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Old 06-12-2016, 02:28 PM   #21
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Here's a link to a RV amp draw table that will give you an idea how much electrical power you are using.



RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)

Thanks for the info! Really surprised Forester builds these thing with A 12 cubic foot fridge and a 15k Btu AC unit and only use a 30 amp supply. No way you can run more than 2 items at a time without exceeding the 30 amps from the post. They cheaped out on this point of the build. I'm going to assume a lot of people discover this issue after the purchase. I never had an issue with 13.5k Btu ac, water heater and smaller fridge in my travel trail so I never really thought about the extra current draw on the larger items. Time to trade it in! 😄
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Old 06-12-2016, 09:15 PM   #22
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Ha! Yes it is frustrating at times but not reason to trade it in. We have learned to live with the issue by managing what we have on. My wife will ask, "Can I run the microwave?" I will then check what else is drawing current. Normally turning off the electric to the water heater will do it.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:06 PM   #23
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The odd thing is.... We have the same unit and run the exact same appliances and out of 3-months of everyday use it happened only once and that was when we ran a high wattage toaster oven too.

Heck we use the toaster oven all the time while camping. We don't give it a second thought and just don't see this issue.

Either I'm super lucky or you have some other problem that you are not aware of.
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:33 AM   #24
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The odd thing is.... We have the same unit and run the exact same appliances and out of 3-months of everyday use it happened only once and that was when we ran a high wattage toaster oven too.

Heck we use the toaster oven all the time while camping. We don't give it a second thought and just don't see this issue.

Either I'm super lucky or you have some other problem that you are not aware of.

Do you have the double door fridge and the 15k Btu ac with heat pump?
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Old 06-13-2016, 06:41 AM   #25
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Since I now have a 50 amp unit, I don't see these problems, but using a 50 to 30 amp dog bone is an excellent idea. Those old 30 amp breakers on the pedestals are probably 75 percent of the problem.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:28 AM   #26
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The odd thing is.... We have the same unit and run the exact same appliances and out of 3-months of everyday use it happened only once and that was when we ran a high wattage toaster oven too.

Heck we use the toaster oven all the time while camping. We don't give it a second thought and just don't see this issue.

Either I'm super lucky or you have some other problem that you are not aware of.
You are super lucky as you said, the problem that comes in is that if something decides to start at the same time. a 30 amp breaker will hold to 34 amps for a short period only. The OP's 15,500 Btu A/C will pull an excess of 26 amps on start up alone. then drops out to the run amps. What might help is a Start cap. wired in so he jumps out of the start wind in a nano sec.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:43 AM   #27
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3051 power draw of appliances?

At least on my Forrester it seems to be the hot water heater electric elements that draw more than I would think they do. if we try and run the AC and the electric hot water heater you can't use microwave or it will trip the breaker - I have found that if we just use the hot water heater on propane the breaker never trips so I am not entirely sure if the hot water heater electric elements just draw a lot of power or what. Maybe that is why they have the electric hot water heater switch outside behind the door - that way they could advertise it as a feature but didn't have to worry about people actually using it because it would overload the system lol
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:56 AM   #28
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At least on my Forrester it seems to be the hot water heater electric elements that draw more than I would think they do. if we try and run the AC and the electric hot water heater you can't use microwave or it will trip the breaker - I have found that if we just use the hot water heater on propane the breaker never trips so I am not entirely sure if the hot water heater electric elements just draw a lot of power or what. Maybe that is why they have the electric hot water heater switch outside behind the door - that way they could advertise it as a feature but didn't have to worry about people actually using it because it would overload the system lol
The Suburban water heater has a 1440 watt electric heating element, which is 12 amps....per the FAQ located here:

Amps = watts/voltage
12 amps= 1440 watts/120 volts

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ore-36197.html

EDIT 2:

Around the 2002 model year and later, the Suburban water heater came stock with a 1440 watt electric heating element. What this means is it will take 12 amps to power it with 120 volts, when the element is on and heating the water. You may need to keep this in mind when hooked up to 30 amp power supplies, as it may cause breaker(s) to trip if you exceed the maximum amount of amps on a circuit. You may need to turn the electric heating element off... if using other high amp 120 volt appliances at the same time, like microwave, air-conditioning, coffee pots, hair-dryer, etc.....as you would only have 18 amps available to power these other things. (30 amps total minus 12 amps for the heating element = 18 amps available)

In other words 40% of your available power is going to the electric heating element when using 30 amp RV's/power supplies.

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Old 06-13-2016, 09:57 AM   #29
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My electric water heater switch is inside on the main panel. Nothing outside. 2015 3051s
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:03 AM   #30
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My electric water heater switch is inside on the main panel. Nothing outside. 2015 3051s
Do you know if you have an Atwood water heater or the Suburban brand?

