Which WDH to buy

[cw1001]

I have the E2 hitch which is the cheaper equalizer. It works fine with one big exception. On some highways my Truck and TT get in to a real bad bounce up and down, about 3-5 times a second. I travel 1,000 trips. The hitch work great until I run in to those sections of road. One common trip I make, there is 2 sections of 20 mile sections that I have the problem. My truck, camper and me get one heck of a beating. I get a bad headache when hit those sections. I am going to move to he Anderson because all the reviews I read, that bounce won't exist. I have call the manufacture of the hitch and they complete beat around the bush and never answer with a solution to the bounce issues. That is 40 miles out of 1000 miles. If I didn't have the bounce issue, I would keep my E2 hitch or move to an equalizer. the E2 seems to be wearing parts quickly. The L brackets are wearing quickly where the bars ride for friction for sway control and the turn buckles are wearing and I can't get the adjustments the books says I can. I do like the idea of the Anderson being easy to setup and light. Checking the E2 and adjusting if I change my load is a pain. Its heavy and takes 250 lbs of torque on the main bolts.

[SailorSam20500]

Wes Tausend gave one of the better discussions on the various available hitches.


I'll add a couple of points. Many of the under $1000 hitches require some degree of tension on the WD bars to function. Latching and Unlatching the WD bars on some of these hitches can be dangerous. One EXPERIENCED member of this forum busted a toe when unlatching. He really thought all of the tension was off the bars - oops.
I can only talk to the Propride which I use. Sway elimination function is totally independent of WD. You can run with zero tension on the bars. Bars are permanently installed and tension is applied using a jack - only danger is if they break. Amount of WD tension can be very finely tuned - not limited by "number of links". Hitching and unhitching is extremely easy if you have a backup cam on the TV. I think my average hitching and unhitching time is less than with any other hitch.
It will be harder for someone to steal your trailer unless they have the appropriate stinger, you can't just drop the trailer on a ball. Without the stinger, you have to remove the hitch or rely on the safety chains.

Last side benefit of the PP and Hensley - I can just about guarantee you will be able to drop your tailgate while hitched.
If price is an issue, watch the want ads, folks do sell them unsed, usually when they upgrade to a 5ver.

With 30k+ miles on my hitch, I'm very satisfied with it.

Safe travels with whatever you pick.

[ardakota]

Originally Posted by hobienick

Another vote for the Anderson. Any who is adjusting the tension nuts each time did not read thier manual. The only time I make adjustments is if I significantly change the load in my trailer or bed.

I also agree with the posters wondering if you even need a WDH with your truck. As for sway, unless your TT axles are really far forward leaving a large portion of your trailer behind them you should be able to load so you do not experience sway.

Try your trailer out before buying a WDH. If its comfortable for you, no need for one. If not, then you can buy one.

I agree when I pull my toy hauler nuts are turned 4 rotations and if i put my harley in it i add a half rotation to each nut. Works perfectly every time i pull.

[TC of NC]

WOW my head is spinning now. I was surprised no one mentioned anything about the Curt Trutrack 17500 WDH. Based on everything I heard from you'all I will just put the trailer on a ball with the correct height to make the trailer level and tow worry free. My truck is a Silverado 2500 HD Duramax Crew Cab with tow package and a 6.5' bed so maybe a WDH would be over kill. If I experience any handling issues I will then look into upgrading. I do some towing with an open trailer for my drag racing car but this is my first RV/travel trailer/camper and I am glad I joined the forum. I was not expecting so many great and detailed responses. Thanks for all the great replies.

[PDuB-IA2MI]

A great education here, thanks!

The comments about "try without first, see if you need it" I'm assuming is due to the HD Chevy as a tow vehicle. I have a 2020 Traverse w/ Tow Package getting ready to pull a ~3800# Wolf Pup. Tongue weight limit is 600#, 5000# trailer. In my case I'm assuming a WDH is a yes by default? I was planning on the 600/6000 Equal-i-zer.

[BigH]

Originally Posted by PDuB-IA2MI

A great education here, thanks!

The comments about "try without first, see if you need it" I'm assuming is due to the HD Chevy as a tow vehicle. I have a 2020 Traverse w/ Tow Package getting ready to pull a ~3800# Wolf Pup. Tongue weight limit is 600#, 5000# trailer. In my case I'm assuming a WDH is a yes by default? I was planning on the 600/6000 Equal-i-zer.

I wouldn't do anything by 'default' or take advice from folks on here that don't know about your tow vehicle. The answer is in your manual and you need to read it carefully...Your manual will tell you when a wdh is required. (It doesn't happen very often, but occasionally an suv pops up that has instructions to not use a wdh)

If your manual tells you a wdh is required, then I would come here and research a wdh for your needs.

[comfun1]

Andersen! I've had others.

[Chuck_S]

Lots of choices but the starting point is not the brand but the weight you need to distribute which includes the tongue weight, the weight rating of the rear axle on your truck, and the cargo capacity of the truck.

