2800 QS Mods

[Duckogram]

Today I tackled the installation of the Henderson SS450 Supersteer Trac Bar or “PanHard Bar” if you prefer. This is my first Supersteer product. The BlueOx for the E-450 reads not to use it on vehicles with exhaust over the axle or those with air bags. Since I have both, I went elsewhere. BlueOx has an installation video on youtube and it appears to be almost identical.
The kit came with all the hardware and even a protector for the drivers side brake line. Being a senior citizen, this was a hurculean task for me. Hope it gets rid of the tail wag.

[Tombsy]

Nice job, let us know how it rides. Not fun on your back under there especially if there is no one to pass you tools.[emoji3]

[charles l]

You will like the track bar. Helps with towing and has positive effect on driving and cornering. I did mine last year before making my coast to coast trip. Now I need to change my shocks to koni fsd and add the hellwig upgraded sway bars. I also got some grill inserts for the front and the lower opening to protect the radiator from bouncing debris. Then add the extend a stay gas fitting. Next will be to finalize my bbq grill purchase.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by charles l

You will like the track bar. Helps with towing and has positive effect on driving and cornering. I did mine last year before making my coast to coast trip. Now I need to change my shocks to koni fsd and add the hellwig upgraded sway bars. I also got some grill inserts for the front and the lower opening to protect the radiator from bouncing debris. Then add the extend a stay gas fitting. Next will be to finalize my bbq grill purchase.

I hope it works well. My toad is very susceptible to cross winds and passing vehicles because it is so light and boxy. The tail wag was pronounced on our trip home from the dealer. So do you think you need heavier sway bars for driveability or you just going for the Lincoln ride? The Koni’s are my choice for replacement of the OEM’s as well.

[charles l]

I think the sway bars are my just wanting to improve the ride. I doubt that it will degrade the ride. I notice the rv does tend to sway a bit much entering/exiting driveways or dips but overall the stock sway bars are not bad on the highway. I have not installed the hellwig or shocks yet.

[Duckogram]

Been meaning to get to this before but busy busy busy. The cables in the battery compartment were a mess. They were routed over the vent caps making it impossible to water the batteries. Lack of attention to detail in my book. The strap did not prevent movement in the compartment as well. Yesterday, I noticed a large round hole in the backside of the compartment while I was topping off the levelup reservoir. So today I screened in the vent hole, made closed cell foam stabiliziing blocks for both batts and rerouted the cables so as to allow unfettered access to the caps. Now there is little to no battery movement and the 60A circuit protectors will not get smashed.

[AbdRahim]

Good idea to put the screen over that hole. Thanks for the idea. Did you have to get longer battery cables?

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

Good idea to put the screen over that hole. Thanks for the idea. Did you have to get longer battery cables?

New cables not needed. Just flipped them over so they were not over the caps. With the batteries centered and not able to move anymore, there is plenty of room.

[Duckogram]

My DW is a bit dyslexic so I painted the little icons on the interior and exterior lock plates.

[Duckogram]

I had done this to a microwave before but never a “double decker” to accomodate the pan. The top block is the rubbery, much softer foam and goes in last. Rattle-me-not! Only 4 days until the maiden voyage and still have a bunch of minutia to finish up.

[AbdRahim]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

I had done this to a microwave before but never a “double decker” to accomodate the pan. The top block is the rubbery, much softer foam and goes in last. Rattle-me-not! Only 4 days until the maiden voyage and still have a bunch of minutia to finish up.

I remove the tray in the microwave, and wrap it in a towel and put it in a drawer when traveling.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by AbdRahim

I remove the tray in the microwave, and wrap it in a towel and put it in a drawer when traveling.

That would certainly work however my DW stuffed the drawers to the brim. I think she is having trouble with the downsizing concept.

[Tombsy]

Thought that was a bread box lol

[Duckogram]

On our maiden voyage the frost on the coils was very much noticeable after 6 days of operation. I had been researching circulation fans for some time now and found the battery powered models to be lacking and take up precious fridge real estate. I found the RV Cooling Unit Wearhouse Deluxe model fit the need better than anything else. It has a switch, inline fuse, 2 small low amp draw brushless fan motors, a nice looking housing snd protective grills. I wired it through the drain tube and used the supplied piggyback connector on the 12V power supply.
Photo is the finished project with fan running.

[Duckogram]

Need a place to hang swimsuits and things to drip dry. If I take the sun shield off the skylight in the shower, things dry fast.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Duckogram

Now I make two more pigtails.
One with a female twistlock and one with a male twistlock.

The PMS gets wired now. The female end becomes the input cable. This connects to the original power wire that was removed from the power box and got a male plug installed.

The male plug pigtail becomes the new output from the PMS and connects to the new pigtail that goes to the main breaker.

I "think" you have this setup:
Male Plug 1 at pedestal goes to Cord
Other end of Cord goes to Female Receptacle 2 (accepts Male Plug 2)
Male Plug 2 goes to input Pigtail to PMS
PMS output goes to Female Receptacle 3 (accepts Male Plug 3)
Male Plug 3 goes to input Pigtail to Converter

If the PMS ever goes south, you can bypass it by inserting Male Plug 3 (on converter) directly into Female Receptacle 2 (on cord).

When I first read your text ("female end becomes the input", "male plug becomes output") I envisioned male plugs that could become energized while exposed if things were plugged in in the wrong order.

After a while I realized that what you've done is like daisy-chaining a couple of extension cords in sequence which has no unsafe configuration.

Larry

[Duckogram]

It actually goes to the automatic transfer switch but I think you’ve got it. I have been using this method for years without fail.

The pigtails that feed the PMS are the input and output wires.

[Duckogram]

The OEM shower head is anemic so I took advantage of the CW blow out sale and $10 off coupon they sent.

[Duckogram]

The Problem:
The cabinet door under the sink can only open out because of the drawers on the face of the adjoining cabinet. Additionally, the hinges used by FR are only 95* opening.

[Duckogram]

The solution:
Replace the hinges with Blum 170* face mount clip on units.
The only drilling required are pilot holes for the clip base mounts. Two screws in those vs one in the OEM hinge.