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Old 11-01-2016, 04:35 PM   #541
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Impossible to just post pictures and just enjoy the thread isn't it...


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Old 11-01-2016, 04:35 PM   #542
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2011 HD 2500 rated to 17,500 for fifth wheel and same engine as the 1 ton. Not trying to get the weight police in an uproar...already know what they have to say and don't really care...

In the past, we have had it in the mountains, we now pretty much keep it in FL as a seasonal.
As if some of us really give a 'rats behind' what the 'weight police' say. We just keep pulling with our underpowered, under suspensioned, under transmissioned and under rear ended vehicles. Have probably towed as much or more than anyone on the Weight Patrol.

If you don't have an 800hp Mack, you shouldn't pull a camper according to the WP.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:26 PM   #543
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My TV & TT

My TV: 2016 Ford F-150 w/ Coyote Engine (5.0)
My TT: 2016 Vibe Extreme Lite 245BHS

Equalizer WDH hitch / anti-sway

Very Happy with this setup I can get about 13-14 mpg around 60 mph.

I may go with an F-250 in a few year to open up more possibilities...
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Old 11-01-2016, 11:27 PM   #544
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I was pulling my 6500 pound 30 footer with my Nissan Titan, soon to be pulling a 3008W with it. I once got talked into pulling a friend's "camper" 100 miles. It turned out to be a park model at 42' long, 12-8 high, and 11,800 pounds. I was not comfy at 65 MPH, but 55 was stable and comfy (in very light cross wind). An Equalizing hitch would have helped too...

Steven
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Old 11-02-2016, 01:35 AM   #545
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Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289 View Post
This is what I tow with. Had to lift the RV 3" so it would not tow nose high.

Attachment 124434

Sweet setup, how much do she weight?
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:14 AM   #546
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As if some of us really give a 'rats behind' what the 'weight police' say. We just keep pulling with our underpowered, under suspensioned, under transmissioned and under rear ended vehicles. Have probably towed as much or more than anyone on the Weight Patrol.

If you don't have an 800hp Mack, you shouldn't pull a camper according to the WP.
There are many ways this could go, first, if you HAVE the money to do it right (properly matching the vehicle to the trailer) then its plain old ignorant not to. your not just making it safer for you and your family but, everyone else on the road as well (unless you don't give a rats behind about your family and or others on the road with ya. second, of' course I think that would be pretty awesome to have a 800hp mac but that's just plain ol' overkill for most trailers on the road. third, if you're first starting out or moving up in size (weight category) you should find the trailer you would like to have, match it up with your truck and if its to big for your truck to pull, get a bigger truck first. fourth, if you are just a poor person like myself, you can build an old truck to fit your needs. really, its all common sense. if you care about yourself, your family and the other people on the road and your really don't want to kill anybody with your rig due to your brakes not being strong enough to stop you before hitting the person in front of you . Now if you are the kind of guy that don't give a rats behind about the law, you'll be that statistic we read about " brakes to small for rig, failed and killed two adults and an infant" and then you will be behind bars for the rest of your life. though to RV, is supposed to be fun and a lifestyle for some it is a dangerous activity, especially if you don't give a rats behind. ow, ya, usually that guy that doesn't give a rats behind is the same guy that ruins what was supposed to be a fun vacation for someone else.

in conclusion, the "weight police" as you politely put it. you might think its a joke or plain ol' make fun of those people, but really those are the people that care and are willing to take the extra time and effort to help out other people.

there is no need to reply to this I have nothing further to say about it.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:32 AM   #547
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Attachment 124308

Attachment 124309

I use my 1981 GMC Sierra Classic Camper Special 3500 1 ton dooly, std cab, 8' bed, 454 modified 463 cid, modified TH400 w/ Gear-Vendor attached. My dad was the Original owner and he towed his 32' Holliday Rambler cross-country, Canada and to Alaska on the old Alaskan highway then back to southern California. I figured if my dad could do it back then under harder conditions, I could do it today with his truck. I'm towing my 2014 366FL Sierra 5th wheel. getting everything prepped and ironing out all the wrinkles in both the RV and the Truck for the next few years, when my wife retires we will be on the road indefinitely. keeping it safe.....lovin the outdoors.....
Thats awsome, here in the rust belt there are so few of those old trucks left. I love the old chevrolets and GMC,s and would like to find a 3+3 camper special to play around with.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:35 AM   #548
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So, if I told you that a Ford Pinto was the safest car ever manufactured you couldn't refute that since you've never owned one? Wow. And, since when is a first hand account hear say? I guess I was just hallucinating the time she actually limped it into my driveway with a mechanical failure. There are MANY accounts of issues with the 6.0 from actual owners on this and MANY other forums.