Safe towing requires of 10% - 15% of the trailers loaded weight on the ball (use the gross weight rating for planning, not the published tongue weight). Got a 10,000 pound trailer? You could need 1500 pounds on the ball. This is a matter of a little experimentation.

That 1500 pounds on the ball will be more than that on the real axle.

That said I've been using my Equalizer (brand) WDH for 16 seasons. One trailer. A progression of three SUVs. Dirt simple once setup. No hint of fishtailing (but I measured my tongue weight to be sure I was in spec). Late Ford trucks have some sort of built in sway control build it. Not sure of lesser brands.

-- Chuck

[wjijr1951]

Originally Posted by TC of NC

I am buying a new Forest River Vibe 26RK special ordered from the factory which is 33 ft long and will be picking it up from the dealer in a few days. I have a 2018 2500 HD Duramax Diesel so I know I have plenty of truck. My question is what is the favored WDH brand. I have been considering the Curt Trutrack 17500 which is rated 8-10K and my TT loaded will be around 7500lb. I also hear good things about the Equalizer brand. I would like to hear what people think about what is the better brands to buy. I won't be getting the type that uses chains for tension I will prefer a better WDH that has sway control incorporated into the design. Thanks.

Based on recent reviews and feedback at our local RV consignment dealer (PPL), I went with the Andersen No-Sway Weight Distribution Hitch from Andersen Hitches. So far so good.

[Rick J]

Originally Posted by nutdriver

You will get lots of opinions to this question. I probably have 15,000 miles of towing now with my Andersen WDH and it has been an excellent choice. Absolutely zero sway even in high Kansas winds, no grease to mess with, and it is very light and quick for easy hookup and disconnects. Your expected hitch weight appears to be 790 lbs which is well within the Andersen capability.

Have you ever actually Weighed your unit at a scale? I own a hot shot business in Alberta. From personal experience on our scales I can tell you that there is no way the Andersen has the capability to transfer sufficient weight off the rear axle and back onto the steer axle.

[Old Forester]

We have the Curt model 17500 you are considering. Windjammer 3029, 950 lbs tongue and 8,000 for the TT loaded. Moved up from Harbor Freight round bars with chains. We are so pleased with the Curt Detent ball sway control system coupled with a square bar and friction saddle. IT really works! I almost pulled the trigger on the Anderson, but the physics did not appeal to me ultimately. I cannot afford a Hensley or even it's cheaper brother...

[hogdooz]

I really like our Equalizer 4 point sway control. We have a 35' Forest River Toy Hauler with two Harleys in the garage and tow with a 2019 2500HD Denali Duramax standard bed, we've been all over the western US so far and this WDH works great when set up correctly. I had to set it up myself, dealer just installed it without correct setup. Definitely use the sway bracket jackets, cuts down noise and wear drastically. Easy to hook up and detach. You do need to weigh your trailer, the posted specs are seldom correct. My dry unloaded trailer weighed 900# more than the posted weight. And I weigh my tongue weight for loading the trailer.

[kwindrem]

I highly recommend the Andersen WDH if it meets your weight requirements. I've been using one for two years between my Geo Pro and Highlander. I liked the design and the light weight was essential in my case.

The Geo Pro is a small trailer so there isn't a lot of sail area but when hit with a gust of wind, at most, the rig bobbles once and continues on a straight track. I towed without any weight distribution or sway control and the Andersen really helps with both.

I can often hitch and unhitch without adjusting the chains. You simply raise the jack until there is a bit of slack in the chains then unhook the chains from the plate or remove the plate from the bottom of the hitch. (I prefer to leave the plate attached to the hitch and unhook the chains so I can store the entire hitch out of the way.)

There are times when loosening the chain on one side or the other is necessary when hitching back up and the angle between the trailer and the TV is different than when you unhitched. In this case, loosening the "short" chain can be done by hand. Of course, the chain needs to be retightened once you are hitched.

Andersen warns against banging on the plate to rotate the ball and plate if a large change is needed. They have procedures in the manual for straightening out the plate by attaching only one chain then pulling forward a bit. That works if you have the space.

I've worked out an alternate so I don't need to move the rig: Drop the plate from the bottom of the hitch and connect the chains to the plate. Lay the plate under the hitch. Insert a 2-3' 1/2" bar into the hole at the bottom of the hitch and use it to rotate the ball so the bar is in line with the holes in the plate. You should then be able to raise the jack and reconnect the plate to the ball.

For tightening the chains, Andersen provides a socket that fits a 1/2" ratchet, but the ratchet covers the bolt threads which you use to reset the tension. I purchased a closed-end ratchet wrench that fits the nut without covering the bolts so you can count the threads as you tighten.

The hitch is completely silent when turning! But I get a minor amount of squeak from the ball in the receiver when vertical angles change. To minimize this, I spray the ball and receiver with some lithium grease before hitching. That also helps unhitching.

