3011 DS 2018 Forester cabinet wrap

[Hailey]

I'm doing a project to convert the over cab area to storage cabinets. I've got the frame work done and will be starting to build the face and 6 cabinet doors soon.
Does anyone know the Forest River supplier for the Vinyl wood grain wrap used on the stock cabinets?
I've checked several of the bigger makers of wood grain wrap and none of them have the "Rustic Cherry" color that i have in my unit.
Anyone know a # at Forest River i can call for that info?
Thanks

[RedLdr1]

Joshua Cavitt is the Forester / Sunseeker FR representative who monitors this forum. His work number is 574-343-5178.

[newRVer]

Originally Posted by Hailey

I'm doing a project to convert the over cab area to storage cabinets. I've got the frame work done and will be starting to build the face and 6 cabinet doors soon.
Does anyone know the Forest River supplier for the Vinyl wood grain wrap used on the stock cabinets?
I've checked several of the bigger makers of wood grain wrap and none of them have the "Rustic Cherry" color that i have in my unit.
Anyone know a # at Forest River i can call for that info?
Thanks

Given the issues that people have had with a number of units leaking at the junction of the cab and roof, is it really a good idea to use the bunk for storage?

I.e. while we use ours as a bunk, the weight that is up there is only at night and does not put a strain on that junction while driving which would be more of a concern for me.

I guess if you are only going to store lighter articles up there it may not be an issue.

[Hailey]

Considering the 75 lbs i removed from the area (Mattress and storage box) and the warning label that says "No More Than 440 Pounds in Compartment area" and the fact that most of my storage items will be paper towels, T.P., unneeded blankets and pillows, meds, out of season clothes, etc. I really don't think i will be stressing anything. I doubt that the cabinets and doors and the above items will even be half the recommended max weight.
Don't forget that the coach is built from welded aluminum box beams. But thanks for your concerns.

[newRVer]

Originally Posted by Hailey

Considering the 75 lbs i removed from the area (Mattress and storage box) and the warning label that says "No More Than 440 Pounds in Compartment area" and the fact that most of my storage items will be paper towels, T.P., unneeded blankets and pillows, meds, out of season clothes, etc. I really don't think i will be stressing anything. I doubt that the cabinets and doors and the above items will even be half the recommended max weight.
Don't forget that the coach is built from welded aluminum box beams. But thanks for your concerns.

Np. I've interpreted that Maximum to be accurate for a standing RV, not while in motion and certainly putting light items up there would lessen the risk of potential problems. Maybe someone from FR can comment on the concept of have a couple hundred pounds of weight up there and the effects over time while driving? Maybe my current assumptions are incorrect.....

[RedLdr1]

Before the "Trekker" smaller cap was offered we had a MBS with the optional entertainment center, and storage compartments, in the regular cap instead of a bed. We didn't have any issues with it except FR didn't give you as much storage space as a home built design might offer...

[Denny B]

If you are making your own face frame and doors, I suggest that, rather than covering your work with peel and stick vynal, you make them from cherry wood, then stain and varnish them to match.
My 2016 2304KS has, alledgedly, cherry cabinets. Cherry doors, but every cabinet is vynal prticleboard I've built and added shelves, a drawer, a shoe rack, an upgraded medicine cabinet. My med cab= 221/2" X 30" X 6"D 1/2" Baltic birch ply body, cherry face frame and door. Weighs 1/3 less than origional.
Anyway I brought a sample (a small cabinet door from the trailer) and a piece of the cherry I was using, into my local Rockler Woodworking and Hardware and they were able to match the stain and varnish with General brand Finishes. IMHO, You will be much happier with reel, durable, repairable, real wood, than vynal.

[Hailey]

Thank you Denny B, good thoughts. I started this project worried that I wouldn't be able to match the stain and smooth finish. It didn't take me long to realize that smooth finish was vinyl. i found many instruction videos on line about working with it and figured it was not too hard to work with. I also found my Kitchen counter is a type of Corian but my dining table and bath countertop is also a type of self stick vinyl.
I've never used Rockler for stain, i have one near me. Good Tip
I also won't have wood door inserts, instead l plan to use a semi opaque plastic insert, sort of like the shower door insert. I figure this won't make the forward area look like a dark cave.
I have been doing this in my spare time while we are in Florida for three months, my only power tool is my Dewalt drill. I use a short hand saw for all the cutting and i forgot that keeping a straight rip is very easy with the hand saw.

[Denny B]

You might want to enquire, at your local Rockler, if there is any place locally that allows you access to a wood shop? As a retired carpenter, I have all the tools I need in my garage. But I still use the well equipped wood shop at the Alington Heights Illinois senior center. Especially in the winter when my unheated garage is too cold. They charge $10 a visit or $5 if I buy a pass. I learned of this from my local Rockler. Also, if such a shop is unavailable to you, you may find someone at, or through, your local Rockler store who can help you out?
I would also suggest you use a Kreg jig to join your face fraim and your doors.
You might find a Kreg jig class available at Rockler? They would be happy to show you how pocket hole joinery works. And you don't have to buy the expensive model, just the little 2 hole and A Kreg clamp.
Good luck

[Hailey]

Thanks again Denny B.
Again you had some good ideas.
I didn't mean to come across as a poor and strapped want-a-be carpenter with my tale about only one power tool. I am on our annual three month vacation in Florida that is also our shake down cruise in our 2018 3011DS Forester that we took possession of in December. I tend to not travel with tools and things that "I might need". Even so I've worked thru a 30 item list of "fixes" around the new camper on this trip (mostly storage enhancements and things like LED lighting over the main slide out).
I have a pretty complete home shop with table saw, miter saw, drill press, bench sander, etc. I found it almost fun to use the hand tools i packed for the trip and hardly use when home. I also moved to a new city (Richmond Va. from Myrtle Beach. SC) in December so i don't know much about the area and what's available woodworking wise.
I have the Kreg tool on my list of must haves. I have never gotten into cabinet making so i never felt i needed one till now.
Thanks

[youroo]

Hailey,the "Kreg Jig Kit" is Very handy for Lots of projects! Our "Free Standing Chairs and Bar Stools" that came in the RV were assembled with VERY Short pocket screws and Failed with Normal use! Rather than take 4 chairs and 2 stools back to Dealer for "Replacement/Return/Repair/for who knows how long a period of Time?? I just used my Kreg Kit and Bored the Holes to proper depth and used the proper length screws with "Wood Glue" also! PS we also have "Cherry Wood"??? in our unit! I have NEVER seen Cherry wood with the Grain this has and after you cut or sand the "Cherry Stain Wood" it isn't even close to Real Cherry,Color or Grain! Youroo!!