Where is that head buried in sand emoticon again????
I did own one in the early 70's station wagon never had a problem with that one either, I know of plenty of people on this fourm that are still driving stock 6.0, yes they had a problem when they first came out but not all 6.0 are bad, plenty of proof of that here on FR forum.
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Well I did 3 times over. The 6.0 was actually a great motor if you studded the heads and "fixed" the EGR/oil cooler problem. I know plenty of people that blew head gaskets on stock motors and it was most assuredly due to the design problems. Two of our 3 farm trucks went through this before we did a preventative upgrade on the third. My cousin now drives that one, tuned, bigger turbo, injectors, etc. and he beats the hell out of it daily. Other than blowing up transmissions and rear ends the thing is a beast.

Oh, and the stock ones are notorious for dirty, sticky turbos also.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:36 AM   #549
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Originally Posted by PhoneDude 8289 View Post
This is what I tow with. Had to lift the RV 3" so it would not tow nose high.

Attachment 124434
your truck is a 4x4? did you lift it also? looks like a nice rig. did you simply flip the axles on the trailer?

does your truck have a short bed? do you use a slider receiver?

I know when I see something I am interested in I normally put out a shotgun blast of questions, this is one of my ways of getting familiar.

In the picture your truck looks like a 1/2 ton, what size is it? looks like you might be getting some pretty good gas millage.
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:39 AM   #550
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lgray, it is totally believable that your duramax can do what you say, the problem is the weight rating of a 2500 towing 17,000 lb. (1) lighter suspension than the 3500 (2) and most important, BRAKES, too small for the weight being towed. I would definitely check those 2 items. other than that, power to ya.

in third world countries they use little Toyota trucks and load them as high as a 2 story building, the question is not if it could be done, the real question is if it could be done safely.

remember you are not alone on the road.
Having owned 2 2500HD's and anticipating my 3rd this year I think the weight ratings have more to do with DOT rules commercial registrations and CDL laws for working guys like me than actual carrying capacity of the vehicle. I also don't believe there is much if any difference in the brakes, I think it's all in the spring pack and torsion bar keys.

I've had 14,500 pounds on a bumper pull in my 03 and never once worried about pulling power or losing control. The truck sat level with close to 2000lbs of tongue weight I'm sure a newer one with a 5th wheel or goose neck would easily handle an additional 3000lbs assuming the driver understood the dynamics of the trailer
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Old 11-02-2016, 05:55 AM   #551
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Thats awsome, here in the rust belt there are so few of those old trucks left. I love the old chevrolets and GMC,s and would like to find a 3+3 camper special to play around with.
Thanks, good thing this truck has spent a lot of its life in dry climate. my dad did use it to travel for a few years, but he settled in back here in California.

A lot of work I have done and have had done (waist of cash), the engine rebuilder used a cheap not hardened Chinese crankshaft and other parts in my short block and the transmission rebuilder did not properly install it (pinched wires and cheap torque converter). I was really hoping I could TRUST a shop or two to do what you pay them to do. I was hit hard when I discovered that I haven't been able to find a shop I can trust in southern California (except 2) I trust the gear vendor manufacture in San Diego and big o tires in Valencia. in 23 years that's it. its hard doing your own major work when your a full timer. the very first thing is finding a place to do the work. So I figure I have about 3 to 4 years to complete my truck and iron out all the bugs before the wife retires and we hit the road.
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:08 AM   #552
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Thanks, good thing this truck has spent a lot of its life in dry climate. my dad did use it to travel for a few years, but he settled in back here in California.

A lot of work I have done and have had done (waist of cash), the engine rebuilder used a cheap not hardened Chinese crankshaft and other parts in my short block and the transmission rebuilder did not properly install it (pinched wires and cheap torque converter). I was really hoping I could TRUST a shop or two to do what you pay them to do. I was hit hard when I discovered that I haven't been able to find a shop I can trust in southern California (except 2) I trust the gear vendor manufacture in San Diego and big o tires in Valencia. in 23 years that's it. its hard doing your own major work when your a full timer. the very first thing is finding a place to do the work. So I figure I have about 3 to 4 years to complete my truck and iron out all the bugs before the wife retires and we hit the road.
before she retires and you hit the road in that thing make sure you can afford all the fuel the 4BBL can suck down. I highly suggest installing a TBI system slightly better economy and much improved driveability. easy swap from an 87 or 88 although I think up to a 91 with a 454 will work
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Old 11-02-2016, 06:39 AM   #553
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Having owned 2 2500HD's and anticipating my 3rd this year I think the weight ratings have more to do with DOT rules commercial registrations and CDL laws for working guys like me than actual carrying capacity of the vehicle. I also don't believe there is much if any difference in the brakes, I think it's all in the spring pack and torsion bar keys.

