30 amps is not enough

[DSeawel]

With my 2017 Sunseeker 3170DS, I have trouble running the air conditioner and microwave at the same time. If I have them both going for more than 3 or 4 minutes, the breaker on the campsite pedastal trips.
I had this occur on numerous different campsites, and has happened since the RV was new.
I guess the manufacturer simply did not plan this so well.
What ideas might you have to solve this?

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by DSeawel

With my 2017 Sunseeker 3170DS, I have trouble running the air conditioner and microwave at the same time. If I have them both going for more than 3 or 4 minutes, the breaker on the campsite pedastal trips.
I had this occur on numerous different campsites, and has happened since the RV was new.
I guess the manufacturer simply did not plan this so well.
What ideas might you have to solve this?

I sometimes have this same problem with my Flagstaff in the hot months.


Do you have other items also running, as the total amps is added up for all. The A/C and microwave are just two of the bigger items, but all the other little things also add to the total amps.


Even the 12 volt DC items (like lights, fans, radio, etc) will cause the RV's converter to convert more AC power into DC power, thus using more amps, which adds to the 30 amp total.


RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)


Campground pedestal circuit breakers do get weaker over time, and thus may not be be able to handle the full 30 amps.

[tomkatb]

We prefer 30 amp campsites. However, our 50 amp fifth wheel was set up for It.

Got to learn power management.

The DW often runs the clothes dryer as well as the ac.

You have to study up on your loads and manage.

You cannot run the fridge on electricity, the water heater on electricity, the converter, etc at the same time. It adds up.

[Duckogram]

Campsite breakers are notoriously weak. They get flipped on and off frequently which takes its toll. As for running A/C and microwave simultaneously, you are running at close to maximum wattage. Over time, that creates a situation where
the weak breaker will heat and trip. Its all about power management.
Reduce the load, extend your cook time. Turn the compressor off and run the fan only while nuking. Put the water heater on propane. Use led lights. Monitor your
volts and amps.

They make Power Management Systems that will do all that for you if want.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by DSeawel

With my 2017 Sunseeker 3170DS, I have trouble running the air conditioner and microwave at the same time. If I have them both going for more than 3 or 4 minutes, the breaker on the campsite pedastal trips.
I had this occur on numerous different campsites, and has happened since the RV was new.
I guess the manufacturer simply did not plan this so well.
What ideas might you have to solve this?

Install one of these (or equivalent) on the A/C and microwave circuit. It will shed another load, hopefully you have one. Without that it will drop the A/c in favor of the microwave. Seems that FR has gotten fancy with these and their latest dual A/C systems don't shed the A/C but only the compressor for the A/C. That is better but a little more complicated to install.

[DSeawel]

Good suggestions, guys.
While I am pretty well versed in electricity, I'm not likely to carry an amp meter, and monitor my usage. And I certainly don't expect my wife to do that! Ha!
As I was making the original post, I recalled that I have a 50 to 30 adapter.
So, since I'm on a site that has both, I put that inline off the 50 amp circuit.
Seems like this might be a super simple solution, when I have 50 amp service available.
We'll see how it goes.
I'll also keep that adaptive load device in mind. But if my adapter solution works, I'll probably just start being more picky, to make sure I choose 50amp sites!
Thanks for your input, I appreciate you!

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by DSeawel

Good suggestions, guys.
While I am pretty well versed in electricity, I'm not likely to carry an amp meter, and monitor my usage. And I certainly don't expect my wife to do that! Ha!
As I was making the original post, I recalled that I have a 50 to 30 adapter.
So, since I'm on a site that has both, I put that inline off the 50 amp circuit.
Seems like this might be a super simple solution, when I have 50 amp service available.
We'll see how it goes.
I'll also keep that adaptive load device in mind. But if my adapter solution works, I'll probably just start being more picky, to make sure I choose 50amp sites!
Thanks for your input, I appreciate you!

Didn't notice you have a 50 amp coach. The solution, as you discovered, is to plug into 50 amps and forget it. They don't put load shedders on 50 amp units.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

Didn't notice you have a 50 amp coach. The solution, as you discovered, is to plug into 50 amps and forget it. They don't put load shedders on 50 amp units.

Scott, I don't think the OP has a 50 amp coach. He was talking about using a 50-30 amp adapter where he can plug into the 50 amp outlet at the campground.


A lot of members do this, when the 30 amp outlet breaker is weak. They still have their main 30 amp circuit breaker in the RV to trip in case they go over the 30 amps.

[emm-dee]

The later model Forester/Sunseeker lines only have four AC powered items. Air conditioner, microwave, water heater element and converter. I’ve found that I can leave the converter on and not use one of the three remaining items. Since I rarely use the electric water heater there is no issue.

