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Old 10-24-2016, 10:07 AM   #261
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You can't see it from the photo, but once the bolt hits the top of the nut, it is is almost impossible to keep tightening. Also, the bolt is significantly misaligned. The same bolt on the passenger side has no issues and I can put both bolts through there with no difficulty at all. Maybe some of the loctite blue is stuck in there and I just can't get it out, but it's hard to tell.
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Old 10-24-2016, 01:46 PM   #262
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You can't see it from the photo, but once the bolt hits the top of the nut, it is is almost impossible to keep tightening. Also, the bolt is significantly misaligned. The same bolt on the passenger side has no issues and I can put both bolts through there with no difficulty at all. Maybe some of the loctite blue is stuck in there and I just can't get it out, but it's hard to tell.
Yes, I can see it's not rising above the nut. Are you using a ratchet or impact gun? I could hardly move that bolt with a 1/2 breaker bar, but the alignment shop had no trouble stripping the back bolt and tightening the front.
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Old 10-24-2016, 05:45 PM   #263
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Yes, I can see it's not rising above the nut. Are you using a ratchet or impact gun? I could hardly move that bolt with a 1/2 breaker bar, but the alignment shop had no trouble stripping the back bolt and tightening the front.
Ratchet with breaker bar and pipe. Just feels like one more turn will break the bolt.
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:04 PM   #264
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Ratchet with breaker bar and pipe. Just feels like one more turn will break the bolt.

I agree, it shouldn't be that hard. How about trying to chase it with a tap and die set to clean up the threads. Also, does anyone know of a chemical that could be used to dissolve the Loctite that is in the threads now?
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Old 10-25-2016, 07:58 AM   #265
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I agree, it shouldn't be that hard. How about trying to chase it with a tap and die set to clean up the threads. Also, does anyone know of a chemical that could be used to dissolve the Loctite that is in the threads now?
I'm going to heat up both bolts and clean with a wire brush to eliminate as much of the loctite as possible on the bolts. I already tried using goof off on a toothbrush to clean out the threads on the frame but that will do nothing for a stripped thread. I also bought a grade 8 bolt that I will try and work through the threads to possibly loosen it up. If none of that works then I will drill out the threads and just use a longer bolt and nut inside the frame to hold the bracket.
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Old 10-25-2016, 08:15 AM   #266
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NewRv, I think you will find the weldnut made of very hard metal. I screwed up one of my bolts trying to clean it up and had to go get a tap to run through it. (This was on the back and I cross threaded it trying to run a bolt through the stack up of sway/trac bracketry.)
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Old 10-25-2016, 11:17 AM   #267
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I would try an old mechanic's trick. Grind the end of the bolt down to a slight taper. Only about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, spinning the bolt against the grind wheel, just enough so the threads at the end of the bolt almost disappear. Then use a hacksaw to notch the tapered threads - again, just the taper. (Saw parallel to the bolt, a shallow notch).
The shallow threads in the taper will usually catch the nut threads and the sawed notch will clean out any residual loctite or bent thread metal from the nuts threads. Once screwed past the taper, the bolt will be secure.
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:30 PM   #268
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With the nice weather this weekend I was finally able to get the front sway installation completed. I took the easy way out and bought a 9/16 drill bit, drilled out the threads in the frame and installed a new bolt and nut and it took all of 20 minutes. Unfortunately I did not have time to take it for a drive on the highway today as my priority was to get the tank filled up at the local WaWa. As of Tuesday the gas tax goes up .23 in NJ and for 40-50 gallons getting if filled today was going to save me some $$$$
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Old 10-30-2016, 06:34 PM   #269
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With the nice weather this weekend I was finally able to get the front sway installation completed. I took the easy way out and bought a 9/16 drill bit, drilled out the threads in the frame and installed a new bolt and nut and it took all of 20 minutes. Unfortunately I did not have time to take it for a drive on the highway today as my priority was to get the tank filled up at the local WaWa. As of Tuesday the gas tax goes up .23 in NJ and for 40-50 gallons getting if filled today was going to save me some $$$$
Not sure why the pics did not attach.....
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Old 10-31-2016, 12:28 AM   #270
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Not sure why the pics did not attach.....
Looks Good! I was lucky, only my rear bolt was stripped. Since you've already done the rear, I'm curious to hear what difference you feel. I've only done the front so far and not sure if I really need the rear.

