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Old 10-31-2020, 06:55 AM   #1
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2017 Sunseeker 3050S low point drain

I have read dozens of posts concerning the location of low point drain, but none that tell where the low point drain on my unit is. Below the water pump and water filter compartment there are two plastic tubes one blue and one red. I believe the blue one is the FW tank drain which is drained be opening the valve inside of the compartment. The red one is capped. I assume this is the low point drain. Does this drain both the hot and cold lines or do I need to look for another drain line?
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Old 10-31-2020, 07:44 AM   #2
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I am not familiar with your exact model but typical RVs have 3 drains.
One for the fresh water tank.
One for hot water low point drain
and one for cold water line low point drain.
Hopefully someone with your exact model will give a more definitive answer.
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:03 AM   #3
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I have the same question as the OP. My 2020 has a blue fresh water tank drain and a red low point drain adjacent to the water pump. I have been completely all through and under this Sunseeker and have never seen a blue low point drain. (My red pipe was capped like the OP said, but I have since put a valve on it instead)

The blue fresh water tank drain line tees and also goes to the pump inlet. The only way the coach’s cold water lines could drain through that blue pipe is to gravity flow backwards through the pump, and I don’t think that is possible.

I can see where if the water filter housing is removed, I think it it will drain the cold water lines, but that will dump the water inside the storage compartment, not under the RV.
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:05 AM   #4
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My 2016 3010 has a red and a blue. The blue is fresh water and the capped red is the only other low point drain.
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Old 10-31-2020, 08:10 AM   #5
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So the red is the low point for both hot and cold water lines.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:34 PM   #6
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I have a 2016 Forester and I have 2 low point drains. The red one is the hot water lowpoint drain and that one has a cap on it, which you unscrew to drain the hot water lines when you winterize. The blue one is the cold low point drain, which is the fresh water tank and that has a shut off valve right above it... mine is in the little section in the general water cellar area. In mine it was where the water filter was (no more). Those are the only low point drains I have. Yours is Sunseeker and a year newer than mine...so it may not be the same ..goid luck. .
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:36 PM   #7
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The red capped line is the one and only low point drain. It is designed to be used when the water heater is in bypass mode. When the water heater is in bypass the cold and hot lines are connected and only one low point is needed. The blue line without a cap only drains the fresh water tank and does not drain any interior plumbing.
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Old 10-31-2020, 12:43 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlm17 View Post
The red capped line is the one and only low point drain. It is designed to be used when the water heater is in bypass mode. When the water heater is in bypass the cold and hot lines are connected and only one low point is needed. The blue line without a cap only drains the fresh water tank and does not drain any interior plumbing.
Thank you. That seems to explain it well.
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Old 10-31-2020, 02:35 PM   #9
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That does explain it well and completely answers my question. Thanks
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Old 10-31-2020, 02:38 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlm17 View Post
The red capped line is the one and only low point drain. It is designed to be used when the water heater is in bypass mode. When the water heater is in bypass the cold and hot lines are connected and only one low point is needed. The blue line without a cap only drains the fresh water tank and does not drain any interior plumbing.
This also is how the Forest River Georgetown MH is plumbed. So, not that unusual.
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Old 10-31-2020, 03:21 PM   #11
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Apparently an old design. My Sunseeker is 3 years older than yours. Same arrangement.
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Old 10-31-2020, 03:26 PM   #12
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On my Sunseeker 2430S-CD.......the fresh water tank is located underneath the lower half of the bed box frame which is within the fixed part of the motorhome. The top half of the bed slides over top when the slide is brought in.
Underneath the bottom half of the bed, there is a fresh water drain valve which empties into the ground about Center of the chassis.

I also have red and blue drain tubes hanging out underneath the water heater bypass valves, located directly under the kitchen sink which is immediately to your left as you enter the coach.

This is just how my rig empties.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:24 AM   #13
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After reading your comment, I think I winterized it wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sgtlm17 View Post
The red capped line is the one and only low point drain. It is designed to be used when the water heater is in bypass mode. When the water heater is in bypass the cold and hot lines are connected and only one low point is needed. The blue line without a cap only drains the fresh water tank and does not drain any interior plumbing.
*Please anyone help*..I drained the blue FW tank hose and than the red hose from below (only about 1 or 2 cups came out and it was kinda pink) and than I re-capped the red. It was after this in the prosses that I put the water heater tank in bypass mode. So I winterized it and I'm thinking maybe all the water isn't out of the low drain tubes. Did I do it wrong? It was my first time. Won't there still be water in the tubes? I'm concerned, it went below freezing for several hours now. Thank you.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:31 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Eddy N View Post
I drained the blue FW tank hose and than the red hose from below (only about 1 or 2 cups came out and it was kinda pink) and than I re-capped the red. It was after this in the prosses that I put the water heater tank in bypass mode. So I winterized it and I'm thinking maybe all the water isn't out of the low drain tubes. Did I do it wrong? It was my first time. Won't there still be water in the tubes? I'm concerned, it went below freezing for several hours now.
Whether the water heater was bypassed when you opened the low point drain should not have mattered. It should not make much difference whether water flows through the bypass or through the heater en route to the drain. However, if you were filling the plumbing with antifreeze, and opening each faucet until antifreeze came out, I think you should have also opened the low point drain one more time to be sure antifreeze came out there also.

