if they use the exact same axle.
Ram 2500 Crew HD 6.7 5750 front and 6000 rear ..... https://www.tfltruck.com/wp-content/...wing-chart.pdf .... my Ram 3500 SRW 6000 front 7000 rear Thanks
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Old 12-31-2019, 09:33 AM   #78
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To go back to your original question, you may not be using your WD hitch correctly. As one noted, you should adjust the tension on it till your truck is level. Tighten the bars BEFORE you load the hitch. That is:

1. Lower trailer onto ball but not loading it.
2. Attach and tighten load bars.
3. Lower trailer/ raise jack.

Experiment with tension till you get level truck. That will shift the load to the front axel.
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:33 AM   #79
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To go back to your original question, you may not be using your WD hitch correctly. As one noted, you should adjust the tension on it till your truck is level. Tighten the bars BEFORE you load the hitch. That is:

1. Lower trailer onto ball but not loading it.
2. Attach and tighten load bars.
3. Lower trailer/ raise jack.

Experiment with tension till you get level truck. That will shift the load to the front axel.

Yep, that is good! One thing I might add from back when I towed only bumper pull campers with a WD hitch, once the trailer is on the ball use the trailer jack to lift the back end of the tow vehicle so it makes it easier to put the proper amount of tension on the weight distributing bars. Some will say that this could damage the hitch coupler but that is what I have been doing when hitching up a trailer with a WD hitch since 1981 when my parents got their Argosy (economy version of an Airstream, painted body, not polished) and towed it with a 1981 Jeep Grand Wagoneer.
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Old 12-31-2019, 10:39 AM   #80
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With all due respect, I bet I could find info on the internet within 20 seconds that is inaccurate for my model year Super Duty. Just because you can find it on the internet that's no guarantee of its accuracy.

If you can find and post a link to a spec sheet from RAM confirming they use the same rear axle I'll be glad to say I'm wrong.

I would also note that axle ratings are established by the axle manufacturer not the assembling factory's engineers.

Well, other than actual weight ratings I cannot find a "spec" sheet stating the axles are the same but I take it on the word of one of my best friends who happens to be the lead diesel mechanic at the Ram dealership where I bought my truck. When he tells me that the axles are identical given identical drive trains and only the springs are different I tend to believe him because he works on these trucks everyday.
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