2800 QS Mods

[Duckogram]

Next is the removal of the input power wire and 30 amp main breaker.

Now I pull the main out of the back of the power panel.

[Duckogram]

Now I take the opportunity to tighten all the 12v grounds. And straighten the block because thats me 😜.

Back on task - I make a pig tail with a 30A female twistlock plug.
This replaces the input in the power panel.

Then comes adding a male twistlock to the original power cable.

After reinsalling the main breaker I am done with the power box.

As you can see, I can connect the new pigtail to the original input cable and power the unit up. I did that as a test. It passed.

[Duckogram]

Now I make two more pigtails.
One with a female twistlock and one with a male twistlock.

The PMS gets wired now. The female end becomes the input cable. This connects to the original power wire that was removed from the power box and got a male plug installed.

The male plug pigtail becomes the new output from the PMS and connects to the new pigtail that goes to the main breaker.

[Duckogram]

The PMS/Surge Protector box is installed and the plugs are connected.
They only go on one way so it is foolproof.

Finally, the display monitor is installed.

After everything is buttoned up, heat vent reinstalled and panels replaced.
The project is complete.

[Duckogram]

It has been my experience that leaks form at the drain because of floor flexing. Being a large Duck, the flex is probably more pronounced.
Upon inspection of the drain and subfloor I found the subfloor to be a bit “thin” in the support department. So I made some additional supports and shims to prevent a leak, hopefully. The shims are made from 1x4 PVC exterior trim boards cut into squares. Then welded together with PVC cement except for one block and the shim. The block of 4 is glued to the floor. Then the last block and shim are inserted. No floor flex now!

[Tombsy]

Looks pretty nice plus piece of mind knowing all your connections are tight, I had to re-crimp my main positive battery connection the lug slid right off the cable when I was changing batteries.

[Duckogram]

This is the second half of the “save the radiator” project. The main grill screen is a made to fit item from Fia in Canada.
Install is a piece of crumb cake.
Clean the surface, tape it in place, set the “Stick a Studs”, push hard. Done!

[Duckogram]

I added a 120V GFCI protected outlet to the rear compartment. Could come in handy for other uses but the intent is to be able to charge the V6 power head in its wall mount. The charger has not arrived yet.

[charles l]

Hi Duckogram, Could you provide the company ordering details for the grill screen? I have been searching for something attractive, or at least not ugly, to protect the radiator and fill the openings. Do they still provide airflow?

[Tombsy]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

I added a 120V GFCI protected outlet to the rear compartment. Could come in handy for other uses but the intent is to be able to charge the V6 power head in its wall mount. The charger has not arrived yet.

That’s funny [emoji1], I had the outlet and the charger but no vacuum. I bought a new one and use the extra charger in my shop during the winter.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by charles l

Hi Duckogram, Could you provide the company ordering details for the grill screen? I have been searching for something attractive, or at least not ugly, to protect the radiator and fill the openings. Do they still provide airflow?

I got my upper screen from autotrucktoys on ebay for under $30 w/free shipping.
There is another source, bugscreenwarehouse. They have a similar screen using the same 3M stick-a-stud fastening system. The kit also has the lower bumper screen that can be modified by them to fit if you have a license plate mount there. I had one but removed it. They want $80. for the set plus about $15. shiping. Since I had leftover metal screen from my class A grill mod, I opted to create my own lower and buy the Fia upper on ebay.

Having been through swarms of lovebugs and grasshoppers, I can say that I have never noticed any sign of overheating of the Triton V-10. When I stop for the day, I always brush (foxtail) or wash the bodies away. With the stick-a-stud mounting, I imagine it will be easier since it just unsnaps.

[Duckogram]

I made 2 plugs that cover the skylights. An opaque rectangle that slides in above the skylight over the dining table. This one reduces the light by 50% over just the dark accordian shade. It is white on both sides.
The second one is for the shower (pictured below). It also is foam but the bottom side has a thick coating that almost completely blocks the light. I had to seam this one due to the size of the skylight. I plan on correcting the radius cuts for an easier fit as well. I made some mylar tangs to hold it up. It is very secure. The bedroom is dark enough for an old guy nap now.

[Duckogram]

Installed the Camco 42183 universal door bar today.
So much easier to open and close the screen and door.
It is very light but feels sturdy. Tech note: I used 23 3/8
centerline for mounting holes. Fits the “meat” of the frame
perfectly.

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

I made 2 plugs that cover the skylights. An opaque rectangle that slides in above the skylight over the dining table. This one reduces the light by 50% over just the dark accordian shade. It is white on both sides.
The second one is for the shower (pictured below). It also is foam but the bottom side has a thick coating that almost completely blocks the light. I had to seam this one due to the size of the skylight. I plan on correcting the radius cuts for an easier fit as well. I made some mylar tangs to hold it up. It is very secure. The bedroom is dark enough for an old guy nap now.

What did you make these from?

[Duckogram]

Foam boards from Walmart. Find them in the crafts section.

[MendocinoExplorer]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Foam boards from Walmart. Find them in the crafts section.

FYI: They also carry these at Home Depot in the insulation area. They are purple in color.

[AbdRahim]

very cool. looks a lot better than my droopy plastic.

[Duckogram]

My exchange SCT arrived yesterday so this morning it was Slides in, Gear up and load the new custom tune. Not much to see here. The last screen shot shows pre loaded tune selected however I installed the custom tune that 5 star made for me. Bring on the Rockies!

[Duckogram]

Should have done this on every RV I’ve owned.
I replaced all of the OEM CH751 key locks with Ace Key locks.
The new locks are 7 pin, 2 pull and 4 position cam.
I also added snap on rubberized plastic dust covers.
The only lock I did not replace is the shower hose compartment. It has a different type of lock although it is a CH751.
This was a 2 hour project only because I removed and reoriented some thumb locks that were backwards. Now every lock is “righty tighty lefty loosey”. Type A personallity happy.

B4 and After Pics:

[Duckogram]

The last mud dauber defense screen is on the
COLD water heater.

I used some scrap 1/4 in galvanized screen and looped it inside the intake/exhaust port. Cheap and easy.