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Old 02-01-2016, 10:44 AM   #1
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2016 3011DS Walkthrough

Well we finally picked up our new 2016 3011DS on Saturday after and all day event that was pretty much planed for by myself but really wore out my wife. Overall the unit looks in good shape although there is one problem that still needs resolution and a couple other concerns that we are still not sure how to deal with other than to monitor for now.

First let me say that the advice I received from this forum from a previous post prior to doing the walkthrough paid big dividends and certainly helped us avoid having to deal with issues later on, so thank you all.

Preface – One of my concerns about picking up an RV in the winter was how to deal with testing the water systems in potentially sub-freezing temperatures. I originally negotiated a pick up date in the spring but the guy that sold me the unit is no longer with the company and everyone else was in the dark about it. Because they sold a lot of units in the Sept show, the lot was packed and they really wanted me to pick it up to free up some room. As it turns out the local storage lot only had one spot left so I took it just to have a place to park the RV and since I was now paying for that I agreed to pick it up on two conditions. One that they pull it into the garage to do the walk through and second was that they de-winterize the unit so that we could test all the water systems and then re-winterize it before we brought it home.

Walk through – Problems
1) After testing all the water systems I stepped out of the RV to get a drink of water and as I exited the RV I stepped into a large puddle on the garage floor. I called the technician over and pointed it out to him. At this point he apologized saying obviously there was a leak somewhere and for them not catching it earlier. Of course this was exactly the reason I mandated that we do a full test of the unit prior to taking it home. Given the weather and 30 inches of snow that we had earlier in the week, I was certain that a proper inspection by the RV agent was probably not going to happen even after they reassured me several times that they inspect and thoroughly test all units prior to the customer walkthrough. As it turns out one of the water line connections to the kitchen faucet was bad and it could not be repaired. They ended up cutting the faucet line, ripping another one out of a similar unit and then re-installing in mine which fixed the issue.
2) Ice maker – also found that the ice maker was not working. Looks like the water was not even entering the line. Multiple attempts to correct failed at which point I decided to delay any repairs on this as having ice will be low on our priority list for the first few trips and I will be dropping off the unit later anyway for some work in which case they can repair it then.
3) Rear emergency push out exit window – the window had a large gap (about ¼ in) at the bottom of the window between the frame and window. They attempted to correct by sliding the window over to cover the gap but then this introduced a similar gap on the other side at the top of the window. Bottom line, they were about to position the window to barely seal the window on both sides but I am concerned that this will not last long. They indicated that they could not fix this any better because this was a manufacturing issue so this might be something I need to take up with Forest River.

Walk through – Concerns and Questions
1) Door covering outside TV – There is a much larger Gap between the sidewall and door where the lock is relative to where the latches are located. Again, the seal in this area of the door seems to be marginal at best. While this may not be an issue during most rain storms, I am concerned that either on the road on during a windy sideways rain, water will enter the compartment and damage the electronics. It should be noted that this seemed to be the only compartment with this issue. Anyone else have this issue?
2) Levelers – Given the prior recent post about levelers I paid particular attention to this option. Unfortunately the panel does not match any of the other panels that I have seen in this forum nor anything I’ve seen on the manufacturer website. (see attached picture) Also, since the garage floor is relatively level, I really could not get a feel for how the system was working. I have not been able to read the manual yet so I really don’t know what I have (Automatic or Platinum type). So is this a fully automatic 4-point leveling system or not?

For the most part I was able to go through most of the RV with the exception of a checking out the full functionality of the electronics. The unit drove home ok but I can already tell that there will be a need for some suspension modifications to improve ride and driving effort especially since my wife will be a part time driver.

We are really excited to finally have an RV and are looking forward to being able to take in on the road once the weather improves!

RVr
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Old 02-01-2016, 11:36 AM   #2
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First, congrats on the new RV.

Second, that leveler is the good one - the fully automatic leveler and the one I have on my 3051s. Works great.

Second, that gap in the rear exit window - or more appropriately the misalignment of the window in the opening is something I have too. Mine almost fits the weather stripping gasket - but not quite on the right side. There is also a 1" opening in the window frame below the window. I guess to let condensation drain out - but it really lets cold/hot air enter directly to the inside of the RV.

Plus that huge window is single pane and thin as can be. It's a huge cold/hot spot at the back of the RV. Frankly, unless the weather is perfect we keep a piece of that reflective covered bubble-wrap insulation in that back window all the time. It keeps the Sun from baking the bedroom during the day and the cold from freezing the bedroom all night.

The window is supplied by Cleer Vision and I'm looking at replacing the whole thing with a double pane window with an opening emergency exit that has a screen. https://www.cleervision.com/

All of the windows are sabotaging the heating/cooling of the RV. I don't know what it would cost to replace them with dual pane windows. But I plan to check this out.
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:36 PM   #3
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CP

Thanks for the info. Glad to here you like the levelers, they seemed to be easy enough to operate. As for the emergency window, not sure if the 3051 has the same window as in my 3011, but you can see in the attached photo the difference in the window alignment from top to bottom on both sides. My window also seems to have the large opening. I did check out the link you sent for Cleer Vision and I will have to take a look at the ARC series since that also provides egress access. I'm sure I will not be happy with this window in the long run so maybe replacing it will be the best option but I've got a few other changes I need to make beforehand.

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Old 02-01-2016, 01:47 PM   #4
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NewRVer, that is the full 4 point leveling system.