[wicook]

After towing with a chain-type WDH, I added friction sway bars to try to reduce the sway from oncoming trucks and side winds. After a few more trips, I got an Equalizer 4-pt. It did a good job, but I still had to contend with sway, just not as much of it. I finally got tired of (and from) dealing with sway and sprung for a Hensley Cub. Wow! No sway at all regardless of the circumstances. I can still feel it when oncoming semis' pressure wave hit the truck and trailer, but there's absolutely no sway. Same for gusty crosswinds. I'm not going back.

Originally Posted by TC of NC

I am buying a new Forest River Vibe 26RK special ordered from the factory which is 33 ft long and will be picking it up from the dealer in a few days. I have a 2018 2500 HD Duramax Diesel so I know I have plenty of truck. My question is what is the favored WDH brand. I have been considering the Curt Trutrack 17500 which is rated 8-10K and my TT loaded will be around 7500lb. I also hear good things about the Equalizer brand. I would like to hear what people think about what is the better brands to buy. I won't be getting the type that uses chains for tension I will prefer a better WDH that has sway control incorporated into the design. Thanks.

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by wicook

After towing with a chain-type WDH, I added friction sway bars to try to reduce the sway from oncoming trucks and side winds. After a few more trips, I got an Equalizer 4-pt. It did a good job, but I still had to contend with sway, just not as much of it. I finally got tired of (and from) dealing with sway and sprung for a Hensley Cub. Wow! No sway at all regardless of the circumstances. I can still feel it when oncoming semis' pressure wave hit the truck and trailer, but there's absolutely no sway. Same for gusty crosswinds. I'm not going back.

Considering you were towing a TT that loaded, was probably right at your Ridgeline's max capacities, especially the loaded tongue weight, no wonder it's better with the Hensley.
As I've said before, Hensley and PP are great for marginal tow combos, like your Ridgeline.
But a well matched combo does great with a modern tech WDH with integrated sway control.
For example, my F150 3.5 EcoBoost with the Max Tow package/1828lbs of payload, towing a 26' TT weighing around 6500lbs loaded and loaded tongue weight of 750lbs.

[Bluepigs]

Blue Ox Sway pro. Couldn’t be happier. Just get a breaker bar and dump the tool that comes with the sway pro

[wszApex245]

Originally Posted by Wes Tausend

...

“The ball will still be messy.“

“It does appear, however, that tension must always be tediously adjusted(?) by a fair amount of 'nut-turning'”


Wes

I recommend the Andersen hitch. I pull 7000# trailer with a Ford F-150 with no sway at all. I traveled from the Midwest to West Coast through major thunderstorms with no swaying in July

As an FYI, the ball is not “messy” with grease, because per Andersen’s requirements, the grease is to be removed from the ball/coupler before use to insure friction keeps the ball from turning in the socket. The shaft of the ball turns in the hitch assembly’s friction housing.

Andersen provides a socket with the hitch assembly. One only turns the nut 3-4 full rotations depending upon the amount of weight distribution desired. A drill will never work because of the torque required. I use a ratchet combination wrench which allows me to count 3–4 threads and it takes 10-20 seconds. My wife does one side, which shows how easy it is, I do the other.

[TxRockwood]

Originally Posted by Bluepigs

Blue Ox Sway pro. Couldn’t be happier. Just get a breaker bar and dump the tool that comes with the sway pro

I agree with this! I have the Blue Ox Sway Pro and I lift the back of my truck with the power trailer jack, so the bars are very easy to install. The Blue Ox distributes much more weight than the Andersen.

I called Andersen while I was making my WDH decision and they admitted they can only transfer about 30% of the weight of a "small" trailer. Look at the design and try to imagine how two chains pulling backwards on your hitch head can produce enough leverage to move hundreds of pounds of weight off the back of your truck. As an engineer, I will tell you it is not possible. It does fine with sway control, but they require a "brake pad" on the pressed in ball assembly which will wear out over time. Watch the video on how to replace the pad and you will get the idea.

The Blue Ox does a great job of sway control AND weight distribution, much like the Equalizer 4 point. However, it is completely silent when turning or backing up and requires no grease. I do not like squeaky bars, greasy pivot points or plastic covers, so the Blue Ox easily won out over the Equalizer.

If you do not care about noise when backing into your campsite or greasy hands, buy the Equalizer!

[UPNorth5]

Equalizer, American made and a lifetime warranty! I have 2 one for my TT and one for my Concession Trailer.

[SmittyCorp]

Originally Posted by Rick J

Have you ever actually Weighed your unit at a scale? I own a hot shot business in Alberta. From personal experience on our scales I can tell you that there is no way the Andersen has the capability to transfer sufficient weight off the rear axle and back onto the steer axle.

I agree. I had one, and switched to an equalizer 4 point. The equalizer does much better at W/D. In addition, the Andersen will pull the trailer by the chains only. The ball coupler will be pulled forward against the latch pretty hard. It can cause the coupler to jam making disconnecting harder, and could possibly wear the latch out faster. I will say though, the Andersen had no sway issues, no bouncing, and was silent. The equalizer is the same, except noisier. I think Andersens can be nice for light trailers, or heavy duty trucks where you might not need a lot of W/D, but IMO, they are not good for heavier trailers with lighter TVs.