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Old 06-11-2016, 07:37 PM   #1
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3051 power draw of appliances?

Anybody know what the amp draw is of the a/c unit, the dual fridge, the microwave and the water heater? Can't seem to run more than 2 at any given time without tripping the 30 amp at the pedestal. Is this normal or perhaps I have an issue with one of them, particularly the water heater. I know the a/c and microwave at the same will kill the breaker but a/c, fridge and hot water heater pops it every time.
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Old 06-12-2016, 12:22 AM   #2
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Not normal. We run all that no problem. We've only popped the pedestal breaker once in 90 plus days of camping. And that was running everything plus a toaster oven at the same time. Sounds like your campsite has a problem.
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Old 06-12-2016, 02:35 AM   #3
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If your A/C , Refer and H/W heater came on and ran at the sametime you are well over 30amps. Run your H/W heater on propane and that should end your problem. I'm surprised that a Forester came with 30 amp and not 50 amp? I know nothing about M/H but do about amp draw...
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:57 AM   #4
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Not normal. We run all that no problem. We've only popped the pedestal breaker once in 90 plus days of camping. And that was running everything plus a toaster oven at the same time. Sounds like your campsite has a problem.

2 different parks, same problem.
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Old 06-12-2016, 05:59 AM   #5
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3051 power draw of appliances?

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Originally Posted by Witch Doctor View Post
If your A/C , Refer and H/W heater came on and ran at the sametime you are well over 30amps. Run your H/W heater on propane and that should end your problem. I'm surprised that a Forester came with 30 amp and not 50 amp? I know nothing about M/H but do about amp draw...

Yeah, that's probably the fix. In my old keystone trailer I could run all 3 but the a/c unit and fridge were smaller.
Next one will be 50 amp! 😄
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:02 AM   #6
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I have the same set up with the 4 door refrigerator. With no AC or water heater on we usually draw about 8 amps with just the fridge, converter and a couple of lap tops plugged in and sometimes a heating pad.

When camping, a lot depends on the voltage. If you drop down around 117 volts the amperage seems to be higher. I can have the AC on, the fridge and water heater on elec but the amps will sometimes bounce between 30-31 and have seen 32 with no breaker trip. When I see this I just switch the water heater to propane.

I would imagine if I was not fully aware of the amp draw with my EMS I would just carry on until a breaker tripped. It is just something you have to live with on a 30 amp system. The one thing I miss about my TT was the 50 amps as there was never an issue.
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Old 06-12-2016, 06:04 AM   #7
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Not sure about your fridge, my single door pulls 3-5 amps, A/C 15-16 amps at load. Microwave 12-15 amps depending on model. Then don't forget your converter will pull amps if you have lights and such on. Water heater is another 12-13 amps. We usually run our water heater on gas to avoid popping the breaker. We heat up a tank then switch it off until we need to use it.

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Old 06-12-2016, 06:41 AM   #8
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i chased this down a while ago when someone asked what their "AESS" was. Turns out that Intellitec has an automatic module https://www.amazon.com/Intellitec-00...=1&*entries*=0 that manages an issue like this. In fact, there is an electrical code requirement that you cannot install more than 5 breakers on a 30 amp panel if there are two or more thermostatically controlled loads (A/C, H/W, probably reefer as well) without one. This unit will automatically shed a load (your electric hot water heater) when something else (microwave?) cycles up and shares the same 20 amp breaker. If you have more that 5 breakers and your unit was made after 2012, you should already have one of these!

Spec sheet here http://www.intellitec.com/assets/pdf...-00714-000.pdf
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:05 AM   #9
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3051 power draw of appliances?

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Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein View Post
i chased this down a while ago when someone asked what their "AESS" was. Turns out that Intellitec has an automatic module that manages an issue like this. In fact, there is an electrical code requirement that you cannot install more than 5 breakers on a 30 amp panel if there are two or more thermostatically controlled loads (A/C, H/W, probably reefer as well) without one. This unit will automatically shed a load (your electric hot water heater) when something else (microwave?) cycles up and shares the same 20 amp breaker. If you have more that 5 breakers and your unit was made after 2012, you should already have one.

