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Old 07-27-2013, 03:19 PM   #1
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Back clearance

I have two questions on our 3010DS


1. Seems like the back clearance in this unit is very low. We use the hitch mainly for our bike rack and this ends up scraping the ground at every gas station. Has anybody had this problem and, better yet, a solution

2. Has anybody had issues with the latches on the drawers. We have had 3 of them lock in the closed position which then prevents them from closing.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:29 PM   #2
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We went this route with the bike rack. Bolt on bumper mount receiver just for that. Since the tow bar needed a 2" rise insert, and I've never found a double receiver with 2 rises, I went this route. Works fine. On previous mh, was able to do it with the receiver hitch and a double insert, 2" drop / 4" rise.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:40 PM   #3
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Better picture of the bolt on. Plenty strong enough for a few bikes.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:43 PM   #4
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That's the exact kind of bolt-onto bumper hitch and bike rack that let my buddy's bikes drag down the highway on his travel trailer. His bumper bent and twisted and broke something.
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Old 07-27-2013, 03:49 PM   #5
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The very reason I've fabricated my own bumpers and mounts on the last several trailers. Believe me, I surveyed this bumper and welds before doing it. On the lippert trailer frames, the bumper mounts are barely stitch welded, so I've always cut those off and built my own. To each his own, but guarantee you won't see nothing I built dragging down the road.
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Old 07-27-2013, 04:04 PM   #6
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Cj, if by chance you do go the bolt on route, I would suggest purchasing grade 8 bolts. I believe it comes with grade 5. I'm guessing you don't pull a toad? If not, I'd probably just do a 4" rise receiver insert.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:09 PM   #7
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I really like the double hitch idea, I am currently not towing so the higher angle coming off the hitch would work. Where can i get this contraption?
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:11 PM   #8
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www.etrailer.com They have skads of options. Got just about everything toad and trailer wise from them. Fair prices and good service.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:27 PM   #9
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I had two drawer latches lock in the closed position on our 2013 Sunseeker 2300. They can be pried open with a screwdriver and a lot of effort, but will eventually break. Our dealer replaced both latches under warranty. I have decided to carry some backup latches when we travel because a drawer that won't close is extremely annoying.
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Old 07-27-2013, 08:33 PM   #10
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Thanks on the latches, was thinking on trying to find different ones and just change the all.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:05 AM   #11
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My 3050S is having trouble with the drawer latches as well . The warranty just fixed mine, I love the idea of ordering a few extra ones, wish I would have thought of that when I was at the dealer this week.
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Old 07-28-2013, 12:32 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigJohnD View Post
The very reason I've fabricated my own bumpers and mounts on the last several trailers. Believe me, I surveyed this bumper and welds before doing it. On the lippert trailer frames, the bumper mounts are barely stitch welded, so I've always cut those off and built my own. To each his own, but guarantee you won't see nothing I built dragging down the road.
Sounds good. I made sure to include that it was his TT in case motorbikes were different. Sounds like you have a good handle on things.
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Old 07-28-2013, 07:13 AM   #13
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For the rear height, dragging try putting more air in air bags if you have them.
We have 2500TS, same problem with drawers, need to get them replaced too, only couple months old.
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:35 AM   #14
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What pressure for the air bags?
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Old 07-28-2013, 08:48 AM   #15
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I normally run about 60 lbs in mine. In mine, which I suspect are same in most Sunseekers, you can go to 100 lbs, according to manual. Putting more air in bags, up to 100 lbs will raise rear and help with dragging. good luck...
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Old 07-28-2013, 10:14 AM   #16
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We run 60 as well, on average anyway. Too much more and it seems to sacrifice the ride quality. If you have some fairly level ground to play on, deflate both bags to 5 psi, measure the back bumper (we measured both sides), bring the bags up to 60 or so, measure again, and higher pressure if you choose. At least you can see what additional clearance you're getting and find a happy medium, ride height vs ride quality. At some point though, you just realize the thing sits low to the ground. In extreme cases, I've seen some with a 3" suspension lift on the e-450, but if you have big foot levelers with the already short stroke, you'd have to make up the difference with pads. And then of course there's the distance from entry steps to ground. Just throwing options out there.
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Old 07-28-2013, 03:58 PM   #17
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When adding air to air bags be careful. A very little air adds a lot of psi. Use short bursts and check often until you get feel for it. We run 60 psi also.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:05 PM   #18
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First time, not thinking, I got lucky I didn't pop the bags. Used the bigger shop compressor regulated to 150. whoops. One shot of air snd i swear the MH jumped. Now I just use the smaller compressor which stays regulated around 80 psi just to be on the safe side. Usually have better success bringing them up to 80, then bumping the bleeder valve on the gauge till its where we want it.
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Full Timing Again, Rev B
2013 Ford F-350 Lariat CC LB PSD
2015 SOB TT - With OC's Awning Poles (#8)
At least in Heaven, RVs will be perfect, and I won't have to keep fixing them.
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Old 07-28-2013, 04:23 PM   #19
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Thanks ejkkj, will check pressure and adjust
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:17 AM   #20
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I have had 2 latches stick on my Sunseeker. I have a scheduled appt for them to come fix those, and a few other things. As far as scraping the rear end, I have found that you have to be really careful of where your pull in for fuel. After awhile, and a few scrapes, you will know where you can and can't go.
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