Adding a 2nd AC unit to a 3010

raoulwv · 08-07-2019, 03:31 PM

I have a 3010DS with a Dometic Brisk II 15k BTU AC unit. It is not doing the job in the Florida summer heat. I have cleaned the unit and tested current draw. There is approx. a 20 degree temp. drop between intake air and exhaust air. The AC appears to be functioning like it should, but it still won't cool the RV any lower than the low to mid 80s.

1st question. Is anyone experiencing a similar issue with their AC?

I am thinking of installing a 2nd AC unit in the bedroom. I realize I will have to run separate power.

2nd and 3rd questions. Has anyone ever done this and if so, how did it work for you?

GL1800Rider · 08-07-2019, 03:54 PM

20 degree difference is good. When I am parked in the sun and it get up to 95 the best i can get is 82 degrees inside. I have also done all the mods with insulated cushions, reflectex, etc. I looked into installing a 2nd air and have been told by somebody on another forum that the roof is not designed for the weight. Also, in the 3010/3011 it would be difficult to get the wiring run over to the wall.

I am using a Frigidaire portable AC when the need arises and vent it out the drives window and plug in to the pedestal with a #12 extension cord. Seems to lower the temperature an additional 5 degrees.

Not many are aware of this but you can now order a new Sunseeker or Forester with 2 AC units. The coach is still 30 amps but they use a load manager to shed other appliances as needed.

raoulwv · 08-07-2019, 04:43 PM

Do you know if the info on the roof load came from Forest River? I not sure why the roof wouldn't support an 80lb. AC unit. My 200 lbs. walks up there all the time. There is a 14" by 14" framed opening where the roof vent is now.

I would run the wiring across the ceiling through wire moulding and then down through the wardrobe to the rear storage area.

Just curious. Where do set your portable AC unit when in use?

Dcbenny · 08-07-2019, 06:09 PM

FWIW we have been traveling thru Texas and the temp has been 100* everyday we have put reflectix on every window including the door, windshield and side cab windows keep the shades down and put curtain up between cab and house. Our temps have been staying around 77* most of the day at the peek it gets to 80* inside, we use a small fan to keep air moving. Around 7pm the AC will actually cycle on and off. When we travel from one CG to another we run generator with AC on dump as not to lose the coolness.

**DCfuture82** · 08-07-2019, 06:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raoulwv

I have a 3010DS with a Dometic Brisk II 15k BTU AC unit. It is not doing the job in the Florida summer heat. I have cleaned the unit and tested current draw. There is approx. a 20 degree temp. drop between intake air and exhaust air. The AC appears to be functioning like it should, but it still won't cool the RV any lower than the low to mid 80s.

1st question. Is anyone experiencing a similar issue with their AC?

I am thinking of installing a 2nd AC unit in the bedroom. I realize I will have to run separate power.

2nd and 3rd questions. Has anyone ever done this and if so, how did it work for you?

Hey! Its David. I am the electrical engineer at Forest River plant 34 - where we manufacture the class C motorhomes. I just did a dual A/C unit with high efficiency A/C units - and a shed system. It rocks, and gets crazy cold!
For more info email me at dcardimen@forestriverinc.com

GL1800Rider · 08-08-2019, 05:49 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raoulwv

Do you know if the info on the roof load came from Forest River? I not sure why the roof wouldn't support an 80lb. AC unit. My 200 lbs. walks up there all the time. There is a 14" by 14" framed opening where the roof vent is now.

I would run the wiring across the ceiling through wire moulding and then down through the wardrobe to the rear storage area.

Just curious. Where do set your portable AC unit when in use?

Here is the link to the discussion about the roof load. I agree, the roof seems very strong the numerous times I have been up there washing mine.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ch-190272.html

On my portable, I set it between the seats just behind the cab.

Retired JSO · 08-08-2019, 09:45 AM

I know what you mean since we live in Florida. I’ve added a 2nd unit on two different 30 amp trailers. Having a vent available and a cabinet or closet close to that vent is beneficial in a more professional looking outcome to conceal the wire. On the first one in the 5er bedroom, I was able to install a 5 circuit GE fuse panel in the closet and ran a second 110 outlet also. Fish taped #10 3 conductor from the a/c to a hole drilled into the closet ceiling, down into the GE box then down through the floor into a lower bay where I decided where to exit the trailer then installed a flush mount male plug. Plug into the 20 amp pedestal and cool down. The second unit didn’t have a lower storage bay so I drilled a hole through the floor and attached a male end to hang. I always used #10, 25’ extension cords for the pedestal. By the way, our new 5th wheel has 3 airs and boy what a difference.

PoppySteve · 08-08-2019, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DCfuture82

Hey! Its David. I am the electrical engineer at Forest River plant 34 - where we manufacture the class C motorhomes. I just did a dual A/C unit with high efficiency A/C units - and a shed system. It rocks, and gets crazy cold!
For more info email me at dcardimen@forestriverinc.com

So would a retrofit be available for us with older units? Just had to ask

raoulwv · 08-08-2019, 09:30 PM

I'm starting to rethink this situation. Installing a 2nd roof AC would be the most efficient way to go, but it would also cost more and involve more work. I really only need more cooling power in the afternoon. Mornings and evenings aren't a problem, so a portable unit may work and I could use it elsewhere (garage) when I'm not using the RV. I see a couple problems with a portable too. It will require interior space in the RV I really don't have, plus lugging a 60 to 70 pound unit back and forth would get old quick. Not sure what I'll do at this point, but have to keep the DW from squawking about the heat! I'll keep you posted.

valleyduo · 08-08-2019, 09:43 PM

Add as much insulation as possible. It's amazing how poorly insulated these things can be. The addition of some reflectix and spray foam can make a world of difference without adding much weight.

raoulwv · 08-08-2019, 09:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GL1800Rider

On my portable, I set it between the seats just behind the cab.

Where do store it when moving?

Yowman · 08-09-2019, 07:23 AM

I added a second ac unit to our 2008 Sandpiper, which has 30 amp service. Before I did that, I had my local RV technician check out the roof structure. Once I got his OK, I was able to run 12 ga romex through the ceiling to the closet and down to underneath the camper. Most campgrounds that I’ve camped in have a separate 20 amp service on the pedestal. So, I take a 12 ga drop cord with me, and hook her up. Works great! My only advice to you would be to shop for as quite an AC unit as possible. Good luck!

GL1800Rider · 08-09-2019, 07:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by raoulwv

Where do store it when moving?

I store it in the trunk of the car. Has to sit a couple of hours upright before starting. I roll it to the steps every couple of days to drain it into a pan. Air blows upward so it gets to where the hot air is. The unit is heavy but so far not an issue carrying it to the car.

You may also like: