Will upgrading from 10,000 to 12,000 Equalizer reduce sway?

[ttf5003]

Looking for some advice on whether or not upgrading from a 10,000 lb equalizer to a 12,000 lb equalizer will help reduce sway when being passed by tractor trailer trucks.


My tow vehicle is a 2012 Supercab 6 ½’ bed F150 with the 3.5L ecoboost and max tow package. Up until recently we had a 2014 Jayco 264BH and an Equalizer 10,000 lb hitch. The Jayco was about 29’ long had a dry weight of 4,355 lbs and a hitch weight of 485 lbs. We never had any issue towing it whatsoever.



We recently traded it for a 2022 Rockwood 2509s. The new camper is 26 ft long, 5,440 lbs dry and a tongue wight of 773 lbs. I see reports of people well over 900 lbs when the actually weigh it, I haven’t had a chance to weigh mine yet. The new camper is higher and has a much different shape to the front end.



The F150 pulls it just fine and I don’t have any sway at 60- 65mph, however when a tractor trailer truck passes me from behind it feels like it wants to push me off the road. I stopped at a CAT scale this weekend. My front axle was 3440 lbs, Rear axle 4300 lbs, and the trailer was 5440lbs. My door sticker is 3900lbs for the front and 4050 lbs for the rear so I was overloaded by 250 lbs on the rear axle.



I started thinking about the 1000lbs bars on the equalizer. They have a calculator on their website and it shows I’m borderline on needing 1200lbs bars. Unfortunately I can’t just buy the bars, I need a whole new hitch head so it’s a pretty expensive experiment. But they do say this on their website:


“Tying this into sway control, the higher the hitch rating the stiffer the setup is going to be. This stiffness helps reduce sway. If we compare our examples again, in the 1st example the hitch selected would likely be adequate for nearly all of your trailer towing trips. But there may be times where high winds or passing big rigs make you want even more sway control. In the 2nd example the stiffer setup of the 12k hitch would provide even more sway control, which in turn would help keep the people riding in the tow vehicle safe.”


Other things I’m considering are Timbren SES and Load range E tires on the rear. However we’re thinking about getting a lower mileage truck in the next 12-18months so I don’t want to put much money into this one. However if I can’t figure it out we’ll probably get an F-250 which from what I read will solve all my problems. That would be fine but I really don’t need something that big as my daily driver.


Thanks for reading and any advice on the hitch upgrade.

[Tex94]

I have your exact setup, 10 years newer on the truck.

The LOAD IT JUST RIGHT SOLVES IT ALL crowd is near, so before then….we bought a used ProPride and it was worth even buying a new one—pulls like a gooseneck/5’r. I have 1400lb bars but you can go up Or down on the bars alone no need for a new hitch. The hitch is a lot cheaper than a 3/4 ton. Also. My front and rear axle are 200# difference when it’s hitched up.

Yes the heavier tires aired up will definitely help no matter the hitch. I think you’ll notice a difference wigh stiffer bars and better loading but these things wag hard in my opinion.

Please don’t hesitate to ask anything.

[Bob K4TAX]

Are the tires on the tow vehicle Passenger tires or Light Truck tires? What Tex94 says about more PSI in the tow vehicle tires can help.

I think our rig is similar to yours. (GVRW 7685) You should have 900+ lbs. of tongue weight. If you were to have your rig, ready for camping, weighed on a CAT scale, you'd likely be surprised at how big the numbers have grown.

We have and use 1000/10,000 lb tow bars. Harbor Freight mind you. And I have added the friction-type swaybar. The rig, loaded for camping, 900 lb tongue weight, and at 70 MPH interstate, truckers passing are only noticed in the rearview mirror.

Bob

[Justauser]

RAM 2500 with a Blueox swaypro set to 9 links and Rockwood 2515. It sways on the highway when trucks pass. I've just learned to keep an eye out for them and to compensate on the steering wheel.

I don't think upgrading your tow vehicles going to address the sway issue. But it'll probably make the towing experience overall better. The f-150s and RAM 1500s are not good tow vehicles. They're for contractors to load tools and drywall.

[ttf5003]

Thanks for the responses so far and nice rig Tex94.

I have tried loading all our gear in the nose of the camper on one trip, and most everything behind the rear axles on another and really didn't notice a difference.

I should have mentioned I've been looking at the Propride too. It seems like that will definitely solve the problem but if the heavier duty equalizer would too I'd rather stick with that for simplicity. But the Propride upgrade is a known fix and the Equalizer upgrade is an unknown in my mind.