I've had 14,500 pounds on a bumper pull in my 03 and never once worried about pulling power or losing control. The truck sat level with close to 2000lbs of tongue weight I'm sure a newer one with a 5th wheel or goose neck would easily handle an additional 3000lbs assuming the driver understood the dynamics of the trailer
I once owned a f250 lariat crew cab, had the v10. I used it to tow my toy box from Las Vegas to So. Cal, it was only a 27' 5th wheel and it was a dog climbing the grade out of Nevada. but the brakes worked great for that size trailer.

A couple things I do know in the difference between the 3/4 T and 1T trucks and the number one thing is the braking system on the one tones are stronger (yes disc are much better than drum brakes) and the brake drums and / or rotors and calipers are bigger than on the 3/4 ton. and if you were to check the leaf springs, the one ton are rated accordingly.

this is not to say that what you have is right or wrong, I'm only sharing information.

D.O.T., Yep I have one of them commercial licenses, I don't know about all states but in the state of California weight is a big thing for the department of motor vehicles as well.

In this state they have their own drivers handbook for driving or towing an RV. I actually got the endorsement to be legal to tow between 10,000 lbs and 15,000 lbs and anything over that weight you must have a non-commercial or commercial class a license. so, weight does matter. brakes matter to, if your motorhome or truck has air brakes you must have that endorsement on your license also, and there is a max of a 65' total length limit and if you are driving a motorhome longer than 40' you must have a class a license. so, weight, size and brakes all matter in this state. I would seriously check the d.m.v. in the states you travel to ensure you are driving legally.

if you get in an accident and you are not properly license, your insurance will not cover you, doesn't matter whos fault, to get pulled over and not properly licensed you are parking it, possibly being impounded.

I hope everyone reads this and does some research for the states they frequently travel or before going on your next adventure.

I am simply sharing what I think is important information.

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Old 11-02-2016, 07:03 AM   #554
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before she retires and you hit the road in that thing make sure you can afford all the fuel the 4BBL can suck down. I highly suggest installing a TBI system slightly better economy and much improved driveability. easy swap from an 87 or 88 although I think up to a 91 with a 454 will work
already done, mild cam, Edelbrock intake, Edelbrock heads, headers MSD Ignition system, Atomic EFI system ((in-hand not installed yet), With the Gear Vendor I was getting about 14 mpg (carbureted) before I had my transmission rebuilt, now I am getting about 9, I have to set up a bench in my storage and rebuild my other TH400 myself. ( like they say, if you want it done right, you gotta do it yourself.) And its more than just the EFI, you got to modify the entire fuel system, (changing from 6 psi to 60 psi is a big difference. lets not forget about changing the exhaust also, have to add cats (Cal. smog) change wiring harness for the check Eng. light. and more..... not really a walk in the park.

Thanks for the heads up.
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Old 11-02-2016, 07:42 AM   #555
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There are many ways this could go, first, if you HAVE the money to do it right (properly matching the vehicle to the trailer) then its plain old ignorant not to. your not just making it safer for you and your family but, everyone else on the road as well (unless you don't give a rats behind about your family and or others on the road with ya. second, of' course I think that would be pretty awesome to have a 800hp mac but that's just plain ol' overkill for most trailers on the road. third, if you're first starting out or moving up in size (weight category) you should find the trailer you would like to have, match it up with your truck and if its to big for your truck to pull, get a bigger truck first. fourth, if you are just a poor person like myself, you can build an old truck to fit your needs. really, its all common sense. if you care about yourself, your family and the other people on the road and your really don't want to kill anybody with your rig due to your brakes not being strong enough to stop you before hitting the person in front of you . Now if you are the kind of guy that don't give a rats behind about the law, you'll be that statistic we read about " brakes to small for rig, failed and killed two adults and an infant" and then you will be behind bars for the rest of your life. though to RV, is supposed to be fun and a lifestyle for some it is a dangerous activity, especially if you don't give a rats behind. ow, ya, usually that guy that doesn't give a rats behind is the same guy that ruins what was supposed to be a fun vacation for someone else.