I may reinstall my Roadmaster Reflex stabilizer at some point and as I've posted earlier here, the bottom bolt was stripped. Alignment shop added a nut on the bolt which is easily accessible with the bumper off.
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:27 AM   #271
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Looks Good! I was lucky, only my rear bolt was stripped. Since you've already done the rear, I'm curious to hear what difference you feel. I've only done the front so far and not sure if I really need the rear.

I may reinstall my Roadmaster Reflex stabilizer at some point and as I've posted earlier here, the bottom bolt was stripped. Alignment shop added a nut on the bolt which is easily accessible with the bumper off.
My thought process was that since my 3011 is the longest and one of the heaviest Class C models in the lineup, the general suspension components where not probably going to be up to the task of maintaining a good driving experience and this was born out through my earliest trips. If you have a smaller class C that was not as heavy, then the OEM parts might work just fine.

Additionally, since one of the bigger issues was caused by sway from passing trucks from behind on divided highways at 60+, and that starts at the rear first, that caused me to initially focus my efforts on the rear of the vehicle. And once you decide to install a new rear sway, then doing the the trac bar at the same time makes sense as they both use the same connection points, depending on what model you get.

From an earlier post I already indicated that just having the rear done was a significant improvement, then that might make you think why do the front?
Here are my reasons,

1) the front bar is undersized for this vehicle in my use case
2) if you actually drive on a lot of two lane roads where tractor trailers are passing you head on at 50+ then the sway action will start in the front and not the rear.
3) the law of physics dictates that every action will have a equal and opposite reaction, so any sway that starts in the rear will then be transferred to the front and visa versa.
4) the cost and effort to replace the front was very reasonable so why not just do it to handle all scenario's as best as possible.

I may have missed some other good reasons, but those are the few that I could think of. Finally, the jury is still out on if I will actually need to replace the front stabilizer. A new front sway bar and/or stabilizer will both help with sway reduction, but the sway bar has no parts to wear out, will probably have the larger impact and should also be just an "install and forget it" thing so I went that way first. I still may do something with the stabilizer just to help reduce any handling concerns with blowouts and/or road conditions which may affect steering, but I will wait to get some miles on the current setup before making that decision.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:59 PM   #272
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NewRver, makes sense. The only reason I did the front first was the alignment shop said to start there. I haven't really been out on the highway where a lot of trucks pass me. But next week we will be going up to the sierra's and will be a good test. May buy the rear sway bar and mount it before the trip.
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Old 11-01-2016, 06:46 AM   #273
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Sage,

If I did not live in the great state of trucks (NJ), it's possible I might have done if differently myself. Just goes to show that no one method or option is best for everyone. The only constant seems to be that you WILL need to improve or fix something on a new RV.
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Old 11-01-2016, 10:02 PM   #274
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Nice job. Thank you for the how too.


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Old 11-22-2016, 03:05 PM   #275
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BTW, what does everyone do with the old facrtory sway bars if they have been replaced?
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:52 PM   #276
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Scrap
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Old 11-22-2016, 07:01 PM   #277
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Scrap
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Old 11-23-2016, 10:55 AM   #278
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Thanks. I will hang onto them until next spring/summer then recycle them.
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Old 01-27-2017, 12:36 PM   #279
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e450 chassis upgrades

Nice work NewRVer ! I bought all same
Hardware for my 3170 going to put it all
In this April . Just wondering if you upgraded the shocks as well ?
I called talked to bilstein
They told me jayco uses the comfert shocks in there greyhawk class c e450
They also said the compression damping
On the heavy duty was to harsh on the initial
Hit of a road expansions or pot holes bumps and wash board dirt roads .
In turn would send harsh jaring into the coach .
I picked up a set of 4 at Eshocks .
Best price I could find .
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Old 03-24-2017, 07:46 PM   #280
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ok so today I had the Bilstein steering stabilizer installed, as well as shocks

2016, 2860 Sunseeker, E450

When i got home i did my get under there and inspect routine and the stabilizer is REAL close to the steering arm, when in the centered position.

I have not turned the wheel to observe but it looks really close like it may rub the steering arm.

Is this a correct install ? I have looked and it does not appear the stabilizer or steering arm can be rotated .

Thoughts ?
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