Easy way to tell, is the outside access panel to it. If the latch to it is metal, then it's an Atwood...... if it's white plastic, it's a Suburban.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:04 AM   #31
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Atwood, no anode rod to mess with either!
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:04 AM   #32
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Yes KJ, the 4-door fridge and 15K Heat Pump. We run the A/C and Propane water heater at the same time usually (always). Perhaps this keeps the electric water element from coming on very much. But as I said - no problems with blown pedestal breakers except that one time.

I'm not sure what these travel trailer guys are talking about. The don't realize they are in a motorhome specific forum.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:11 AM   #33
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Atwood, no anode rod to mess with either!
Thanks, according to Amazon, the heating element to it may be 1500 watts, which at 120 volts would be 12.5 amps.

https://www.amazon.com/Atwood-92249-.../dp/B009UPLBLI

On my 30 amp camper, I also cannot run the electric heating element, air, and microwave at same time.

Honestly, in the summertime when it's hot anyway, I only run the water heater on propane. It doesn't take much to heat it, especially since it's hot outside anyway...and I need A/C more than anything.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:13 AM   #34
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If you run the propane to heat the water there is no reason the water heater will be using electric unless you have it set to use both at the same time. I'm just going to make the adjustment to use propane to heat the water until I no longer need the air in the fall. Still don't know why Forester puts all these bigger appliances in a rig and don't upgrade the source power to 50 to compensate for the extra load. Anybody ever converted to 50amp and how hard would it be to do it after market?
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:20 AM   #35
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If you run the propane to heat the water there is no reason the water heater will be using electric unless you have it set to use both at the same time. I'm just going to make the adjustment to use propane to heat the water until I no longer need the air in the fall. Still don't know why Forester puts all these bigger appliances in a rig and don't upgrade the source power to 50 to compensate for the extra load. Anybody ever converted to 50amp and how hard would it be to do it after market?
We have had a few members do it, and you may can do a search on it. The hardest part I would imagine is running the heavier gauge wiring from the point where it enters the RV to your electrical distribution panel. You may want visualize that and see how hard it would be to access in your decision to go further into it.
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Old 06-13-2016, 10:22 AM   #36
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We have had a few members do it, and you may can do a search on it. The hardest part I would imagine is running the heavier gauge wiring from the point where it enters the RV to your electrical distribution panel. You may want visualize that and see how hard it would be to access in your decision to go further into it.

I would have a dealer do it. I'm guessing a new converter would be required as well? Screw it! Live with it the way it is! 😄
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:53 PM   #37
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Just as an FYI - I switched on the hot water heater electric elements and checked the readout on the progressive surge protector - with nothing else on it draws 11 amps
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Old 06-14-2016, 09:13 PM   #38
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Just as an FYI - I switched on the hot water heater electric elements and checked the readout on the progressive surge protector - with nothing else on it draws 11 amps

Thanks, can you do the double door fridge too? Which surge protector has the display? Perhaps I need to look into one of these?
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:25 AM   #39
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3051 power draw of appliances?

I can test the fridge but I only have the two door smaller fridge not the four-door big one I wish I did - The progressive industries surge protectors all have the readout for the voltage and amperage and frequency as far as I know - I have the hard wired unit ems-lchw30 - it is for a 30 amp system and it has the display on the unit they do sell a unit with a remote display but it cost almost $100 more - they are very good to have because it protects you from any kind of power issues at the campground hook up or anywhere really and it also gives you a readout for what is coming in so it is good to have for multiple reasons - FYI though it's says it does not work with inverter generators or inverters if you are using one of those
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Old 06-15-2016, 10:46 AM   #40
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Yes KJ, the 4-door fridge and 15K Heat Pump. We run the A/C and Propane water heater at the same time usually (always). Perhaps this keeps the electric water element from coming on very much. But as I said - no problems with blown pedestal breakers except that one time.

I'm not sure what these travel trailer guys are talking about. The don't realize they are in a motorhome specific forum.
I think that the OP's question was on why he keeps blowing a breaker. I don't understand your point? A travel trailer and 5er, have the same appliances and some have the same 30 amp. What makes a M/H any different. I have a 5er but have the same problem that is why I gave him the amp draws of 110 volt appliances. It's interesting to me as I read the different forums. NOW if it was a question on towing a toad or sway control or how to monitor a inside dully, I would have just read it for knowledge, But being his question was 30 amp and breakers it has nothing to do with a specific problem of a M/H in general. Just trying to give the OP some help. Now what is wrong with that? Don't need a M/H to try and help another member out with his question....Have a great day... PS: Please read post #'s 3-10-13-16-18, just trying to help the OP out.
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