This one is nearby for $1600, it looks like it has had a hard life. Any thoughts on the picture Tex94?


The tires are Goodyears, same type that would have shipped with the truck. Also the weights on the CAT scale was on the way to the campground, wife, kids, dog, etc inside.



Thanks

[Riich]

I personally would stay with the 1000# bars over the 1200# bars. You are still within your rating weight-wise and going to the heavier 1200# bars will just put more stress on your trailer hitch.

What tires are you running on the Ford and what pressures do you use? That may be part of your issue also.

[DougW]

I think your hitch bars need to be adjusted, the weight numbers you posted makes it sound like you are not getting enough weight transfer to the front. To verify this, get out a tape measure and measure from the ground to the wheel well on all 4 tires, write that down. Put the trailer and truck on a flat surface and set the trailer so it is level front to rear, back the truck up to the trailer and make sure the top of the hitch ball and the top of the coupler are as close to the same height as possible, if the hitch ball is a bit higher it will be fine. Hitch up and put on the bars then remeasure. At a minimum the front axel should return to its original height. The trailer should be level and the rear of the truck will likely be just a bit lower. There is a very good video on Youtube from Reese hitches on how to set one up, the process is the same for just about any equalizer hitch.

[Aussieguy]

"The new camper is higher and has a much different shape to the front end. "

Higher and different shape ... equals a different feel, that may just take a while to get use to.

Look in the mirrors and see how LONG the sway lasts..
If
1) trailer simply moves once as it gets pushed
or
2) is it a series of small sways (trailer is going one side to the other )


when you got the new one did anyone adjust the WDH
you may be lifting weight off your front tires making it easier for the trailer to push you around ?

[GolfingDave]

Originally Posted by DougW

I think your hitch bars need to be adjusted, the weight numbers you posted makes it sound like you are not getting enough weight transfer to the front.

X2 but adjust in accordance with the 2012 F150 manual that says the front end should come back about 50%.

Original poster says nothing about actually setting the hitch up properly or how much the front end has come back to original height.

[Mike134]

Can you better define what happens when you're towing?

If I read your post correctly your only issue is when a truck passes you from behind. Is it really a swaying motion behind you that you need to reach for the trailer brake controller and apply the trailer brakes? Or is it that suck/push that the semi pulls you towards his lane as he approaches?

Cross winds and meeting trucks on a 2 lane highway cause no issues correct?

What is your typical towing speed?

[Tex94]

Originally Posted by ttf5003

Thanks for the responses so far and nice rig Tex94.


I should have mentioned I've been looking at the Propride too. It seems like that will definitely solve the problem but if the heavier duty equalizer would too I'd rather stick with that for simplicity. But the Propride upgrade is a known fix and the Equalizer upgrade is an unknown in my mind.


This one is nearby for $1600, it looks like it has had a hard life. Any thoughts on the picture Tex94?



Thanks

Thank you!

I understand staying with what you know 100%, you have to do what’s best for you. Many hate these hitches for unknown reasons but I’ve found with proper loading and a small learning curve they are so simple and fast to hitch and unhitch. Plus it’s rock steady behind you in all conditions. If you’re a big boondocker though, it’s not so much an off road setup….least not from my perspective. I won’t pull with anything but a ProPride/Hensley. Apparently I’m a fool for doing it with a half ton according to an earlier post LOL.


I am not sure where you’re located but that definitely looks like a project hitch(rust from a cold/salt climate?). I bought mine for $1100 and it needed grease and some touch up paint. If the hitch head swivels freely(the two main bearings are in good shape) and there’s no cracking anywhere you should be in good shape. The jacks and other parts are relatively inexpensive.




The deals are out there if you scour but if you did buy new…it’s a lifetime warranty and they’re easy to service plus if cared for you’ll get at least 20% back.

[Aussieguy]

Originally Posted by GolfingDave

Original poster says nothing about actually setting the hitch up properly or how much the front end has come back to original height.

