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Old 02-01-2018, 10:47 PM   #1
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2800 QS Mods

Starting small.
Leveling bubbles where I can see them from the
Level-Up control panel. I very rarely use
the automatic feature as it raises the coach too
high. I find manual mode to be much easier.
I did level the coach using a carpenters level and
reset the Zero Point on the Level-Up.
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Old 02-01-2018, 10:54 PM   #2
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Locking Gas Cap

Next was also simple. A locking gas cap. This one was
salvaged from my totaled Coachmen Pursuit (F-53 Chassis)
I used a grommet and a push pin to plug the hole where
the teather was anchored. Dont want water or gas in there.
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Old 02-03-2018, 07:45 PM   #3
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Smart TPMS

Started installing my TireMinder system. Fronts are a no
brainer. Duallys dont work on the plastic factory inner extensions
or the 120* outers. Im looking for different valve stem extensions now...
First issue is my wheel liners are hammer on.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
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Old 02-04-2018, 06:26 AM   #4
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I use a claw hammer-very carefully rims of simulator will bend easily- to remove mine and rubber mallet to reinstall These have been recommended in past threads. As for the tire pressure system I use the pass thru TST507 sensors and the original extensions. I would suggest rubber manhole stabilizers for the inner dually for peace of mind
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Old 02-04-2018, 12:09 PM   #5
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I use a small pry bar that is about an 1 1/2 wide and they pop right off and a rubber mallet to put them on. I also have the Tireminder and used Pacific Dualies braided extensions. I managed to fit a couple of the rubber stabilizers in but the others I swivel in behind the wheel covers. Be careful working thru the holes in the wheel covers the back edges of the holes are pretty sharp.
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Old 02-04-2018, 10:56 PM   #6
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Thanks guys but you misread my post. The subject is valve stem extensions that work
with hammer on wheel covers. BTW I use the small pry bar and a rubber mallet.

I removed the 135* extensions on the outers and the 7” plastic extensions on the inners.
I can reach the valve stems through the 4” hand holds on the steel wheel. So for now, my TPMS transmitters are on the short valve stems. Thinking about leaving them that way.
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Old 02-04-2018, 11:05 PM   #7
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Safe

Installed a Sentry Waterproof/Fire Resistant Safe today. Sorry - No pics
of that for obvious reasons.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:08 PM   #8
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I used the original angled metal extensions and added long straight metal extensions with lock tite blue. Then I installed the oval rubber stabilizers to keep them solidly in place. I use the eez tire flow through sensors. There are more expensive options but mine works. I probably spent $30.00 on the parts not counting the sensors. I think I got the metal extensions on Ebay or Amazon.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:13 PM   #9
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Un-Mod

The TV was rattling on the way home so I pulled it off to see why.
Turns out one of the 4 mounting screws on the plate that attaches
to the TV was loose. The correct mounting screws supplied by Furrion
were in the bag attached to the owners manual. So I guess you can say
that I un-modified the factory mod by using the correct screws!
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:14 PM   #10
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Updated my Avatar. Ahhhhh
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:18 PM   #11
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Mirror Removal

Used an allen wrench as a tool to remove the rear view mirror.
Easy Peasy
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:25 PM   #12
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Rear Slide Cover Allignment

The rear slide cover was offset to the ODS so much it did not cover the door side of slide. You can see how much I shifted it to the right by looking at the original hole in the roller mounting arm. I felt this was important as it would be dripping on the slide roof directly over my head.

Note: The mounting arm cap clears the coach rear cap by 1/8”
in its new position.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:30 PM   #13
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Key Hooks

Added some key hooks to the pantry. Good place for the gas cap, hitch and spare ch751 keys.
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:43 PM   #14
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Progressive Industries HWC-30 PMS

Step 1 in this install includes using 30 Amp twist lock plugs rather than a permanent wire connection. I ponied this off of TURBS post in this forum many years ago. The logic is that if the board in the PMS is fried, you can bypass the unit and restore power, albeit unprotected.

My Auto Transfer Switch is located under the small drawer in the powder room.
As of right now, I am planning on mouting the PMS on the surface of the transfer switch box cover. It feels like it is substantial enough to hold the PI box. There does not appear to be enough room under the fridge behind the breaker/converter box. TOBECON
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Old 02-09-2018, 06:54 AM   #15
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Frige Vent Screens

Still going...
This one is the Camco RS-500. They fit the new, smaller Norcold vents without trimming. They still short sheet you on the wire ties though.
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Old 02-09-2018, 12:51 PM   #16
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Lower Grill Bug/Rock Screen

Feeling the need to protect the radiator and cooler(s) from bugs and rocks
I started looking at bug screens. The only one that has a screen for the lower opening in the bumper was bugscreenwarehouse. The use stick a stud snaps for installation. However, at $80 for the screens plus a whopping $15. shipping I kept looking. I found the Fia screen which is made in Canada. It also uses stick a stud mounting. Ratings of fit and quality were very good. The downside is that Fia (I called them) does not make a screen for the lower opening. So for economical reasons, I made one for the lower out of scraps of stuff I had in the shed. 1/4 metal mesh, push plugs and a piece of plastic wire protection tube.
The plastic is on the top and sits in a slot under the top of the bumper. The push pins utilize existing holes. I made the screen a little taller so it curves out to create some tension.

I ordered the Fia from autotrucktoys for under $30 and free shipping...
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Old 02-10-2018, 11:08 AM   #17
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Nice work
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Old 02-10-2018, 01:04 PM   #18
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TPMS

Finished the TireMinder install. Ended up not using ant extension or contraptions. Just the cap transmiters on the valve stems.
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Old 02-10-2018, 01:07 PM   #19
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No Mud Daubers

One more set of screens for the furnace. Camco SUR200s
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Old 02-15-2018, 07:06 PM   #20
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Progressive Ind. PMS HW30C Install Part 1

This upgrade is a must for me. Saved my electronics at least twice.
I begin by disconnecting all power and removing the cover of the power distribution box.

Next is to remove the access panel and a heat duct so I can get at the wires from the rear of the power box.
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