A future reference for anyone reading this post-The leveling system NewRVer is talking about was installed for a short period of time effecting a minimal amount of units and has since been rectified.


Glad to hear you like your new motorhome!
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:48 PM   #5
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Yep we have the same lousy window. It needs:

Dual Panes
Reflective coating
Better fitment
Opening feature with screen

I'm sure Forest River knows all of this - but just figures the units are selling just fine with this lousy window on the back of all the units.

Here's how ours looks 90% of the time - such a shame on such a nice RV:
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:51 PM   #6
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Dual pane windows are heavy, much heavier than single pane windows. If we could offer dual pane windows we would but then you would lose carrying capacity.
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Old 02-01-2016, 01:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joshua Cavitt View Post
Dual pane windows are heavy, much heavier than single pane windows. If we could offer dual pane windows we would but then you would lose carrying capacity.
Thanks for that Joshua. I understand the reasoning now - but unfortunately that doesn't effect the seriousness of the problem on that back window.
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Old 02-01-2016, 02:08 PM   #8
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I'll bring it up in our sales meeting today. We can't put a screen there because it is an emergency exit.
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:09 PM   #9
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Quote:
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I'll bring it up in our sales meeting today. We can't put a screen there because it is an emergency exit.
Josh. I understand why dual pane glass is not used so that is not an issue. I'd rather have less weight myself. However, doing a quick check on the internet I saw a few windows that allowed both egress and also screened openings in the same window that seems to be about the same size as what is installed on mine and CP's. Also, there is another reason that this window no longer works well in the 3011. Since they removed the emergency window from above the headboard there is one less window in the bedroom which I think overall is a good thing. The downside is that emergency window that was above the bed now got moved to the back of the RV and it, has no screened access. So now the only windows meant to open are only the two small windows in the slide which is hardly enough for good airflow. Thankfully there is a maxxair fan in the bedroom which might help with this.
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Old 02-01-2016, 03:15 PM   #10
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CP. Yes it is a shame to cover it up. We do have the room darkening shades on our unit which you may not so that might help with potential heat build up. Also, we don't plan on using it much when the weather is colder, so other than a cool night or two in the mountains we probably wont have an issue that way. Just seems like a waste of what could be a really nice window window.

Knowing what I know now, if there was an option to upgrade this window to something nicer, I probably would have done it.
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Old 02-01-2016, 05:40 PM   #11
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Congradulations on the new 3011DS.

Wife and I have been looking at this floor plan and reading allot about CCC on class Cs.

Can you provide info on CCC for the 3011DS.
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Old 02-01-2016, 07:44 PM   #12
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Joshua, previous to owning my Forester I had an Arctic Fox Travel trailer. In the bedroom there was a swing out egress window like the one in the Forester. However, it had a screen and a control arm at the bottom. The arm folded back along the base of the window and fit into a slot that held the window shut. When you unhooked the control arm you could push the bottom of the window out. The control arm had an indention that held the window in this open position OR it could simply be moved past the indention to allow the window to swing open fully. The screen had a couple of tabs that make it easy to remove and then the window was fully operational as an egress window.

Here's the best photo I could find as an example of this type of window. It shows the control arm folded back in the locked position:
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Old 02-02-2016, 08:25 AM   #13
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Don't kill me, I'm the messenger. ha
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Old 02-02-2016, 10:41 AM   #14
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No, please, never think we're going after you. You're doing great. I was just showing an example of an egress window that has a screen and is useful for both ventilation and exit.

I fully realize that FR is limited by what's available and what works with the rest of the design.
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Old 02-02-2016, 07:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Creativepart View Post
Yep we have the same lousy window. It needs:

Dual Panes
Reflective coating
Better fitment
Opening feature with screen

I'm sure Forest River knows all of this - but just figures the units are selling just fine with this lousy window on the back of all the units.

Here's how ours looks 90% of the time - such a shame on such a nice RV:
Hey Creativepart, we have the same designer! I know, it looks so cheap and we have them cutout for all the windows for winter trips to Yosemite.
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Old 02-03-2016, 08:25 AM   #16
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I'll see what we can do. This is something that we bring up periodically and have been getting the same answers.
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:07 AM   #17
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You can't do a screened rear egress window on a motorhome. It is a code violation.

If we design a window that is meant to be opened and you leave it open and then drive away, a back draft is created and you can bring in exhaust gases.

Trailers, no problem. Those are not designed to ride in during transit. While I can't comment on all the other issues...the whole "why doesn't FR just put a nice screened egress window like my trailer" comment doesn't really apply.
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Old 02-03-2016, 09:37 AM   #18
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Makes perfect sense. I see that problem differently now. Thanks so much for the explanation.

I understand how exhaust gas would enter if a window was left open - and not to argue the point, honest - but the exhaust exits from the side of the RV near the tires not the back of the RV. But I'd guess the code is still written as it is for good reason.

Something needs down to lessen the heat/cold in the bedroom due to that large window. Because it's a sizable problem. Something better looking than my solution, that's for sure.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:08 AM   #19
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Exhaust exits out the side...but when driving, there is a reverse air affect. If you look at a unit driven through dusty roads, the back of the unit gets covered in filth as the air curls around and throws everything on the back side of the unit.
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Old 02-03-2016, 10:14 AM   #20
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This is the best video I could find explaining the vortex Cause I love visual explanations...and cool terms like "low pressure vortex"

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