Not sure about this. This RV and my last trailer, both built before 2012 have always popped a breaker if I have the a/c and fridge on and try to run the microwave. Your info would assume that the a/c or fridge would shut down while I was using the microwave then come back on when I was done cooking. I doubt the RV builders are installing these and have found a way to wire the rigs and still stay in code without one.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:15 AM   #10
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I have a 12O volt appliance amp draw saved somewhere if I find it our post it for you so you know what each pulls.
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File Type: docx 120 Volt System (1).docx (48.4 KB, 72 views)
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:20 AM   #11
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I have a 12O volt appliance amp draw saved somewhere if I find it our post it for you so you know what each pulls.

Are these for the 3051 specific appliances or a household general list?
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:31 AM   #12
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Here is a thread about a 2015 Rockwood 8289WS that came with an AESS. It is where I first learned about what they are and how they work.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:31 AM   #13
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Are these for the 3051 specific appliances or a household general list?
They are any RV generally speaking, I have an amp probe and measured amp draw. Your safe with using them numbers. Those numbers (amps) are under full load FLA. Like the A/C can pull about 15 amps on a 70 degree day not fully loaded like at 90 degrees. I still do not know why they would sell a motor home with a 30 amp service only, Not much more money for them to make it 50 in production. Forgot where I got this list but sure it came from this forum years ago. But I did check some of them as stated. Good place to start.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:38 AM   #14
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We ran into a similar problem with our 30 amp rig at a State Park and it was the blow dryer that kept tripping the pole with the AC running. I had read somewhere that there are a lot of old old weak 30amp breakers in parks and the article recommended a 30amp / 50amp dog bone. I bought one and had never used it, but since this pole did have a 50amp available I moved to it. Still running through our Progressive EMS and the blow dryer +AC worked fine after that. Results may vary, but this was our experience.
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Old 06-12-2016, 07:53 AM   #15
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We ran into a similar problem with our 30 amp rig at a State Park and it was the blow dryer that kept tripping the pole with the AC running. I had read somewhere that there are a lot of old old weak 30amp breakers in parks and the article recommended a 30amp / 50amp dog bone. I bought one and had never used it, but since this pole did have a 50amp available I moved to it. Still running through our Progressive EMS and the blow dryer +AC worked fine after that. Results may vary, but this was our experience.

Tricky! I may have to try this!
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Old 06-12-2016, 08:02 AM   #16
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Tricky! I may have to try this!
You still have to live by your 30 amp breaker inside, but by plugging into a less used 50 amp you save what is called nuisance tripping from a weak 30 amp breaker..Which has probably been used and switch off and on 50 to 75% more at a CG.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:46 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by wahoonc View Post
Not sure about your fridge, my single door pulls 3-5 amps, A/C 15-16 amps at load. Microwave 12-15 amps depending on model. Then don't forget your converter will pull amps if you have lights and such on. Water heater is another 12-13 amps. We usually run our water heater on gas to avoid popping the breaker. We heat up a tank then switch it off until we need to use it.

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Old 06-12-2016, 11:50 AM   #18
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You still have to live by your 30 amp breaker inside, but by plugging into a less used 50 amp you save what is called nuisance tripping from a weak 30 amp breaker..Which has probably been used and switch off and on 50 to 75% more at a CG.

Sounds good.
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Old 06-12-2016, 11:51 AM   #19
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X2 water heater hot then off till needed, will stay hot for hours

Yep, that's how we do it.
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Old 06-12-2016, 02:21 PM   #20
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Here's a link to a RV amp draw table that will give you an idea how much electrical power you are using.

RV Converters and Amp Draw - RV Information (RV Maintenance)
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