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Old 08-26-2020, 11:55 AM   #41
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Yes I put airbags in my super duty F250 love em.
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Old 08-26-2020, 12:44 PM   #42
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Can you do something like having a temporary ball mount like the one attached. Mount it so it is a riser and not a drop (insert upside down). They also sell riser ball mounts.

Temporarily slide this ball mount in and get it out to the road and then replace with your original ball mount..

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...Tite/2753.html
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:02 PM   #43
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Can you do something like having a temporary ball mount like the one attached. Mount it so it is a riser and not a drop (insert upside down). They also sell riser ball mounts.

Temporarily slide this ball mount in and get it out to the road and then replace with your original ball mount..

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hit...Tite/2753.html
Thanks for the suggestion but I'm trying to do as little extra motion as possible and this would add one more step. If I go the airbag route, I just hookup the TT, air up the bags with no bars on and pull out. Once on the street I attach/adjust the torsion bars and let the air out of the bags.

I am considering cutting about 2" off the end of the shank. Replacing the shank if I needed that extra length at some point (new TV some day) would cost less than the airbags. I'm just a little concerned if that would have an impact on the strength/reliability of the shank...
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Old 08-26-2020, 02:18 PM   #44
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Thanks for the suggestion but I'm trying to do as little extra motion as possible and this would add one more step. If I go the airbag route, I just hookup the TT, air up the bags with no bars on and pull out. Once on the street I attach/adjust the torsion bars and let the air out of the bags.

I am considering cutting about 2" off the end of the shank. Replacing the shank if I needed that extra length at some point (new TV some day) would cost less than the airbags. I'm just a little concerned if that would have an impact on the strength/reliability of the shank...
I hear you on the too many steps. As far as cutting the bars I don’t think it will impact the strength. The bar that extends beyond the bracket they rest in is not doing anything as I can tell.

I had to cut the bars on my 4 way equalizer WDH hitch on my travel trailer. They were too long after I mounted a trailer tongue bicycle rack. Did not miss the extra length at all and had no effect on the set up.

Just be aware those bars are made of super hardened steel. My SIL had it done for me and had to take to several shops before he found one with the tools to cut thru it... Good Luck..
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Old 08-26-2020, 03:07 PM   #45
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just looking at your drive way,, did you ever consider backing your truck back say at a 45 degree angle and then hook up. wouldn't cost a dime to try it once.alittle tougher backing the trailer in . I have to back my trailer in every time on an angle. I spray painted tee marks right where the TT tires need to be when finished camping.
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Old 08-26-2020, 10:11 PM   #46
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Thanks for the suggestion but I'm trying to do as little extra motion as possible and this would add one more step. If I go the airbag route, I just hookup the TT, air up the bags with no bars on and pull out. Once on the street I attach/adjust the torsion bars and let the air out of the bags.

I am considering cutting about 2" off the end of the shank. Replacing the shank if I needed that extra length at some point (new TV some day) would cost less than the airbags. I'm just a little concerned if that would have an impact on the strength/reliability of the shank...
I don't think cutting below the brace would hurt a thing. If in doubt, ask a welder or machinist.
You will need an angle grinder minimum to cut it... unless you know a machinist or someone who works for the railroad that can get it cut for you. I used a cutting torch and then smoothed it out with a grinder.
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Old 08-26-2020, 10:19 PM   #47
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Thanks for the suggestion but I'm trying to do as little extra motion as possible and this would add one more step. If I go the airbag route, I just hookup the TT, air up the bags with no bars on and pull out. Once on the street I attach/adjust the torsion bars and let the air out of the bags.

I am considering cutting about 2" off the end of the shank. Replacing the shank if I needed that extra length at some point (new TV some day) would cost less than the airbags. I'm just a little concerned if that would have an impact on the strength/reliability of the shank...
Not sure what else you use your truck for but if you do go for bags and wireless compressor you will wonder why you didn’t do it sooner. Your choice though. I also have a Blue Ox and those bags sure are handy when having to take trailer to dump site at campground when there isn’t full hookups and not having to put bars on or many other things you may not think about.
Not sure if I would want to cut anything off but that’s just me.
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Old 08-27-2020, 09:34 PM   #48
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I also have a Blue Ox and those bags sure are handy when having to take trailer to dump site at campground when there isn’t full hookups and not having to put bars on or many other things you may not think about.
Never thought about that - thanks for the input!

Regarding getting a machinist to look at it to determine if removing a couple inches would hurt anything - I was a machinist but now retired. I just cut the metal to the drawing, I didn't have to figure out if it was safe! I think I'll ask one of the stress engineers I used to work with for his opinion.
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Old 08-27-2020, 09:43 PM   #49
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Never thought about that - thanks for the input!

