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Old 05-15-2022, 12:52 AM   #1
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Auto levelling jacks for Sunseeker 2350LE?

Hi, forum newbie here (obviously). Also RV newbie. Never owned one before, but we just ordered a 2350LE. We were torn on the auto levelling jacks option. The dealer actually advised against it. He said for a larger RV it made more sense, but for something this small it wasn't needed.

Thoughts? If we don't have that feature, do we have other good options for levelling at camp? I don't mind 5 minutes of work. I assumed some sort of manual jack would be an option, but the dealer sounded confused and said I wouldn't even really do that, I'd just park the vehicle on the flattest ground I could find and take whatever I get. I said "couldn't I at least drive up on some plastic wedges or something?" To which he responded "well yeah you could do that." Not trying to paint this guy as clueless, it's possible something was lost in communication. But I'm curious what the hive mind advises. I'm sure I could amend the order tomorrow if I decide we really want that option.

Thanks!
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Old 05-15-2022, 06:12 AM   #2
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Leveling a travel trailer is a simple process. Leveling a motor home is not. Definitely ignore the sales rep who appears to have a college degree with a major in stupidity.

A lot of us don’t use auto leveling but prefer manual leveling. Chances of finding a perfectly level campsite are slim…very slim. Even if you find one you need to stabilize the MH or you are going to be pretty uncomfortable because of all the bouncing without some sort of way to shore up the rig. With built in levelers it takes about 30 seconds to extend the jacks about one inch or less…enough to eliminate the bounce.
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Old 05-15-2022, 07:57 AM   #3
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We had a Georgetown for 10 years, equipped with hydraulic jacks.
They did their job almost perfectly……blew some hydraulic lines in year 3, and upgraded all of them to better grade lines. No problems until we sold.

Our new to us Sunseeker has no jacks or stabilizers at all.
We’re camping in more rustic campgrounds than ever…..our choice now along with downsizing.

Almost without fail, I’ve been able to position our rig to being level without using leveling blocks. For those times I needed them, I’ve used these blocks (see link) and they’ve worked perfectly. No moving parts, so almost impossible to malfunction. Easy on/easy off.

Salespeople can be scary when asking for sage advice.

https://www.camco.net/leveling-block...ilingual-44505
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Old 05-15-2022, 12:16 PM   #4
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Thanks for the feedback!

Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
Almost without fail, I’ve been able to position our rig to being level without using leveling blocks.
By "position"... you are simply referring to the orientation in which you park the vehicle, correct? I.e. to be explicit you don't do anything with your hands or any other device under the vehicle's frame?

What about the commenter above who claims you need stabilization or you'll feel the suspension?
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Old 05-15-2022, 01:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kenandterry View Post
We had a Georgetown for 10 years, equipped with hydraulic jacks.
They did their job almost perfectly……blew some hydraulic lines in year 3, and upgraded all of them to better grade lines. No problems until we sold.

Our new to us Sunseeker has no jacks or stabilizers at all.
We’re camping in more rustic campgrounds than ever…..our choice now along with downsizing.

Almost without fail, I’ve been able to position our rig to being level without using leveling blocks. For those times I needed them, I’ve used these blocks (see link) and they’ve worked perfectly. No moving parts, so almost impossible to malfunction. Easy on/easy off.

Salespeople can be scary when asking for sage advice.

https://www.camco.net/leveling-block...ilingual-44505
You’re lucky. I’ve never found a campsite that was perfectly level. Even if it was then as soon as my slide goes out the left side of the MH will drop ¼ inch…enough to cause the bathroom door to swing open.
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Old 05-15-2022, 02:46 PM   #6
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I have a 3010DS. I use the leveling blocks, they work fine. I check level of fridge (gas/electric) using a bullseye level in the freezer section. I the check floor with long level. After a while, you can tell how many blocks to use and where to use them, just by looking at the level.
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Old 05-15-2022, 03:30 PM   #7
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I have a 3010DS. I use the leveling blocks, they work fine. I check level of fridge (gas/electric) using a bullseye level in the freezer section. I the check floor with long level. After a while, you can tell how many blocks to use and where to use them, just by looking at the level.
To be clear, are you talking about blocks under the tires only? Thanks for the reply!
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Old 05-15-2022, 03:49 PM   #8
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Rarely find a truly level site, even at top of the line RV resorts with concrete pads. Most of the time the hydraulic leveling jacks will level the RV. I have the little stick on bubble level indicators at the drivers seat. I can check how close to level I am as I get on a site. If the bubbles are close I know the jacks will do the job. If not, then I have to use a combination of Lego pads and the hydraulics. This past weekend I had to drive up onto two pads both front and back on one side. Then I was able to use the manual function on the hydraulic jacks to get the rig level and thus stable.

In the past I have sat next to the hydraulic level controller and using the level bubble app on my cell phone as it sits on the RV floor I manually level the rig.

I never want a wheel off the ground.
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Old 05-15-2022, 03:51 PM   #9
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As a direct answer, YES you want leveling jacks. As we age it’s no longer easy to crawl around under the rig. Also think about arriving on a dark and rainy night.
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Old 05-15-2022, 04:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The111 View Post
To be clear, are you talking about blocks under the tires only? Thanks for the reply!
Yes.
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Old 05-15-2022, 04:46 PM   #11
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Enlightenment

As you can see, everybody has their own reasons and preferences (peccadilloes).
No hydraulics is cheaper and easier to maintain. It is also more difficult and requires some better planning along with physical effort.