I found a useful modification was to put a valve on that red low point drain line, as itís easier to use than a cap.
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Old 11-15-2020, 07:36 AM   #15
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Thank you for that quick reply. I did not re-open the red low bottom drain after filling system with antifreeze. Is it to late.? It's freezing outside here in New York and it has been for most of the night. I hope I didn't bust any tubes. If you think when it warms up I should open that valve, am I going to need to put more antifreeze into the system and how would I go about doing that? I really appreciate your help. I just bought the rv 3 days ago.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:01 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Eddy N View Post
Thank you for that quick reply. I did not re-open the red low bottom drain after filling system with antifreeze. Is it to late.? It's freezing outside here in New York and it has been for most of the night. I hope I didn't bust any tubes. If you think when it warms up I should open that valve, am I going to need to put more antifreeze into the system and how would I go about doing that? I really appreciate your help. I just bought the rv 3 days ago.
It couldn’t hurt to reopen that low point drain cap once more, then recap. If there was any water still sitting in that last section of tubing, it would drain out. There would be no reason to add any more antifreeze. Whether the pipes are filled with air or filled with antifreeze, it’s still not water, and thus can’t freeze.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:13 AM   #17
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Thank you so much BehindBars. I believe I was given wrong instructions for Winterizing. I was told to Switch everything back to its original position after filling system with anti freeze. This way when De-wintrizing, everything was ready to go, I just had to add water to rv and flush the system by opening all the faucets, shower and flush toilet. So right now, my water heater by pass valve is back to the closed position, and water supply valves to and from water heater are back open. So I'm thinking if I reopened the water drain again it won't stop flowing out and I will drain the system. Sorry to bother with all this but I really appreciate your help.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:18 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Eddy N View Post
Thank you so much BehindBars. I believe I was given wrong instructions for Winterizing. I was told to Switch everything back to its original position after filling system with anti freeze. This way when De-wintrizing, everything was ready to go, I just had to add water to rv and flush the system by opening all the faucets, shower and flush toilet. So right now, my water heater by pass valve is back to the closed position, and water supply valves to and from water heater are back open. So I'm thinking if I reopened the water drain again it won't stop flowing out and I will drain the system. Sorry to bother with all this but I really appreciate your help.
If all the faucets are closed, all the antifreeze can’t drain out through the low point drain, because there is no easy way for air to replace it. If you open the low point drain now, it would probably only drain a small section of tube up to the next tee. And that is all you’re concerned about because it is probably the only section that may possibly still contain water.

Even if some of your antifreeze drained out, it doesn't matter, because it would be replaced by air. Air is just as good as antifreeze, because air doesn’t freeze and burst pipes either.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:34 AM   #19
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Thanks again BehindBars. I feel much better now. I will do that later. One last question. Was I given the wrong winterizing instructions? By having the in-and-out valves back open for the hot water tank and the bypass valve closed, (ready for use once de-winterized) isn't some antifreeze making its way into the hot water heater tank? Should I also reverse these 3 switches as well? Does it matter? Thank you again.
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Old 11-15-2020, 08:54 AM   #20
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Thanks again BehindBars. I feel much better now. I will do that later. One last question. Was I given the wrong winterizing instructions? By having the in-and-out valves back open for the hot water tank and the bypass valve closed, (ready for use once de-winterized) isn't some antifreeze making its way into the hot water heater tank? Should I also reverse these 3 switches as well? Does it matter? Thank you again.
The process order is to bypass the water heater so you don’t need to use 6 or more gallons of antifreeze to fill it. So with the water heater bypassed, you fill your plumbing with antifreeze. Then you drain the water from the heater tank. At this point the plumbing is protected from freezing. It really doesn’t matter whether you change the bypass valves back to the normal position now or when you dewinterize. There is only air and antifreeze in the system now, and it doesn’t matter where the air or antifreeze is.

There may be some merit to leaving the water heater bypassed up until and during dewinterization. You can then flush the pipes of antifreeze prior to switching the bypass back to normal. Then when the pipes are fully flushed with water, you can put the bypass to normal and purge the heater tank of air. Using this order minimizes the amount of antifreeze that gets into the heater tank, thus reducing to need to cycle a lot of water through the heater tank to remove all traces of antifreeze.
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