One other consideration is plugging an espresso or coffee maker or hair dryer. I always use the 50 amp portion of the pedestal because of the previously mentioned wear and tear on the 30 amp side.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by wmtire

Scott, I don't think the OP has a 50 amp coach. He was talking about using a 50-30 amp adapter where he can plug into the 50 amp outlet at the campground.


A lot of members do this, when the 30 amp outlet breaker is weak. They still have their main 30 amp circuit breaker in the RV to trip in case they go over the 30 amps.

On closer read...I guess you might be right. Either way he now has 50 amps from the pedestal rather than 30. Never said he popped the main breaker on his panel. 30 amp systems are pretty old. Old receptacles, old breakers.

[DSeawel]

Right

[emm-dee]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

On closer read...I guess you might be right. Either way he now has 50 amps from the pedestal rather than 30. Never said he popped the main breaker on his panel. 30 amp systems are pretty old. Old receptacles, old breakers.

If you are thinking that way then one has 200 or more amps from the pedestal because that’s what’s feeding the box.

[bclemens]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

Didn't notice you have a 50 amp coach. The solution, as you discovered, is to plug into 50 amps and forget it. They don't put load shedders on 50 amp units.

We put load shedders on our 50Amp. More common than you would think.

[Duckogram]

Originally Posted by emm-dee

If you are thinking that way then one has 200 or more amps from the pedestal because that’s what’s feeding the box.

He would have 50 amps from the panel using the 50-30 dog bone. Does not mean he can draw 50 amps because he is still limited by the 30 Amp breaker in his coach. What that does do is eliminate the weak 30A breaker at the pedestal and transfer the duty to his newer and less abused coach breaker. Ahhhhh
full power available.

[Scrapper]

Your pedestal's 30 Amp breaker could be weak, or the contacts in the outlet could be damaged by people plugging/unplugging without turning off the breaker first. If the pedestal breaker is on when plugging in / unplugging it causes an arc which damages both the plug and outlet contacts. Then, when using a heavy load, such as A/C, micro and WH on AC, the contacts heat up causing more amps to be drawn across the poor connection.

We been running on 30 amp for years. Though we don't use the A/C unless it's really hot and humid. We have ran the A/C, microwave, 14 inch table top fan, tv and 2-way refrigerator all at the same time 2 or 3 times a year. Our fridge is in Auto mode and never uses gas unless the power to the campground goes out which is rare. We never use the AC side of our WH. We have never had a 30A pedestal breaker trip.

[knoddy]

Another way that I used was to utilize the 50 amp circuit (50 to 30 amp adapter) worked for me

[juice5]

Originally Posted by DSeawel

With my 2017 Sunseeker 3170DS, I have trouble running the air conditioner and microwave at the same time. If I have them both going for more than 3 or 4 minutes, the breaker on the campsite pedastal trips.
I had this occur on numerous different campsites, and has happened since the RV was new.
I guess the manufacturer simply did not plan this so well.
What ideas might you have to solve this?

Ive got a 25 Pack 12....and heated with 1500 watt milk house heater instead of noisy furnace which pop'd the breaker when coffee pot turned on in the morning....sooo I mounted a floor outlet next to couch in slideout for the heater and it has a drop cord below ! When in camp I run a short cord to the 20 amp GFI outlet in camp pedestal next to my 30 amp supply ! As a retired electrician I also run constant volt/amp checks on power to eliminate problems.

[formerFR]

the original post alluded to the 'campsite pedestal' breaker tripping, which seems like an indication of a weak campground outlet breaker, and nothing to do with the RV itself, since it's own main breaker or any individual breakers have ]NOT[tripped.

We've found many cases where the campground breaker is simply weak after so much usage, having been flipped on and off many, many more times than a breaker would normally expect to be, and the outlet gets much more usage than any other type of outlet. I makes sense that they can easily be the weak link in the scenario.

If you have an adapter and can make use of a 50amp outlet, then do so, but otherwise, ask the campground management to change out the 30amp breaker since you know that it is not holding up to the proper '30amp maximum' that it should. An air conditioner and a microwave is not NEAR enough to use close to 30amps of power.

[Glampen]

Progressive Industries remote monitor give us a continual indication of AC amps and voltage which is helpful for both generator and pedestal power usage.

[HONDAMAN174]

Originally Posted by Glampen

Progressive Industries remote monitor give us a continual indication of AC amps and voltage which is helpful for both generator and pedestal power usage.

“If” it’s accurate. Mine is off by 30% and I adjust the readings in my head