in conclusion, the "weight police" as you politely put it. you might think its a joke or plain ol' make fun of those people, but really those are the people that care and are willing to take the extra time and effort to help out other people.

there is no need to reply to this I have nothing further to say about it.
I'll reply any way. You spent a lot of time talking braking capability only to then recommend using an older truck if on a budget. The only problem with that is the brakes on many older vehicles are MUCH less capable than any of today's trucks, from 1/2 ton on up. The bottom line is that, if your trailer brakes fail you're going to have a hard time stopping regardless of what you're towing with. And considering that SRW 1 ton trucks have identical braking systems to 3/4 tons, it's a pointless argument anyway. Maybe someone with knowledge (not speculation) can chime in and tell is if there are larger brakes on the DRW trucks???
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:10 AM   #556
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I'll reply any way. You spent a lot of time talking braking capability only to then recommend using an older truck if on a budget. The only problem with that is the brakes on many older vehicles are MUCH less capable than any of today's trucks, from 1/2 ton on up. The bottom line is that, if your trailer brakes fail you're going to have a hard time stopping regardless of what you're towing with. And considering that SRW 1 ton trucks have identical braking systems to 3/4 tons, it's a pointless argument anyway. Maybe someone with knowledge (not speculation) can chime in and tell is if there are larger brakes on the DRW trucks???

if you were to read what I wrote you would have read "you can BUILD an old truck to FIT your needs. " YOU HAVE HEARD OF MODIFING HAVN'T YOU?

AND THE REPLY FOR YOUR STATEMENT ON SRW VS DRW, SRW and DRW drums do not interchange. DRW drums are for 12.125" dia, by 3.5" wide shoes. SRW drums are for 12" dia. by 3" shoes. So yes, going from single rear wheels to dual rear wheels does make a difference. wait for it....... dual rear wheels carry a larger GVW, THERE FORE NEED MORE BRAKING POWER.

have a great day,,,,, goin fishing.......
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:19 AM   #557
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if you were to read what I wrote you would have read "you can BUILD an old truck to FIT your needs. " YOU HAVE HEARD OF MODIFING HAVN'T YOU?

AND THE REPLY FOR YOUR STATEMENT ON SRW VS DRW, SRW and DRW drums do not interchange. DRW drums are for 12.125" dia, by 3.5" wide shoes. SRW drums are for 12" dia. by 3" shoes. So yes, going from single rear wheels to dual rear wheels does make a difference. wait for it....... dual rear wheels carry a larger GVW, THERE FORE NEED MORE BRAKING POWER.

have a great day,,,,, goin fishing.......

Are you sure that you're not over weight? Best I remember from the early 80's trucks I have seen and been around is that the best configured "super Dooley" as they were called were rated to tow 12k.

Any good Weight Policeman worth his weight would know that you can't change the ratings no matter what you change. Ha!


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Old 11-02-2016, 09:27 AM   #558
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Frames can be modified, brakes changed, rear ends changed and suspension changed and lo and behold, the original GVW SW is changed to a DW.
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Old 11-02-2016, 09:27 AM   #559
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About 18 moths ago, this thread started with...
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What's your tow vehicle's pros and cons?
Can we get back to that instead of pointing out what everyone thinks is wrong with some other person's TV/reasoning?

Thank you for playing nice.
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Old 11-02-2016, 10:18 AM   #560
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if you were to read what I wrote you would have read "you can BUILD an old truck to FIT your needs. " YOU HAVE HEARD OF MODIFING HAVN'T YOU?

AND THE REPLY FOR YOUR STATEMENT ON SRW VS DRW, SRW and DRW drums do not interchange. DRW drums are for 12.125" dia, by 3.5" wide shoes. SRW drums are for 12" dia. by 3" shoes. So yes, going from single rear wheels to dual rear wheels does make a difference. wait for it....... dual rear wheels carry a larger GVW, THERE FORE NEED MORE BRAKING POWER.

have a great day,,,,, goin fishing.......
Are any new trucks still using drum brakes? This is one reason I pointed out that older trucks will have less braking power- the use of rear drums as opposed to disc. Go old enough and you'd have non anti-lock drums all the way around. Unfortunately for my wife, I have heard of modifying and rarely leave anything I buy alone. I think it would be very difficult and costly to convert drums to disc, and I would think it would be impossible to change them to anti-lock, but I haven't explored that.
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