Regarding getting a machinist to look at it to determine if removing a couple inches would hurt anything - I was a machinist but now retired. I just cut the metal to the drawing, I didn't have to figure out if it was safe! I think I'll ask one of the stress engineers I used to work with for his opinion.
Engineers!!!!! I’m a heavy duty truck and refrigeration mechanic and sometimes I would like to meet the engineers who designed some of the things I have had and have to repair
I’m not doubting it can be done but remember an engineer designed it
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Old 08-29-2020, 07:42 PM   #50
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Engineers!!!!! I’m a heavy duty truck and refrigeration mechanic and sometimes I would like to meet the engineers who designed some of the things I have had and have to repair
I’m not doubting it can be done but remember an engineer designed it
I spent 40ish years making what Engineers designed and sometimes I was amazed! Honestly, I worked with a lot of Engineers who came down to the shop, asked qustions about how we could make the part and applied that to their design. And then there were the other guys I actually had a conversation with an Engineer one time and he said "if I can draw it, you can make it!" Loved that one
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Old 08-29-2020, 07:54 PM   #51
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You mean like the engineers from GM who designed their cars with engines that require you to unbolt the upper motor mounts, rear motor mount and rotate the engine to get to the rear 3 spark plugs? Those engineers? LOL If only they were the ones who actually had to do the repairs. SMH.
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Old 08-29-2020, 08:50 PM   #52
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Just seems common sense to me that if you cut a little off the overhang it won’t make a bit of difference. I’ve never built something where it was important to have overhand for streets or support. All the stress is between the hitch mounts and the bracket the bar slides back and forth in.

The load is being held up by the brackets the bars rest in. The extra length is to allow for turns. Just don’t cut off so much that the bar will slip out of the bracket.

I cut the bars on my Equalizer 4 way hitch. No problems and noticed no difference in hooking up.
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Old 08-29-2020, 09:03 PM   #53
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Just seems common sense to me that if you cut a little off the overhang it won’t make a bit of difference. I’ve never built something where it was important to have overhand for streets or support. All the stress is between the hitch mounts and the bracket the bar slides back and forth in.

The load is being held up by the brackets the bars rest in. The extra length is to allow for turns. Just don’t cut off so much that the bar will slip out of the bracket.

I cut the bars on my Equalizer 4 way hitch. No problems and noticed no difference in hooking up.
I'm pretty sure they have been talking about cutting off the extra shank below the hitch head so that it won't drag on the ground during the driveway transition.
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Old 08-29-2020, 09:23 PM   #54
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I'm pretty sure they have been talking about cutting off the extra shank below the hitch head so that it won't drag on the ground during the driveway transition.
You’re right, for some reason I thought bars....

I guess I can’t see where cutting off the shank would be a problem either as long as it is past the point where the hitch slides into the receiver. That is where all the forces apply. Extra shank just adds weight. It, I am no structural engineer.
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Old 08-29-2020, 09:49 PM   #55
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I am considering cutting about 2" off the end of the shank. Replacing the shank if I needed that extra length at some point (new TV some day) would cost less than the airbags. I'm just a little concerned if that would have an impact on the strength/reliability of the shank...
I did that as well as air bags. It scraped a little bit going into fuel stations here and there. Got sick of it.....and it was a little embarrassing. So, lopped it off with a band saw. An angle grinder is a tad caveman for me. It also gets really hot. The band saw gnawed its way through in a few minutes.
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Old 08-31-2020, 08:42 PM   #56
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After looking at my hitch I'm not sure I could get all the clearance I need from just cutting the hitch shank. Pink line is where I'd cut it...
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:31 PM   #57
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After looking at my hitch I'm not sure I could get all the clearance I need from just cutting the hitch shank. Pink line is where I'd cut it...
Why wouldn’t you cut it flush with the skeg? That would gain you about another inch. The extra hole is not adding any strength to the setup. Now, I would not cut any of the skeg off. I’m calling it a skeg, not sure what it is called. Maybe shark fin would be better..lol
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Old 08-31-2020, 09:51 PM   #58
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Why wouldn’t you cut it flush with the skeg? That would gain you about another inch.
Skeg works for me! Mostly because if it's shorter than the mark then the actual hitch head will be the low point and I don't want to drag that.
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Old 08-31-2020, 10:43 PM   #59
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Skeg works for me! Mostly because if it's shorter than the mark then the actual hitch head will be the low point and I don't want to drag that.
Good point.. I see what you are saying...
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Old 08-31-2020, 11:58 PM   #60
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Why not turn it over or not enough shank?
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