Soooo, if you want Glamping or the rocking motion bothers you then you will want levelers. You might be able to overcome the motion issue with stabilizers that can be economically added.

In reality, the auto function on the levelers stink. They raise the unit too high and lift wheels off the ground. Both undesirable traits. Most folks use the manual function to operate the jacks.

Because of the nature of the class C builds, the front needs the most attention. I end up using tri-step ramps with lumber or legos under the jack pads to keep the front wheels from hanging in the air. So even with levelers, I’m still crawling in the dirt.
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Old 05-15-2022, 04:58 PM   #12
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They raise the unit too high and lift wheels off the ground. Both undesirable traits.
Why is that? I'd think that 4 rock solid points of contact would be a good thing. I'm guessing maybe:

1) Too much sustained load on hydraulics?
2) Cab/engine gets suspended and cantilevered off rear frame, which might not be good?

Admittedly I don't even have a great mental image of *where* the 4 points of contact would be.
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Old 05-15-2022, 06:17 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by The111 View Post
Why is that? I'd think that 4 rock solid points of contact would be a good thing. I'm guessing maybe:

1) Too much sustained load on hydraulics?
2) Cab/engine gets suspended and cantilevered off rear frame, which might not be good?

Admittedly I don't even have a great mental image of *where* the 4 points of contact would be.
No load or cantilever issue. It is about side load, hydraulic seals and jack mounts. They are strong for vertical use. Start rocking back and forth, the same motion that causes suspension movement, with full or near full extension and you are exposed to eventual jack failure. Without excessive extension the tires act as limiters for that movement.
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Old 05-15-2022, 07:35 PM   #14
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No load or cantilever issue. It is about side load, hydraulic seals and jack mounts. They are strong for vertical use. Start rocking back and forth, the same motion that causes suspension movement, with full or near full extension and you are exposed to eventual jack failure. Without excessive extension the tires act as limiters for that movement.
That makes total sense. But, if the ground is unlevel enough, it seems like there will be no alternative to having at least one tire floating.

Another complete newbie question: is there a middle ground between "you're stuck with whatever the tires give you" and "auto power jacks"? I've tent camped at an RV campground before, and watched a lot of guys going around the corners of their rig with what looked like simple scissor jacks (like what comes with a spare tire on a car) and power drills. I'm guessing maybe those take sustained multidirectional load better than hydraulics, if it is necessary for a wheel to float?
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Old 05-15-2022, 08:11 PM   #15
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That makes total sense. But, if the ground is unlevel enough, it seems like there will be no alternative to having at least one tire floating.

Another complete newbie question: is there a middle ground between "you're stuck with whatever the tires give you" and "auto power jacks"? I've tent camped at an RV campground before, and watched a lot of guys going around the corners of their rig with what looked like simple scissor jacks (like what comes with a spare tire on a car) and power drills. I'm guessing maybe those take sustained multidirectional load better than hydraulics, if it is necessary for a wheel to float?
Part one: Already discussed that in an earlier post (#11). There is an easy alternative to tires in the air. BTW Fronts in the air not recommended. Rears in the air gets you a red safety alert.

Part Two: Just discussed in another thread: https://www.forestriverforums.com/fo...ml#post2735213
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Old 05-16-2022, 08:15 AM   #16
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We just installed a leveling system, i got tired of crawling on the ground. We mostly stay at state parks and they no longer smooth out ruts.
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Old 05-16-2022, 12:30 PM   #17
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I'm on my second class C since 2015, the first a chev chassis the second a transit. Class Cs are lower in the front so I carry to sets of 10 in each, blocks. Raise front untill level ans if off a little side to side just add or eliminate a block. No crawling on your knees easy they interlock and alot cheapper and no maintainance and I'm 82.
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Old 05-16-2022, 12:36 PM   #18
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The scissor jacks you are talking about are for trailers. A class C has the frame rail too far inside to use a jack and are much heavier than a trailer. I don't and never had a hydraulic leveling system but they would be nice but can have clearance issues. Most of us use a combination of lego blocks, plastic ramps and even wooden blocks. How fussy you about being level compared to setting out the block by the wheels, rolling ahead, sliding the blocks under the wheels then having your partner guide you back on.
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Old 05-16-2022, 02:28 PM   #19
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yes get Bigfoot levelers from Quantrum Manufacturing best addition to our 25ft prism.
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Old 05-16-2022, 03:00 PM   #20
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After a year of blocking, I added Bigfoot levelers. My chassis already had the mounts welded on which made that aspect easier.

For camping, it takes less than a minute to get level/solid. It allows me to set the low corner as we like, for ac drain and to keep the head of net from being lower. We did not order and would not use auto level.

Other benefits. Supports the entire rig for tire changes. Tip side to side a bit when draining tanks at home (driveway is not level wide to side).

We still bring a bit of wood just in case a flat repair needs more lift. Flat pieces of ply to protect asphalt sites.

The one issue for a class c is the narrow frame where you mount at rear. There is a cross brace to help.

I would not want to go back to manual leveling.
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