I get that impression too
hitches..... between different trucks OR trailer combos need to be re-installed/adjusted . Especially if the new trailer is heavier

knowing the actual numbers... more of a confirmation of the setup
more important is to watch/look what is going on as you hitch up.

front raises a lot?
rear sags (bad shocks/springs or not enough air in tires)


----------------------------------------------------------------------------
suspension wear often goes undetected as you get use to how your truck is behaving as the suspensions gets more and more outta whack

a couple weeks ago had one brother in law sitting in my rear seat another one was following us in his car.... rear seat guy said feels like shocks are bad

The one driving behind.. when we stopped at destination (without them talking to each other) said car my car was all over road ... check your shocks

[Cabinfever97]

I have a Hensley, basically the same as Propride, I would buy the Propride and do whatever maintenance is needed. The way those hitches are made not much to them. Pop the caps off and see if the bearings are rusted would be the only thing I would check. If they are I would still try and buy, just for less money. I have seen many who have changed their own bearings on both Propride and Hensley. Bought my Hensley used in 2014 for $700. If I needed to buy a new one for some reason I would not hesitate. I do keep my hitch completely covered when not camping. I bought a BBQ grille cover that covers the entire hitch, including the jack assemblies, and the power jack on the camper.

[Tex94]

Originally Posted by Cabinfever97

I have a Hensley, basically the same as Propride, I would buy the Propride and do whatever maintenance is needed. The way those hitches are made not much to them. Pop the caps off and see if the bearings are rusted would be the only thing I would check. If they are I would still try and buy, just for less money. I have seen many who have changed their own bearings on both Propride and Hensley. Bought my Hensley used in 2014 for $700. If I needed to buy a new one for some reason I would not hesitate. I do keep my hitch completely covered when not camping. I bought a BBQ grille cover that covers the entire hitch, including the jack assemblies, and the power jack on the camper.

I cover mine too. Totally worth it.

My father in law has a Hensley and the stinger sticks in the head and it’s worsening with age(he does grease it). Do you have that issue? I’ve never had that with my PP and I personally would pick the PP over the Hensley for that.

[Bob K4TAX]

It would appear there are two factors that are involved. Both can be variable depending on the load in the tow vehicle and the placement and load in the trailer. These can change from trip to trip.

I found the measurement method to be superior and easier in results than other methods. The measurement method is exactly that, ground to fender well or fender edge (just use the same point every time) with the tow vehicle loaded, and then with the trailer loaded on the tow vehicle. I place a length of masking tape at the edge of the fender and draw a line on the tape. That is the point I use to measure to the ground. Then write the number on the tape. Couple the trailer and engage the WDH. Then measure again. It is then easy to see if one needs more or less weight based on the change in the rear measurement and the front measurement.

Bob

[Cabinfever97]

Never had a problem unhitching. Just need to be sure the stinger is "floating" in the hitch before pulling away. There are times when I release the latches the stinger separates before pulling away.

[SailorSam20500]

Not sure if any are left. I got an email a couple of days ago from Propride say they had a few factory reconditioned hitches available...

[ttf5003]

Thanks for the replies. When I picked up the new 2509s the tech at the dealer spent a lot of time setting it up. In fact he put it all together, wasn't happy with how the truck was sitting and took it all apart again to flip the shank over. But I don't know what measurements he was taking since I was doing paperwork most of that time. I can verify it's setup correctly next time I have it out but it's stored an hour away from us.



Good questions about what I'm experiencing, it probably isn't actually considered sway. It is only when I get passed by a truck from behind, maybe I'm just not used to it? It feels like it's trying to push the back end of the truck off the road. Sometimes it's just uncomfortable but other times I end up counter steering. I have not had issues when meeting a truck on a two lane highway.



Good call on that Propride I posted, it is in a coastal NJ town.



We don't have any trips planned with the kids going back to school so I have some time to keep an eye out for a good used hitch and check the setup on mine.

[Semperfi24]

Had a similar set up with a previous trailer. We had a Mini Lite 2504S, similar truck combo, similar weight. Etc. We experienced the same. But ours was usually small cars travelling significantly faster than we were, or vehicles with a flat front end (like a city bus or motorhome). Always had to be prepared for when those kinds of vehicles were approaching from behind. When they got up to the left rear corner of the trailer it would push against the side. We had the same hitch set up as well. It may very well be that you just need to get used to that sensation. Sway can be very dangerous, but this doesnt sound dangerous as much as it is just a little unnerving from the drivers seat.

[Mike134]

Originally Posted by ttf5003

Good questions about what I'm experiencing, it probably isn't actually considered sway. It is only when I get passed by a truck from behind, maybe I'm just not used to it? It feels like it's trying to push the back end of the truck off the road. Sometimes it's just uncomfortable but other times I end up counter steering. I have not had issues when meeting a truck on a two lane highway.



.

It's just something to get used too. It always seems worse when I'm driving in a daze and don't notice the semi coming up from behind and get that suck towards him that I need to steer away from.
You can minimize it by moving to the far right of your lane when you see him coming. Seems if you have 4-5 feet between you and him his bow wave has much less effect.